General Audio

I wonder if I am gonna use 2000 watts to run a Fi 18" BT, will I need a new HO alt, or new battery, after the fact of the Big 3. Also I want to ask, if I decide to just get rid of my rear 6x9's and just upgrade my front stage will I be able to just put all of the power from the head unit into 2 speakers so that I wont have to run another amp? I also wouldn't mind if someone could help me find a amp that could handle 2000 watts RMS at 1 ohm

Has anyone had any experience doing any audio on a motorcycle? . Going to be doing an install on an 04 roadglide . Just seeing if anyone has any recommendations or anything since I have not messed with a motorcycle yet . . There is a stock head unit and 2 speakers . Customer wants to try to keep the head unit and replace the stock speakers and maybe add a couple more speakers and maybe amp them. . Hes not a big audio guy so im sure wont need crazy quality . Just want to be able to hear clear music when on the highway and shit

i still dont really get the concept of the idea. can somebody get into detail for me? wouldnt the sub being outside the box mess with the airspace?

So woke up this am 4 work to find my back window busted out, tailgate left open... and my subs gone!!!! didn't hear a damn thing... and I'm only 20 feet away or so from my truck. I'm planning on a new sub build anyway.... but damn...WTF? So sick of this crap... So it appears that I have a need for a two way alarm, any suggestions...? local audio place suggested a compustar, and wants 800$ to install it... remote start, glass break, 2nd horn...the works... I don't really care to put it in myself, but I might if it saves me some $, and is not tooo complicated. IDK... really want to catch these little F'rs.....

well the positive on the box terminal melted and warped. this is the second time it has melted but the first time it didn't get ruined completely. but this time it did. the wiring from inside side of terminal to sub is 12g and the wire on the outside side to amp is 16g for 2000 watts rms i know it should be 8g. i know. but havent had the money to buy any yet. both times this has happened it has been the same case: the sub wouldnt hit until almost at 2/3 volume. or if i messed around with the terminal peices. (tightened and loosened them) in the first case i came to the conclusion that the two gold prongs that you see in the pictures on the inside side of the terminal…

hi guys this is my first post in a very long time... as if that matters but i do have one question to ask.... which is better cd or ipod? i have found that cd is a lot louder in treble while my ipod blasts the bass... my ipod is connected through a Alpine headunit with ipod cord and all... i was just wondering what people prefer more cd or ipods?

So, there is a show sunday. I have 2 atomic 10 inch ap/spl subs in street beat 1. in my sig is my score on a american bass vfl 400.1 at 1/4 gain. 1/2 gain is where clipping starts. this weekend I AM A run 2 kx2500.1's at 1 ohm each. 1 per sub. stay tuned for the crazy number. and pray for the 150. If you didn't know sb1 is 30 seconds of averaged music. alot like bass race except its divided by number of subs rather then bracketed. you can also start your song before go so its a constant 30 sec. Sunday is the day I will post the results. A) I blow somethign up B ) the number will be LOUD as hell.

Ughhh... here I go again! Reluctantly I am going to do this, although I am having a hard time getting motivated to do it. I am replacing the factory head unit, door speakers and adding a sub to my recently acquired 07 ST Limited. Headunit Parts Pioneer AVH-P3300BT 5.8-Inch DVD Receiver - $339 shipped. Pioneer GEX-P920XM XM Satellite Tuner - $90.99 shipped. Metra 95-5812 Double DIN Installation Kit - $10.52 shipped. Scosche FDK11B Wiring Harness - $14.94 shipped. PAC SWI-PS Pioneer and Sony Universal Steering Wheel Radio Interface - $38.99 shipped. Door Speakers Infinity Reference 6832cf 5 x 7 - $51.95/pair shipped. Subwoofer MTX Audio Thunderform FEXST01BK10A-T45 (Bl…

Just got a 95 altima little 4 banger already going to replace the battery looking to replace the alternator but question is how will i know what alternator will fit and how big should/can i go? also the big 3 will be applied poor poor electrical system

I am getting ready to sell a cell phone I am not using. Once it is sold I will have $260 to spend on something for car audio. I have three choices on how to spend the $260 and wanted some opinions from everyone else as to what you would do or what would be more beneficial. Option 1- Two rolls of raamaat. Spend an entire weekend deadning my car, I might have a day off by the time it gets here. Option 2- One roll of raamaat which is enough to do my front doors and my trunk hatch (completely sealed doors) and then buy the basics I need for wiring from Knukonceptz which is a 1/0 kit, POS battery terminal and three pairs of 2ch RCA's. Option 3- Get the bluetooth car kit and h…

I got done (for now) sound deadening my truck today, and when testing, I noticed there was still a bit of a rattle coming from some unknown location. I put my hand on a bunch of metal panels, sat on the box, nothing. Finally, I decided I would wait till daylight to really diagnose the problem. Later, I put a shirt over the port to see how much air was moving... The sound stopped. I removed the shirt, it started again. Did it a couple more times and the same thing happened... Am I missing something, or do I just need to dress up ( ) my box for it to want to work properly? I'm stumped.

