I am looking into getting a pair of FI BL 12" dual 1 ohm subs for daily use. I will be using either a 2100 watt rms amp or a 2400 watt rms amp. Or, should I go with more power? I know for certain that I will be getting the daily, p chamfer and hyper pole options. I am unsure about the cooling, extreme lead and flatwind options. I have heard that the cooling option will decrease the power of the driver and also, that the flatwind coil is a no-no for daily applications. Is this true? Now, for the amp dilemma, should I go with 2100 or 2400? If i used 2100, I will not get all the above options I previously mentioned, just p chamfer and prob hyper pole. If i go 2400, I will get them pretty much fully loaded. I know these subs are beastly so I am unsure of which route to go. Whichever route I end up taking, I will be upgrading to a 220 amp alternator. Can someone tell me whether or not I should upgrade my battery (and which one if I need to) or should I just get a kinetik power cell? I am trying to go with the least expensive electrical upgrades possible. And with the box, should I do sub and port up? Or, sub and port back? The car will be either a scion xB or tC (2008 or newer). Thanks!!!

Also, doing big 3, of course.

cooling will add more power handling and so will flat wind coils. those subs will take 1200 each without a problem if you are smart. Play music not test tones, dont clip them, ect be smart...pick either amp they will both be fine.

I am looking into getting a pair of FI BL 12" dual 1 ohm subs for daily use. I will be using either a 2100 watt rms amp or a 2400 watt rms amp. Or, should I go with more power? I know for certain that I will be getting the daily, p chamfer and hyper pole options. I am unsure about the cooling, extreme lead and flatwind options. I have heard that the cooling option will decrease the power of the driver and also, that the flatwind coil is a no-no for daily applications. Is this true? Now, for the amp dilemma, should I go with 2100 or 2400? If i used 2100, I will not get all the above options I previously mentioned, just p chamfer and prob hyper pole. If i go 2400, I will get them pretty much fully loaded. I know these subs are beastly so I am unsure of which route to go. Whichever route I end up taking, I will be upgrading to a 220 amp alternator. Can someone tell me whether or not I should upgrade my battery (and which one if I need to) or should I just get a kinetik power cell? I am trying to go with the least expensive electrical upgrades possible. And with the box, should I do sub and port up? Or, sub and port back? The car will be either a scion xB or tC (2008 or newer). Thanks!!!

The cooling increases the amount of cooling that is effectively pulled over the voice coil, thus obviously cooling. The flat wound coil also increases power handling due to the fact that a flat coil has more effective area to cool vs a normal round coil. (the only adverse thing to cooling is that it removes metal from the motor thus less motor strength this only matters when your using them for burp/fart setups only)

I would suggest cooling as a bare minimum for the subwoofer.

I would suggest first monitoring your voltage for drops to see where you'll need the upgrades.. As for batteries it will depend on your car.. For a rear battery whilst leaving your front In would be either a deka 9A31 or a xs power d3200

cooling will add more power handling and so will flat wind coils. those subs will take 1200 each without a problem if you are smart. Play music not test tones, dont clip them, ect be smart...pick either amp they will both be fine.

They'll take a fair amount more then 1200 if done right, and I'm not talking about just burps.

cooling will add more power handling and so will flat wind coils. those subs will take 1200 each without a problem if you are smart. Play music not test tones, dont clip them, ect be smart...pick either amp they will both be fine.

They'll take a fair amount more then 1200 if done right, and I'm not talking about just burps.

Hehe but thats not for the faint of heart

Ive done burps on my BL with my old saz-3000d at .5 ohms... But that was a little insane

cooling will add more power handling and so will flat wind coils. those subs will take 1200 each without a problem if you are smart. Play music not test tones, dont clip them, ect be smart...pick either amp they will both be fine.

They'll take a fair amount more then 1200 if done right, and I'm not talking about just burps.

Hehe but thats not for the faint of heart

Ive done burps on my BL with my old saz-3000d at .5 ohms... But that was a little insane

Yeah that's a little diff haha, for burps everything changes since it's such a short amount of time.

I would suggest first monitoring your voltage for drops to see where you'll need the upgrades.. As for batteries it will depend on your car.. For a rear battery whilst leaving your front In would be either a deka 9A31 or a xs power d3200

Are those two better than the kinetiks? And pretty much, I would be good doing the big 3, 220 amp alt and either one of those batteries/power cells in the rear next to the amp?

And what about the sub up port up/sub back port back/sub up port back layout??

