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Featured Replies

Actually I wish I could have made the port larger. Only reason I didn't was because of space. The enclosure is 4.2cuft NET tuned to 32hz and is 17" square by 42" long. Making it any larger was really just out of the question. I'm sure that if it were me I wouldn't be using a single 6" aero, it's just not enough port area alone. A pair of them would probably suffice though ideally it should be more.

Oh, ok - thats good to know. Yeah, i have plenty of trunk space (gmc yukon) however i want to take up the least amount possible cause i still have to be able to carry stuff. On the side of my box that i can port, i can fit up to 3 aeroports or one slot port. Because of the advice ive received on here, im leaning towards a large slot port now...

Btw, i cant thank all who have replied enough! as a new member, i didnt know if anyone would care but now i feel really welcome!

If you want to conserve space I would suggest going with a precision port. If you don't mind taking up the room a slot port will work just fine as well.

  • Author

Ok, so as of now i think i will use one 6 inch aeroport. here is a pic of the box outline - the square hole on the front is for plexiglass and the one on the side for the port.

http://s1157.photobu...nt=75c4a0c3.png

yes i know the cutout for the port looks huge... its just cause the port is flared to 9 inchs at end

Edited by Stihlman9

looks like a fun plan

Do you plan to put the plexi flushed in? Or more recessed looking?

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@prorabbit Im thinking a little recessed. Definitely using 3/4in plexi. If i use 3/4in mdf, i'll route a 1/4in step on the back side and use a wood frame with screws on back side to "clamp" the plexi in, along with glue, of course. If i use 1in mdf, i think i'll make my routed edge 1/2in deep. Im open to any and all ideas though as im sure ya'll have more experience than me!

Edited by Stihlman9

  • Author

Im looking at Altons picture and it looks like his plexi is recessed, and i like that. Alton, do you have any tips on securing the plexi after building yours?

Port area is not based on enclosure size, but by the drivers used as well as the goals in mind. A pair would be to much and would be far to long for most to every consider. For a couple of FI's I have done single 6" ports in the past and they work just fine, sound great and get plenty loud for daily and/or SPL. The enclosure I had pictured actually ended up with a pair of OA 12s and was doing very very well for a trunk car.

Also, you have to consider the room available and how everything works together in the application.

I like your enclosure though, that read looks real nice.

I didn't correlate the calculation of the port area to enclosure size, that's not what I meant by that statement. We both know the so called "rule of thumb" if calculating XX.xx sqin of port area per cuft of enclosure size is not the right way to calculate port area. As you know, the more port area you have the longer the port has to be to maintain the same tuning. That causes the port to rob more displacement inside the enclosure causing the enclosure to have to be larger to maintain the correct NET volume. That's what I meant about the size and not going any larger. I used the maximum dimensions I was willing to give up and that was the maximum amount of port area I could utilize and still maintain my preferred 4.2cuft of net volume, 32hz tuning and stay within my limits.

I do agree, using less than the ideal port area can and does still yield very usable results, and thanx on the enclosure, tho it's Chevy Orange, not red. :P lol

Im thinking a little recessed. Definitely using 3/4in plexi. If i use 3/4in mdf, i'll route a 1/4in step on the back side and use a wood frame with screws on back side to "clamp" the plexi in, along with glue, of course. If i use 1in mdf, i think i'll make my routed edge 1/2in deep. Im open to any and all ideas though as im sure ya'll have more experience than me!

Im looking at Altons picture and it looks like his plexi is recessed, and i like that. Alton, do you have any tips on securing the plexi after building yours?

Pretty much exactly what you're thinking is how I did it. I cut out a frame that was 1.5" larger than the 12x24 window. Used my router to recess a 3/8" wide and deep lip into the frame and the plexi itself. Then sealed the hell out of it with silicone and glued it to the front panel of the enclosure. The window on the front panel of the enclosure is an inch smaller than the window for a good sealing overlap. It's been a successful way of doing it so far. I was going for and like the look of the deep recess to the plexi window. The plexi sandwiched perfectly between the frame and the enclosure front and hasn't had any sealing problems yet and hopefully never will.

  • Author

Im thinking a little recessed. Definitely using 3/4in plexi. If i use 3/4in mdf, i'll route a 1/4in step on the back side and use a wood frame with screws on back side to "clamp" the plexi in, along with glue, of course. If i use 1in mdf, i think i'll make my routed edge 1/2in deep. Im open to any and all ideas though as im sure ya'll have more experience than me!

Im looking at Altons picture and it looks like his plexi is recessed, and i like that. Alton, do you have any tips on securing the plexi after building yours?