I got my order in 4 sa10s will be here someday soon !!! just excited and now i must go buy some MDF and start a box build stay tuned this may become a build thread soon thanks that is all Reggie

Hey all, Ok long story short my buddy came across 2 12" jl audio w6's and the voice coils were blown... he gave them to me thinking i would be able to do somethin with them... 3 months have past and im still sittin on some paper weights... In everyones honest opinion how much could i sell these subs for?

I did some research and here's what i'm thinking of putting in my grand prix. Headunit - Pioneer DEH-P7700MP 6x9's - Pioneer 5-way TS-A6991R 460w (80rms) or TS-D901P 350w rev series (60rms) 6 1/2's - Pioneer TS-D161R 260w (60rms) Subs - 2x P312D4 1000w (500w rms) was thinking T2's but that's overkill Amp for my high's - P4004 100w x4 (gets more but don't need it) Amp for my subs - P8002 (should net me 500w rms to each sub) Anything you'd change? Reasoning? Box suggestions? Edit: upon further research a P2002 should net me near 60w per speaker instead of using a 4 channel P4004

I'm looking for a tool that will allow me to cut the holes for the speaker, the terminal on the side and also some sanding to smooth the edges. If someone could point me in the direction of some affordable drill attachments and sanders to finish this job, that would be awesome! Thanks, Mo

As the title read's need some Ideas on fixing things that are getting damaged but fixing them in way the the problem wont return. Part I am interested in finding a permanent repair for.

Simple question i can't find the answer to. So, if i have an amp that does 100w per channel, does the 100 get split between tweet, and mid? will the mid and tweet both get 100w or would the 100w be split between them?

I've been going back and forth on what to do with these midrange speakers I bought. I had planned to build a 3 way component set. I have a memphis m class 6.5 with focal 1" tweeter and a focal cross over I was going to use up front. But I'm thinking of mounting the closed back mid range on the door with a mounting ring. Running the comp set in factory locations with crossover off the front channel and midrange off the rear channel with a rca split from the front. It's fq response is 300hz-8khz I beleive without going out to look. Using the amps cross over to set it at 300hz, and running the comp set off the front channel crossed at 80, and lastly the sub (vfl 8) crossed a…

I haven't installed anything in a year, but my buddy needs an experienced mind. He's got an eighth gen civic si, and would like to replace the stock, 8" sub. He's up for complete removal, since he knows he won't get a true subwoofer-type sound without an enclosure or sealing the trunk. Now, it needs to be extremely stealth (carpeted box, all black, tucked in the corner, no visible wires anywhere). He's dead-set on a type-r and an alpine 500W amp to match. I'll set him up with some black knu wiring, too. Two options I've thought of for the box: -Sealed, cut to the shape of the rear, side of the trunk, carpeted, with a grille. -bandpass, carpeted, ported up and to…

I have no headunit, no need for a $50 harness but after having no chimes for the first time today I realized this means no blinker noise or low gas warning. I'd like to restore that, but it would be the ONLY output I'd need from the harness making me not want to buy one. Of course, if the signal is only over the CAN bus and has no analog counterpart it'll cost me something, but was curious if anyone has rednecked a good solution? And yes, I'll still have a stereo in the Escalade (2010) but it'll be a carputer and no headunit.

I hear it said but don't know what it means. Anyone able to enlighten me. Karl

I am rebuilding my system and am going to start with my front stage. I have a 2004 Chevy Tahoe and listen mostly to rock, rap, and trance. It will be a daily driver and I am focused on SQ for the time being. I will be purchasing a pxa-h701 so I can run a 3 way active front stage and sub if I have the need to. I am also taking into consideration a 2 way front if that will work better. I have decided on kicks for the highs and mids, and the door for the midbass, but they will be crossed low. If I do a two way, I will just do the kicks. I need some recommendations for speakers, but I have been looking at HAT, Morel, Dayton, and Scanspeak. I am especially interested in…

Ok well I have a roll of rammat (60 sq feet) and want to do my trunk as well as the two front doors. I know I will have to use it sparingly so I wanted to get some suggestions on where in the trunk I should put it. Here are some pics of my trunk stripped down. Also should I do where the spare tire goes or should I just put it around that? Entire trunk: Lid: Right side: Left side:

Asset sale puts frustrating close to Phoenix Gold saga The Portland Business Journal - by Aliza EarnshawBusiness Journal staff writer Struggling audio equipment maker Phoenix Gold International Inc. has found a buyer, but some long-suffering shareholders stand to be wiped out. Phoenix Gold managers told investors at last week's annual meeting that the company plans to sell its assets for not much more than its estimated liquidation value. Those attending the meeting were not told who is buying Phoenix Gold, only that the buyers are not current company managers. The proposed deal could put an end to Phoenix Gold's often tumultuous history as a public company. The once-pr…

Wheres the cheapest you have seen them online? I might be interested in running those for my upcoming build if the price is right.