General Audio

let's say----someone here was to make a limited batch of handmade amps that were very easy on the pocketbook----I have a few questions--- 1----what options would you want---power wise and such 2----what size would be the best 3----what class would you want 4---and finally would you buy from someone here building amps? just wondering

Sorry if this is in the wrong section, but its the only one where I see it fit. But anyway, I've been waiting since May 3rd for my two 12" SSA Xcons, order status has been at "awaiting shipment" every since then. It is now june 16th, and I feel like driving to the build house in Nevada and helping them build my xcons in order to speed up the process lol. I have been emailing SSA often (sorry to the guys at SSA if I've been a little aggravating lol I've just been very excited to hear these subs) and all they can tell me is "you will have them shortly". Just wondering, for you guys that have maybe placed SSA subwoofer orders either late April, or early May, have you recie…

Good evening everybody. I have a few items to install for an Audio System upgrade; but don't know how to go about it. The Items that will be involved are -1 Distribution Block -2 Amps. -1 Capacitor. -1 Equalizer/Crossover -6 Speakers in Total (2 tweeters, 2 Front Door 6.5's, and 2 6x9's) -1 Subwoofer I'm trying to connect 2 amps; 1 for the Subwoofer and the Second for Speakers. My Aftermarket Head Unit has 3 pairs of RCA plug-ins. 1) Subwoofer 2) Front 3) Rear. How Would I connect the 6 speakers (which I'm going to rewire) to the 1st amp? Do I wire the Speakers to the Amp or Straight to the Head unit itself? Also, how would I connect the amp to the Head unit if it…

Rockford Fosgate 3SIXTY.3 Going active next year and I am stoked for this upcoming processor. Hopefully the autotune is phenomenal. Not too much has been released about that. The manual adjustments are plentiful to say the least. After they work out the bugs it should be released. Ready for autotune/manual with RTA? These videos were posted in 1.11

I am currently financially strapped and so i cant spend money on sound deadening products like dynamat and fatmat, second skin etc etc.... anyway i was wondering if there are any other ways to stop the trunk from rattling...... I tightened up all the bolts in the trunk which helped very little but it still helped nonetheless. I noticed under the carpet in my trunk is a layer of stock sound deadening im guessing. It is also surrounding the 6x9's on the rear deck in the car. I have several cars at my house that are out of comission, if that layer of fabric under the carpet is an actual sound deadener, i was wondering would it be possible to somehow jerry-rig a way to stick…

Hey there everybody im new to the site so forgive me if i placed this in the wrong area but im trying to decide what configuration would be the best of both worlds as far as sounding good and being loud in a 91 civic hatch behind the back seats. I plan on running 1 12" sub. Should i have the sub and port forward, up, or back, or should i have a combo of the above port up and sub forward or back or any other variation of the above options? Any input would be great thanks im wanting to go ahead and build my box as i let my pocket recoup from the holidays as its fairly cheap to do. lol I'm just not sure what would be best for my civic.

I have a stock alt and 2 dura last golds up front and no battery in the rear yet. So I just ordered a dc power dual alt bracket and will order either a mechman 260 amp alt or a dc power 250sp to run along side my stock alt!!!!!!!!!! I'm so pumped!!!! If my calculations are correct, I should see about 260 at idle and 365 at full output with the mechman alt or 240 at idle and 355 at full tilt with the dc power setup!! I'm bout damn ready to see steady voltage!!!!!!!!! Hopefully high 14's too

Anyone had luck with the dodge durangos and if so how do they compare to blazers and explorers? I am looking for a new suv in the 2000 (year) range. and I like the look better but herd they dont do as good on the meter as explorers and blazers. I have 2 12" BTL Fully Loaded subs. any feedback would be awesome Thanks, Brock

BEWARE WHEN BUYING FROM ONLINECARSTEREO.COM. THEY REMOVE SERIAL NUMBERS FROM JL AUDIO, ALPINE, INFINITY, FOSGATE, KENWOOD, KICKER, PIONEER, CLARION JBL AND FEW MORE. BY DOING THAT YOU DONT HAVE WARRANTY. THEY CLAIM YOU CAN SEND IT BACK BUT ALL THEY DO IS HOLD ON TO IT FOR A FEW WEEKS AND THEY SEND YOU THE SAME DEFECTIVE. ALSO, THEY DONT HAVE ANYTHING IN STOCK MOST OF THE TIME SO THEY CHARGE YOUR CARD AND ISSUE YOU A FAKE TRACKING # TO MAKE YOU BELIEVE THAT IT SHIPPED BUT IN ALL ACTUALITY THEY ARE USING YOUR MONEY FOR A FEW DAYS IF NOT WEEKS AND THEN ALL OF A SUDDEN THEY SAY "ITEM OUT OF STOCK". WE NEED TO CREATE AWARENESS AND PASS THIS MESSAGE ALL OVER TO MAKE THEM PAY FO…

Head Unit- Alpine CDA-9886 Speakers- Alpine 5x7 ovals AMP-Alpine MRR-M500 Box-10"Box Sub- JL audio w1v2 All that plus labor costing me around 1300 . what you think?

