General Audio

im looking for a crimper like this one but id rather not have to hit it with a hammer. does anyone know where to buy an impact gun driven crimper for 30 bucks or under? i found some 250.00 ones from snap on but thats it. http://www.nagca.com/grandtech/Tech%20Photos/crimper.jpg

New to the board and I am doing my first build. I am aiming for more sq than spl. working with a small budget but so far I have: headunit-pioneer 590 speakers-pheonix gold rsd 6.5 amplifier- hifonics txi 4406 Now I just need help deciding on sub and sub amp. I was thinking of 1 10", but i am not sure if this will be enough bass for a civic. Again i do not need spl, just something to sound tight while in the car. Nothing to rattle the car apart Trying to keep it around 800-900 for everything Suggestions, comments, please!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Yesterday My HDC'S vibrated the screws out of the sub itself and Fell At the Box

I have 2 runs of 0 and running 2 more sometime when I get time ( already have it) . . I was wondering if you need the same amount of ground as you do power.like Should I use 2 of the runs for ground and 2 for power or all 4 power and 4 grounds in the back or 3 power and 1 ground from front and 2 grounds in the back or what? There will be at least 4 runs no matter what. Just seeing what y'all think I should do

I'm not asking for any practical purpose, or for any real world application. I've just NEVER seen this question asked, and after a bit of gin, I started to wonder, Are large amps, for example NS-1, IA80.1, AB1101.1, Stetsom 14k etc, you know, big ass amps, able to be run at 8ohm, 16ohm, and (never seen a speaker system run at this) 32ohm? I see no reason why you would considering the price to watt ratio, but could you safely?

One 15" AA SMD of a Stetsom 7k2e. 4^3 tuned ~31 hz w/ 29 sq in of port in a '09 Yaris Sedan. DC Power 320amp alt, big three, all 1/0 wiring, stock battery. I just metered tonightat a local shop and put up a 144.4 w/ peak at ~ 41 hz. My question is "How much would I benefit from more port area? I plan on going from 29 in to 72.5 in thanks

Well, I picked one of the $100 ones up for a cheap alternative for some subbass. First impressions: The build quality is extraodrinary. Everything is aligned perfectly. There is not a hint of excessive glue used which is commonplace on a lot of subs today available from certain buildhouses. The finish on the driver is superb. The basket seems to be a little weak for the motor structure, but hey, it was a lot of "leftover parts" assembled very well into a quite impressive looking driver. IT came with a four-piece, self-adhesive foam surround for rear sealing, with a very attractive front rubber piece that just seems to flow into, or out from the surround. I wish ot…

Destroyed part of their car cause there stereo was to loud like your windows? how loud was you car at the time?

Ever added the total cost of your system up ? It's bound to be a scary thing to do - I dont even want to think of it :ph34r: - Steve

Hi everyone, just had a question about competitions. Is there a general rule where you cant sit in your vehicle at a certain db level? I'm talking about hearing safety. I may want to carry that over into my daily driver practices.

I know that a lot of people don't like them here .. why is that lol I thought Dave was part of RE back in their glory days

Just bought a brand new f150 stx with sync looking to put my stereo from my jeep back in the f150 the alpine type r components are probably going in the truck as well as my ppi 4 channel i think im going to sell my kenwood excelon 997 considering how much of a pain it would be to replace the stock and im probably going to sell or trade my dcon 15 and custom ported wedge box for somethkng that will fit under the seats in my extended cab any recommendations would be helpful for loc as well as subs and a box for under the seat that could run off the rear channell of my ppi 800 by 4

Ok, so as stated in the title these are my thoughts and OPINIONS on using a plate amp to power a subwoofer setup in a house and going active in a home environment. This was wrote in a short time period late a night so deal with any rambling that I did and please correct me where you see fit. I would like ya'lls opinion on this article and what needs to be changed, etc, etc. KEEP IN MIND THESE ARE ALL MY OPINIONS, NOT FACT. Thinking of using a big badass rack amp to drive your subs in your house? Thinking of going active in your home setup? If so, you may want to read this

I have a 12" FI BTL with the UfO motor that needs to be reconed. Who makes the best recone kit for it, I currently only know of FI and PSI recone kits but I'm not sure what one is better. Who makes the best recone kit for it? If another company makes one that would allow me to have 3000w rms that would be perfect. Please let me know what my options are and what you recommend.

