October 30, 201014 yr Setup looks great!!!! Need me some front stage like that!!I too, but I am more of a leg man!!Bring on some vids!!
October 30, 201014 yr Author I played pierce lake golf course around Ann Arbor, yesterday with my buddy.Ha, I drove right by you.Lookin' good so far Thanks ///M5 for the compliment and your help.!!!! :thanx: You are 100% correct in this equipment being worlds better than what I had before.You were in Michigan, I wish I 'd have known that.
October 30, 201014 yr Author In the pic with the JL300/2 you have your power wires ran through the side of the truck? How is that all wired up? What is the schematic for your electrical? It's in the log.I have 4- 1/0 runs (2 pos. 2 neg.) form the battery to the rear seat on the drivers side.They are tied to the frame and enter from the bottom of the truck.I used water tight strain reliefs to bring them into the truck.1 pos. and 1 neg. go strait to the saz 2000d.1 pos. and 1 neg. go to the terminals under the 300/2 and supply power to the the 300/2 and the sax125.2 with 4 ga. runs.I also have a relay coming off the pos. terminal to use battery power to turn on the amps and run the fans, controlled by the head units remote turn on. I'm not sure it can be seen in the pics.
October 30, 201014 yr Author Setup looks great!!!! Need me some front stage like that!!I too, but I am more of a leg man!!Bring on some vids!!Thank you sir. I'm pretty happy so far and I still have allot of tuning to do.I'm a leg/ass man myself, but are great to.My camera is pretty crappy, but I'll get some when I fix the clearance issue. Edited October 30, 201014 yr by cobra93
October 30, 201014 yr Very nice craftmanship! Love the metal enclosures in the doors for the mids/midbass'.
October 30, 201014 yr Author Very nice craftmanship! Love the metal enclosures in the doors for the mids/midbass'.Thank you!!! They were worth the time it took to make and install them.They sound fantastic.I had some running to do today.I'd listen for a while, turn the sub on for 10 seconds, turn the sub back off again.The sls's really hammer, excellent speakers!!
October 30, 201014 yr Author Love your amp rack Thanks stefanhinote, it turned out pretty good and keeps the amps out of sight.
October 30, 201014 yr In the pic with the JL300/2 you have your power wires ran through the side of the truck? How is that all wired up? What is the schematic for your electrical? It's in the log.I have 4- 1/0 runs (2 pos. 2 neg.) form the battery to the rear seat on the drivers side.They are tied to the frame and enter from the bottom of the truck.I used water tight strain reliefs to bring them into the truck.1 pos. and 1 neg. go strait to the saz 2000d.1 pos. and 1 neg. go to the terminals under the 300/2 and supply power to the the 300/2 and the sax125.2 with 4 ga. runs.I also have a relay coming off the pos. terminal to use battery power to turn on the amps and run the fans, controlled by the head units remote turn on. I'm not sure it can be seen in the pics.Sweet nice set up. What are "water tight strain reliefs" ?
October 30, 201014 yr Author In the pic with the JL300/2 you have your power wires ran through the side of the truck? How is that all wired up? What is the schematic for your electrical? It's in the log.I have 4- 1/0 runs (2 pos. 2 neg.) form the battery to the rear seat on the drivers side.They are tied to the frame and enter from the bottom of the truck.I used water tight strain reliefs to bring them into the truck.1 pos. and 1 neg. go strait to the saz 2000d.1 pos. and 1 neg. go to the terminals under the 300/2 and supply power to the the 300/2 and the sax125.2 with 4 ga. runs.I also have a relay coming off the pos. terminal to use battery power to turn on the amps and run the fans, controlled by the head units remote turn on. I'm not sure it can be seen in the pics.Sweet nice set up. What are "water tight strain reliefs" ?These: strain reliefYou drill a hole in whatever you want to pass through.Insert the strain relief.Push the wire through the strain relief and tighten the nut.A rubber grommet and some teeth grab the wire and seal around it.
