TheSundownFire

I approve. Continue.

Hello friend. Im watching this. Ever thought about flaring the top too kinda like ***** *****'s "Squaro" port in his Honda?

I don't see a problem making your own as long as you make sure it can't short to any grounds...... anyways...... NO you don't have to step down to 8 from 4 just because ur splitting off.... in fact i'd recommend keeping the 4awg throughout.... Now the 150 is good, the fuse is for protecting the wire being used, not what it's powering..... use 150 and if you begin blowing it you'll know you need to up the wire to 1/0....... Ok thanks.

First question, Im thinking about making my own D-Block out of some bolts and nuts and what not, I have a run of 4 gauge from the battery, is it necessary to step down from 4 gauge to 8 gauge leaving the D-Block? The runs after the block are a foot at the most. Second question, what fusing should I use at the D-Block? I know 150 amp is recommended for 4 gauge but idk if theres a difference if its being distributed.

Sub looks familiar . I was actually really surprised when I saw that my Type R was taller. Get this bitch in now!

If baggedcavi is the guy I sent this way then he probably needs 2 or 4.

What is the J-body site if you dont mind me asking? When do you think you will go get metered? J-Bodies are Cavaliers and Sunfires and I probably wont get metered to spring since all the dBDrag around here is shut down til it warms up and I still havent found a shop close enough to test me. I linking my build thread in the Z15 thread.

From what Ive read (which isnt much) on T-Lines is that they are sort of one note wonders and youll need some sort of equalizer to make it sound right.

Im also tuning high because of a little competition Im having on the J-Body site. 145dB or bust. But Im done not adding anything of value. Good luck and Ill be watching.

I wasnt trying to tell you how to tune. Ive always been told 35 35 35. Maybe its just the guys I learned from. I had a 22hz box for about 6 months. Lows are nice but I hated how it would just die and get flat anywhere above 40hz. Its hitting pretty close to where that box was. But its your car.

So basically youre saying that since the air in the rear is pressurized it moves to areas of low pressure ie the doors or windows because that is what the tendency of gases and fluids is?

Im not getting emotional. I dont really feel I gave any wrong info. Ive learned from some very experienced people and have never heard any bad things about passive networks. Besides lack of tunability but since the OP isnt looking for super high SQ then passive seems more suited for him.

I just got my Z15. VERY nice sub. Beefy as hell and gets loud and low.

You should bump the tuning up. The Z15 is wanging pretty low and Im tuned somewhere around 35 or 36 hz. Just advice from a fellow Z15 owner.

Hmmm my Sundown Amp says "Made in Korea." Guess its junk.

Active crossovers arent for people who just got into audio. Its not easy getting things to sound right with the crossovers and for someone getting into audio passive is the way to go in my opinion. How does it feel looking down on everyone from you pedestal?

Im trying to sell a Type-R and Im not even getting any hits through Craigslist. You might be better off trying out eBay. Im about to list it there just because im not going to get any more retarded offers.

I ran a Pyramid amp for months. Hahahahaha. I think you should be fine. Im a little curious if that amp would actually not blow up at 1 ohm or if it does rated power.

Most midbass is designed for large area like your doors. You may end up sounding worse but using an enclosure for them.

All of those subs have weaksauce suspension. Youre tuning low to get low response which kills your high. You tune around 35hz and youre going to lose your low becasue the sub isnt using the box to compensate its suspension. I had this porblem with my Type R. Ran 22hz slammed low. Tons of flex but would hit anything about 45hz and above. Built a new box to 33hz and it did much better on the high bass. I peaked at 42 hz and my response was best between 60hz and 35hz. It really would lose strength low because the sub didnt have the suspension to push the low. Sold the R. Bought a Z15. MUCH stronger motor and suspension. Tuned my box to 35hz and it has response similar to both boxes. So basically pick which bass youd rather have or get a stronger sub.

do you mean the hi power line from hertz? i did not really mean louder but yes maybe a powerful 3 way component system. more clear is what i was looking for. seeing as tweeters have there limitations, i think a vocal mid range driver in a 3 way system would comfort me. along with a nice 2 channel amp as i would not want to amp the tweeters by themselves. No I just meant something with a high RMS rating. I was looking into 3 ways for my car. 3 ways are harder to come by and are usually like $150 to $200 more than 2 ways from what Ive found. But yes the 3 ways will be clearer than 2 ways of the same quality. Your tweeters would still be amped because theyre on the same passive crossover as the mid and woofer. If you want control of the power going to the mid and tweet look into some biampable crossovers and get a 4 channel. So you can runn one channel to the mid and tweet and one channel to the woofer.

Wont be much of an audible difference between 1000 and 1200 watts. The mic would notice but your ears probably wouldnt.

Jacob told me he burped one at something like 8800 watts. Basically what I was told is that youd break it mechanically before you baked the coil. Im running mine off of an SAZ-1000D. Im running 3 cubes after displacement at 35 hz. Im not going to pass my judgement until its broken in. My Build. Page 4 and 5 deal with the sub

A 3 way wont necessarily be louder. I will sound clearer due to less frequencies per driver. If you want loud get some high power 2 ways and a strong 2 channel or 4 channel and call it done.

Just got it installed. Hell of a sub.