General Audio

Allright so within the next month I will be ordering an FI BL 12 to put in my 98 mustang gt, I currently have a soundstream tx1.2000D mono block amp to power the BL. Also I will be running it at 1ohm, do you think the BL will be able to handle the watts or should I keep the amp around 1000-1500? Any feedback is appreciated. Just want to know your thoughts

With my setup so far my top score is 147.9 @ 32hz. Was wondering if anyone could tell me any quick tips on being louder on the meter without changing power or box? 2004 Dodge Durango. 2 XCON 15s in 4 cubes net each with 160 sq in of port between the two. Amps are RF T1500cp on each sub. Hints, tips, tricks? Im very new to competing. They place the meter in middle of windshield down low near dash if it matters. Thanks in advance everyone! Edit-My second score (last weekend) was a 146.3 @ 35hz. I did have to notch out a little of my box on each corner to fit it properly and of course my stupid ass unloaded the subs after the first show. Would it be warmer weather lowering…

Does the xs batteries listed in the store carry the warranties advertised on other sites? I've seen the d series have a 3yt and the xs have 2yr. Just want to make sure their warranted before buying. Thanks!

If so, have you guys seen or purchased from a seller named audioclinic ?? He has been on there for quite some time with great reviews and it seems he has only ever been working with/selling US acoustic amps.... let me know the low down... and if anyone can confirm if ZED made or not would be great... link to seller: http://stores.ebay.com/Audio-Clinic THANKS!!!

I have 2 runs of 0 and running 2 more sometime when I get time ( already have it) . . I was wondering if you need the same amount of ground as you do power.like Should I use 2 of the runs for ground and 2 for power or all 4 power and 4 grounds in the back or 3 power and 1 ground from front and 2 grounds in the back or what? There will be at least 4 runs no matter what. Just seeing what y'all think I should do

i was kinda surprised today when i was cruisin after work and i decided to play "bass i love you" and on the really really low note it flexed the crap out of my window so when i got home i stood outside the door and i did a little bit of a hairtrick on myself and i dont have very long hair so it wasnt awesome and it wasnt a massive hairtrick but for a single 15 i thought it was sweet! ive got it in a prefab box right now(bad i know) and its on a kicker 1000.1 ( not proud to admit that) and its probably not even getting 1000 watts right now ( clean power anyways) and it did a little hairtrick! have to try it on my girlfriend! its in an 06 chevy colorado crew cab by the way…

Just saw this, worth a look:

Have A O-scope or something to help me set my gains correctly? got a new amp and need some help

Hi all- I have been battling with alternator whine for a majority of my car audio hobby. I have tried countless things. I had just made an LC filter to filter out noise in the power line of my radio thinking it was finally it, but unfortuately it remained. Then it dawned on me, I have 2 amps for speakers in my car now and I tried disconnecting the one I've had for years. The noise went away, which is great to finally know what is causing it. The problem is I don't have the cash to buy a new amp for my midbass. Does anyone have any idea where to start troubleshooting inside the amp for something like this? I'm a fourth year electrical engineering student, so I'm quite …

i actualy live 30 mins west of Toronto in Milton, and i was wondering if anyone near here has an SPL meeter...i wanna see were i stand before the comp on may 11...ive never been meetered before. thanks guys

I installed my big 3 about 2 months ago, and I was in a hurry to get it done. I want to help shield the wires from the heat and possibly change my battery terminal to a ring-style terminal. Will Techflex be enough? Or should I put on some wire loom as well? I'd like to be able to just put on some color matching techflex to my power, ground, and amp cables, but if the AZ heat is going to beat down on those wires this summer, I'll wrap some wire loom around them if need be. What do you guys think? EDIT: KnuKonceptz 0g wiring. According to their website, with the insulation, it's 16mm thick, just over half an inch. Should I go for the 1/2 techflex or the 3/4? Same questi…

I have a 1.3 ft^3 vented box tuned to 33 hz and an Audioque 1200w amp. I placed an order for a GCON-10d2 so I can have plenty of head room and keep the gain down on the amp. My goal is "SQL", not looking to flex all my body panels. I chose this particular size box and sub so I can keep most of my trunk space available. I keep thinking I should have chosen a more powerful subwoofer that can handle ~1000w RMS (ie. FI SSD or AQ HDC3, etc) I'd hate to order a new sub just to wait even longer for the build time. I listen to rap, R&B, techno, dance, dubstep... All advise and recommendations is much appreciated. Thanks!!

OK so as you guys know im overseas in germany right now. i went to a local car shop today and asked how much it would cost to build me a box for my Massive Audio DMX stg2 subwoofer and he quoted me 150-200 euros which is about $200-$300 for this build. the box would be made of MDF and will be carpeted. i asked about bracing and if he could build it in birch instead he didnt know what that was. the language barrier owns me and this guy. I asked him if i got the materials if he could build the sub and he said yes. so theres an option. I hear Birch is stronger and lighter, but harder to cut and you have to prep and sand the area, blah blah. anyway is this a good deal? I was …

Hey guys, just recently bought a 2 channel and am now wiring or trying to wire it. i have come to the point of putting the speaker wire to the speakers. but i have come across a little issue. you see all the previous wiring is connected to the driver and passenger door by a single clip. there is no other opening in the door. and theres no room to slide my speaker wire in there. so how do i get the new wire into the door? the only way i see is to drill a couple holes. what do u guys usualy do?