Pretty much exactly what you're thinking is how I did it. I cut out a frame that was 1.5" larger than the 12x24 window. Used my router to recess a 3/8" wide and deep lip into the frame and the plexi itself. Then sealed the hell out of it with silicone and glued it to the front panel of the enclosure. The window on the front panel of the enclosure is an inch smaller than the window for a good sealing overlap. It's been a successful way of doing it so far. I was going for and like the look of the deep recess to the plexi window. The plexi sandwiched perfectly between the frame and the enclosure front and hasn't had any sealing problems yet and hopefully never will.

Sweet! I think thats how i'll do it then. You may have already said this but what thickness plexi did you use? and have you had any vibration problems? Oh, and do you think 3/4in mdf will be enough or should i go 1in? I know 1in is more expensive and all that but if im gonna do this i want to do it right. If i go 3/4, im seriously considering double layering the baffle. Thanks!

3/4" plexi is what we both use actually. It is pretty strong and I don't think you will have an issue with those FI's and that plexi. 3/4" MDF is also what most use and works great.

You can double baffle the sub baffle, or you can get creative with window style bracing.

Port area is not based on enclosure size, but by the drivers used as well as the goals in mind. A pair would be to much and would be far to long for most to every consider. For a couple of FI's I have done single 6" ports in the past and they work just fine, sound great and get plenty loud for daily and/or SPL. The enclosure I had pictured actually ended up with a pair of OA 12s and was doing very very well for a trunk car.

Also, you have to consider the room available and how everything works together in the application.

I like your enclosure though, that read looks real nice.

I didn't correlate the calculation of the port area to enclosure size, that's not what I meant by that statement. We both know the so called "rule of thumb" if calculating XX.xx sqin of port area per cuft of enclosure size is not the right way to calculate port area. As you know, the more port area you have the longer the port has to be to maintain the same tuning. That causes the port to rob more displacement inside the enclosure causing the enclosure to have to be larger to maintain the correct NET volume. That's what I meant about the size and not going any larger. I used the maximum dimensions I was willing to give up and that was the maximum amount of port area I could utilize and still maintain my preferred 4.2cuft of net volume, 32hz tuning and stay within my limits.

I do agree, using less than the ideal port area can and does still yield very usable results, and thanx on the enclosure, tho it's Chevy Orange, not red. tongue.png lol

Red...Orange......meh...same color lol

I always get clients wanting us to do a gloss white for the use of the all mighty neon light... :(

They do look good at night..but a bit over played with how they go about it.

Edited by pro-rabbit

^^^^ Exactly. I should have double baffled the enclosure, but I didn't want to cuz I hate seeing the enclosures with a 3/4" thick outer port wall, 3/4" thick bottom port wall and the top of the port at 1.5"

The window style bracing is a nice way to brace the enclosure and can look pretty kewl when the windows in the bracing are special cutouts. The idea I had for my SA-8's enclosure I was going to use in my Jimmy before I changed out for the XCON was to put the double baffle inside the enclosure to alleviate the one thick port wall look. Never built that enclosure tho so I have no pics to explain what I'm talking about.

EDIT: You ninja'd a post in there, lol. The ^^^ and exactly were for your post on the plexi thickness and double baffle info.

  • Author

@Alton - Well i shouldnt have a problem with the double baffle affecting the port since ill be using an areoport, but i can definitely see how it could have messed up the very nice look of your box haha.

@Alton & prorabbit - Im surprised that yall like the 3/4mdf, not that im against it (hey the less $ the better haha) but ive read about people thinking that 1in and thicker are "soo" much better. Or is that just for huge woofers with huge power handling?

Btw, i cant believe i havent stated my goals yet...

1. I would rather have it sound great than be as loud as possible - my one Q now has already gotten my in some trouble (haha nbd) so i figure 2 Qs in any box will be plenty loud for me!

2. I listen to all kinds of music (hiphop to country to classic rock), so i dont need a "one note wonder"

AND just so yall know - this build is a few months off; i will have to wait till a break cause i just dont have time during school so please dont get anxious for pics - believe me, im more anxious than anybody haha! thats why im doing all this planning now - to keep my audio appetite appeased until i can build this sucker!

I have a wall with 4 15s and about 6krms and we use 3/4" mdf single layered with bracing(custom metal bracing), but it does have a double baffled front.

The reality of the thickness of the wood boils down to bracing and such. If bracing is done correctly you can use a single layer for far more then most think. While over kill never hurt anyway, it can hurt the pocket book.

