SPL & SQ / Fabrication

Ok well I have a few questions when it comes to the proper way to decide on the amount of port are that you should use when it comes to designing ported boxes and 4th order enclosures . I have been hearing mixed " opinions " when it comes to picking the amount of port area needed . The most common way I have heard about is staying in between 12 - 16 sq inches of port per cube. Which in my opinion is not a very accurate way to design an enclosure . The other way that have been told is that you adjust your port area according to the xmax or linear max on your woofer. Which sounds to be a more accurate way in to better suit a build. So if anyone knows the actual proper way t…

I'm more of an aspiring SPL guy, I don't know it all but I know a fair deal, regardless thats my personal focus. SQ is pretty much new to me, but I've got a guy with a 250 wanting a competitive SQ car a local shop is wanting to charge him out the rear in labor, I'm pretty confident I could do whatever needed to his truck. I'm just curious where to go with it. It sits now with Focal K2P doors, Focal Access rears, Alpine 4.150PDX amp, 2x12" Pioneer slims behind the rear seats powered by a PDX 600.1 and a JL 10" woofer in the center console powered by a JL 250.1 amp processed through a Kenwood DNX7100. He wants to move the K2P fronts to the rear and put focal utopia 3 ways …

i just got paid, and have 70 dollars to spend, so which is a good palm sander, and where to find it thanks

What is the most accurate sub box calculator tuning and everything

Hi guys, out of the 18 years and over 10 systems I have only had a ported box once. Well I have decided to give it a try and am going to build my own ported enclosure. I can say there are a few things iI need to know. I am building an enclosure for a 15" sub for the trunk of a 2001 pontiac grand prix gtp, so height can't be over 16". I want the enclosure to work for my current sub but be able to put the subwoofer im going to buy later in it. I plan to buy either a DD 2515, DC level 3 or 4, or SSA xcon. For now i have an Alpine mrd-m1005 amp. I am going to get a bigger amp later as well because i like to over power subs a bit so i can get loud for local drags and so I coa…

Pardon the dust, under construction Hey guys! Have you ever seen panels in installs like this and wondered how in the world did they get those shapes? Well with a series of router tips and tricks, you can start with literally any shape drawn on paper (shown on left), and transform it into a perfectly fabricated wooden template that you can then copy several times into future installs. (Shown on right). Take your installs to the next level with these shaped panels that you can use for hiding amps and crossovers, trimming around speakers, making amazing port shapes, the possibilities are endless! Let's get down to the nitty gritty: What you Need: Safety First! Make sure…

Well my Frianken DP isnt working out to im selling my e12a, my BX1205D, and adding some cash in to see what i can come up with for an SPL driver. I can budget around $350 total. I have a USamps MD2D for power (2000w@1ohm nominal) and i want to run in Street B. This means i am restricted to two 12's or a single 15 (or x ammount of 10's but im not going to play that game). 2 12's need to be D4 or S2 and a single 15 needs to be D2 or S4. Or if its really SPL oriented it needs to be wired to 1ohm (or slightly lower) nominal in the end. Any suggestion would be much appreciated.

guys im building a box just for the hell of it..its going to be a sealed box and i just want to see if i can do this because im sick of paying $250+ to have others do it for me..the size of the box will be 2.5 cu.ft..so if you guys can list what i will need to get this done besides nails,hammer,glue, also what kind of glue do you guys like? i really hope i can pull this off...thanx guys

I am planning on running 2 15" HDC3s (copper) and im either planning on doing a slot port in 8cubic ft tuned to 36hz with 2 AQ2200 OR I've been thinking about doing a wall, about the same size or bigger, tuned to the same (i think) -- I'm thinking the wall will give me more output/power??? - thats what i need to know I have a 86 s15 and this would be my first time for a wall, so i dont have a lot of info/knowlage on walls. -im rushing to go to class, i know im lackin info and mispelled words thanks dom

I haven't seen much on center consol builds and what I have found people seem to frown on them, but my brother has always wanted to build a custom center consol for his truck. Its a 2006 Chevy Silverado extended cab. He now has my old equipment and we are going to start on it. The sub will be a 12" death. It will fit between the two front seats, firing towards the rear of the cab. The center consol will be built all the way to the bottom of the dash, so the required airspace won't be a problem. The only thing I'm really not sure on is how to run the ports. We could build it so that the port either fires towards the driver side/passenger side of the truck, or both. …