October 31, 201014 yr Cobra, great build. i love how easy you make it look while i know it took time and thought. i'm about an hour from you in toledo. i'm just north of Detroit. I'm really tempted to buy some of those peerless now and use them instead of the JL Vr comps i have. got them for $80 last year and they don't do anything.Keep it up and let us/me know if there are any shows you're going to. i'd love to see your truck
October 31, 201014 yr Author Cobra, great build. i love how easy you make it look while i know it took time and thought. i'm about an hour from you in toledo. i'm just north of Detroit. I'm really tempted to buy some of those peerless now and use them instead of the JL Vr comps i have. got them for $80 last year and they don't do anything.Keep it up and let us/me know if there are any shows you're going to. i'd love to see your truck I've been in these doors before, so I had a general idea of what I needed to do I installed the alarm in this truck back in May or June and had been thinking about the doors since then.It did come together pretty well in the end.I don't know of any shows around here to go to.The trucks got better then 100,000 miles on it now and I can't keep ball joints on it, I need to change the drivers side lower again in the next few days and get some tires quick.I need to find something else next year, but I don't know what.
November 1, 201014 yr well, if you ever decide to go to the detroit area let me know. i too would love to get something different, my little blazer is becoming a money pit more and more
November 1, 201014 yr I wish I could here some competition quality setups so I had a frame of reference/comparison.A big Thanks to everyone who that helped me in my mid bass thread and those who kept me going with the awesome compliments during the build, You guys rock!!! i just thought I'd throw some BOOBS in there for good measure!You really grabbed the bull by the horns on this build!!! You did a killer job on EVERYTHING!! The steal door pods are just evil. The amp rack is super solid looking. Amazing job on fitting those 3's where you did.You and me both wish we had a reference vehicle. Always glad to be of some help.
November 1, 201014 yr Author I wish I could here some competition quality setups so I had a frame of reference/comparison.A big Thanks to everyone who that helped me in my mid bass thread and those who kept me going with the awesome compliments during the build, You guys rock!!! i just thought I'd throw some BOOBS in there for good measure!You really grabbed the bull by the horns on this build!!! You did a killer job on EVERYTHING!! The steal door pods are just evil. The amp rack is super solid looking. Amazing job on fitting those 3's where you did.You and me both wish we had a reference vehicle. Always glad to be of some help. Thanks bro. I'm happy the way everything turned out so far and just in time, weather wise. I can only imagine what 2 10"s/12"s must sound like after hearing the(4) 6-1/2"s
November 2, 201014 yr Admin Great work man, I hope that Peel n Seal stays for you on the vertical surface.
November 2, 201014 yr Author Great work man, I hope that Peel n Seal stays for you on the vertical surface.Thanks Denim! It was a pain in a** to remove from the inner door skin when I put the enclosures in, only time will tell.I think I'll be changing to another vehicle next year, we'll see.
November 3, 201014 yr Thanks bro. I'm happy the way everything turned out so far and just in time, weather wise. I can only imagine what 2 10"s/12"s must sound like after hearing the(4) 6-1/2"s The 12s have been treating me well after conquering the door resonations. Theres still a frequency or two that makes the door glass resonate quite loudly but nothing I can do about that.The lower I cross the midbasses the better and better it gets. I couldn't locate the sub in the car if I tryed once everything was phased, level matched and T/A'd.I ended up wiring the driver midbass out of phase. What did you end up with?
