Wanting to do my next box with birch, what exactly am I going to need to look for when buying it.

Thanks

Probably Birch

the piece with no chips or damage to it..... make sure its flat..... but no just as if you would mdf but cool thing is you dont need to predrill and its stronger and lighter. You got this

Probably Birch

X2

I didnt know if there was some like special ply or somthing I needed to look for.

more plys/plies = stronger... 13 ply is what I used for my box this year. Its stronger, much more durable, and lighter than MDF. Also, not as much dust when cutting. Just make sure that when you do cut birch, use new bits.. reason being is that it chips quite easily if you use a dull bit.

cool, thanks guys

more plys/plies = stronger... 13 ply is what I used for my box this year. Its stronger, much more durable, and lighter than MDF. Also, not as much dust when cutting. Just make sure that when you do cut birch, use new bits.. reason being is that it chips quite easily if you use a dull bit.

so 13 ply is a default or something you have to look for bass???

more plys/plies = stronger... 13 ply is what I used for my box this year. Its stronger, much more durable, and lighter than MDF. Also, not as much dust when cutting. Just make sure that when you do cut birch, use new bits.. reason being is that it chips quite easily if you use a dull bit.

so 13 ply is a default or something you have to look for bass???

Not really 9-13 ply will work

Just the numbers of wood/layers

But know birch is not as acoustically dense as MDF (hence the weight difference)

If you have a lumbar yard locally I would look for Trupan Light or MDF light which is considerably lighter than regular MDF and not as rough on your tools.

more plys/plies = stronger... 13 ply is what I used for my box this year. Its stronger, much more durable, and lighter than MDF. Also, not as much dust when cutting. Just make sure that when you do cut birch, use new bits.. reason being is that it chips quite easily if you use a dull bit.

so 13 ply is a default or something you have to look for bass???

Not really 9-13 ply will work

Just the numbers of wood/layers

But know birch is not as acoustically dense as MDF (hence the weight difference)

If you have a lumbar yard locally I would look for Trupan Light or MDF light which is considerably lighter than regular MDF and not as rough on your tools.

I remember the thread you had about trupan.. I never looked into it since I had someone build the last enclosure for me...

your old thread:

http://www.soundsolutionsaudio.com/forum/topic/32156-trupan-light/

more plys/plies = stronger... 13 ply is what I used for my box this year. Its stronger, much more durable, and lighter than MDF. Also, not as much dust when cutting. Just make sure that when you do cut birch, use new bits.. reason being is that it chips quite easily if you use a dull bit.

so 13 ply is a default or something you have to look for bass???

Not really 9-13 ply will work

Just the numbers of wood/layers

But know birch is not as acoustically dense as MDF (hence the weight difference)

If you have a lumbar yard locally I would look for Trupan Light or MDF light which is considerably lighter than regular MDF and not as rough on your tools.

I remember the thread you had about trupan.. I never looked into it since I had someone build the last enclosure for me...

your old thread:

http://www.soundsolu...6-trupan-light/

Maaan that's old!

Yeah, I haven't got to use Trupan yet, but I just normally get MDF... If you are seriously worried about weight Trupan IMO is the best alternative.

Birch is good and all but it is REALLY prone to splitting.

I would suggest going to a lumbar yard.. stuff is super cheap.. I know I can get 1" MDF for maybe 15-25 for a 4x8 sheet of MDF.

Birch splitting? As in how?

I only use birch, the crap they sell at Lowes that's not void free and the only problem it has is it's veneer coming off.

MDf splits as much as a banana split compared to birch.

Birch splitting? As in how?

I only use birch, the crap they sell at Lowes that's not void free and the only problem it has is it's veneer coming off.

MDf splits as much as a banana split compared to birch.

That's what I meant by splitting, especially around the hole for the sub.

You mean the veneer then?

There is a trick to prevent that but too time consuming.

If you lay a run of tape at the edge of every cut, it will prevent the veneer from chipping away... but honestly, doing that takes more time than cutting all the pieces for a box.

i have asked a couple lumber yards if they carry or could order trupan or mdf light....they just look at me like im retarted

the piece with no chips or damage to it..... make sure its flat..... but no just as if you would mdf but cool thing is you dont need to predrill and its stronger and lighter. You got this

Predrill into any wood when useing coarse screws.

i have asked a couple lumber yards if they carry or could order trupan or mdf light....they just look at me like im retarted

Usually if they don't know what Trupan is i always just use MDF light interchangeably

Birch splitting? As in how?

I only use birch, the crap they sell at Lowes that's not void free and the only problem it has is it's veneer coming off.

MDf splits as much as a banana split compared to birch.

Where do you buy your birch?

When people say use birch, they mean baltic birch. It is 13 ply and void free - and cost about $70 a sheet. The birch part doesn't matter. It is just what veneer is used. I'm cheap so I use the 9 ply A/C plywood at Home Depot. Way better than MDF. It is about $45 a sheet. Mdf is $32

Marine grade plywood = Baltic Birch = 13 ply void free, FWIW

Lowes and Home Depot don't stock this around me.

I went to Menards and got some 11 ply for ~$40.00 a sheet.

I'll never go back to mdf.