In need of Box Design, Info inside

[s_carter 5]

Entirely up to you, but screws are cheap, and will ensure the glue doesn't crack and break away. Because eventually, it will, if that's all you use to hold it together. I have seen it too many times, when people come to me wanting a new box built for their ride... Just make sure to pre-drill your screw holes, so the wood doesn't crack.

[Thekid5678 3]

Entirely up to you, but screws are cheap, and will ensure the glue doesn't crack and break away. Because eventually, it will, if that's all you use to hold it together. I have seen it too many times, when people come to me wanting a new box built for their ride... Just make sure to pre-drill your screw holes, so the wood doesn't crack.

I have read 2 different things on this forum ( either that or I misread ) I have seen some people say " You just need to glue a box " But then I have seen other people say " You need to glue and screw your box " What is the best route to go? I would never have guessed that people just glued a box when assembling, Just seems like that would not be much support, and after a few good 35Hz beats that it would just fall apart

[s_carter 5]

I always glue and screw my enclosures that I build. The glue will hold it together for a while, but it will lose its bond after so long. The vibrations don't help either. As I have said, its entirely up to you. I would rather over build it. Why spend the time to build an enclosure, just to have it blow apart at the joints after a few years? I have a lot of prefab boxes in my garage that did just that, because they were only glued at the joints.

Edited December 6, 2010 by The SSD Madman

[Julian 641]

I always glue and screw my enclosures that I build. The glue will hold it together for a while, but it will lose its bond after so long. The vibrations don't help either. As I have said, its entirely up to you. I would rather over build it. Why spend the time to build an enclosure, just to have it blow apart at the joints after a few years? I have a lot of prefab boxes in my garage that did just that, because they were only glued at the joints.

Wrong, Wrong, Wrong, and once more Wrong.

The glue it's self will create a stronger bond then the wood it's self.

for the most part you screw so you can keep it in place. unless it's a very huge box, there are many builders who use lots of bracing and just glue.

[Duran 387]

I glue together, clamp ad use tac nails while the glue dries. An enclosure will fall apart due to not enough glue on a joint, or not enough bracing.

[Thekid5678 3]

see, this is what i was talking about. So Im torn between just gluing, or gluing and screwing lol.

[s_carter 5]

can you spend the extra 30-60 minutes of time it takes to screw it all together? and can you spare the 5 bucks that a box of screws cost? if you answer those you will answer your own question. It wont hurt anything if you answered yes to both of those.

[bassahaulic 155]

I always glue and screw my enclosures that I build. The glue will hold it together for a while, but it will lose its bond after so long. The vibrations don't help either. As I have said, its entirely up to you. I would rather over build it. Why spend the time to build an enclosure, just to have it blow apart at the joints after a few years? I have a lot of prefab boxes in my garage that did just that, because they were only glued at the joints.

This is wrong, I wish you would stop posting until you learn about what your posting.

Glue creates a stronger bond then the wood itself.

You just need something to hold the wood together while the glue dries, I see some people use nail guns to hold the wood together while the glue dries. One the glue dries, you could even go ahead and pull any screws out.

[bassahaulic 155]

Go

28" wide

17" tall

28" deep

Port:

4.5" wide

15.5" tall

41" long

Sub up port back.

This config would put you at 3.9 cubes net, @ 31hz, 17.88 sq in of port per foot.

My 15" SSD is tuned similarly and sounds GREAT. Kills the lows and the range is nice and flat.

Andrew is getting better at boxes!

[s_carter 5]

And the screw nazi strikes me down. Not to get on your case, bud, I have nothing against you or the way you like to do things. But I have done my homework, and do know what I am doing, I come from a large family of woodworkers.

"Though widely used by woodworkers, PVA's (such as Elmer's and Titebond Wood glue) are not really suitable as a primary adhesive or for edge gluing... They are "plastic", so without other supporting fasteners such as screws or nails, metal reinforcements or dowels, the glued joints will eventually break apart." Quoted from: Wood Glue Information

Ease up buddy, its not the end of the world. I'm out....

Edited December 7, 2010 by The SSD Madman

[Duran 387]

MDF is practically glued together sawdust that happens to be porous, wood glue actually soaks into it and creates a stronger bond. If you were to break a joint held together with wood glue, it will break, yes, but won't break where the wood glue soaked into the wood.

By all means though use what you prefer, NOTHING wrong with overkill, I juts wanted to clarify

[xAndrew225x 8]

Entirely up to you, but screws are cheap, and will ensure the glue doesn't crack and break away. Because eventually, it will, if that's all you use to hold it together. I have seen it too many times, when people come to me wanting a new box built for their ride... Just make sure to pre-drill your screw holes, so the wood doesn't crack.

I have read 2 different things on this forum ( either that or I misread ) I have seen some people say " You just need to glue a box " But then I have seen other people say " You need to glue and screw your box " What is the best route to go? I would never have guessed that people just glued a box when assembling, Just seems like that would not be much support, and after a few good 35Hz beats that it would just fall apart

I always glue and screw, but that's my preference. And screwing in those 45's aren't very hard and ensure that they won't fall out later on. Like said before ALWAYS pre-drill holes.

[xAndrew225x 8]

Go

28" wide

17" tall

28" deep

Port:

4.5" wide

15.5" tall

41" long

Sub up port back.

This config would put you at 3.9 cubes net, @ 31hz, 17.88 sq in of port per foot.

My 15" SSD is tuned similarly and sounds GREAT. Kills the lows and the range is nice and flat.

Andrew is getting better at boxes!

[Thekid5678 3]

Go

28" wide

17" tall

28" deep

Port:

4.5" wide

15.5" tall

41" long

Sub up port back.

This config would put you at 3.9 cubes net, @ 31hz, 17.88 sq in of port per foot.

My 15" SSD is tuned similarly and sounds GREAT. Kills the lows and the range is nice and flat.

Andrew is getting better at boxes!

Three thumbs up on my end for PHYSICS! :fing34:

[xAndrew225x 8]

Go

28" wide

17" tall

28" deep

Port:

4.5" wide

15.5" tall

41" long

Sub up port back.

This config would put you at 3.9 cubes net, @ 31hz, 17.88 sq in of port per foot.

My 15" SSD is tuned similarly and sounds GREAT. Kills the lows and the range is nice and flat.

Andrew is getting better at boxes!

Three thumbs up on my end for PHYSICS! :fing34:

How's the box coming?