SPL & SQ / Fabrication

For years i have had this idea for a box design, i always asked others what they thought of the idea. Well here I am again yrs later wondering if some kid really good at box design would want to put it to the test. this is a totally sealed box design with a tube inside the box 1/4-1/2 of the box volume and same diameter as your drivers mount rim. this tube is just that a tube, a directional enforcer of the sound wave to the back of the full box. I was always told it was a stupid and fruity idea, any you kids wanna play around with it on a computer model and see what happens? maybe I am crazy but the idea to me is it would give a little more crunch on that SPL meter since …

Box should net 1.5 cubes, i was told to tune around 33 hz so i am in between sq and spl, im not looking to compete or anything, its an underseat box in my silverado (3 inch seat lift to gain space). I was told already here that best to face the port towards the rear pass door. My problem with that is that i have a maximum of 6x3 for port area there. Which is bare minimum for port area going by the "general rule of thumb" of 12-16 per cube, but ive read thats a load of junk. I tried winisd, it gave me a ridiculous port area. Im not sure what i did wrong but it came out over 100 sq inches. I did online calculators and got anywhere between 20 and 40 sq inches. So first off, …

I am doing (2) Sundown Sa 8v2's on a Cresendo B2000. The box is going to be a little over 1 Cubic foot and am looking to do an aero port. I want the tuning to be around 30-33hz and need to know how i would calculate the dimensions for the port. PLEASE HELP!!!!!!!!!!

Alright, so on my quest to get louder out of my trunk, I'm trying to really understand enclosure designs, and how different enclosure sizes effect response, output and other factors. Now I know the general basics, larger enclosures will be more efficient, smaller enclosures less efficient. But I guess I'm looking for some more in-depth information.

I have a non wall box for a 21 warden going in a 2 door blazer, I have two boxes saved as a design right now. Both are about 8cu after all displacements and have 120-130sq in of port. The box is set up for sub up port back. My question is, would having the port on the side vertically facing the hatch make any much difference then if the port was on the bottom running length wise horizontally facing the hatch. I know each vehicle is diff and theres no telling whats better, but figured maybe the way the air moved would be diff or somthing. Thanks for any help

alright, so i've been debating something here and i wanted to get your opinions on it. some of you may know that i have a Hummer H2 that i've been slowly putting together for an "SQ" style build. now i have been thinking about doing 6.5's components active in the front doors with the tweeters being in the factory A pillars pointing straight at each other, 5.25 components active in some kicks with with the tweeters also housed down there, 6.5's with the passive x-overs in the rear doors and some 4in midbass/mid range in the factory rear pillars and the fatory 8in. sub replaced with a Pro Audio 8in and i wanted to know how that sounded to you guys and your input on this set…

Building a box for wife's 2010 Jeep Wrangler 4 door. Leaning more towards a sealed box, but I can be convinced otherwise! Prefer SQL, then SPL. 12" GCON dual 2 ohm running off channel 5&6 on Leviathan amp. Size is not a big concern, but retaining the most possible usable space is warranted with the kids, their activities, and associated gear. I can figure out the dimensionson a sealed box, but haven't played amounted with ported dimensions yet. Outside of the build specs I have a couple of questions: Should I poly fill, or not, and if so, how much? I've read on the Jeep forums that down firing is preferred. Any special considerations going this route? Should I resi…

Last 4 years and last 7 boxes I have all used slot ports. I have never even looked into aeros before so I got a few questions and would like some support on what others have told me about them. As of right now I am using the torez calculator to try to help me with this. The box Im designing is for a 21 warden, I would like to have 115+ sq in of port for it tuned to low 30s. I have been told that flared ports somehow equal a bigger straight port, example I was told that a 6in flare would equal a 9in straight port. Im guessing the torez calculator goes by straight ports that are not flared. I am getting confused with all the diff info I have been given and would like any ki…

Im trying to make an enclosure for a single sa 12 but the only wood they sell out here is 18 mm thick mdf, I'm wondering how to compensate this into my cut sizes for the box I wanna build I wanna do 15 h x 17d x 22w with the port being 2" wide and tuned to 32 hertz any suggestions?

Hey there! I need serious help building a ported box. Ive never had, nor built a ported box and i want to see for myself what the difference is. Ive tried every different box calculator i can find, but im sad to say there a little too complicated for me to understand. Im a rookie when it comes to car audio specs. Im a pro at listening tho lol. I want to learn more, a lot more, but everyone close to me dont want to teach, they want to charge. i could easily build a sealed box, but i really want to port my subs. I have 2 lethal injection 12's. I need 4 cubes, 60 square inches of port and i want it tuned at about 32hz. Space is not an issue. I took the back seat out of my ra…

I was simply wondering what is some of the different types of Building Material are the best? I know the word best is subjective, but in this scenerio, weight is not an issue. Of course, I could simply double up on 3/4 MDF, and do some well bracing, I'm aware of that. But I'm also aware that, the material your using can greatly alter the output. Thats the main reason extreme vehicles use concrete. I am not willing to use concrete. I know I said weight is not an issue, but thats a bit much, plus would put me into the extreme class. The reason I'm asking, is because this will be my burp enclosure. I've heard of some competitors using marble, and other hard/rock like materia…

