jcarter1885

Whats the name of that song playing, Thankx.

x2, thats what I said. So you will know what your amp is doing on your electrical with your setup and not no one else's, this will be the true test of what your amp is putting out in the real world (since every install is different and Jacobs test is not how your install will be ran so the numbers wont really be beneficial until you see how it does on your setup). Just my .02

Glad you could join us .

x2, was thinking the same thing but I know its more to this than what he is showing. Stop with the suspense .

Here was my idea... If this image post works.... I hate Imagebam, I really need to get my own webspace again... Top - Photo of a SAZ-2000 to compare 1 - SAZ-2000 with End Caps 2 - SAZ-2000s with Spacer and two Endcaps (click on pic for a larger image) Free Image Hosting by ImageBam.com Still not feeling the end caps, but wouldnt mind having a connector piece for my 2 SAX-125.2's

I know if you do bulk load it wont go to the gallery page, it will show an error page. Just close that page and open your browser again and go to ssa.com and to the forum section like normally and check your gallery the pictures will be there. But I usually just upload mine straight from the computer and they work that way from my knowledge.

Glad to know everything was ok and that is some good troubleshooting information to know also about engine noise coming from a bad alternator (in case all others methods were tried).

They can be wired either way, 1.34 and 3 ohms: Subwoofer Diagram

Glad you could join us.

Your cool just wanted to mess with you, its not that big of a deal. I did like the connection of the two amps in the middle piece idea, usually I just get a board and attach both of the amps on it and make my wires neat as possible and cover with wire cover for that pro look (but a cover over the middle would be nice).

Weather affects voltage, the colder it is the higher your vehicle voltage will be until engine parts start running and warming up the vehicle (thats why batteries have higher CCA-Cold Cranking Amps than CA-Cranking Amps). While the termperature may effect the voltage, CCAs are ALWAYS lower than CAs. Only Short Circuit or Burst ratings are higher than CA. The colder the temperature, the less a battery can disperse at one time. Your right, had it reversed (edited and fixed), I actually went and looked at my battery before posting and still switched it up on the way back to the computer.

Stop getting so emotional and colorful, nobody spoke on Jacobs word (read the rules it says dont be upset on answers to a topic you create, people will have opinions and I find it hilarious all three of mine were examined and taking out of context and colored with Christmas Colors). Sorry for chimming in an hitting your sensitive button (I take all my commens back, jay-cee didnt say anything).

Glad you could join us.

Why not buy another sub and amp, then build the right box for both of them and you will have what you want or buil a good box for the one you have and you will be impressed since you dont want them in the hatch, fire them up also. Just my .02.

x2

yea i know that, i have 3 4"s now in my current box. but wont be able to fit 2 6"s in the box. unless you can show me a way to do 2 6"s in a 25" w x 16" h x 22" d box tuned to 34 along with a 15" sub, i dont think theyll fit. Can you make the box a little bigger? yea but not with that design. im tryin to regain some of my trunk space. i have the nightshade in a 4.7 cube box @ 32 now and want retain the same sound in a smaller box. The 15" Nightshade doesnt need to be in a box that big, what made you make the enclosure to 4.7ft^3?

I have a Sundown SAX-125.2 for some mid-range speakers and will be grabbing a Sundown SAX-50.4 for some mid-bass speakers and tweeters. I think they put out good power and the sound quality is great. Im still tuning till this day just to see where the speakers sweet spot is or what my preference is for that day. Ive havent dealt with an arc ks series amp but I have seen one in an install and listen to it did the job and some also. Its a coin toss at the end of the day, which ever one is in your budget, has the crossover setting you need/prefer, the one that fits the power levels you need, the one that is what you feel will fit your install and go with your plans. Just my .02 There is nothing to take to pm's, OP (its a simple choice really just pick an amp, they are both great companies and either one will work for you).

Glad you could join us but I let someone else chime on since there are silverado drivers out there.

I am not planning on putting them in the hatch area. I want to pull out the back seat's and do something similar to this setup someone on a focus forum has. I will include the picture again below So basically you want the box to go from back of the back seats to right where the hatch cargo begins, well measure that are and give us the max dimensions to see what you can fit if Im reading this correctly.

I would say you made your box correctly, there was one main flaw when you bradded the nails in there you had nobody holding it down or applying pressure but yourself as you sent nails through. I did the same process with my box but it was me (my little ass) and two of my friends (6'5 and 6'6 dudes) holding it down while we did it and had great success. I bought extra glue so I could use my glue as my sealent also, not saying sealant isnt good enough just went over and beyond (made sure it as no gaps and nice caulk of glue all around every inside and outside crack). On your next box, use clamps to apply the extra pressure than use the nails if you still want to.

No problem and keep us posted, if you need any help with box desings give someone your max dimensions of area where you want enclosure to go and someone will assist you. height x width x depth

yes it will be wise since that is wha the manual says it will need if you read that. get either a 200 ANL fuse or 250ANL fuse to go 8 inches away from amp. make sure you have the electrical to back up that amp if you want to get some decent power from it.

build your port according to the size of the enslosure, if you want it 5 ft^3 (12 - 16 in^2/per cube of space). So your box is gonna need to be 5ft^3 after port area is taking into account, sub area and bracing are taking into account. That doesnt mean design the box to be 5ft^3 and then start making the port because that will decrease the volume from 5ft^3.

Haha naw just some duct tape. I actually seen a radio that I had to redo, wires were taped together just like that with duct tape (horrible, the duct tape ruins the wire-copper or aluminum whatever is inside the jacket).

so wait, I need 3-5 cubes AFTER PORT AND SUB DISPLACEMENT? yeah you need 3-5ft^3 after displacements (sub, port,bracing or whatever is inside the box that is taking up space and volume).