I might throw up some other goodies, such as:

Dayton RS180's

Dayton RS28a

Seas Excel W18

Seas CA18RNX

Alpine XT19 variant

Have some more, just having a brainfart. Open to getting rid of anything.

Hmmm, W18 + FF85k in the Jeep ?

Truthfully you'd be better off with the ER's or CA's. The extra clarity in the lower midrange of the Excel isn't really the right thing to compromise in a car.

CA's would have been my second option. I wonder if they are an improvement over the Mach 5 MLI's. I guess I should try mine one day since I think they use the same mounting hole...

I am going to my niece's wedding today!! The first of the next generation to get married. WOW how time fly's.

Thinking of selling four Mli 6.5's and trying something different.

Gcons bitches!

I might throw up some other goodies, such as:

Dayton RS180's

Dayton RS28a

Seas Excel W18

Seas CA18RNX

Alpine XT19 variant

Have some more, just having a brainfart. Open to getting rid of anything.

Hmmm, W18 + FF85k in the Jeep ?

Truthfully you'd be better off with the ER's or CA's. The extra clarity in the lower midrange of the Excel isn't really the right thing to compromise in a car.

CA's would have been my second option. I wonder if they are an improvement over the Mach 5 MLI's. I guess I should try mine one day since I think they use the same mounting hole...

Huge improvement in every aspect.

Need help from the smart guys. I've got a crazy idea for an enclosure. Originally I thought about making it concentric, but think it'll look better if it is offset. Basically taking two pieces of PVC, using the table saw to notch out the center and then fitting an enclosure in between.

The outer ring is a 10" piece of PVC, the inner an 8". This would be for an 8" midbass. The little square in the middle is a 5.1" square horn. Obviously the boxed portion will get boxed and baffles and such will be applied to the 8. I left those faces off though as I have one "little"conundrum with it.

The box portion needs to attach to both rings to hold them appropriately. That is easy for the 8" tube as the baffles will be notched so that the enclosure walls meet it. The 10" however is not so easy. The back wall is fine since the "box" will extend to it. This leaves me needing one other way/place to attach the 10" tube somehow. Any ideas? All of mine are a shit ton of work and for a box that is so simple I'd like to avoid it.

Yes the 10" will be the port. Sure I could run sealed, but the mids I have chosen will roll off HARD starting at 200hz and for midbass that is weak. (down 10dB by 70Hz ) WIth a port I can get the 3dB point to 85Hz or so which buys a ton in the application especially considering that I will have no issues crossing the sub over high in this install. The sealed was a 10" the ported 8" as I can't fit a big enough enclosure to port the 10's which would be ideal. 4 8's ought to be pretty reasonable anyways.

So here's a pic in sketchup of the skeletal portion of the enclosure. Any thoughts on attaching the "front" part of the 10" pvc?

And of course any idea on bonding pvc to wood? rofl. This is probably a big fail

The easiest is to probably replace the center PVC with just a box. Baffle the front so it's round and not have it be visible deeper in. Was hoping for something that was less work. That box if it stayed together only means cutting two tubes, ripping them in two spots and making about 6 baffles for each side.

Can you cut the PVC to pretty tight tolerances?

What I was thinking is you make the box with the front baffles that will support the 8's and horn. Cut grooves in the box as guides for the 8 " PVC and the 10". Guide the 8" on from the back to the front and secure.

Apply the back baffle and with the other set of grooves on the top and bottom of the box, guide the 10" PVC in from the front and secure it to the grooves and the back baffle. You 8" will be shorter to allow air to go around to the 10" and out the front port.

I think may not have understood you problem completely.

BTW, that would look really bad ass.

Personally I'd cut channels into the MDF so you can slide the PVC in and use some long screws from between the tubes towards the inside and grab the MDF panel.

Seal off the gaps from the inside with some chopped fiberglass and epoxy resin and you can probably call it a day. You will probably have to install the 10" tube before the 8" tube.

I might throw up some other goodies, such as:

Dayton RS180's

Dayton RS28a

Seas Excel W18

Seas CA18RNX

Alpine XT19 variant

Have some more, just having a brainfart. Open to getting rid of anything.

