mrray13 30 Posted April 15, 2005 ok..i've used the caluclators and figured out what the values are..but i have no idea on what to buy to achieve those values..what i'm building..a third order 18db octave @ 4ohm low pass passive x-over. the values for which are..7.9mH coil441uF capacitor2.65mH coilso, what do i need to achieve these values (other then the obvious..duh)i went to PE, and listed some stuff, but evidently it's incorrect. yeah, i'm being a touch lazy, but i need somone to list the part numbers and where they got them. i'd also like an explaination as to how they achieved those values (not the ones above, i'm still reading the12volt.com on that) but how they achieved getting the values i need.thanks ahead of time!wheeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeee 0 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Acidburn 10 Posted April 16, 2005 ok, i think i got this figured outyou can combine these 40uF and this 400uF caps for a 440uF capacitancehttp://www.partsexpress.com/pe/pshowdetl.c...tnumber=027-442http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showdetl.cf...tnumber=027-376here is a 8mH inductorhttp://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showdetl.cf...tnumber=255-290you can combine these 2mH and 0.65 mH coils for a 2.65mH inductancehttp://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showdetl.cf...tnumber=255-266http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showdetl.cf...tnumber=255-236and then some kind of bread board or something to hold the pieces in placeif these look good, i'll draw up a little diagram of how they go together 0 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Supa_c 1 Posted April 16, 2005 wow, that stuff aint cheap 0 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Acidburn 10 Posted April 16, 2005 wow, that stuff aint cheapnot buying a single unit, nope 0 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Chevy350TPI 12 Posted April 16, 2005 http://www.digikey.com perhaps? 0 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ANeonRider 3 Posted April 17, 2005 Nowhere will be much cheaper when you are just buying singular.BTW, I am sure you know this, but might as well state it. To add capacitance, wire in series. To add inductance, wire in parallel. 0 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Acidburn 10 Posted April 17, 2005 Nowhere will be much cheaper when you are just buying singular.BTW, I am sure you know this, but might as well state it. To add capacitance, wire in series. To add inductance, wire in parallel.are you sure that's correct?i thought that resistances and inductances followed the same rules and capacitances followed the oppositeso to add resistances/iductances you wire in series, and to add capacitances you wire in parallel 0 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Supa_c 1 Posted April 17, 2005 wow, you totally lost me there 0 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
mrray13 30 Posted April 17, 2005 ok, with a board, that's about $55 or so...would i be better off just buying a ready to run unit?i thought these things could be bought/built for like $10??and thanks tom for looking that up...wheeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeee 0 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Acidburn 10 Posted April 17, 2005 ok, with a board, that's about $55 or so...would i be better off just buying a ready to run unit?i thought these things could be bought/built for like $10??and thanks tom for looking that up...wheeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeee screw the board, just use a piece of cardboard loljust those 5 things is $33.15 + shippingno problemo Kent 0 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ANeonRider 3 Posted April 17, 2005 Nowhere will be much cheaper when you are just buying singular.BTW, I am sure you know this, but might as well state it. To add capacitance, wire in series. To add inductance, wire in parallel.<{POST_SNAPBACK}>are you sure that's correct?i thought that resistances and inductances followed the same rules and capacitances followed the oppositeso to add resistances/iductances you wire in series, and to add capacitances you wire in parallel<{POST_SNAPBACK}>Ya, I'm mixed up. Damn studying making me stupider 0 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Chevy350TPI 12 Posted April 17, 2005 i thought these things could be bought/built for like $10??Loose the breadboard - you don't need one. Just hot glue or zip tie the components to a piece of cardboard. If you want to go fancy, try some plexiglass or something Components are really, really cheap ... you just can't purchase them as a single unit without paying out the ass I guess. 0 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
mrray13 30 Posted April 17, 2005 i thought these things could be bought/built for like $10??Loose the breadboard - you don't need one. Just hot glue or zip tie the components to a piece of cardboard. If you want to go fancy, try some plexiglass or something Components are really, really cheap ... you just can't purchase them as a single unit without paying out the ass I guess.which sucks...i might just go ahead and purchase a ready to run one instead..any help there fellows??wheeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeee 0 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Tirefryr 1,742 Posted April 17, 2005 I wouldn't suggest cardboard. You want something sturdy. Make sure everything is secured as well. Things can easily break if placed in or near the enclosure where there will be vibration. Also, the nature of the coils could very well cause them to buzz when the electrons are flowing. Been there, done that. I use plexi and small guage copper wire for traces, but stay away from flimsy mounting materials. And use a lot of glue.Second order tweeter network. It weighs a good 6lbs. and is 4"x8.5". Depending on the quality you are looking for, try to stick with inductors with the lowest DCR possible. 0 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Acidburn 10 Posted April 17, 2005 I wouldn't suggest cardboard. You want something sturdy. Make sure everything is secured as well. Things can easily break if placed in or near the enclosure where there will be vibration. Also, the nature of the coils could very well cause them to buzz when the electrons are flowing. Been there, done that. I use plexi and small guage copper wire for traces, but stay away from flimsy mounting materials. And use a lot of glue. Second order tweeter network. It weighs a good 6lbs. and is 4"x8.5". Depending on the quality you are looking for, try to stick with inductors with the lowest DCR possible.that looks really nice Ryanbut remember, this is for a Funky Pup, i dont think things will be vibrating that muchif not cardboard, you could use a piece of 1/4" wood or something, just something to keep the components in place 0 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Chevy350TPI 12 Posted April 17, 2005 Ryan, where'd you order the components from ? 0 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Tirefryr 1,742 Posted April 18, 2005 Ryan, where'd you order the components from ?The inductors from PE. The caps came from Apex Jr.http://www.apexjr.comThat's a really neat site with some awesome deals every now and then. I suggest you guys bookmark it. 0 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
mrray13 30 Posted April 18, 2005 thanks guys..but i really think this is something i'm just going to buy..i mean, it's just about as cheap and i don't have to do any work...lol...does apex have completed crossovers? any other sites, other then PE, that would carry x-overs??thanks again fellows..wheeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeee 0 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
mrray13 30 Posted April 18, 2005 actually, after looking at spexjr's site..i might just buy the one cv plate amp for the pup..lol..but it said it was 220VAC..blah..i might get the apex jr amp..it's only $90 and it puts out 130wrms at 4ohm...wheeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeee 0 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites