altoncustomtech

Unless you're buying new subs there's no way change them to a High Qts sub. As Duran mentioned the High Qts versions have less steel in the coil gap and that cannot be machined that way once the motor is assembled and magnetized. IMHO, if you have four subs that you like the way they work why mess with it? There's a good possibility that if the change in the response was actually that noticeable that you may not like it anyway. A peaky response refers to a high peak at a certain frequency, and therefore the sub(s) are loudest at that point than at higher or lower frequencies. Depending on their placement, the size of the space they're playing in, enclosure specifications and much much more, the peak can be useful or it can be harmful to the end result your ears are hearing. That's why I said, if it sounds good to you then don't worry about it.

I second that. The DCON is a great sub that definitely belies its seemingly low power rating. I have a link to the review I wrote for my sister's DCON in my signature.

Yep, I like the speed of the mobile skin as well. I just wish there was the support for IMing is all.

I actually don't mind the mobile skin too much. I can still access the "most recent" topics list which helps me keep up with the forum, but even when viewing the full site on the phone the status bar at the bottom of the screen with the list of online friends, IMing, and all that isn't there.

Alright, call me old fashioned, behind the times, or whatever you like. I recently upgraded to a smartphone, an iPhone 4. It's nice, I love being able to carry my music collection with me wherever I go, check weather on the go and all that other great stuff they're handy for. The one thing I don't appreciate is the limited usability of the forum on the browser. I was busy the entire weekend, but was checking in regularly on my phone. I had several people attempt to IM me, apparently seeing me as online in the status bar at the bottom. However, there's nothing that tells me anything about the IM's on the phone, PM's yes, but not the IM's. At the bottom of the screen on the phone is a button that says "Get the free IP.Board App for iPhone now!" that takes me to the Appstore and shows me the IP.Board app, but it's NOT free they want $1.99 and with the 1.5 star rating and complaints against it I don't think I'm going to buy it anytime soon. I have seen the Tapatalk app talked about, but again there's no sense to me to spend the money on any app if it can't get more of the functionality of the forum than what the browser can. I know there's plenty of you guys who've been using the forum on a mobile device for some time now. Any suggestions?

Glad to hear you're okay!! I can't imagine how much it's gotta hurt, hope they've got good pain meds prescribed for ya. Good thing the guy was concerned, shows there's at least some decent people out there still.

It's not 15 days MAX. Nowhere on the website is it GUARANTEED to be done and shipping out by the 15th day. I ordered the PR's for the Jimmy on Feb. 27th and was given a 4 week lead time on them. I didn't receive them until the 4th of May. Have patience, it's worth the wait, period.

Looks pretty good. Mike did a pretty good job on the enclosure. One suggestion tho, one of THESE would probably be a good investment for that battery. The fashion in which the positive cables are connected worries me a bit, not to mention a better connection could possibly help with performance as well. to the forum!!

Thank you sir. There will be around 1/4" of space between them. I figure that should be plenty, especially since the amp that will be running the hottest is on top.

Well, it's a kind of progress. I've been working for awhile now to figure out how the hell to fit everything in the back of the truck. What I had originally imagined/planned for the amp rack had to be scrapped once I started getting some measurements and things going. Not enough room to do the neat angles and "floating" look I had imagined in the first place. So then I looked into mounting them angled and such with one on each side and about every configuration I could come up with and none were quite right. So finally I tried this last design out, along with a lot of cardboard templates and it looks like this will work out very well. The XS Power XP950 battery will be located inside/under the amp rack and the SAZ-1500D will simply be mounted flat on the rack with the SAX-125.2 mounted above it using threaded aluminum spacers. It's not a jaw dropper like I was trying to go for in the first place, but it will look good enough and function well which is most important. On to the Sketchup drawings. Here's basically what it will look like when I open the back of the truck. Angle more from the front. You can see the angle for the back of the seats. Here you can see the basic location for the XP950 and where the wheel well will be covered and hidden by the rack. The back cover will be removable for access to the battery. The rack will be bolted down to the back of the truck with three 5/16" bolts. I will also be able to access the wingnuts that will hold the amp rack to the bolts for quick removal when needed.

Here's the one I have. It's held up for several years of some severe beating, left in the rain, etc with no issues. CableYard Impact Crimper

I have no personal experience with any of those amps but years of experience has taught me that in almost all cases you get exactly what you pay for. Many times the more expensive lower power rated amp will make more useable power than the less expensive higher power rated amp. Even if it doesn't the more expensive amp will generally handle abuses better and last longer than the cheaper amp. Again, I can't help you with any of those specific units, but I can recommend that buying the one with the best reputation is generally the best way to go.

