General Audio

heres the situation..from my battery under the hood to the back of my truck is about 10 feet..but im giving a extra 3 feet better to have more then less..and im also running 2 batteries under the hood with 2 batteries in the back..now keep in mind i have never installed my own stuff ive always had people i know and trust do it..so im just buying the wires for them..so by my calculations i should need somewhere around 25-30 feet of 0 guage wire to fulfill this project? by the way the 2 batteries in front will be about 4 feet apart from each other..1 on each side and in the back the other 2 batteries will be next to each other.and there will be 2 amps back there has well..c…

Installed all of my wiring today, and I had a bit of a problem. I have the gain at about 1/4 until tomorrow, when I'll set it properly. The sub is getting power, I know that for a fact. When music is playing, I can hear a slight murmur of the beat. The bass remote to my AQ2200D constantly displays the red "clipping" light, but I find it odd that the "power" light is not lit up. I'm almost certain from viewing similar problems that the responses I will get are, "quadruple check your wiring!!", but I did that before it all was installed. If there are no other options, I'll pull everything out and check once more, but I doubt this is the case. Does anyone know a possible pro…

Because of the price of the two local audio shops to get a true custom enclosure built, everyone any anyone is getting cookie cutter boxes from them. IE, preprogramed into their saw for their vehicle, or, even cheaper, basically prefab w/o the actualy fabrication. Better than prefab but unless the T/S params lend themselves to the given volume/tuning and the box is tuned to the owners ears, they end up unsatisfied. I've already done a few boxes for people around school and they have been extremely satisfied. I recive complements almost daily on "so and so's" box. But these where mostly close friends and i charged very little. My question is, how much should i charge to ma…

Anyone know where I can buy a pair of trim rings for some 10" subs?

me and my buddy are thinking about doing a 8 inch sub build for his older brother as a surprise so i was wondering if you guys know or have any problems with these two companies or subs for that matter, also if anyone has any amp or box suggestions, it would be much appreciated. thanks

I'm looking to upgrade my electrical in my RSX.. I have a khc1400 up front and khc2000 in the rear and don't have space for anymore batteries!! I want to ge a good 270amp alternator, will this be wise to do with only one battery in the rear? Rite now I gotta zx2500 on a DD 9518g.. Looking to upgrade to a bigger amp maybe a VFL 500.1 (all daily listening..no competition)

I've been sitting on the gear in my sig below for the past 3-4 months waiting on the box to arrive, which did about a week ago. I'm relatively new to the car audio scene. I know quite a bit, yet have little to zero hands on experience. My last sub was done by Best Buy just to shed a little light on my ignorance. I have a brand new car and don't want to be screwing things up, but it looks like I have to now. I went to Sound Concept in Nanuet, NY to show off what equipment I had to be installed to the owner. He said he'd give me a quote, which I expected to be about $750 AT THE MOST. He then quotes me for around $1,300-$1,900 and it blew my freaking mind. As he tallied up l…

seen this http://www.shockeraudio.net/products.html on PWK forums and had to share! Hopefully their as good as the OG sigs.

My amp's been kicking into protect for no known reason, I've checked every possible connection and wire, and undervoltage is impossible, this is an Atomic 800.1 with a Battcap 2000 in the trunk of my car. I put in a tone cd playing 60hz, put a DMM on the 200 AC voltage setting, touched + and - respectively on the amp outputs then turned the HU up until the amp shut down and we're reading 8.4 volts before shutdown 8.4 x 8.4 = 70 watts am I correct or have I completely lost it? Please don't just jump on me for using a DMM, I know it's not the best way, it's just the most accessible way for me to find wtf is going on.

I just finished installing my first amped set of components, and i have a few problems. The components are being ran bridged from a 4 channel (channels 1+2 and channels 3+4) The gain is matched to the head unit voltage (2 volts), and the ssf is being used as the hpf for the comps and the switch on the amp is set to "full". The rca's are hooked up as followed: Front left @ hu to ch1 @ amp Front right to ch2 back left to ch3 back right to ch4 I used this same head unit (alpine cda-105) with my "old" system without the components but with a subwoofer. There were no problems with the system then. I am using the same ground in the rear that i have been using for my sub amp. I …

Hey everyone, me and a few others on Ecoustics are getting a little get together worked out right now. We have a place in York PA (eastern PA right above the MD/PA border) that we can do it at right now. But we might change the location to a place like Wilmington DE. The date we should be having it will be March 15th. Nothing is official to say just yet but we should have everything locked in place hopefully by mid to late this week. We have a guy coming out who is bringing his AC mic although he said something about bringing a TL but I'm not sure if he has one or not. He said he is going to charge a little fee to get metered. We aren't looking to have this thing be a com…

