I was installing a simple Hu in a 2006 Sonata and the four screws that hold the oem radio in WILL NOT turn. I can usually do it with my trusty screwdriver but no luck.

So I got out our 14.4v Black & Decker with a mostly charged battery and it couldn't turn them either. My dad says I need to drill them out but I'm not sure how to to that. They're semi-stripped now too so yeah. Any help would be appreciated.

some pics of the screws would certainly help

if you can get a vice grip to lock tightly on the screw head it may be able to turn. Sometimes the manufacturer uses loctite to bond the threads.

In trems of drilling, start with a resonably small drill bit drilling straight through the screw, then increase the size of the bit until the screw becomes loose, be careful not to break the bit or damage the threraded portion on the vehicle frame.

Edited December 28, 201113 yr by StreetLegal

Damn...the car JUST left.

But they were just simple Phillips head screws.

Edited December 28, 201113 yr by An-i-no

Google how to drill out screws.

I usually have good luck with these for stripped screws

http://www.amazon.com/Alden-8530P-Grabit-Damaged-Remover/dp/B000ETLK7O

Drilling out screws is a relatively simple process... If you don't have access to a tap, make sure you go slow, and as mentioned before start with the smallest drill bit, stepping your way up, eventually you will what appears to be a hole, you will have to get the other material out of the threaded hole.

If you mess up, don't fret. Grab a few self tapping screws, (the smallest one bigger than the hole) and use them to mount the new head unit.

Google how to drill out screws.

Just did, I have a basic understanding now.

I usually have good luck with these for stripped screws

http://www.amazon.com/Alden-8530P-Grabit-Damaged-Remover/dp/B000ETLK7O

Kinda don't wanna spend money but ill keep that in mind

If you couldn't remove the screws by hand, those cheap removers won't work.

Drill the heads off, remove the radio, then take some vice grips and remove the remaining material from the other side. Don't worry about the need for a drill or tap. You will either have a speed nut or a course thread screw into plastic. It's probably the latter as many times when they install them on the assembly line, the friction caused by the screws threading melts the plastic and you end up with the issue you have here.

If you couldn't remove the screws by hand, those cheap removers won't work.

Drill the heads off, remove the radio, then take some vice grips and remove the remaining material from the other side. Don't worry about the need for a drill or tap. You will either have a speed nut or a course thread screw into plastic. It's probably the latter as many times when they install them on the assembly line, the friction caused by the screws threading melts the plastic and you end up with the issue you have here.

Dammit. Sounds like a ton of work.

It's simple if you have the proper tools. Contrary to what others have stated, I would start with a larger bit just to get it centered in the screw. Once you notice it is, switch to the small bit about 1/8", then move up to a 3/16, then 1/4. The key is to pop the head off, of course, if it's just screwing blind into plastic, this is not going to help. You will need to extract the screw. Next time you do this, always try to tighten the screw first, then back out. It helps to relieve some pressure on the screw head. Remember, the metal twists and distorts once you begin to torque it, so it will spring back and cause surface tension and binding, so tightening first aids in breaking the tension. . .

Some times.

It's simple if you have the proper tools. Contrary to what others have stated, I would start with a larger bit just to get it centered in the screw. Once you notice it is, switch to the small bit about 1/8", then move up to a 3/16, then 1/4. The key is to pop the head off, of course, if it's just screwing blind into plastic, this is not going to help. You will need to extract the screw. Next time you do this, always try to tighten the screw first, then back out. It helps to relieve some pressure on the screw head. Remember, the metal twists and distorts once you begin to torque it, so it will spring back and cause surface tension and binding, so tightening first aids in breaking the tension. . .

Some times.

Hmm...ill reread this tomorrow when the screw is right in front of me.

So does the head just pop off after you drill a certain amount? Sorry I'm having a hard time picturing it

If you couldn't remove the screws by hand, those cheap removers won't work.

Drill the heads off, remove the radio, then take some vice grips and remove the remaining material from the other side. Don't worry about the need for a drill or tap. You will either have a speed nut or a course thread screw into plastic. It's probably the latter as many times when they install them on the assembly line, the friction caused by the screws threading melts the plastic and you end up with the issue you have here.

Best bet right here, that's what we do at work. We drill the heads off and just remove it completely. You could easily set a Rivnut in place of where the old screw was.

So now all the screws are completely stripped. The extractors failed miserably and we have made no progress

We tried to get them started with a drill bit, no beans. Drilled the head flat, no beans. Tried the extractors as a last ditch efforts and no beans. We're trying to get behind them and see if we can turn them with vicegrips.

It's like they're rivets with Phillips heads almost. It's ridiculous.

Edited December 31, 201113 yr by An-i-no

Could you post a photo?

I use an impact driver similar to this made by Klein. A good whack with a brass mallet produces about 300 ft/lb of torque to loosen the screws. You have to use tempered bit tips though because it'll snap a regular but. Most imports use a loc tight material.

I use an impact driver similar to this made by Klein. A good whack with a brass mallet produces about 300 ft/lb of torque to loosen the screws. You have to use tempered bit tips though because it'll snap a regular but. Most imports use a loc tight material.

Do NOT use that on a plastic dash. Don't ask me how I know either. They are GREAT when removing fasteners from dissimilar metals!

Yes, for the noobs do NOT use that on plastic. I would have ASSumed the radio chassis would be mounted to metal.