ClinesSelect 0 Posted July 5, 2005 I first built a 1.7 ft^3 slot ported box tuned to 32hz for my RL-p 12 and it handled my Phoenix Gold Tantrum 1200.1 with no problems at all. This weekend I built a 1.4 ft^3 sealed box which would give me 1.28 ft^3 net after sub displacement. The problem is that my amp easily overpowers the RL-p causing it to emit some less than favorable sounds when I turn it up. I then put it in a 1.13 ft^3 box (net), which helped some but I still cannot crank it. The enclosure specs say I should be using 1.0 ft^3 or less but then I read on here that 1.25 was the ideal amount of air space for this sub. What would be the ideal size box for the RL-p with 1200 watts RMS? Any help would be appreciated. 0 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ClinesSelect 0 Posted July 5, 2005 This is the thread I was referring to regarding sealed box size.http://www.soundsolutionsaudio.com/forum/i...opic=3435&st=15 0 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ANeonRider 3 Posted July 5, 2005 How are you setting your gains? What sounds is the sub making? 0 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ClinesSelect 0 Posted July 5, 2005 The gains are set by ear. It's not an issue of introducing distortion. The sub is being pushed to full excursion and "blapping" (if that is a word) but it is happening sooner than it should. I am running it active off a Alpine 9835, crossed over at 40hz with a 18db slope and no bass boost. My 10" Brahma handled the same set up (smaller box of course) with ease so I am thinking the box is still too big which is reducing the power handling of the Rl-p. But then I read that I need 1.25 for better low end extension which has me wondering what is the ideal size box. 0 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ANeonRider 3 Posted July 5, 2005 The gains are set by ear. It's not an issue of introducing distortion. The sub is being pushed to full excursion and "blapping" (if that is a word) but it is happening sooner than it should. I am running it active off a Alpine 9835, crossed over at 40hz with a 18db slope and no bass boost. My 10" Brahma handled the same set up (smaller box of course) with ease so I am thinking the box is still too big which is reducing the power handling of the Rl-p. But then I read that I need 1.25 for better low end extension which has me wondering what is the ideal size box.<{POST_SNAPBACK}>A Brahma and a RL-p are two different classes of subs. You are clipping the sub if it is snapping like that, and overexurting it. When you clip a signal, the power is doubled. Buy a DMM and use this to set the gain. Have to remember that the RL-p is really rated at 600W RMS.... http://forums.neons.org/viewtopic.php?t=202655Also, why crossed-over so low? 0 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
finebar4 0 Posted July 5, 2005 I have mine in 1.25 sealed with a Orion 1200D running it at 1 ohm. At this size enclosure the sub is probably the most musical sub I have ever heard. Mine goes down real, real deep, get pretty loud, but .....has it power limitations. on reading the gain setting string in the amp section, setting yours accordingly, and enjoying your sub without breaking it. I have mine crossed at 65 HZ at 18db and it sounds 0 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ClinesSelect 0 Posted July 5, 2005 The gains are set by ear. 0 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
SoundSplinter 1 Posted July 5, 2005 Yes, indeed be quite careful with your gain setting. I didn't intend for it to be common-place to use 1000+ watts on the RL-p series drivers. People just seem to like pushing things to the limit Nudge down the gain slightly and EQ the bass if necessary, but your driver should perform quite well with lower gain/power. If you believe this to be a driver error, please email me directly describing in detail what you have done, and provide any other images or video if you have them available. Good luck! 0 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ClinesSelect 0 Posted July 5, 2005 Yes, indeed be quite careful with your gain setting. I didn't intend for it to be common-place to use 1000+ watts on the RL-p series drivers. People just seem to like pushing things to the limit Nudge down the gain slightly and EQ the bass if necessary, but your driver should perform quite well with lower gain/power. If you believe this to be a driver error, please email me directly describing in detail what you have done, and provide any other images or video if you have them available. Good luck!<{POST_SNAPBACK}>Thank you Mike. I don't think there is anything wrong with the driver. I reset the gain with a DMM over lunch and it was set correctly. I just built the new box this weekend so I will continue to dial it in. I was just surprised at how quickly it reached (exceeded) max excursion. With the birth sheet of the amp showing 1,458 watts RMS, that's only 2.5 times the rated RMS of the sub 0 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
