That would be a D2 for sure....  Wire it up parallel and you'll be making waves...

Why can't you use the piece of wire that you already have that was going from one side to the other?  Should be plenty there to re-purpose it for connecting it in a parallel configuration. 

Use that short wire you have to go from the + on one side to the + on the other, and repeat for the -. Then hook the + on one to the + on the amp and likewise for -. That will do it. And since they left both strands there for the + to - that they did, just separate them and use them.

As shown in thx_elite's link above.

Edited March 12, 201411 yr by nigel

As far as moving things, it's because I want that "punch in the gut" or "hard to breath" effect.  I just want to feel the bass.  You know what I mean?  Maybe i'm talking with the wrong people, but I don't want a nice sounding low sub.  I want a banging sub tearing things up! xD

 

However, maybe I've completely set my expectations too high.

 

And if I would have a banging sub that you can't hear on the outside, great!  As of now, i'd at least want a sub i'm satisfied with on the inside.  Not left desiring more power and output.

 

Thanks for being patient with me, guys.  I got off work relatively early.  Give me a little time, and I should be back with some numbers once I figure this out and disconnect the sub.

 

One other thing I've been thinking of getting installed.  A volt meter.  So I can see what my sub is getting.  Any advice on those, for instance, it's hooked up at the amp, right?

Chest is midbass not sub. Hard to breath isn't going to happen with a single driver in particular in that box.

And yes, great indeed. Being quiet outside while however you want on the inside is perfect. No wasted energy.

...any reply on how you like your sub now?  We all put alot of thought and suggestion in

My apologies on the delay everyone!

 

Comparison video coming soon!

YES!! your problem IS SOLVED
Here is how it should be wired:

 

http://a248.e.akamai.net/pix.crutchfield.com/ca/learningcenter/car/subwoofer_wiring/1-DVC-2-ohm-mono-low-imp.jpg

 

ENJOY THE AWESOME DIFFERENCE!!

Yo, I was skeptical on the difference it'd make, but woah.  Instant holy excursion all of a sudden.  And stuff actually moves around in my car a little bit now.  Pretty epic!

 

One little wire made all the difference.

 

That would be a D2 for sure....  Wire it up parallel and you'll be making waves...

 

I've been at the beach....

 

waves...

Why can't you use the piece of wire that you already have that was going from one side to the other?  Should be plenty there to re-purpose it for connecting it in a parallel configuration. 

 

It was too short to work with for me.  BUT, no worries, I didn't even have to purchase any wire.

Use that short wire you have to go from the + on one side to the + on the other, and repeat for the -. Then hook the + on one to the + on the amp and likewise for -. That will do it. And since they left both strands there for the + to - that they did, just separate them and use them.

As shown in thx_elite's link above.

I just got another wire and hooked it up like his diagram. x)

 

Chest is midbass not sub. Hard to breath isn't going to happen with a single driver in particular in that box.

And yes, great indeed. Being quiet outside while however you want on the inside is perfect. No wasted energy.

 

Midbass, eh?  Good thing i'm starting to look into components...hehe

As for the box, true.

 

...any reply on how you like your sub now?  We all put alot of thought and suggestion in

Once again, my bad for the delay.  Thanks everyone!  It was a long journey, but we found the issue after all.  Most of this thread was over my head honestly. xD

But I learned how to use a dmm now and how to wire a sub.  Parallel and in series.  But I now know parallel is the way to go for a single d2.

 

probably hard to understand pic 1.

perhaps slightly easier to understand pic

 

Basically what ended up happening was the next day I went to best buy.  I went to service and told the guy how I took my sub in to get installed at a shop and they ended up wiring it to 4ohms and I want to wire it at 1ohm but I don't have any wire.  He asked me how much I need and I gestured about a half a foot of wire.  He's like "i'll go cut you off a piece" and he comes back with like a two foot piece of wire!  He's just like "do you know what gauge it was?" i'm all "no" he's all "was it thick?" i'm like  "i don't think so" then he goes " will this work?" and i'm all "that should do the trick!" and he's all "here you go, man.  You can have it" and I was on my merry way!  Went to home depot and bought some wire cutters along with a new dmm (the last one I believe was faulty).

