has anyone ever used rattle trap from flatmat is it anygood and if so how does it compare to dynamat and damplifier

I used Fatmat on this project I beleive we used the 50mil vs the 80mil that the rattle trap is. I saw no problems with the adhesion of the product, but someone posted that they had problems with theirs peeling. I hope I don't have that problem. Havn't seen an issue yet and ours has been installed about 2-3 months.

has it made a nice diference on sound

and is that ccf foam and vinyl stuff necessary on newer cars

Most of the fatmat products are asphalt based. I see on their site that they now make a couple of products that use their "patented" butyl compound. Probably mixed with more asphalt or other rubbery cheap compound.

When you compare fatmat pound for pound against a heavy weight like Second Skin... fatmat will always come up short.

Also, I'm moving this to the correct forum since it has NOTHING to do with Fi. Thanks for playing.

has it made a nice diference on sound

and is that ccf foam and vinyl stuff necessary on newer cars

Sound deadener adds mass to the thin metal panels that make up the vehicle. I've seen people use peal 'n seal from hardware stores. Even with that cheap substitute you CAN hear a difference. Now before you go out and buy a bunch of peal n seal I gotta tell you two things. First of all, while it did make a difference in sound it is not as dramatic as real sound deadeners. Second, all it took was one year of getting hot in the summer and cold in the winter and more than half of it had came off. As soon as it comes loose it is no longer doing its job and it wont stick back on again either. I've used RaamMat in my vehicles and have had great results. I'd love to try Second Skin but it's still a bit out of my price range usually.

It's my personal opinion that the CCF and vinyl are needed more in today's cars than older ones. Today's car's are built with thin, flimsy sheet metal and more and more plastic. You should visit the SoundDeadenerShowdown.com website and read carefully through it and Second Skin's site as well. Don and Ant go into some great detail on what the deadener, CCF and vinyl does. The how it works and why we use it is important to know before you purchase anything.

Dont do it i have personal experience with rattle trap extreme. The first week I had it in my doors it started peeling and stuck to my windows. So i had to take off the Plastic panels and pulll the stuff from my windows. Later on during that summer before i started putting my car back together it started peeling in my quarter panels. I had to get some gorilla glue and stick it back on to the meta. 2yrs later my girlfriend got a stain on her leg from my door. I did some investigation and found that it was so hot that the deadner in my doors was melting through the drain holes at the bottom of my door.

Do NOT I repeat Do Not buy rattle trap extreme.

I emailed customer service and it took them a week to respond they asked for pictures I emailed them that day and they said that they couldnt see the pictures. I emailed them in a different picture format and they never responded.

Do NOT buy from these people. Save your money and buy from either Second Skin or sound deadener showdown. I ordered from Don he took care of me really well. Gave me all the info I needed and helped me greatly.

You dont wanna end up like me spending hrs cleaning up the mess this stuff leaves on your doors.

And once again Fuck FAT MAT and RATTLE TRAP EXTREME.

Go to sounddeadershowdown.com and read up on the techniques used. Be smart with your money.

Somebody on CA.com asked the same question in this thread. This photo pretty much sums it up:

Edited August 2, 201015 yr by Rudy

Poor subie.

Don't even use it if its free.

Cannot beat the quality and service from Don or Ant!

I had a friend that used FatMat and it was okay for awhile but later that summer it started to melt and drip like the pic above and then in the winter it fell off completely.

And another thing the quality of the rattle trap extreme next to reputable brands like second skin and SDS is horrible.

You could stretch and pull apart the rattle trap extreme. While the other 2 the foil backing is so strong its hard almost like thin sheet metal. I dont know how to explain it. Its just on another level

I've had rattle trap in my doors.

It make a good difference but it started melted and ship 6 month later..

Dont waste your money with that product.

Your better to buy the right product than waste your money on THE s....

If you cant afford a good deadner, wait the time you can.

Now I had Dynamat Xtreme and i'm sastified.I would try SS on my next build.

I've used B-Quiet on my past two installs.

If it's installed correctly there will be no issue of melting.

Mine's been in my truck for 3 years.

No sagging or melting.

Not even on the roof of my truck cap.

I've used B-Quiet on my past two installs.

If it's installed correctly there will be no issue of melting.