Ok... so when I started this build, it was on a budget and kinda rushed along. My hearing isn't that great anymore after years of drumming in a metal band, so I didn't want to go too far. My current setup is powered by a Kenwood amp pushing 40x4 and 300x1 at 4ohm. I really love it....but since installing these 2 Dcons, my front stage just ain't hangin. Let me say.... I can't imagine some of these setups u guys have. These 2 Dcons are bangin on only 300. Plenty for me, with my hearing loss and all. I'm running Polk db651's front and rear, with Kicker 4" in the dash off the head unit. Think going the bridged route at 100x2 would be better, and lose the rears...since they ba…

Im looking to do a whole electrical upgrade to prep for a fi sp415 strapped to a 3000 watt amp (Thinking maybe crescendo or hifonics). My question is what size alternator do you think would efficient. Im struggling finding any good info on high output alternators. I plan to big 3 and maybe get a second battery depending on if i need one. Oh ya the car is a 2002 accord. 2.3l

I have a 2011 extended cab chevy silverado and plan on taking out the back seats and doing a box and keeping it under the back window and was wondering what the best setup would be. I will be running around 2-3k watts havent decided on amp yet but that will be the power range. My main questions are what will be best to do 4 15s or 8 12s or one 18 and also which way to fire the subs and the port. Any input or suggestions would be great thanks!

I got a new 2012 ford escape and I want to put my sa12s in it. Factory premium door speakers sound great, I just need my subs for the bass. How should I go about getting the turn on and input wired up? It's a new car so I'm afraid to do anything...

ok im in a dilemma, i am trying to figure out which box to use for a d915d2 being powered by a US AMPS ax1000de at 1 ohm. I have run some figures and made some graphs using WIN isd and have them for you to look at. i am going for the best SQ but spl is an issue to. i do like to thump. if anyone can help me analyse this information and decide which enclosure you believe to be best for me (vented, or sealed). the went will be a square 3x16x39, and will be following these specifications http://www.diamondaudio.com/products/pdfs/...Vented%2005.pdf it is already facotred in on the graphs and the other specs are here http://www.diamondaudio.com/products/pdfs/...ch%20Sheet2.pdf…

i have a duralast gold 1000ca 850cca 115 reserve its new about 1 1/2 months old. and a 90 amp alt want to get a second bat what should i get. any suggestions would be great!

hello all, my name is Marco, this is my first posting. I have recently gotten my hands on a DD 9515g d2. I've never had a sub this massive and i've never used aero ports. Im a DIYer to the max, which is why i created this thread. My purposes with this sub is for DAILY ""SQL"". Im working with either a SAE-1000 or my old MTX 1501d and hope it will run at 1ohm after my BIG 3 upgrade, either one will suffice. So here's my project. Im building a middle console box for my full size Chevy ext. cab. I've already done one in my old standard cab fullsize with a 2512 d4 with the 1501d on it and it the output was incredible. Im gonna try to get 4 cubes with ports i…

Looking on advice as to what to look at first for this issue.. Basically out of nowhere I have no sub output or midbass output. ED components on a nine.4 and ED sub on a nine.2.... Not sure why I'd lose midbass and sub output and yet the tweeters are fine... Any suggestions on where to start looking?

I just got my Fi Q12 and my Cadence TXA-100d amp yesterday and proceeded to hook it up in my Exploder. It is a 2ohm DVC sub which means that if I wire it in parallel it would be a 1 ohm load, right? I wired it according to this http://img168.imageshack.us/img168/...hmto1ohm7rq.jpg diagram. When I hooked the amp up, I just removed my old amp and hooked all the wires up to where they are supposed be on the new one. One would think that this shouldn't cause any problems, but it did. I can't get any noise out of the sub. I also have a PG amp powering my front and rear speakers. The power wire goes from the battery to the Cadence amp to the PG amp. The remote goes from the HU …

Right now I have 2 E8's but its just not enough, so I

a buddy of mine is doing a wall in a dakota with four of either 12s and each sub will be seing around 2 cubes without port and tuned to 30 hz with 350 watts rms to eahc sub. he listens to rap most of the time. also he's looking to be hitting some higher scores. jw which would perform better in this application. thanks

Hey, I just bought a whole bunch of twisted speaker wire for my install. 8-16AWG http://www.knukonceptz.com/productMaster.c...Speaker%20Kable I have no idea how I splice it to be able to attach female disconnects or screw the individual wire into adapters.

I have a powerbass xs15d2 and I've been hearing a rattle. So I inspect the sub and the basket is loose from the upper plate. This would be a defect not user error correct? Also the sub still plays fine and don't rattle while playing music parked but only rattles when I hit a bump or dip in the road. Should I use it till it get replaced? Any suggestion are appreciated.

Buy a sony 12" component sub XSL124P5B and a sony stereo Model #: SON CDXGT320 for around 250$. And then buy four 6x9 pioneer speakers for i dont know how much. Would this system even work ? What would i need? I drive a 2000 f-150 lariot extended cab supercrew. And i am gonna buy at circuit city and i think they have free install near me would this be a total bad idea. i was thinking about music i would play, i mostly play hip-hop and rock so maybe slq? HELP MAE!