I thought it would be interesting to see what everyone's FIRST system was or what you installed back in the day. For some of you that may not be that long ago. Here is one of mine. I didn't have money for my own system at the time but I remember this...... Concord cassette unit (that was the Cadillac of cassette units in the mid 80's) a pair of Pyramid 15's with a port (really just a hole in the box) 6x9 pyramids no upgrades in the front speakers 10 band graphic EQ (can you say... extra 40 watts) and I think it was a Blaupunkt amp running the subs This was in a 86 Cavalier. YEAH!!!! Lots of bass and bad sound up front. I got more but I'll wait

any1 else? for example, frogcase gives me this "Array ( [0] => 1464216727 [1] => " and aaron clinton gives me "Array ( [0] => 1464216728 [1] => "

Which subwoofer would get louder and hit the lows the best?it will be 12 inch subwoofers running off the aq2200 watt amp?what speakers are more reliable?thanks ahead of time...

I just recently picked up a 98 F150 extended cab PU, and I have always been curious as too if there is an ideal amount of cone area vs cab space available? I am only planning on putting what ever i can fit in the place behind the drivers seat, so i have room for 2 people to still sit in the back. But i wasn't sure (if i could get it to fit) if 2 10's/12's in a daily ported box? At this point, it is just an idea but i am thinking about an Xcons. I'm looking for more SQ with some output when i really want to turn it up. anyone have experience in a small cab space? I picture that much cone area in such a small cab space to be sloppy sounding. My last rig was a single 12" Q p…

i have a 08 chrysler 300 now i oviously dont know car audio like most on here and when someones says to me whats your goal with your setup.im probally gonna get alot of negative feed back but i want a system that pounds i would like windshield flex.budget for amp is abot 1200 dollars and budget for subs is 1000 dollars i would appreciatte any help..I dont come to you with this question to be ignorant i just know 95%of you guys know your car audio,and not walled just trunk space...

was looking into a audio school,do any of the ssa mem think this is a real help?http://www.metro-auto.com/products.htm.

hey guys. i am in need of a voltmeter for my car. the car doesnt come with one from the factory. and i would like to add one. i dont want the typical stinger one or a round one. but i am looking for something small. oh and i dont want to have to order it off ebay as i have had too many bad experiences with ebay. thanks

Ive been playing with the thought lately as installing an iPad in the dash of my truck. I was looking at an in dash unit but I can get and iPad in for like $500 total installed. I don't want to have a head unit along with the iPad, just the iPad with the adapter that allows for charging with audio/video rca's. Here's some of the questions I was trying to figure out. Has anyone ever attempted this or talked with someone who has? Although not the best I can use processing on the iPad itself. I should be able to connect directly to the amp with the rca's correct? I may be missing some things but it seems like if you tapped the remote in with the ignition and rca's worked tha…

Well, today I was driving down the road with the stereo playing at my typical volume when all of a sudden all the lights on my dash (digital readouts) shut off for a split second, then come back on. At the exact same time this happens, my stereo drops in volume by a good 10-15db and gets extremely distorted. It basically sounded like my subs cut off, mids stopped playing and tweets got extremely distorted and dropped in volume. This only lasted 1 second at most, but immediately after it happened my car started having major voltage drop when the bass hit (mind you, I've never even had my lights dim with this setup). I don't have a voltmeter in my car, so I don't know …

has anyone heard these amps made by performance teknique?

so, was at the junk yard today getting some parts for the Saturn (need a new trunk latch) today, when I spotted this odd looking by-nine on the rear deck of a caprice (old 80s box chevy) right? so after I got my part and my bolts needed, I walked over to the caprice and took a peak in the trunk, found about 15 feet of 8AWG wire (perfect length for the application I need it for, no, im not using it as power wire) in the trunk, and then I looked at this yellow by-nine that I saw, the magnet was BIG, had to be atleast an 80oz magnet, mags as big as a CD in diameter, couldnt find the second one, so i grabbed it and continued to look for other parts. later on today when I got …

A friend of mine just got a car and wants a bit of bang in his trunk. Door speakers will be stock And just an amp for the sub. Still working on Convincing him on getting the rest. Car: 2004 Honda civic 4door Sedan Alternator: 70a? H/u: Probably my current pioneer 8500bhs? Amp: I was thinking 500ish watts Sub: probably 15" sealed. Goals: cheap and sq Box size: 2-3 cubes max total I'm open to all opinions

Hello I'm new to this forum and this is my first post ... So I've been designing and building my enclosures now for a while about 5 years now and use a software called Torres ... But now I want to use a new program that is more accurate and professional ... So is there and software programs that I should use?.. And any equations I can use on pen and paper? .. Thanks

This is going in a show car. Right now I am leaning towards sealed cause they can be made to look so much nicer and still sound good. It needs to get really loud, but will probably never see a car audio competition. If this poll doesnt work, i give up.

Post up any power wheels photos. plz Thx