I have an audiopipe ap1500d running 2 fi ssd 12's. when i turn my music up and the bass sounds really good it will just cut out and will turn back on when i turn it down, any ideas?

check your grounds, whats your electrical consist of?

how are your drivers wired? are they putting a 1ohm load on your amp? .5? 2?

Edited June 29, 201015 yr by stefanhinote

my car did that and it was b/c of the voltage drop and i ended up frying my amp but it could be anything from abouve stated by stefanhinote

I have all 4 gauge wiring with 8 gauge speaker wire. its wired to put a 1 ohm load on my amp. i mean ive had the subs for a month and they work fine as long as i dont turn them up a lot. i just know that im not pushing them to their potential.

Can the inputs on the ap1500.1 fit 0 gauge? If so you should switch to all 0 gauge wire and do the big three. Maybe add a second battery in the back. Electrical is the most important thing in your install because without a good one, everything fails.

Start with checking your ground on your amp. Also try a different source like an iPOD and see if that will make the amp cut out as it's turned up. RCA's could also be a culprit.

check your grounds, whats your electrical consist of?

how are your drivers wired? are they putting a 1ohm load on your amp? .5? 2?

Requoted and highlighted, because we never got an answer.

i have all 4 gauge wiring, new ford motorcraft battery, and a h/o alternator. im for sure switching to 0 gauge soon.

i have all 4 gauge wiring, new ford motorcraft battery, and a h/o alternator. im for sure switching to 0 gauge soon.

You have a ford batt with a high output alternator?

Switch to 0 gauge now.

Make sure it's wired down lower than the amp can handle. some of those AP amps can only handle 2 ohms, and some 1 ohm.

you're not clipping your amp ?? (rf) ... just a suggestion

Take a DMM, or go to a shop like Best Buy that has installers with DMMs. It's only 20 bucks for a cheap one so I'd buy one- they're good to have around.

Check your voltage at the amp when its playing, preferably around the volume where it shuts off. If it's below 12.5 or so you really need to upgrade your charging. If not I'd look into other amps. My experience is that by the time those amps put out decent power they're starting to clip, though others swear by them.

Also you say you have a h/o alt, what brand? How old? If you can post up what your actual voltage is at the amp on heavy bass notes there are more suggestions we may be able to offer.

Good luck.

The alternator is brand new. the first thing im doing is putting all 0 gauge wiring in and a battery in the back. if that doesnt work im gonna get a new amp

Julian, the ap1500d can be wired down to 1 ohm. OP, Show a diagram of how you wired it.

Now, what is your voltage while you have the system playing? And what brand of high output alternator did you get? You don't need to upgrade to 1/0 yet. Get a DMM and check your voltage.

Take a DMM, or go to a shop like Best Buy that has installers with DMMs. It's only 20 bucks for a cheap one so I'd buy one- they're good to have around.

Check your voltage at the amp when its playing, preferably around the volume where it shuts off. If it's below 12.5 or so you really need to upgrade your charging. If not I'd look into other amps. My experience is that by the time those amps put out decent power they're starting to clip, though others swear by them.

Also you say you have a h/o alt, what brand? How old? If you can post up what your actual voltage is at the amp on heavy bass notes there are more suggestions we may be able to offer.

Good luck.

Please respond when you get a chance, it will help a lot.

The alternator is brand new. the first thing im doing is putting all 0 gauge wiring in and a battery in the back. if that doesnt work im gonna get a new amp

Some h/o alts are more likely to fail. I've installed brand new alternators (one being Powermaster) and had an issue even brand new. My brother had 2 die on his truck before he got one that worked for him. I wouldn't rule it out until you get the dmm and check things. You're talking about $20 or so for a dmm, which is cheaper than upgrading the wire alone.