Signs, signs, everywhere theres signs....

fuck, just when i thought i had my car fixed up.

i had a misfire on cylinder 3 and the camshaft position sensor a few weeks ago. (there was also a 3rd code, possible random cylinder misfire or a repeat of cyl. 3 misfire)

so i did new plugs and replaced the sensor.

if you remember, that's when i found this little gem

http://i277.phot

last week i replaced the valve gaskets on my own, not bad for a physics nerd haha

still have the misfire after replacing the gaskets so i got the codes read again.

p0300 random cylinder misfire and p0340 camshaft position sensor

ordered new coil boot (spark plug boots), figured i'd start by ruling out coil boots first.

any advice guys?

would purchasing an obd II scanner be any help? i wouldn't mind gambling 50 bucks on something like this obdlink sx- scan tool, if it could save me some money (avoid a mechanic).

car - oldsmobile intrigue

edit: i checked the camshaft sensor connections, everything looked good. ill pick up another sensor in a day or two, depending if they have to order it in

You can test your current sensors with a DMM to see if they are bad before wasting money on new ones. If the sensors test good then its something in the path of the signal.

I had a car that filled the plug holes with oil like that too. LOL

shit didn't think of that. too late i bought the sensor. but i measured all three (replacements and original). but i got some weird shit.. there are 3 pins; signal, power, and low.

the original and first replacement i bought have the same values when measured.

the newest one has different values. (all in the mega ohm range)

i haven't found the correct values yet. maybe i'm not searching for the right information.

i could assume that the original and first replacement are both bad, and the newest is fine. however, i dont have a scan tool to clear the code.

right now im trying to clear it by disconnecting the battery. i have access to a shitty manual from alldatadiy.com, it suggests that disconnecting the battery is not the correct way to clear that code and that it might not actually clear it.

edit: all three cam sensors have the last 4 digits of the oem part number on plastic part.

edit2: reconnected the battery after ~30 min, turned key to "on" position and still had a ses light.

I'm going in for a forearm tat tomorrow!

fuck, just when i thought i had my car fixed up.

i had a misfire on cylinder 3 and the camshaft position sensor a few weeks ago. (there was also a 3rd code, possible random cylinder misfire or a repeat of cyl. 3 misfire)

so i did new plugs and replaced the sensor.

if you remember, that's when i found this little gem

http://i277.phot

last week i replaced the valve gaskets on my own, not bad for a physics nerd haha

still have the misfire after replacing the gaskets so i got the codes read again.

p0300 random cylinder misfire and p0340 camshaft position sensor

ordered new coil boot (spark plug boots), figured i'd start by ruling out coil boots first.

any advice guys?

would purchasing an obd II scanner be any help? i wouldn't mind gambling 50 bucks on something like this obdlink sx- scan tool, if it could save me some money (avoid a mechanic).

car - oldsmobile intrigue

edit: i checked the camshaft sensor connections, everything looked good. ill pick up another sensor in a day or two, depending if they have to order it in

You can test your current sensors with a DMM to see if they are bad before wasting money on new ones. If the sensors test good then its something in the path of the signal.

I had a car that filled the plug holes with oil like that too. LOL

shit didn't think of that. too late i bought the sensor. but i measured all three (replacements and original). but i got some weird shit.. there are 3 pins; signal, power, and low.

the original and first replacement i bought have the same values when measured.

the newest one has different values. (all in the mega ohm range)

i haven't found the correct values yet. maybe i'm not searching for the right information.

i could assume that the original and first replacement are both bad, and the newest is fine. however, i dont have a scan tool to clear the code.

right now im trying to clear it by disconnecting the battery. i have access to a shitty manual from alldatadiy.com, it suggests that disconnecting the battery is not the correct way to clear that code and that it might not actually clear it.

You will most likely have to clear the code with a code reader, disconnecting the battery won't do it.

fuck, just when i thought i had my car fixed up.

i had a misfire on cylinder 3 and the camshaft position sensor a few weeks ago. (there was also a 3rd code, possible random cylinder misfire or a repeat of cyl. 3 misfire)

so i did new plugs and replaced the sensor.

if you remember, that's when i found this little gem

http://i277.phot

last week i replaced the valve gaskets on my own, not bad for a physics nerd haha

still have the misfire after replacing the gaskets so i got the codes read again.

p0300 random cylinder misfire and p0340 camshaft position sensor

ordered new coil boot (spark plug boots), figured i'd start by ruling out coil boots first.

any advice guys?

would purchasing an obd II scanner be any help? i wouldn't mind gambling 50 bucks on something like this obdlink sx- scan tool, if it could save me some money (avoid a mechanic).

car - oldsmobile intrigue

edit: i checked the camshaft sensor connections, everything looked good. ill pick up another sensor in a day or two, depending if they have to order it in

You can test your current sensors with a DMM to see if they are bad before wasting money on new ones. If the sensors test good then its something in the path of the signal.