Mine's been in my truck for 3 years.

No sagging or melting.

Not even on the roof of my truck cap.

Hmmmm?

I kinda meant clean the surface completely and use hard rollers to apply the material (butt end of a screw driver in tight places)

Even tape won't stick to dirt and grime.

Unless the car just came off the factory line, there's going to be a film of dirt.

Simply wiping with a paper towel and standard household cleaners won't completely clean it either.

Denatured alcohol or mineral spirits used carefully will clean the surface the best.

On my truck cap I used a ton of denatured alcohol and what seemed like a ton of rags.

Also foil tape goes a long way on the edge seems.

In industrial sheet metal work I've often had to install the same type of materials on the outside of

air handler units and some duct work that often sees temperatures far beyone what your car will ever be exposed to.

With a good butyl based mat there won't be an issue and the material will last for many years.

I kinda meant clean the surface completely and use hard rollers to apply the material (butt end of a screw driver in tight places)

Even tape won't stick to dirt and grime.

Unless the car just came off the factory line, there's going to be a film of dirt.

Simply wiping with a paper towel and standard household cleaners won't completely clean it either.

Denatured alcohol or mineral spirits used carefully will clean the surface the best.

On my truck cap I used a ton of denatured alcohol and what seemed like a ton of rags.

Also foil tape goes a long way on the edge seems.

In industrial sheet metal work I've often had to install the same type of materials on the outside of

air handler units and some duct work that often sees temperatures far beyone what your car will ever be exposed to.

With a good butyl based mat there won't be an issue and the material will last for many years.

This thread is about using ASPHALT materials.

i got some damp and damp pro a little of both prob gona use the damp pro in the trunk and the damp on the doors ..might as well spend the money on the good stuff ..dont wana be stuck with bs...anyway how does damp compare to damp pro and is it a good idea to use damp on the doors and damp pro in the back

I kinda meant clean the surface completely and use hard rollers to apply the material (butt end of a screw driver in tight places)

Even tape won't stick to dirt and grime.

Unless the car just came off the factory line, there's going to be a film of dirt.

Simply wiping with a paper towel and standard household cleaners won't completely clean it either.

Denatured alcohol or mineral spirits used carefully will clean the surface the best.

On my truck cap I used a ton of denatured alcohol and what seemed like a ton of rags.

Also foil tape goes a long way on the edge seems.

In industrial sheet metal work I've often had to install the same type of materials on the outside of

air handler units and some duct work that often sees temperatures far beyone what your car will ever be exposed to.

With a good butyl based mat there won't be an issue and the material will last for many years.

This thread is about using ASPHALT materials.

With a crappy adhesive. Jay, go park your car in Florida for a week in the summer and see how you feel afterwards.

With a crappy adhesive. Jay, go park your car in Florida for a week in the summer and see how you feel afterwards.

Doesn't even need to be FL. A lot of us have looked at the air temperature inside a car as the determining factor. It turns out that the temperature at the sheet metal for a vehicle parked in the sun is much higher. I've measured 180°F at the sheet metal in my silver car, parked in the sun for a few hours in Maryland. A dark car will add 10-20°. Internal air temperature was around 130°F. Rubberized asphalt melts at 180°. Even low grade buytl will turn into gooey slop at these temperatures. Nothing like pulling wire through a car on a hot summer day and having it come through coated in the butyl adhesive that was supposed to be good to 250°.

The more important point is that we have been conditioned to look at these products in terms of price per square foot. Since we've been told we need several layers everywhere, it seemed like a sensible metric. Problem is, asphalt and low quality butyl with thin foil layers perform similarly - terribly. The testing I've done points to it taking from 6-10 times as much of these materials to APPROACH the performance of a proper constrained layer vibration damper. Put that number into your calculations and you will do more work, spend more money and end up with a treatment you can't rely on. Why bother?

so is it a good idea to use damp on the doors and damp pro in the back where theirs more vibration

Actually the best idea is to use tiles from Don at SDS. Link is in my sig and not only will you have a better result per dollar, but also get really good advice.

how do you buy from that website

Unlike other sites, he will try his hardest not to have you buy a bunch of stuff you don't need. That being said the easiest way to reach him is probably sending him a PM. "Rudy" from a couple posts above is the owner