jcarter1885

Yeah they will and no they wont. If it is for more output when daily driving then I wouldnt do it, I hate having to be overly cautious with my system if I dont have to thats why I keep the power levels respectable. But if your worried about output when your competing then go for it in my eyes. Hope that helps.

Are there any 2 channel amps that will be sold as well or are all 4 channel amps? Thanks

Yeah there is a big difference in sound between burnt cds and store bought original cds (thats why I keep a couple of store bought ones in the car). Im usually a cd and flash drive kinda guy, I use my mp3 only for working out or leisure activities. Clarion CZ100 at the moment

It is true if the car is dedicated to be a strictly SPL setup, as most are tuned rather high to be around the car's peak frequency repsonse. The higher the tuning the louder the db's the car should produce and be more of a burp car than a musical car. Some people do have SPL vehicles that can do well on music but they are not tuned that high, they usually have more cone area and power to help achieve those same high db numbers but usually these are more musical. Honestly it depends on the goals and if you have a car built truly for SPL or you just want an Ultimate Ground Pounder. Hope that helps P.S. SQ systems are designed strictly for music usually, to have the best reproduction of the recorded material as if you were at a concert or in the recording studio itself. These cars are never worried about how loud they get but rather how good they sound, output in terms of db's is not a concern as it is in SPL. SQ can be subjective because what sounds good to some doesnt to others and so-on.

Yeah. But Motor Force is another factor Along with others.... x2, usually if the subs are in the same line-up then yes it will move more air and be louder. Such as if you were comparing a 15" Fi Q to 2-12" Fi Q's then yes more cone area wins.

Doing anything different with the new components or using what you made for the Alpines? Good luck man

Just set your gains correctly and dont turn your head unit volume past 75% and you will be fine, music is dynamic so your amp wont be putting out 1200 watts all the time. If it doesnt sound right or sub smells stinky then turn volume down or gain down or sub sonic filter up depending on the reason.

Yeah leave the bass boost at 0/all the way off, the phase wont hurt your subwoofer at all so you can mess with it to see where it blends in with your front stage. If not then you can leave it at 0 as few people do not mess with it either.

Getting big business again, keep up the good work man.

Type a perfect sentence and use grammar please so it is easy to understand what your saying, this is not a text message. Depending on how much of a curve you did will depend on if the wood can be used or not, you may still be able to use it just put extra glue and silicone in that area. But it really depends where the curve is, how bad the curve is and if you can still attach the box together without loosing support in that area. When you get a picture of the baffle that you cut, then post it so we can help you better.

I will definitely give you a mini-review J-Road as soon as the Selenium's get here. I will keep this build log going with the updates till I get the Lincoln up and running ready for install. On Friday I will be ordering a 15" D2 2010 SSA Icon with the Copper Coil, its time to give a SSA subwoofer a try. Once I get the SSA Icon installed I will be selling the Sundown Z-v.1 15"(dual 4 ohm) so anybody interested keep your eyes open for a for sale thread or pm me if interested.

Ordering a 15" D2 Copper Coil on Friday, cant wait.

Nice looking subwoofer, anyother information on it besides rms rating? Is it a line you guys are running or just a dustcap you put on? Keep up the work.

I dig the seat covers bro

Im jealous bro, looks sick and loud. Hopefully one day I can hear this bish, I spy a Crunch Ground Pounder 3000

Time to change sig man, that car is fresh.

Get a DMM and measure the coils, are you sure its the sub and not the amp/wiring/fuses?

Besides just getting it fixed you need to see what caused the sub to fail in the first place before it happens all over again after getting a recone.

Getting a 1982 Lincoln Towncar to start my new build in so say good bye to this build log. More room for more options I cant wait to go measure the trunk and take pictures of the car for you guys as well, its has candy paint on it already. Im buying it from my brother's wife, im too excited. Im thinking 2-15''s right about now, cant wait. The only update I do have to my current equipment is the Boss Audio REV-665 amp that is on its way and I just bought some Selenium ST200 Super Tweeters which are gonna replace the Crescendo XST2 Super Tweeters.

No problem at all as long as there shipped Im cool

I personally would not use either but that is up to you, mostly a personal preference if you ask me. If you dont see the need for it then I would get rid of the one in the way of your rca's on the way to the amp and use the one on the amp if you want to use at least one of them. If there bass boost knobs then i wouldnt use either but that is just me, I would only use them or one of them if they remote gain knobs only.

Have you even looked at the specs on the SAX-200.4? Physical size? Price? What makes you think I have not? Where are you going with this and are you trying to be helpfull or not? Yeah actually he was trying to be helpful so dont be a douche, just answers his questions and you could see if he was being helpful or not. Some people in the past who bought the 100.4D never paid attention to its size and thought it was smaller than what it was so he was just confirming with you. Your getting mad at him but if you look at the question you asked then you will know why. If your just gonna use component sets then stick with the 100.4D, the 200.4D is for big systems or pa systems. If it does fall within your price range, power and size range then grab it but just make sure you do the research and see if you need it first or just buying it to be cool. Im lost on how the 200.4D does 200 watts bridged if it does 200 watts per channel at four ohms, this is the same reason above why he asked you those questions since it seems as though your lost your self. Dont get upset or your panties in a bunch just an answer to your question, hope this helps