well i purchased a 100.2 then plans changed a bit i should have got a 100.4 but im going to work with the 100.2 run down Vehicle: 1994 gmc sierra Subs: 2 SD1 12's V1's Amp: SAX-100.2 Comps: Image dynamics ctx65cs the dilemma running in tri-mode essentially runs the same frequency to the subs and components. i already have everything on a subsonic filter below 30hz. now i need to keep the subs from playing above about 90 hz and the comps from playing anything below around 60hz. i cant use the EQ that im using for a subsonic filter because when i try to filter for the comps its just going to kill the bass. so im going to have to make some crossovers i quess heres a pic of …

i have 3 seats in the front bench of my truck. when i sit in the middle, the imaging is pretty good. the singer's voice is in the center, guitars/drums/etc in their proper places. however, when i sit in the driver's seat, the horizontal bias is horrible. sometimes i hear the left tweeter a lot since its pretty close to my head (a-pillar), other times i hear my right mid over everything else (maybe cuz its more on axis?). the tweeters arent mounted for perfect imaging rite now cuz i dont have time to glass the flush mount cups to the a-pillars. theyre mounted above ear level and kinding pointing to the stomach of the middle seat so maybe thats the cause? lemme know whatcha…

So is there any way for me to be able to get my 8ga speaker wire once doubled to fit in my btl terminals? I can't seem to get it to fit in amp or sub terminals, also I have an Audioque 2200d powering my btl which has four wire ports can I combine the two+ and the two- into the+ and- on box or what would be my best bet?...thanks

Hey guys, im currently redoing my build. I plan on doing two 8" sundown neo pro along with a good tweeter in each door as well as maybe glassing a 4" component set in the pillars. Also gonna be running 4 DC 15" XL's, but im looking now at a processor. This is my first big build like this and im new to this whole processor thing so be gentle please haha. My headunit is the pioneer Avic-Z130BT if that matters. I just want to clean things up a bit and do everything the right way so can someone suggest what i need to do and just exactly what a processor will do in my setup?

Hello everybody I need help on selecting subwoofers for my setup. I finally saved up enough lunch money to do it. I just can't decide on what subs to get. I've broke it down to 4 subs. 1. Fi Q ferrite 12's @ 1750rms 2. Sundown U serious 12's @1500rms 3. Soundqubed Hdx3.1 12's @1500rms 4. Skar zvx v2 12's @1500rms I have all the electrical and a H/O alternator to run everything I just can't make up my mind. Can someone please get me over the hump? Thanks for your time.

Just wanted to congratulate Sundown Audio as well as FI Audio for great products, hooked them up in an 08 Jeep Commander and WOW ! Loud stuff lol Anyway Pics will be up shortly, have to wait for them to finish uploading on photobucket, Bump for Vids

Hi, I have a 1999 blazer with a single 12 Fi Q powered by a cadence zrs-7000d which is running at about 1300 rms at 1 ohm. The Fi Q is in a 2.2cuft L-Ported box tuned to about 32 hz. I really like this sub woofer but i am looking for more output. I have some questions now. First, i am looking to add another Fi Q 12 and making the box to about 5^3, i would be buying another zrs-7000d and bridging them together to get 2600rms at 2 ohms. Would there be any better subs that would give me noticeably more output out of a 5^3 box with about 2600rms? Second, would a new 250 amp alt and a optima yellow top under the hood be enough to support the electrical for the 2600watts? Third…

does anyone know what grade home depot or lowes MDF is. ive got a few ganahl lumbers and reel lumber by me and they use grade a. ive used the A before and i liked it better and it seemed to be better quality than HD while still bein only $25 a sheet

Seems to be hard for me to find wiring diagrams for my setup. I have a single DVC 1 ohm sub, and a 2 ohm mono channel amp. Right now it's wired at .5 ohm and the amp or sub is cutting out at around 3/5 way up, not sure if it's the subs or the amp because the protect light does not come on, but it acts as if it goes into protect. I decided to wire to over 2 ohms. This would be wired from amp + to sub + amp - to sub - sub + to - for a 2 ohm load, or a 4 ohm? 2 right? Also, the amp has dual outputs, and i've read that I can wire up further by using both output terminals.

I currently have two RF P3 12s, a Hifonics 1208D amp, a 1 farad stinger cap. and 4awg wire all around. yet my electrical is VERY noticably weak, headlights dimming a TON and just overall weak flow rate. im looking at a new battery, like the http://www.soundsolutionsaudio.com/zencart...products_id=101 should i replace my factory battery, put it in line with what i have now, or replace it with where my cap. is? i plan on getting a new, more powerful setup this summer, so there will be even more power needed. any suggestions? if you need any more information, just ask. i konw i missed something thanks a ton!

Hello all, Set up: IVA-W205 with Blackbird 2 docked: Problem 1: Alpine unit sees Ipod and plays and displays info but absolutely no audio, can't hear a thing. Sirius, CD changer, DVD all work correctly. Problem 2: With Blackbird docked and using bluetooth, caller can hear me but I can't hear them. INT settings all correct per Alpine. I sent the unit into Alpine and was told there was nothing wrong and everything checked out. Am I missing something??? Thanks in advance!