 

In the home depot parking lot I ended up hooking up the sub with my girl.  I took the old wire that was running negative to positive and ran it negative to negative.  Then I took the new wire and joined it with the other positive and ran positive to positive.  The pics are hard to see, but I had one loop running along the bottom of the sub, then the new wire I put above the sub because it was so long.

Now there's some songs that actually sound beast where as before I was trying to turn up the bass the whole time somehow.  Wishing the bass control went up higher. xD

 

Anyways, that's about it, guys.  It appears my sub has reached its full potential!  Except, not as far as a "real" box goes.

Plus, I still owe you guys a comparison video.  So, this weekend (hopefully tomorrow) i'ma try and get some footage.  Then hopefully by Sunday night I can have it up for you guys to see the difference one little wire made with my sub.

 

Expect that soon.  I am working (Friday is my monday) the next four days so I will have to squeeze it in somewhere.

 

I really appreciate everyone who took the time to post in the thread.  You guys helped out a ton.  I hope the video will be accepted as a form of gratitude.  Seeing what you guys helped accomplish come to life.

 

EDIT:

 

And of course...I have to add in here.  Yes, my girl is very satisfied with the sub now.

Edited March 15, 201411 yr by TheGr33nNinja

And it mite be able to get a lot louder/sound better cause who knows how that enclosure was designed and built. If that place couldn't even wire a sub right lol

And it mite be able to get a lot louder/sound better cause who knows how that enclosure was designed and built. If that place couldn't even wire a sub right lol

Also don't forget there is a break in period of nearly a month on those subs before they reach their full potential of excursion and loudness, just go easy on her for a while and she'll start to open up for ya, and if your going to stick with a that particular sub look into getting the max sized volume within spec tuned to the lowest hz within spec

And it mite be able to get a lot louder/sound better cause who knows how that enclosure was designed and built. If that place couldn't even wire a sub right lol

Great point.  I have a feeling the sub box is poor. xD

They carpeted it up real nice, but  I think the sub needs a better home.

 

 

And it mite be able to get a lot louder/sound better cause who knows how that enclosure was designed and built. If that place couldn't even wire a sub right lol

Also don't forget there is a break in period of nearly a month on those subs before they reach their full potential of excursion and loudness, just go easy on her for a while and she'll start to open up for ya, and if your going to stick with a that particular sub look into getting the max sized volume within spec tuned to the lowest hz within spec

 

Snaps!  I took it easy for a week (even on 4ohms ) and thought that was good.

Anyways, dope, we shall see how she opens up in a month or so.

 

As for spec tuning, you'd really recommend the lowest hz?  That'd be 26hz, I believe!  I was actually contemplating getting it tuned higher like at 33.  Because from what I've read that should give more output, no?  I just hope I wouldn't lose a ton of lows. x)

As for the max volume spec I have to look into that.

 

Thanks again, everyone.  I'll post up my 10 for a final time soon. 

I have always tuned in the 30-34 hz range for my daily use enclosures. I personally found it to work well with my tastes. Generally with a larger lower tuned enclosure you get a flatter response over a larger range of frequencies, whereas a smaller but higher tune will give a much bigger spike or boost but to a very narrow range comparatively.

For example I am currently running a single 15 in 4 cubic feet net tuned to 33Hz. And I find it has great range for multiple genres of music.

32hz is always a good tuning for these heavy duty subs I believe, however, I don't know what the XCON wants in terms of space and tuning, or rather, what it desires for best performance. If 32hz fits right around the middle of reccomendation, I would surely choose 32hz and use the max internal volume INCLUDING SUBWOOFER AND PORT DISPLACEMENTS!!! listed under vented specs.  To quote Alton...

 

" As Brendan mentioned you have to factor in the volume of the sub itself to the volume of the enclosure.  So say you're going to build an enclosure that is 1.5cuft NET, be sure to add the .16cuft of driver displacement for a total box volume of 1.66cuft total." 

 

Your number's may be different but the same practice still applys.  Your subwoofer's website/manual will list it's volume, or someone on these forums will know specifically.

nice. I too have a 2012 Ford Focus. Don't know what Im gonna be running yet tho. Had a DC Level 3 15" in a 3.25cf enclosure tuned to 30hz.