mrray13 30 Posted July 5, 2005 a birth sheet of 1400+...nice...but that's too much power on a rl-p. i wouldn't go over 1200, and then i'd set my gains carefully. i've pushed mine with as much as 2500, but it doesn't like it.personally, with about 750-900 wrms and the 1.25ft^3 box, the rl-p is one really hard to beat sub. but with 1400+ on tap, i'd think a dial down of box size would help...like in the 1-1.10ft^3 range. limit some of the excursion a bit.wheeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeee 0 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Acidburn 10 Posted July 5, 2005 what i would do is use the DMM to set the gain to only put 1000w-1200w so 1. you're not overpowering the sub as much, 2. your amp can run cooler, and 3. theres not as much strain on your car's electrical system 0 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ClinesSelect 0 Posted July 5, 2005 a birth sheet of 1400+...nice...but that's too much power on a rl-p. i wouldn't go over 1200, and then i'd set my gains carefully. i've pushed mine with as much as 2500, but it doesn't like it.personally, with about 750-900 wrms and the 1.25ft^3 box, the rl-p is one really hard to beat sub. but with 1400+ on tap, i'd think a dial down of box size would help...like in the 1-1.10ft^3 range. limit some of the excursion a bit.wheeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeee <{POST_SNAPBACK}>That is exactly what I was looking for. I am just trying to find the right balance between enough air space for low bass extension but still limit the excursion enough to keep the thing together. I am at 1.13 ft^3 net right now. 0 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
60ndown 0 Posted July 6, 2005 i'll take your,1.7 ft^3 slot ported box tuned to 32hz. 0 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
mrray13 30 Posted July 6, 2005 a birth sheet of 1400+...nice...but that's too much power on a rl-p. i wouldn't go over 1200, and then i'd set my gains carefully. i've pushed mine with as much as 2500, but it doesn't like it.personally, with about 750-900 wrms and the 1.25ft^3 box, the rl-p is one really hard to beat sub. but with 1400+ on tap, i'd think a dial down of box size would help...like in the 1-1.10ft^3 range. limit some of the excursion a bit.wheeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeee That is exactly what I was looking for. I am just trying to find the right balance between enough air space for low bass extension but still limit the excursion enough to keep the thing together. I am at 1.13 ft^3 net right now.drop it down a bit more. i honestly don't believe u'll lose enough lowend to matter, especially with the power on tap to allow for max excursion.i also like tom's (acidburn) idea of dialing down the amp a bit. like i've said, the most i'd recommend ever for throwing at an rl-p is about 1200 and that's with smart set gains and good ears.jsut slug ur current box to drop displacement down a bit. and see what happens. wheeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeee 0 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ClinesSelect 0 Posted July 6, 2005 a birth sheet of 1400+...nice...but that's too much power on a rl-p. i wouldn't go over 1200, and then i'd set my gains carefully. i've pushed mine with as much as 2500, but it doesn't like it.personally, with about 750-900 wrms and the 1.25ft^3 box, the rl-p is one really hard to beat sub. but with 1400+ on tap, i'd think a dial down of box size would help...like in the 1-1.10ft^3 range. limit some of the excursion a bit.wheeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeee <{POST_SNAPBACK}>That is exactly what I was looking for. I am just trying to find the right balance between enough air space for low bass extension but still limit the excursion enough to keep the thing together. I am at 1.13 ft^3 net right now.<{POST_SNAPBACK}>drop it down a bit more. i honestly don't believe u'll lose enough lowend to matter, especially with the power on tap to allow for max excursion.i also like tom's (acidburn) idea of dialing down the amp a bit. like i've said, the most i'd recommend ever for throwing at an rl-p is about 1200 and that's with smart set gains and good ears.jsut slug ur current box to drop displacement down a bit. and see what happens. wheeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeee <{POST_SNAPBACK}>I dropped it down to 0.85 ft^3 net last night and that helped a lot but I did lose some low end. The magic size is somewhere between 0.85 and 1.13 so I will keep playing with it. I can fit a box with 1.65 ft^3 net so I may build another box and put two RL-p's in it just for fun. 0 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
mrray13 30 Posted July 6, 2005 i'd wager 1ft^3 flat is going to be the magic number...for that power anyway.teh two subs in 1.65ft^3 net would be sweet, but splitting the power is going to limit excursion....wheeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeee 0 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites