I haven't had a system in my dd for a few years now. I drive nearly 1,000 miles a week so I am in need of something. I normally have a lot of junk I need for work so this install will save as much space as possible. Through out the build I will show step by step some of the techniques I learn over the years.

Factoy interior, hopefully the end result will look like this as much as possible.

spare tire location under false floor

false floor removed

farm6.static.flickr.com/5267/5666965605_2a85e9c267_m.jpg

tire cover removed. tire will remain remember this is a daily driver. jack and such will go in side pockets by the tire well

the sub

the sub will go somewhere in this location

initial masking

tire reinstalled

Will be watching this closely! Should be interesting

First claen all surfaces to be masked with alcahol to remove dirt and grease. I normally use a better tape because this cheap stuff will leave glue residue when it heats from the resin. However I am not concearned being it's my vehicle.

mask off all areas

be sure to get in all the little nooks. This will make the enclosure more rigid

I use heavy painter's masking paper instead of cardboard because it is easier to use.

mask off all corners making sure they all have a nice smooth slope

I'm tuned in for this. Need to continue to learn as much as possible about fiberglassing. Your explanations thus far go far to help understand the steps and processes.

I'm tuned in for this. Need to continue to learn as much as possible about fiberglassing. Your explanations thus far go far to help understand the steps and processes.

X2 would would you recommend as high quality tape that wont leave residue?

I'll be watching this too. Looks almost exactly like what I need to do.

nice work so far...

I'm all ears, oh wait I guess that will be eyes. Love seeing a stealth type install and overcoming the challenges of not taking up un-needed space.

I normally ude 3m's green autobody tape. It is the best I have used. But I'm not spending $25 a roll when I ca just clean the goo off afterwards.

I will be going 1.8 cubes net and the cavity came to 1.875 cubic feet. I'll post how I got that a little later.

Added another layer of tape over everything to make sure everything is strong and sealed.

Added a temporary back wall. This is just so I can calculate the volume of the cavity and will be removed.

I take a normal square box then mark inches on the inside

I filled the cavity with dog food because I have plenty of it. Anything will work kitty litter, sand, ect.

Then poured the dogfood into the box.

The dog food went to the 10 inch maker inside the box.

So I take the 10" x 18" depth x 18'' width = 3240 cubic inches = 1.875 cubic feet. So now I have a base line of volume inside the cavity and I now I have to figure port and driver displacement to determine how much higher I need to make the enclosure.

Great dog food man!

love seeing your work, i know it's an eye opener for me

Keep the how-to coming!

Love the dog food idea.

Dog food is easier to clean up then sand, good thinking.

Now that I figured the area inside the cavity I figured out how much higher I needed to make the enclosure to get my net 1.8 cubic feet. So I layed out my port which will tune the enclosure to 27 hertz.

This is the internal deminsions I will use to make a fiberglass port.

I then finished my outline of the enclosure. The finished fiberglass port will be fitted into it later.

I almost ready to start laying some glass but it's been a long time since I've done any fiberglass work so I gotta order some supplies. I have been ordering from US Composites for about nine years. They have great customer service and some of the best prices. The only thing I do not purchase from them is resin because on 5 gallon pails a hazmat charge is applied on shipping which makes it too expensive so I but that locally.

Typical list follows:

1.5 fiberglass mat. never use woven cloth It is very had to get it to laminate correctly to itself on odd shapes unles it it is vaccumed.

http://uscomposites.com/mat.html

resin. Typical polyester layup resin. You can usually tell how good a resin is by the color. It should be dark blue to green in color. Don't use the Bondo brand at home depot it is junk.

http://uscomposites.com/polyesters.html

MEKP (hardener) typically you want to use 1.25- 1.5 percent by volume MEKP per resin

http://uscomposites.com/solvents.html

Pigment. I dye my resin black so I can see the air bubbles in the lay-up. It makes them much easier to see when working them out.

http://uscomposites.com/pigments.html

fiberglass roller to roll out air bubbles. I like a large 3/4 to one inch roller.

http://uscomposites.com/fgrollers.html

chip brushes to lay resin onto matt

http://uscomposites.com/brushes.html

Cab-o-Sil I mix this filler with resin and use it as a glue and a fairing compound. It also works well in tight crevases in molds.

http://uscomposites.com/fillers.html

Part All. I spray three coats on all my molds and taped areas. When using this the hardened mold will pot right out.

http://uscomposites.com/moldrelease.html

Duratec. I normally use this when I am painting or wrapping in vinyl. It makes life much easier when trying to get panels as smooth as possible.

http://uscomposites.com/polyprod.html

a little tape and waxed paper will be needed when doing the lay-up. Once I get all my supplies in I'll show the proper way to hand lay-up firberglass.

Nice list, that will be helpful for sure!

Nice tips on the shopping list and an explanation on your usage of the products recommended!

Sweet write up, I am always looking for new ideas when doing fiberlassing.

Bigger pictures would be better if you can.

updates??

As usual plans change and I got a box and 15,000 watts going in on one of my divine 15's

haha. thats a hell of a change!

Only 15k?