General Audio

when i think about the next setup i want, I just dont know what i want because i listen to a lot of double bass and rap. Is there a type of enclosure that has acoustically accurate response appropriate for rock but also has the ability to get low? low meaning like 30 hertz ish. Haven't heard many ported setups other than my own on rock, and they always sound like shit compared to a sealed box. But I don't actually know if its because of my box, or because its an spl sub, etc. anyone have any advice? EDIT: I'm talking about subs just incase anybody didnt realize this

Looking for someone close to Charlotte NC that has a term lab meter that will be willing to meter my ride.

I was adding some Second Skin Audio Damplifier I bought to the rear wall of my cab and was wondering if I should/can put some Damplifier over the vents?, There is a bunch of road noise coming from those vents (1 Behing Passener & 1 Behind Driver Seat).

I have gotten a copy of Disc 4 from a set that was sold on SD. It has polarity tracks, left and right channel test track, test tunes and a whole bunch more. A good test CD if anyone is looking. I will make copies at 7$ and mail the USPS, hopefully shipping them like Blockbuster does won't break them. Anyone interested?

http://adireaudio.com/Home/TheMuse.htm Look very interesting. I will never have $6k to blow on them....but interesting none-the-less.

k, i was thinking... i have a Re Audio SX Dual 2... can i run a sundown audio 1000d to each voice coil. so it would be one 1000d going to one and then another 1000d going to the other. someone let me know

Is it possible? Can anyone give me a link to good site with some info on this?

so ive been to nearly every shop in orange county, and a few outside of it still in so cal and they are all a joke. they dont know anything, and push products that are absolute crap, like nitro. they have never heard of any brands such as SSA, FI, IA, TC, DC, AA, and only a few know RE. we on here know what is good and what is crap. and the worst part is that when you try to tell them about these brands they tell you that they are internet junk and have no warranties and downplay you all together. EVEN when you play your system for them thye still say its just ok but kicker CVR's or L7's are better. SO kicker CVR's and L7's are better than anything FI, SSA, DC, IA, etc? h…

My brain is fried from this long week. I can't even think enough to try to figure this out. If someone can tell me I'd owe them one of the beers I'm about to drink. Here is a picture. These are internal measurements. I just need to know the volume of this thing. Thanks in advance!

Any suggestions on a quality RTA at a reasonable price?

im looking at buying ether a fi ssd 15 fully loaded or a fi q 15 stock. i want to get output but still have clean bass. i know the q is more of a SQ sub but i have not heard much about ssd's

No more rumors

Looking for more ideas for an enclosure that will work with an FI Q 12 I’m the rear cargo area. I am being told to go 1.75 to 2.25 cubic feet since I want it ported. The current enclosure is too tall and i would like a little more room back there. Pretty sure it’s close to 2.5.

hi i have a clifford 590.2x and i have to addons which is the dual zone motion sensor 508d and digital tilt sensor 507m how do i wire these two to my alarm thur the optinal mux port for additional sensors

i have a 98"GMC ext truck that im going to wall off soon. i was wondering what set up would be better. 2 SSA Zcon 18s 2250w rms each= 4500w rms 4 SSA Icon 15s 1250w rms each= 5000w rms i have room to build either set up and lets assume i have the alt, amps n batts to push it..

I just had an idea on a sub enclosure for my 2002 reg cab s10..... what im thinking is to take out both seats and make an enclosure shaped like a bench seat (with cushion and carpet covering it) with a sub firing backwards behind where each seat was or maybe one firing backwards in the middle i havent worked out any details yet but i need opinions, because i dunno how safe this would be, say if i got into an accident or even if i could make a box sturdy enuf to support myself and other ppl Now, time for you guys to either tell me how stupid it is(cuz it might very well be lol) or gimme some help designing it!! any pros or cons would help!! Thanx Tom

Are there any sub box design programs that work for macs?

I just bought a pioneer avh-3200bt, pioneer gm-d9500f, and pioneer ts-d1720c speakers which came with 2 subs, 2 tweeters, and 2 crossovers. Where is the best place to buy an amp kit for it and how do you hook up the speaker amp wires when you have a mono amp hooked up to a subwoofer? I know how to hook up the subwoofer and amp without any problems, but I've never hooked up component speakers before and am a little confused on how to hook up the speaker amp to the back of the HU and to the battery if I already have a subwoofer amp connected to both?

So I got meh 4 gauge amp kit today. :bigclap: My dad is fixed on helping me with the install and he said it would be easier to put the amp under the seat instead of in the trunk, and he is worried it might overheat in the trunk on a hot summer day. It fits nice and snug under the seat, and all I would have to run to the trunk would be speaker wire. Is there a reason I shouldn't put it under the seat instead of the trunk?

As title. Looking for something ready to go. I will pay for the right

haven't post much but need help building a sub box and am going to bolt it to the metal behind the back seat is there any other thing i should be doing? any help would be appreciated system is 2 -12 audiopipe txx12ap subs ( been using them for over 3 years) 2 - IA 20.1 ( these subs have never seen both amps ) (these amps are amazing ) 2 extra batteries just for the amps

When using the online port length calculator, http://www.carstereo.com/help2/Articles.cfm?id=31 , when it says to input the internal cf of my box do i use the gross - bracing - driver displacement or do I use gross - bracing - driver displacement - estimated port displacement? IE i have 5.2 cf gross internel volume. I will have about 4.6-4.7 after bracing and woofer displacement. Should I use 4.6 as my internal cf or should I use 4.0 cf as I am estimating the port will take up .6-.7 cf? btw the port size is 19x3. Thanks very much

Got a party pack in the mail today 2-Loaded Fi BTL12s (dual 1ohm) 4-Mach5 MLI-65s (6.5" midbass woofer) 4-Dayton 4" full range speakers (midrange/front bandpass) 4-Kenwood 0.75" Silk Dome tweets (front high) lol, bare with my ashy ass hands....I just got off of work, so dont trip. Soon to come: Rockford T40001BD, (2) T4004's, a 230amp dB Starter alternator, (1)Deka Intimidator 9A78DT deep cycle under the hood and (2)Deka Intimidator 9A31's in the rear.

I have a Eclipse CD-8053 which I bought for the SQ level it has. I LOVE it and do not want to give it up. Any idea if there is a way to get Sirius Radio to play through the deck? I live in an area North of Dayton OH. All the Radio Stations point there sat's South towards Cinci... Therefore my reception just sucks. I listen to the Radio when I am in Dayton, but listen to CD's when home, because my SQ system really brings out the Hiss's and Pops! Any help for me??

I just bought a brand new Ram 1500 crew cab and I'm looking for ideas as far as the sub is concerned. Has anyone here done an install in a crew cab? I really don't want to go the shallow sub route. I would really like to find a way to keep my Icon 10. I realize that ported is out of the question so sealed will do. I was thinking about building a box to fit on the floor hump between the back seats. then I have to figure out how to mount 2 big a/b amps under the rear seat. Any thoughts?