Was getting a CRAZY buzz/hum.... from the tweeters... thought it was amp.... HU pico..... not sure.... been going for a week after I switched the amps.... Well finally got it nailed to RCAs behind the HU .... BUT .... I need to find a permanent/neat way of creating this ground connection.... What I did was wrap the RCAs in copper but it is sooooo bulky...... what are some ideas? any pics or links to the idea would be greatly appreciated... I got so fcking annoyed that I took out the HU for now as I cannot tolerate the sound at all

Is there anyplace perhaps an Instagram page that has funny car audio pics? making fun of certain subs or Idk anything funny? That would be greaattt......(office space refference)

what would it take to have surround sound in a vehicle and about how much will it cost to do so

It was a nice day, and the shop is closed on sunday so I decided to break out the old TL and do some testing. At the moment, the ports I am using are for testing purposes, just form tube, no fibreglass enforcement or even flares for that matter, so I know there is still more I can squeeze out of this. All testing was done with Two 15" Icons on a Crescendo 3500d (At 2 ohms keep in mind). Pretty basic electrical with only a single kinetik 1400 as a second battery. First Test : 6.cuft / 8" formtube tuned to ~27hz 30hz - 137.94db 35hz - 139.19db 40hz - 141.53db 44hz - 143.20db 46hz - 143.52db Second Test : 6cuft / 8" formtube tuned to ~ 33hz 30hz - 138.23db 35hz - 14…

Me and my buds are doing an aftermarket deck install on a 91 Pontiac Firefly and need to know wire color info to hardwire it to the cars connector. We’ve looked all over the web and can’t find a thing! Called car audio shops and they all want money. Here are the colors to the wires; hopefully someone can help us out: A: Solid Red B: Solid Orange C: White w/ Black Stripe D: Red w/ Black Stripe E: Orange w/ Black Stripe F: Solid White G: Red w/ Yellow Stripe H: Solid Black #1 I: Grey w/ White Stripe J: Green w/ White Stripe K: Solid Black #2 L: Grey w/ Black Stripe M: Green w/Black Stripe This is our decks wire color info: P o w e r: Memory (+12v Constant) - Yellow Ig…

I'm going to be selling my rockford t1 15 but I'm going to build a new box for it. My current one is tuned to 38hz which is probably why my lows aren't to good. I want to try tuning it to 32hz unless someone has a better recommendation. This is the box I have right now - http://imageshack.us/a/img828/4849/imagesyn.jpg I want to keep the height the same, but knock the depth about 2-3inchs if possible, and my width can be bigger. I'm not very understanding of port size and how to get that tuning/and get the cubes it needs with the different size port.

I need a box design for under the rear seat of my truck but the thing is I don't know if I want to go with four ported 8's with about 600 watts a piece or two 10's ported with about 1000 watts a piece...which setup will be louder? And who is a good enclosure designer?

I'm going to be putting a marine speaker under the hood of my car behind the grille I want to run a kill switch into the cabin so I can only turn it on when needed I'm looking for something that will not cause me any resistance or quality loss problems I'm not real sure how to wire something like this until I see the switch but I'm guessing you only run the (+) to the switch and leave the (-) one whole wire and no i am not turning my car into an icecream truck........ its for the drive in movies Thanks and have an awesome day

My alt charges at 14.4 Have a batt bank, and stays above 13v whith hard bass hits. After a while my subs loose "thump" I still have some bass I'll turn the volume down and it comes right back. I have my gain set to 7 at 28 volts well below max output. Brand new T1000-4ad running two P3's.

New to the forums, so forgive me if this is in the wrong thread. I'm about to purchase a GCON for my first build in 5 years, and I want to make sure it's done right. So, I'll be running a single GCON-12 in the trunk of my 2007 Honda Accord SE. I've been looking at the RF Prime R1000-1D Amp, which puts out 1000 RMS @ 2 Ohms. Feel free to suggest a better matched amp, just trying to get something for $250.00 or under. http://www.sonicelec...00-1D.html#tabs First question: Since the GCON-12 is a DVC sub, I would need to get the 4 Ohm model (D4) to get 1000 RMS out of this amp, correct? (I realize this is overpowered for the GCON, but I want to have a little overhead fo…

Just bought another truck to mess around with and looking into doing a blowthrough. I figured if I'm doing a blowthrough I wanted to do 4 15s. I'm gonna purchase a h/o alt of course. My first option is 4 sundown sa 15s running off of a crescendo bc3500d or a sundown saz 2500d. Looking to only spend about $800 on the amp. Would the crescendo out do the saz for the same dollar pretty much? 2nd option was to get a lil louder. 4 sundown zv4 15s running off of 2 crescendo bc3500d or 2 saz 2500d. Or would that not be enough power to call it good? Would the much higher power subs My question is with the power I'm thinking of giving the 2 options what would be more ideal. I wa…