Posted October 30, 201014 yr Hi, people. Here I'll be posting my build log of a box I am working on. This is going to be my first properly done box. First time using plywood, wood glue, clamps and any sort of design and calculations. Last one was done with particle board, silicone and screws. Let's talk about the box. It is going to be 1.74 cub ft for a 12" SA-12 , the used material is poplar plywood, kerfed port tuned to 32hz, flushed driver, painted port and around the driver in white, wrapped in carpet, bolt terminals.The design was done by Bromo and excellent is the least I can say about it. He did all I asked about the box in a pretty fast time considering it is not an easy job. He is the man! And let's get on with the pictures, shall we? Example of Bromos work. He gave me all the dimensions and a good explanation about how I should proceed with the kerfing. If you are wondering who should do your box, PM him and he will hook you up with an awesome design! Got wood? Doing some work.Playing with the macro. Forgot to turn on the flash. :/Cleaning factory cuts.Part of the puzzle done. I think I need to cut two more pieces and then it's glue time.
October 30, 201014 yr Hey there... Dude I'm looking forward to seeing how it turns out. Glad to see you're gettin' started doing what you been wanting to do for awhile now!
October 30, 201014 yr we get the idea but i think i need to help Bromo on using Sketchup, hehe.There are quite a few finishing touches u can do so the design actually looks the way it suppose to.For the actual design-The internal baffle needs to be flushed with the kerf.If you are going to 45 "some corners", you might as well do all of them...There are some designs where u cant 45 every corner but according to this design, you can.and for a personal preference of mine, instead of running a dowel rod the whole width of the box, just attach it to the vertical runs so the void in between the 2 vertical runs are wide open. Gives more room to breathe and less potential for turbulence.And honestly, just based on the design itself, you shouldn't even need ANY internal bracing... If you glue the top down and put a LOT of weight on it to securily adhere to the internal port wall, back wall and side walls, then the lengths of the internal walls in the box aren't really long enough to be concerned of flexing to the point that it would hinder performance.
October 30, 201014 yr Author Hey there... Dude I'm looking forward to seeing how it turns out. Glad to see you're gettin' started doing what you been wanting to do for awhile now!Thanks, man. Yeah it's been a while. Stay tuned for more pictures. That's pretty basic what I am doing right now. When I get to the kerfing is the actual fun. Hope I don't screw it up.For the actual design-The internal baffle needs to be flushed with the kerf.If you are going to 45 "some corners", you might as well do all of them...There are some designs where u cant 45 every corner but according to this design, you can.and for a personal preference of mine, instead of running a dowel rod the whole width of the box, just attach it to the vertical runs so the void in between the 2 vertical runs are wide open. Gives more room to breathe and less potential for turbulence.And honestly, just based on the design itself, you shouldn't even need ANY internal bracing... If you glue the top down and put a LOT of weight on it to securily adhere to the internal port wall, back wall and side walls, then the lengths of the internal walls in the box aren't really long enough to be concerned of flexing to the point that it would hinder performance.For the baffle thing I may and I may not flush it.Actually this was the first picture he send me. After that we changed the port tuning and added bracing. This is the final product.I don't think more 45 are necessary. And I am going to skip bracing exactly because of the boxs size and turbulence.them some big ass picsI forgot to turn on the flash or they would've been even better. I like to play around with the camera. I take a couple of different pictures of the same thing and leave only the best one. Always hi res. Sorry if I takes a while to load. Just leave it a while and then come back.
October 30, 201014 yr do NOT put that extra turn on the port wall... Just do the 45 in the corner next to it.Adding that little bitty turn on the port wall like that is just... not good.It will create turbulence and that port is too sharp anyways. the 45 in the corner next to it will still acoustically tune it the way you want to and if it by any chance doesnt, you may be off.. 1hz. this isn't audible.
October 31, 201014 yr Author No reason to double the side walls either.That's the design view. The sides are flushed too, not doubled.
October 31, 201014 yr The top of the top panel is transparent, it's not doubled on the sides.Bromo is very good with enclosure designs.
October 31, 201014 yr Author Eating breakfast at 3 PM I've been doing some work in the morning. Glued bottom and back.First time kerfing, so did some experiments before working on the actual piece.Now I am going to glue the sides and cut the kerf.These were made by my father when working with bigger project like whole doors and windows. But I ended up not using them.I need more clamps.Glued and clamped. My hand kinda hurt a lil but it's for good, very tight bond.Right before cleaning the excess glue.Playing with kerfing. There is a critical point where the wood bends or breaks.Looks good to me. Now I have to do the same thing to the big piece. -Teo
October 31, 201014 yr Author First two pieces glued. Now lets fire this bad boy up. Mega Sander lol That's the side which will be a part of the port. It has to be smooth for the paint. Before/After picture. Very soft. The whole piece is covered with glue which is very important for a strong bond.Clamping again.
October 31, 201014 yr Author And now the kerfing.Marking where I should cut.AND NOW EPIC FAIL....................................................................FUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUU That is it for today. I'll just make a new piece tomorrow.
October 31, 201014 yr Would this design also work the new SKAR 12" subwoofer?? It also requires about 1.75 cuft and similar tuning. What do you guys think?
November 2, 201014 yr Author Made some progress this night. Been out of town these days so it's the only time I can work.Sides glued.New pieces sanded and drawn again. This time I used a piece of wood and a clamp to attach it to the baffle. That way I can hold the saw against it and make straight line. The first time I hold it without support and the lines were not the best.Perfect. That extra line is for the 11th channel, but I didn't cut it.YES!Dry fit. It needs a little more work for a perfect 1/4 circle.There were some little crack, but nothing to make it actually break. Minor sanding and it will be perfect.Beautiful. I'm relieved considering my first failed attempt.
November 2, 201014 yr Author looks great... wish I had the tools and time to do this workThanks, man. If I didn't have the proper tools I would not have got into this for sure.
November 4, 201014 yr dude please resize the images smaller. Its taking forEVA to finish loading. Good shit otherwise.
November 4, 201014 yr Author Resizing the images making them twice smaller. Should be ready in a couple.
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