I had a car that filled the plug holes with oil like that too. LOL

shit didn't think of that. too late i bought the sensor. but i measured all three (replacements and original). but i got some weird shit.. there are 3 pins; signal, power, and low.

the original and first replacement i bought have the same values when measured.

the newest one has different values. (all in the mega ohm range)

i haven't found the correct values yet. maybe i'm not searching for the right information.

i could assume that the original and first replacement are both bad, and the newest is fine. however, i dont have a scan tool to clear the code.

right now im trying to clear it by disconnecting the battery. i have access to a shitty manual from alldatadiy.com, it suggests that disconnecting the battery is not the correct way to clear that code and that it might not actually clear it.

You will most likely have to clear the code with a code reader, disconnecting the battery won't do it.

There should be a "assembly data link connecter" either under the hood or under the dash. It will look like a plug with nothing plugged into it. You will want a service manual as it will tell you which terminals to place a jumper in to retrieve the codes. You will also need the manual for proper code interpretation. The manual should also tell you the correct way to clear the ECM.

I'm going in for a forearm tat tomorrow!

SWEET!! I would love to see a pic of the finished product.

Most def. Really excited...got pretty big forearms so should come out pretty good.

I personally have this book, but its published around 2000 so may or may not have what you need to know.

Got can goods?

Crazy.... it's kinda cool though

fuck, just when i thought i had my car fixed up.

i had a misfire on cylinder 3 and the camshaft position sensor a few weeks ago. (there was also a 3rd code, possible random cylinder misfire or a repeat of cyl. 3 misfire)

so i did new plugs and replaced the sensor.

if you remember, that's when i found this little gem

http://i277.phot

last week i replaced the valve gaskets on my own, not bad for a physics nerd haha

still have the misfire after replacing the gaskets so i got the codes read again.

p0300 random cylinder misfire and p0340 camshaft position sensor

ordered new coil boot (spark plug boots), figured i'd start by ruling out coil boots first.

any advice guys?

would purchasing an obd II scanner be any help? i wouldn't mind gambling 50 bucks on something like this obdlink sx- scan tool, if it could save me some money (avoid a mechanic).

car - oldsmobile intrigue

edit: i checked the camshaft sensor connections, everything looked good. ill pick up another sensor in a day or two, depending if they have to order it in

You can test your current sensors with a DMM to see if they are bad before wasting money on new ones. If the sensors test good then its something in the path of the signal.

I had a car that filled the plug holes with oil like that too. LOL

shit didn't think of that. too late i bought the sensor. but i measured all three (replacements and original). but i got some weird shit.. there are 3 pins; signal, power, and low.

the original and first replacement i bought have the same values when measured.

the newest one has different values. (all in the mega ohm range)

i haven't found the correct values yet. maybe i'm not searching for the right information.

i could assume that the original and first replacement are both bad, and the newest is fine. however, i dont have a scan tool to clear the code.

right now im trying to clear it by disconnecting the battery. i have access to a shitty manual from alldatadiy.com, it suggests that disconnecting the battery is not the correct way to clear that code and that it might not actually clear it.

You will most likely have to clear the code with a code reader, disconnecting the battery won't do it.

If disconnected for several minutes, the computer will be reset. If the sensor fixes the issue, the light will go off, but it will still be stored in memory.

If disconnected for several minutes, the computer will be reset. If the sensor fixes the issue, the light will go off, but it will still be stored in memory.

Mine will set off the light even if they are history codes, but then again its a temperamental Cadillac.

If disconnected for several minutes, the computer will be reset. If the sensor fixes the issue, the light will go off, but it will still be stored in memory.

Mine will set off the light even if they are history codes, but then again its a temperamental Cadillac.