I would suggest first monitoring your voltage for drops to see where you'll need the upgrades.. As for batteries it will depend on your car.. For a rear battery whilst leaving your front In would be either a deka 9A31 or a xs power d3200

Are those two better than the kinetiks? And pretty much, I would be good doing the big 3, 220 amp alt and either one of those batteries/power cells in the rear next to the amp?

And what about the sub up port up/sub back port back/sub up port back layout??

The deka is a fairly priced battery and has good performance, the largest kinetik and XS are both very comparable and extremely strong.

The port alignment and the subwoofer alignment will be based solely on your vehicle

EDIT

reread your post and subs up port back for the tC would be quite optimal and either subs up port back for the xB or subs forward port forward

Thanks for the info!! Will be looking forward to the build

The deka is a fairly priced battery and has good performance, the largest kinetik and XS are both very comparable and extremely strong.

i would have to disagree.

Get the cooling option, and universal option in case you later want to change the impedence. The xB looks to have a good amount of cargo area, 5 cubic feet poted, with a tuning of 32 or 33hz, Fi website says that 33hz has the most output for daily. Also, I agree with "Julian", for the xB have the woofers up, with the port facing the rear.

Get the cooling option, and universal option in case you later want to change the impedence. The xB looks to have a good amount of cargo area, 5 cubic feet poted, with a tuning of 32 or 33hz, Fi website says that 33hz has the most output for daily. Also, I agree with "Julian", for the xB have the woofers up, with the port facing the rear.

Yes that is my real name.

I would recommend the Deka in a heartbeat. I have a stock 110 amp alt and a single 9a31. My voltage stays above 12.8 at all times and Im running a bxi1608d which pushes about 1600 at 1 ohm. Not too shabby for a $200 battery.

2100 / 2400 you WON'T hear a difference. That could influence your other decisions...

Get the cooling option, and universal option in case you later want to change the impedence. The xB looks to have a good amount of cargo area, 5 cubic feet poted, with a tuning of 32 or 33hz, Fi website says that 33hz has the most output for daily. Also, I agree with "Julian", for the xB have the woofers up, with the port facing the rear.

Yes that is my real name.

I was putting it in quotes only to emphasize that I agreed with your statement, was not questioning your name.

Throw 3krms on those suckas make them scream!

The BL line is for systems up to 2 Kw/woofer, then an upgrade to the BTL is needed.

^yep. Using 3k for daily on a bl is plain stupid.

definitely haha, im going to be puttin 1500 to mine which is at the top of what these suckers can handle daily which is actually quite impressive , but i also have a fully loaded BL

Im glad that M5 brought up the power difference you will not be able to hear a difference between the two

So, I will probably still get the 2400 anyways just so I can swang my dick saying I have 1200 going into each instead of 1050 when people ask me how much power am I using for them haha esp since not very many of my friends know too much about this stuff. If I get the xB, I will be doing subs up port back. If I do tC, I will have subs back and port back, or maybe even sub up port back. Any advice on the tC option? Would anyone have an idea of which vehicle these would sound better in? I am referring to the least amount of car rattle bc my last car was a 09 camry and there was a lot of rattling bc the entire rear deck was plastic. The tC's cargo area is not sealed away from the cabin so i figure there wont be too much rattle anyways. And also, with the battery, should I leave my stock batt in the front and put the new batt (prob deka or powermaster; although, I am unsure of which model of theirs to get) in the back near the amp?? And, like I said, I will be putting a 220 amp alt in.

Deadening will help with the rattle, I'd suggest hitting up don at www.sounddeadenershowdown.com he'll be able to point you in the right direction.

I would honestly suggest subs up port firing towards the rear.. But honestly you MAY have to Fold the seats down to get the required space for the box, but I haven't looked into the specs of the tcs dimensions in some time .

The cargo area of the tC has 12.8 cu ft. I also looked at one earlier today and it seemed to have enough room. My last box was about 36in long, 18in front to back and 15in tall for my RE SX 12's. I'm not sure what the box was tuned to as I bought it already built from the shop down the street from my house. The box for the BL's will be custom built to Fi's recs (33Hz and somewhere between 1.8-2.5 cu ft but I dont know how big I should get it built...and dont really know how to decide either lol and what about the batt? would I be ok with leaving the stock batt in front and upgraded batt in back near amp? And I dont even know what model batt to choose lol I plan on having this setup for a while so I wanna make it be optimal.

Deadening will help with the rattle, I'd suggest hitting up don at www.sounddeadenershowdown.com he'll be able to point you in the right direction.

I would honestly suggest subs up port firing towards the rear.. But honestly you MAY have to Fold the seats down to get the required space for the box, but I haven't looked into the specs of the tcs dimensions in some time .

i dont mean to thread jack but what way would you recommend the sub be fired and the port in a gto