Well, it's official... work has once again blown my chance at going to Slamology.... I'll be in Franklin KY during the show... Have a good time for me guys!

If you're not looking to spend the money on a hydraulic crimper (and I don't blame you considering the cost for a good reliable one) then you could always get an impact crimper for about $12.

Who built the enclosure? If you don't know the dimensions how can you (or us for that matter) be certain it is actually tuned to 33hz? There have been many people who went to a local shop, asked for an enclosure built to "X" specification and it got built to whatever the shop wanted to do. They figure they can get away with it because so few people actually know how to calculate for or physically check enclosure tuning. To check for certain what the enclosure is tuned to get some test tones that range from 50hz down to say 30hz. Turn the volume up to where the subs move halfway decent and start playing 50hz. Carefully watch the subs' movement as you slowly progress through the tracks toward 30hz. The frequency at which the subs move the LEAST is the frequency the enclosure is tuned to. If it's higher than 33hz by very much that is most likely your issue with deep bass, if it is actually close to 33hz then your issue is in the acoustics.

Can you give more specs on your enclosure? Have you tried moving it around, playing with placement and loading? How loud the deeper bass range can get is far more enclosure and environment dependent than anything else. Those BL's should get plenty loud enough at plenty low enough frequencies to make most people happy. I would imagine that you've got an enclosure issue or an environmental issue with the acoustics affecting that range of frequencies or you're simply expecting more than the BL's are delivering and need to build with a larger format driver.

to the forum!!!

I thought this was pretty cool. Of all the different pictures and manufacturers they had to choose from they picked SSA XCON's for the picture in their ad.

Finding a 5 channel with that kind of power available isn't gonna happen. I did a great deal of research in 5 channels before settling on the same Cadence amp for my sister's truck and never found anything more powerful than the Cadence C8 or the Massive Audio NX5. At their price I would believe the try at bridging the Cadence and getting a second isn't a bad option at all. I would try to look at other brands than Hifonics if possible. After using several of their amps I'm none too impressed with the sound quality, especially from full range amps. In my honest opinion they color the sound with what seems like the bass boost circuit being on with slight boost no matter what position the crossover switch is in and due to that issue seem to reach audible distortion levels sooner than it seems like they should. For example, on the same components and HU I'm using now I used to have a ZXi6006 150wrmsx2 amp, the direct swap to the Sundown 100.4 got the same speakers at the same EQ and crossover settings louder and cleaner than the Hifoincs ever could and with less rated power. Sure, I'm a little biased when it comes to Hifonics, but I have my reasons. A GREAT high power 4 channel would be the ZED Dreadnought, tho it has the same issue for you the Leviathan does with it's pricetag. I would imagine there has to be others out there better suited for you, but I would like to see what your opinions are about the Cadence after bridging it.

That had to be a blast Jared!! Would love to have toys like that to play with!!

Thanks Aaron!! and... Thank You again for the permission to have the PR's built to match the sub!!! It should look pretty damn good when complete!

That's what I was referring to. I'm not sure there are any built here, I'm not even sure there's any speakers, components and such, that are built here in America.

Damn that's a good review, and a great bunch of amps.... When we replace the van with a new vehicle I'm going on a smaller scale for the audio in whatever that vehicle may be and at this point I've been seriously considering either the Leviathan or the Dreadnought for power as I'm sure which ever way I go the result will be superb. I would LOVE to do an all "Made in America" build, I'm just not sure that's humanly possible anymore. Amps and subs, easy, HU, components, etc. I don't think there's many if any options out there.

Not really. They were still making them up until very recently and I believe they've taken them off the website for another redesign. The X series is Fi's low power driver. The recent ones were rated at 400wrms, the older ones were 300wrms. I got a pair of 10's during a Black Fiday sale for some friends and they're great drivers for people who don't need a ton of power.

I'm with ya Mike. I've always preferred direct wiring. Like you mentioned, that way I KNOW what I've got, exactly what's there, and how it's wired and working. Sure it's extra work, sometimes a great deal of extra work, but it's worth it for the peace of mind alone if nothing else. I can see where a business would do it that way to save time and money and that's fine for them, but I would imagine that when most people pay for such an installation they're probably expecting a new wire run straight from amp to speakers and not what they've got when that's done unless they were told up front that's how it was done.