I know those precision sound ports from parts express are pretty popular so i am thinking someone might have an answer for me when using the psp flared port length calculator (http://www.psp-inc.com/tools.html) is the "flare length port required" from the ends of the flared portion of the port? or is it the straight length portion that the flared ends connect to? thanks in advance

Hey all.I was wondering if my port is to close to my rear hatch.My friends and I both seem to think my system should be louder and I seem to think that it might be my port being to close to my rear hatch and not having enough room to breathe.My system consists of a DC 5k and 4 10" DC lvl 3 m2 subs with the level 4 upgrades.My enclosure was made by DC Creations and is 4.5 cubes after displacments (I believe) and tuned to 33hz.Here is a pic of what im talking about with the port.I can take a better pic if need be.So what im wondering is if I flip the box around with the port facing into the cabin instead of towards the hatch,would it help out any or would a enclosure with s…

I have 2 Sundown SA-15s and i plan on building a new box to make them perform better. The usable space i have is: Height: 21" Depth: 28" Width: 36.5". How big would you guys make it, what port area, and tuning. It's a daily driver no spl but i would prefer it LOUD

My setup is gonna be 1 Fi audio BL 15" dual 2 ohms. what should i tune my box to so i get maxim SPL!!!

Hello everybody I'm new here. I worked as a car audio and alarm installer 15 years ago. I have not had a decent system since...well...a long time. I bought a 1997 Honda Odyssey and I really like the van. I'd like to build a nice system. Can you give me suggestions on what components to use for a nice simple front sound stage that focuses on sound quality? I like "vocally" music. I also like dubstep and house music. I really like vocally dubstep. I also listen to talk-radio. I am thinking I am going to use a SSA DCON or GCON for bass. Maybe a SKAR 800.1 for a sub amp. I have no idea what components to use for the mids and highs. The head unit is a JVC KD-X50BT. I bought th…

Designing a new enclosure for a Fi Q18. I want to be sure that sub placement would not cause any issues with unloading thru the port or odd loading issues off the port wall. It is only a single sub, so I dont believe the loading off the port wall would be an issue. Here is a quick sketch up of the enclosure. The guide mark is the mounting depth, and is approx 4" from the back plate to the port wall. I would prefer center placement just for aesthetics but functionally I believe the position closest to the exterior port vent and above the port wall may be the best bet. Thanks for any insight

ok, i done a trunk build but ports not tuned right and i want to get lower and louder so im going to be removing the rear seat in my 95 fleetwood and thats where the box shall go. i want to keep it at window line so these are my max measurements to work with height 23" depth 26" width 56" height really needs to be 22"-23" but the width and depth can be smaller if need be, with those specs its around 16.5 cubes before subs and port, i want to be tuned around 32-33hz for rap music whats the best size box for this application, please help, any help is mucho appreciated

I want my subs to face up with the port up like one of my previous boxes. I cant seem to get a lot of input and like Ive said previously the pro designers dotn wanna mess with a camaro enclosure. Assuming ive done my math correctly does this look like a suitable enclosure? I just started using sketchup so I have figured everything out so nothings 45'ed or anything.

I am in the process of redoing my front stage. It will be an active three way. My head unit is a Pioneer DEX-P99RS and my amplifier for my front stage is an Arc Audio KS900.6. My goals for my front stage is to have excellent mid bass and to create a realistic soundstage with excellent imaging. To kick of my install I started with the midbass. I currently have a Viper 650.2 component set (running active) installed for midrange/tweeter duties. I will be replacing the Viper set. My midbass install consists of Dayton Audio RS225-4 drivers mounted in very tiny (.2-.3^3ft) sealed enclosures with ScanSpeak flow resistors. The ScanSpeak flow resistors are AP mats about 4" in diam…

Hey guys! Just made a video showing how to create a subwoofer enclosure in Google Sketchup! Go ahead and check out the video and let me know what you think!

After searching for a place to put my tweeters with no luck I've decided some custom fabrication must be done. I've never done anything like this. I plan to have some type of pod in the bottom of the a pillar ontop of the dash for the crescendo ft1 tweeters. What material should I use and how is it done? http://i68.photobucket.com/albums/i38/snaimpally/Pod9.jpg Something like that.

Okay, so I had two questions: How does inverting your subwoofers affect SPL/""SQL"" if at all? & How would I go about making one side of my enclosure plexi-glass? (how to secure it to the box) Just asking because I've never done either before and was thinking about one or the other for my next build. Thanks guys!

Ok, so now I'm hooked. I have the 2 12" zcon's in and the 2500d. Now I want more. Have an eye on a ns-1. What will I need to do for a competition box? Keep in mind that I do have a s-10 extended cab 3 door and it is a daily driver that I want to make into a competition truck. Current box is supposedly 4.75^3 at 36hz? I think the hz is correct. Have to double check. It was designed by ram-designs. It's a angled back or trapezoid style box. Top is 14x43, bottom is 20x43 and it is 18 tall. I come uP with 5.4^3 after sub displacement. What do I need to do? What is the difference in a comp box vs a ported box?

Pic of specs (or really close to, but hows the design, first ever, opinons, ideas, positive feeback.... will it work?? lol thanks guys!!