November 3, 201014 yr Author Thanks bro. I'm happy the way everything turned out so far and just in time, weather wise. I can only imagine what 2 10"s/12"s must sound like after hearing the(4) 6-1/2"s The 12s have been treating me well after conquering the door resonations. Theres still a frequency or two that makes the door glass resonate quite loudly but nothing I can do about that.The lower I cross the midbasses the better and better it gets. I couldn't locate the sub in the car if I tryed once everything was phased, level matched and T/A'd.I ended up wiring the driver midbass out of phase. What did you end up with?I haven't had a chance to mess with the phase yet, I hope I can this weekend or early next week.I have run into a very irritating problem with the eclipse head unit.I stated before it's more like a surround sound you'd have in your house than a stereo in your car.This is the issue.I can set my crossovers for my 88's and sls's where I want (high/low pass), but when I turn on the sub the hu has it's own idea and changes the high pass on the sls's.It must have a standard ~80 hertz crossover like most HT systems, similar to a low frequency channel.I emailed cust. support at eclipse, haven't heard back yet and doubt I ever will. The manual states the "front/rear/non-fader can be configured as a high/mid/low when in pro mode", but it doesn't tell you anything more on how to do this.I can't wait to get this out of my car!!I think I'll pull the sub out for a while so I can adjust the phase and crossovers. If you look back at my setup, I've got to remove a seat, pull the sub and pull the board out to get at the amp speaker outs.It's great for security, but sucks for tuning.I'm glad to hear your happy with your setup!!I know what a couple of 8's can do in the front, but 2- 12's has got to make your sphincter pucker!!! I don't know if you'd get me out of your car if I was ever able to hear it. Do you have any idea where your crossing your wide-banders and the 12's at?I'm curious, if you have time alignment will a phase switch still matter or just change the amount of time alignment needed? Hmm, I guess I'll have to try it and find out.
November 3, 201014 yr Author I saw this after I wrote the above post.From Eclipse tech support.Thank you for contacting Eclipse;Joe, Unfortunately the owners manual was a miss print the unit goes in to pro mode when you use the PEQ and Time Allignment there was no activation button on this unit.Tech support.Well thanks for the reply, but not what I was hoping to hear.
November 8, 201014 yr I know what a couple of 8's can do in the front, but 2- 12's has got to make your sphincter pucker!!! I don't know if you'd get me out of your car if I was ever able to hear it. Do you have any idea where your crossing your wide-banders and the 12's at?I'm curious, if you have time alignment will a phase switch still matter or just change the amount of time alignment needed? Hmm, I guess I'll have to try it and find out. I have the crossovers built into the HU so I can change the settings while listening. I have had the xover point as high as 1000hz, and as low as 200hz. The higher I have the crossover point, the lower the sound stage gets, And the 12s start becoming over bearing. The lower I go with the crossover point the more the 12s blend. Below 200hz the 3s get strained. Remember this is my first active so I am testing over and over to learn. I have had the crossover point at 250hz for a few months now, 6db slope on the top of the 12s (shallow slope blended better) and 12db on the bottom of the 3s (any less slope they strain). Little by little I get closer to perfection, so I am sure things will change.As far as crossing the low end of the midbass, the lower the better. I keep hesitating to overlap the sub, but after testing realized the midbasses sounded best crossed LoooooooW. I brought the sub back in and it blends better than ever. I have the 12s playing down to 20hz and the sub set at 30-50hz. The other big reason why I have the 12s crossed so low on the bottom is for cooling. The drivers are designed as subs and need excursion for cooling, as I learned this the hard way.To anwser your question about T/A and phasing. Even once you have achieved perfect timing of the different sources waves with the t/a, the waves can still be 180 of each other. One sources wave can be in a compression cycle, while the other sources wave is in a rarefraction cycle, the waves will be 180 apart and attemp to cancel each other out. The next thing to understand is wavelenghts change with frequency, so back to how this applys to the mids and fullrangers. The only frequency that applys to phasing between the mids and full rangers is at the xover point because thats where multible sources are playing the same frequency.I shouldn't say this is the only phasing that applys, because you also want each pair of drivers is phase with each other also. ie: the 3s is phase with each other and the 8s in phase with each other, and then phase between mids and fullrangers. Phasing between each pair of drivers is more across the whole range they are playing, not just the xover point. Usaully notible to me from either severe comb filtering or on driver barking over the other, sounding out of place. I am sure I will get flamed or corrected if any of the techs read this but its a good general summary of whats going on, with my limited knowledge.
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