3/4" is plenty for any typical daily use build. Sure, if a person was doing four 18's that weighed 90lbs a piece and 20,000 watts of amplifiers powering them then yeah 3/4" isn't going to cut it. A pair of 12's, 15's, etc. with respectable amounts of power, etc. will be just fine on 3/4" MDF or even marine grade plywood. It all depends on what a person's doing and their budget.

I agree, two Q's should be plenty loud enough for you. Mine are loud enough that they even have my wife turning them down on occasion which never happened before. She didn't know what too loud was until this build. I had to laugh pretty hard once after she came back from a run to town listening to some new song she got to listen to and said she had to turn it down because it was vibrating her eyelashes into her eyes making it impossible to drive. They're not as loud as many other subs and setups out there, but they're plenty enough for me. The best part is while they're getting loud like that they're still playing every note with the most authority and clarity that I've heard to date. Albeit a limited sampling compared to most of the guys into the hobby and on this forum.

I completely understand about taking time to get a build done. It took me well over a year to complete the van and I just got the amps in my Jimmy weekend before the last after purchasing them two years ago. It took almost two years to complete the doors on it and get the wiring ran for the amps. So believe me, I know all about taking time, but it's worth it in the end. There's also NOTHING wrong with figuring out exactly what direction you want to go and figure out exactly what your goals really are before starting on it. I for one would much rather it take way longer than I want it to but have it come out exactly like I want rather than to do it as quick as possible and then have to do it over again.

EDIT: I need to make it clear too that when I said I wish I had double baffled the box for the van, it wasn't for the added strength as it is a very solid enclosure, it was so that the subs would have been flushed in. It would look a fair bit cleaner that way is all.

  • Author

3/4" is plenty for any typical daily use build. Sure, if a person was doing four 18's that weighed 90lbs a piece and 20,000 watts of amplifiers powering them then yeah 3/4" isn't going to cut it. A pair of 12's, 15's, etc. with respectable amounts of power, etc. will be just fine on 3/4" MDF or even marine grade plywood. It all depends on what a person's doing and their budget.

I agree, two Q's should be plenty loud enough for you. Mine are loud enough that they even have my wife turning them down on occasion which never happened before. She didn't know what too loud was until this build. I had to laugh pretty hard once after she came back from a run to town listening to some new song she got to listen to and said she had to turn it down because it was vibrating her eyelashes into her eyes making it impossible to drive. They're not as loud as many other subs and setups out there, but they're plenty enough for me. The best part is while they're getting loud like that they're still playing every note with the most authority and clarity that I've heard to date. Albeit a limited sampling compared to most of the guys into the hobby and on this forum.

I completely understand about taking time to get a build done. It took me well over a year to complete the van and I just got the amps in my Jimmy weekend before the last after purchasing them two years ago. It took almost two years to complete the doors on it and get the wiring ran for the amps. So believe me, I know all about taking time, but it's worth it in the end. There's also NOTHING wrong with figuring out exactly what direction you want to go and figure out exactly what your goals really are before starting on it. I for one would much rather it take way longer than I want it to but have it come out exactly like I want rather than to do it as quick as possible and then have to do it over again.

EDIT: I need to make it clear too that when I said I wish I had double baffled the box for the van, it wasn't for the added strength as it is a very solid enclosure, it was so that the subs would have been flushed in. It would look a fair bit cleaner that way is all.

Wow, very nice reply man!! It means alot to a guy like me. Well, that certainly proves that 3/4 will be just fine - which im glad because, like prorabbit said, "over kill never hurt anyway, it can hurt the pocket book" haha ​Yep, im definitely an advocate of "do it right the 1st time" and im glad you are too :) I think, as of now, im gonna stick with 3/4in and double the baffle so i can flush mount. I cant think of much else to say other than that yall have answered all my questions with great detail and improved ideas i didnt even know i needed help with! I greatly appreciate all the advice, and i will be sure to post pics of the finished product when im done.

Btw... since im new here... when all the questions in a post like this have been answered, is it SOP to just stop or do we usually just keep talking about stuff till we run out of stuff to talk about? I'll be happy to discuss mids, highs, wire, or anything else yall want to haha!

Once the topic has been addressed some times the topic dies out..other times the conversations just keeps going until there is just nothing to talk about.

Feel free to post up any questions you have. This forum is pretty good about getting you the help you need and to get you pointed in the right direction the first time around. Not wait for you to make a mistake then help you correct it.

Let me amend my post real quick. lol

I just noticed this was in FI's section so if you have other questions I would start a new thread and carry on there. That way we don't clutter up the section to much.

  • Author

Ok, sounds good. Thanks again for all your advice!

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