 

Boy oh boy did it have my poor car shakin.

Either the sub or LOC is out of phase. You can tell by the way the sub is behaving. Although it would have been much easier to hear without music dubbed over the video.

1) turn radio up

2) turn bass knob up

3) unplug one side of the rca from the amp

4) look and listen to see if the sub moves more

if not the sub needs to be removed from the box (if you only have one wire coming out the box) and make sure the wires are not backwards on the sub.

DO NOT keep playing the sub before you check this out if it is out of phase you risk burning the coil up.

So I'd just like to post an update regarding this. I removed an input one by one and each time the sub got quieter and moved significantly less. I also played a song at 23hz and I could of sworn it's moving out of sync. It may be out of phaze, or maybe I'm just paranoid.

Not sure how to fix it if this is the case. It also sounds like a paper stuck in a bicycle wheel hitting the spokes as it hits bass. Pretty annoying. It also simulates a paper covering the port. But it's not the port. It's the sub. And I can hear it in the car when the bass is hitting. It's annoying. My girlfriend says it's not suppose to do that.

"I have always tuned in the 30-34 hz range for my daily use enclosures. I personally found it to work well with my tastes. Generally with a larger lower tuned enclosure you get a flatter response over a larger range of frequencies, whereas a smaller but higher tune will give a much bigger spike or boost but to a very narrow range comparatively.

For example I am currently running a single 15 in 4 cubic feet net tuned to 33Hz. And I find it has great range for multiple genres of music."

So it would appear low 30's is a good tuning range. I'm thinking if I get a new box I'll bump it up in hz in a bigger enclosure. 32 or 33. Probably 33.

"32hz is always a good tuning for these heavy duty subs I believe, however, I don't know what the XCON wants in terms of space and tuning, or rather, what it desires for best performance. If 32hz fits right around the middle of reccomendation, I would surely choose 32hz and use the max internal volume INCLUDING SUBWOOFER AND PORT DISPLACEMENTS!!! listed under vented specs. To quote Alton...

" As Brendan mentioned you have to factor in the volume of the sub itself to the volume of the enclosure. So say you're going to build an enclosure that is 1.5cuft NET, be sure to add the .16cuft of driver displacement for a total box volume of 1.66cuft total."

Your number's may be different but the same practice still applys. Your subwoofer's website/manual will list it's volume, or someone on these forums will know specifically."

Thats cool, man. I think the shop I went to failed miserably. xD

I understand what you mean about net volume. I believe the xcon is recommended to be tuned at 26-33 hz. So 30 would be in the middle if thats what we're going by to tune it.

"nice. I too have a 2012 Ford Focus. Don't know what Im gonna be running yet tho. Had a DC Level 3 15" in a 3.25cf enclosure tuned to 30hz.

Boy oh boy did it have my poor car shakin."

Do you have any pictures, bro? My girl and I would like to see how you managed that!

Replying through my phone. No multi quote sucks.

Either the sub or LOC is out of phase. You can tell by the way the sub is behaving. Although it would have been much easier to hear without music dubbed over the video.

1) turn radio up

2) turn bass knob up

3) unplug one side of the rca from the amp

4) look and listen to see if the sub moves more

if not the sub needs to be removed from the box (if you only have one wire coming out the box) and make sure the wires are not backwards on the sub.

DO NOT keep playing the sub before you check this out if it is out of phase you risk burning the coil up.

So I'd just like to post an update regarding this. I removed an input one by one and each time the sub got quieter and moved significantly less. I also played a song at 23hz and I could of sworn it's moving out of sync. It may be out of phaze, or maybe I'm just paranoid.

Not sure how to fix it if this is the case. It also sounds like a paper stuck in a bicycle wheel hitting the spokes as it hits bass. Pretty annoying. It also simulates a paper covering the port. But it's not the port. It's the sub. And I can hear it in the car when the bass is hitting. It's annoying. My girlfriend says it's not suppose to do that.

You're playing below tuning. If the port is only 32hz 23hz should be almost nonexistent. Ssf needs to be set a little higher.

most prefab enclosures made by local shop vendors are too small to begin with and also don't take into consideration port and woofer displacement and are tuned around 40hz...23hz is faaar below that and if you have an ssf filter adjustment on your amp it needs to be set at or right around 36-37hz untill you get your box you want that better suits your good woofer, be carefull what your doing at this point, any odd noise out of the sub could be damaging to it. And that is a very nice woofer. 