Hmmm, W18 + FF85k in the Jeep ?

Truthfully you'd be better off with the ER's or CA's. The extra clarity in the lower midrange of the Excel isn't really the right thing to compromise in a car.

CA's would have been my second option. I wonder if they are an improvement over the Mach 5 MLI's. I guess I should try mine one day since I think they use the same mounting hole...

Huge improvement in every aspect.

Would feel sort of like a wasting the potential for midrange since my midbass is LP'ed at 200Hz.

Gah, this has me thinking now about a pair of Extremis 6.8. I don't want to step up to an SLS8 since it's way too much weight for the doors. How much do you want for the CA18's ?

I might throw up some other goodies, such as:

Dayton RS180's

Dayton RS28a

Seas Excel W18

Seas CA18RNX

Alpine XT19 variant

Have some more, just having a brainfart. Open to getting rid of anything.

Hmmm, W18 + FF85k in the Jeep ?

Truthfully you'd be better off with the ER's or CA's. The extra clarity in the lower midrange of the Excel isn't really the right thing to compromise in a car.

CA's would have been my second option. I wonder if they are an improvement over the Mach 5 MLI's. I guess I should try mine one day since I think they use the same mounting hole...

Huge improvement in every aspect.

Would feel sort of like a wasting the potential for midrange since my midbass is LP'ed at 200Hz.

Gah, this has me thinking now about a pair of Extremis 6.8. I don't want to step up to an SLS8 since it's way too much weight for the doors. How much do you want for the CA18's ?

Won't shipping be your bitch? If you are only going to 200Hz either the Extremis or Ex Anarchy would be a better choice.

Can you cut the PVC to pretty tight tolerances?

Probably between a 1/16" and 1/32" of an inch. I glue in a baffle then bolt a square baffle to the baffle and run it through the table saw. *would

What I was thinking is you make the box with the front baffles that will support the 8's and horn. Cut grooves in the box as guides for the 8 " PVC and the 10". Guide the 8" on from the back to the front and secure.

That sounds more complicated than ripping the holes for the horn box. Basically I had planned to do what I said above and build a box for the horns with a missing wall. Ultra easy to get it to the first tube, second is the tought one.

Apply the back baffle and with the other set of grooves on the top and bottom of the box, guide the 10" PVC in from the front and secure it to the grooves and the back baffle. You 8" will be shorter to allow air to go around to the 10" and out the front port.

I think may not have understood you problem completely.

And I didn't understand the "second set of grooves" Basically asking to add another layer to the horn box and use that on the 10" after the 8"?

Drill a pilot hole and sink some screws through the PVC into the MDF.

Personally I'd cut channels into the MDF so you can slide the PVC in and use some long screws from between the tubes towards the inside and grab the MDF panel.

Seal off the gaps from the inside with some chopped fiberglass and epoxy resin and you can probably call it a day. You will probably have to install the 10" tube before the 8" tube.

Channels?

Man my brain must be off. Just carried 37 sheets of sheet rock down the stairs so I know why that might be the case...

Anchor them in with some small nails through some holes, then glass some cloth over them to the MDF giving a nice flowing look.

Drill a pilot hole and sink some screws through the PVC into the MDF.

Okay Mr. Functional and simple.

Probably a good idea for sealing purposes anyways, but it's more work to clean up before paint. Somewhat afraid I'll do a good job of splitting them to...

With drivers and boat color.

Err, not really drivers but they are actual size and to scale

Anchor them in with some small nails through some holes, then glass some cloth over them to the MDF giving a nice flowing look.

Sounds like a good option.

With drivers and boat color.

Err, not really drivers but they are actual size and to scale

That looks pretty cool.

I'm sure I don't have to tell you to ditch the MDF and use plywood, or some nice cedar boards. YOu not only have water to deal with and we all know no matter how well you seal things, water seems to find it's way in. With the huge temperature swings you have, you'll be dealing with condensation and thermal shock as well.

Almost forgot today is Friday 13th! My favorite day does not come around very often.