Then it is still seeing an issue. If the issue is fixed, the light should shut off in a few key cycles or several miles.

fuck, just when i thought i had my car fixed up.

i had a misfire on cylinder 3 and the camshaft position sensor a few weeks ago. (there was also a 3rd code, possible random cylinder misfire or a repeat of cyl. 3 misfire)

so i did new plugs and replaced the sensor.

if you remember, that's when i found this little gem

http://i277.phot

last week i replaced the valve gaskets on my own, not bad for a physics nerd haha

still have the misfire after replacing the gaskets so i got the codes read again.

p0300 random cylinder misfire and p0340 camshaft position sensor

ordered new coil boot (spark plug boots), figured i'd start by ruling out coil boots first.

any advice guys?

would purchasing an obd II scanner be any help? i wouldn't mind gambling 50 bucks on something like this obdlink sx- scan tool, if it could save me some money (avoid a mechanic).

car - oldsmobile intrigue

edit: i checked the camshaft sensor connections, everything looked good. ill pick up another sensor in a day or two, depending if they have to order it in

You can test your current sensors with a DMM to see if they are bad before wasting money on new ones. If the sensors test good then its something in the path of the signal.

I had a car that filled the plug holes with oil like that too. LOL

shit didn't think of that. too late i bought the sensor. but i measured all three (replacements and original). but i got some weird shit.. there are 3 pins; signal, power, and low.

the original and first replacement i bought have the same values when measured.

the newest one has different values. (all in the mega ohm range)

i haven't found the correct values yet. maybe i'm not searching for the right information.

i could assume that the original and first replacement are both bad, and the newest is fine. however, i dont have a scan tool to clear the code.

right now im trying to clear it by disconnecting the battery. i have access to a shitty manual from alldatadiy.com, it suggests that disconnecting the battery is not the correct way to clear that code and that it might not actually clear it.

You will most likely have to clear the code with a code reader, disconnecting the battery won't do it.

There should be a "assembly data link connecter" either under the hood or under the dash. It will look like a plug with nothing plugged into it. You will want a service manual as it will tell you which terminals to place a jumper in to retrieve the codes. You will also need the manual for proper code interpretation. The manual should also tell you the correct way to clear the ECM.

i know a guy with a code reader. ill have him clear it and see if it comes back.

fuck, just when i thought i had my car fixed up.

i had a misfire on cylinder 3 and the camshaft position sensor a few weeks ago. (there was also a 3rd code, possible random cylinder misfire or a repeat of cyl. 3 misfire)

so i did new plugs and replaced the sensor.

if you remember, that's when i found this little gem

http://i277.phot

last week i replaced the valve gaskets on my own, not bad for a physics nerd haha

still have the misfire after replacing the gaskets so i got the codes read again.

p0300 random cylinder misfire and p0340 camshaft position sensor

ordered new coil boot (spark plug boots), figured i'd start by ruling out coil boots first.

any advice guys?

would purchasing an obd II scanner be any help? i wouldn't mind gambling 50 bucks on something like this obdlink sx- scan tool, if it could save me some money (avoid a mechanic).

car - oldsmobile intrigue

edit: i checked the camshaft sensor connections, everything looked good. ill pick up another sensor in a day or two, depending if they have to order it in

You can test your current sensors with a DMM to see if they are bad before wasting money on new ones. If the sensors test good then its something in the path of the signal.

I had a car that filled the plug holes with oil like that too. LOL

shit didn't think of that. too late i bought the sensor. but i measured all three (replacements and original). but i got some weird shit.. there are 3 pins; signal, power, and low.

the original and first replacement i bought have the same values when measured.

the newest one has different values. (all in the mega ohm range)

i haven't found the correct values yet. maybe i'm not searching for the right information.

i could assume that the original and first replacement are both bad, and the newest is fine. however, i dont have a scan tool to clear the code.

right now im trying to clear it by disconnecting the battery. i have access to a shitty manual from alldatadiy.com, it suggests that disconnecting the battery is not the correct way to clear that code and that it might not actually clear it.

You will most likely have to clear the code with a code reader, disconnecting the battery won't do it.

There should be a "assembly data link connecter" either under the hood or under the dash. It will look like a plug with nothing plugged into it. You will want a service manual as it will tell you which terminals to place a jumper in to retrieve the codes. You will also need the manual for proper code interpretation. The manual should also tell you the correct way to clear the ECM.

i know a guy with a code reader. ill have him clear it and see if it comes back.

If you go to O'rileys a lot of the time they'll let you use one off the shelf they've opened. A local place let my buddy do that a few times at a few locations.