Do you have any pictures, bro? My girl and I would like to see how you managed that!

Replying through my phone. No multi quote sucks.

 

Hard drive recently failed on me so I lost all my pictures. Good thing for YouTube tho. Here's a little video

 

Edited March 16, 201411 yr by FocusOn20s

Puscifer:"You're playing below tuning. If the port is only 32hz 23hz should be almost nonexistent. Ssf needs to be set a little higher."

Thanks! I looked up a video on how to set it using a DDM. If I can figure it out, I think that way should be pretty simple.

"most prefab enclosures made by local shop vendors are too small to begin with and also don't take into consideration port and woofer displacement and are tuned around 40hz...23hz is faaar below that and if you have an ssf filter adjustment on your amp it needs to be set at or right around 36-37hz untill you get your box you want that better suits your good woofer, be carefull what your doing at this point, any odd noise out of the sub could be damaging to it. And that is a very nice woofer. "

Thanks, man. You're a great help! I want to set that and my lpf using my new dmm. I'm also thinking of building my own box. If I look up what tools I'll need and materials, I'm sure I could dedicate a weekend to it. Give my girl and I a little project that we both can participate in. Gotta get this sub going in a worthy box!

Also...not to disappoint anyone, or you, THX, but I kind of already did damage the sub. It was a total accident.

EDIT:

The video is coming up as private on my phone. Thats weird. I can't change it to anything on my phone, but when I get home I'll change it for you guys. Unfortunate.

Edited March 17, 201411 yr by TheGr33nNinja

Do you have any pictures, bro? My girl and I would like to see how you managed that!

Replying through my phone. No multi quote sucks.

Hard drive recently failed on me so I lost all my pictures. Good thing for YouTube tho. Here's a little video

http://youtu.be/OxZybfEDKgo

Right on, dude! Hows the sub firing up work out for you? I'm debating in keeping it firing backwards. Although, it hits pretty good right now.

Sweet video. I can't fit a box as big as that because of my battery in the back, but I can work something bigger in the back.

Puscifer:"You're playing below tuning. If the port is only 32hz 23hz should be almost nonexistent. Ssf needs to be set a little higher."

Thanks! I looked up a video on how to set it using a DDM. If I can figure it out, I think that way should be pretty simple.

"most prefab enclosures made by local shop vendors are too small to begin with and also don't take into consideration port and woofer displacement and are tuned around 40hz...23hz is faaar below that and if you have an ssf filter adjustment on your amp it needs to be set at or right around 36-37hz untill you get your box you want that better suits your good woofer, be carefull what your doing at this point, any odd noise out of the sub could be damaging to it. And that is a very nice woofer. "

Thanks, man. You're a great help! I want to set that and my lpf using my new dmm. I'm also thinking of building my own box. If I look up what tools I'll need and materials, I'm sure I could dedicate a weekend to it. Give my girl and I a little project that we both can participate in. Gotta get this sub going in a worthy box!

Also...not to disappoint anyone, or you, THX, but I kind of already did damage the sub. It was a total accident.

EDIT:

The video is coming up as private on my phone. Thats weird. I can't change it to anything on my phone, but when I get home I'll change it for you guys. Unfortunate.

AAHH, bummer maaaan!!!  It's all good though most of us have damaged more than just one woofer!  Just know this the next time around...You MOST CERTAINLY can fit a 12" with spec volume and I would tune it too 32hz depending on the sub of course, I have a WAAY smaller trunk opening and am using a 12" woofer and box.

Here is the box I chose for my fully pimped out Fi BL12":

 

http://www.fatboxusa.com/products/1-mdf-12-fi-audio-btl-subwoofer-sub-enclosure-box.html

 

I can tell you want more bass than that 10 can safely produce anyways   Also that box will work with all kinds of subs as long as their cutout diameter is 11.124" and their demanding specs fall with in this enclosures specs!   ...not that this expensively built and shipped enclosure needs purchased specifically but all in all i think it is a great design and it's built like a tank!

Edited March 17, 201411 yr by THX_Elite