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Showing content with the highest reputation on 12/22/2009 in all areas

  1. 1 point
    I'd be terrified to be your speakers....anyway on a serious note. I have my Icon sealed and i like it very much. All i listen to is rock so it has a very nice tight sound. Transient response is one of the best i've seen. For that listening environment i couldn't ask for more. I'm sure it's the same with the Xcon
  2. 1 point
    Do you know anything about our situation other than the fact that I choose not to do business with companies he has close ties with? But yet you're forming an opinion on it and using retarded metaphors to further prove how immature YOU are! The guy that boycotts audio brands that are used by a famous car audio installer is saying I'm immature.
  3. 1 point
    Okay guys, built a box over the weekend. 5.95cf after drivers and plenty of bracing/double baffle front. I did take some pics, but have not uploaded them. I doubt anyone would care to see them since it's unfinished and ugly at the moment. lol Opinion: These things move a ton of air sealed up and I am SHOCKED at how loud they can get. The bass is solid as a rock. Very tight and punchy and has more authority than they did ported. It is night and day on some songs. Very pleased. Now to be fair, they were louder ported (little over 6cf tuned to 34), but not by much. Maybe on a mic, but only slightly to the ear. Unless you are seeking every last DB for competition purposes, I would suggest everyone at least try them out sealed first. These are not the same old chitty sealed subs of yesterday. Anyone limited by space to build a proper ported enclosure would love this woofer sealed up. I love it sealed up and I drive a Yukon XL. Once I can find time to install my new front stage (Dynaudio 362) I will hopefully be able to lower the crossover and let the 8" mid bass take over. The thought of having actual bass in my front doors makes me horny. I hope I get a nice warm weekend with no rain very soon. I did manage to bottom them out while banging on them very hard, so I need to make sure I have no leaks and make sure I am not clipping my signal to them. Any quick tips to test for air leaks? I was skeptical as hell about sealing them, but overall I am very pleased and would do it all over again tomorrow. Does the future hold an 8cf ported box tuned a little lower?? Maybe, but I am not in a hurry to make that change right now. They sound too good.
  4. 1 point
    Any sub sonic filter that has a frequency from 25Hz to 30hz will work fine.
  5. 1 point
    More goodies Test fir with a spare type r Finally clean Ah that Fresh coil smell No more wire brushes without taping off the pole piece! (look right in the middle) Cleaner Amps + batteries installed Vid of it getting off
  6. 1 point
    I have heard Q and w7s. Both are quality built speakers and both do very well as a substage. However, the Q is going to save you money. And before people go JL bashing, JL is expensive for a reason. R&D and custom tooling. If you really liked the w6, try to hear some w6v2s. Those will be just as good as your w6s when talking about a quality substage and they can get loud too. I doubt these will get nearly as loud as a Q will while retaining good response, but just a random thought. As far as Rainbow goes, overpriced from what I've seen. You will hear it over and over here, the install is more important than the product you're using.
  7. 1 point
    can anyone just grow a pair and answer my question without saying "its all in the install"? cuz i mean you could say that to literaly any situation. you could put a ported 18 in like a 1 cubic foot ported box and it probably wouldnt be as loud as a 12 in a 5 cubic foot box. im not gonna hold anyone to their answer. my friend just asked me which would be louder, so i figured id post something up on here and ask some more experienced people. someone just give me their best estimated answer. it doesnt matter if your wrong. just give me your best opinion.
  8. 1 point
    alright, so i've seen this sub on youtube, did alot of research on it, and seemed like it was the best sub for me, like my username says, i'm an sq freak, i'll take sq over bass any day,but i love both so i'm getting 2 monoblocks, first let me say this sub looks amazing! & this sub is massive! its as big as the hubcaps on my car! anyways not to get off topic or anything, so i have the new JVC Bongiovi Accoustics Headunit, the thing is amazing, and has the best sound quality i've ever experienced! i am possibly getting a JL Audio 1000w monoblock amp, and a Hifonics Brutus 1600 monoblock amp, should i use just the JL to power it?, or use both amps and get a capacitor? i was also curious about the best amount of hertz for it to be tuned to for the best sq, i'm kinda new to this, so forgive me if my sub slang isnt so great-lol, should i get a ported or seal box? its a dual 1 ohm with bp power option, and did i mention i have a 1999 Izuzu Oasis van, so room isn't a problem. Thanks for looking, i hope to get some help on this, i will gladly appreciate it, thanks.
  9. 1 point
    To whoever asked why not just replace: When you run wires in parallel (a.k.a. Bi-Wirring) it will take the resistance of both wires and half it. Therefore if wire 1 can carry 100 amps and wire 2 can carry 300, you now have 400A capacity. It never HURTS to run too much wire, only not enough will hurt you. As to grounding to the chassis...There was an EXTENSIVE study done a while ago on some forum, it concluded that while some better and some a bit worse, most cars chassis when you ground to it can support between the average 4ga braided ("car audio") power and 2ga briaded wire. If you plan on running 2ga or above for power wire, I would suggest running a ground to the chassis and another directly to the battery. This would be your best bet and would support future upgrades more easily (ex. if you want to put an extra battery in your trunk with an extra amp)...
  10. 0 points
    You know what, that sounds like a damn good idea! Ah, now I see where the miscommunication came into play. No, I have not tested the amp to see what it's putting out, system has been down for the past couple months. I'll go about doing that once I get her back up and running, which will hopefully be the beginning of January. Very good point about the box, I just wish I knew how to go about finding out the response of a given box. Does Bass Box Pro v.6 do that? Do you think I could bother you to help me figure out what some good designs are as far as response once I figure out out to map it out and do some designs in it? I'm going to do a single 2512 for the time being, until I can upgrade my electrical to sufficiently run 2400rms, so I was going to build the box to DD's suggested specs of 1.75cubes and tuned between 36-38Hz. When I get the pair I was just going to double that, so 3.5 cubes. I guess I will need to get my hands on a Mechman Rhino series alt before I can double up my amps and subs, if you're gonna do it might as well do it right, right?