As the title says...I have 14.25 cubes available. I want to run 2 zcon 18's. I don't know anything at all whatsoever about designing a box. With that said, after subtracting driver displacement, port displacement, and bracing, will I have enough room? If not I have a Zcon 18" Dual 2 for sale lawl

hey guys i'll follow mklett's pattern Vehicle : 2012 chevy cruze Location in the vehicle: trunk Space available (Length x Width x Height): 36x16x24 Subwoofer make and model: american bass xfl Subwoofer Size: 10 Number of Subwoofers: 2 or 3 Type of Port (Kerfed, Slot, Aero, etc.): slot or aero What type of music do you like?: mostly hip hop/rap but also rock Is your goal SPL or Everyday Music?: everyday Tuning Freq (Hz): 33-35 Volume :??? Questions: i'm trying to figure out the best possible orientation, size, port, and tuning for this car. i have a prefab ported box for 2 tens that i've had in the car for 2 weeks and have played it firing into car with it sealed off using…

Ok I have an 08 atima coupe and just redone my trunk floor for new box. Anyway I have 3.7-4.4cuft (internal box volume) to play with, I'm pretty sure a round port isn't going to work and not sure how to go about a slot or sqaure port. I know I need around 52in of port area for 32 to 33hz but I'm just stuck due to my box shape which I uploaded a picture of. any suggestions would be great.

So my game plan is to do 2 twelves facing front with port facing driver side rear fender area. The box width is going to be just wide enough to accommodate the subs so a little more than 25" but would it be better to have the height about the same as the subs or would it matter, in terms of SPL? If it's around 13.5" (internal height 12") then I wouldn't be able to stack the 4" aeros. If it's 15" then I can stack them but to me, I feel as though the more streamlined shape of the other box would allow for higher SPL. The taller enclosure would be shorter on depth too, obvioulsy. I could also just be thinking about this way too much but whatever

Vehicle : 2007 chrysler sebring Location in the vehicle: trunk Space available (Length x Width x Height): 37 wide x 32 length x 13 height i can get larger just would have to build inside trunk. Subwoofer make and model: Zcon D1 Subwoofer Size: 12 Number of Subwoofers:1 Type of Port (Kerfed, Slot, Aero, etc.): slot or aero What type of music do you like?: dubstep and decaf Is your goal SPL or Everyday Music?: most of my listening is everyday music decaf and dubstep. Tuning Freq (Hz): not sure Volume : currectly around 7 gross Questions: I have 2 zcons and am thinking of going to 1 due to rebuild thoughts. I need to give these subs more space and not sure i can do that w…

Hi i'm new to SSA forums but been around for a while on others. Who has run any type of isobaric set up before? The low end is efforless and immense and all from a smaller enclousere. Also the smaller cab plays the higher freqs really well and just makes for a very flat output over the whole range whilst still staying controlled. Basicly the iso' only makes use of the extra motor and has no real use of the other cone. Or even the other basket for that matter although the other basket make the whole rig easier to mount. I am thinking about a dual motor design and just simply linking the the 2 motors by extending the the formers so they meet. Who thinks this is a good idea…

im looking to build a ported box for 2 12'' chaos .does anybody have any designs that would be easy to make? im putting it in 98 explorer so it can be a pretty decent size

I Just got a pair of Eclipse 8062 6.5" mid-bass's with there crossovers, and no tweeters for $60. I thought it was a good deal so i got them, I needed a upgrade from my polk db 4x6's. I tried the eclipse out in the house in a quickly made box and they sounded great, but I cannot get them to fit in the car where they will be completely sealed like they need to be. My speaker holes are 4x6" on the top of my dash facing the windshield in each corner (I will post pics). I need help figuring out a good solution to where they will sound good and look kinda decent in the car. I can't put them in the doors and i am not allowed to do any permanent modifications to this car. So wha…

Hey guys I have a Fi BL 15" fully loaded woofer on the way. I will be building my box very soon here. I'm going to be running a Sundown 1500 D amp to it. I will listen mostly to low HZ rap or bass songs. I am looking for 32 HZ. Few questions: - Can someone give me some measurements for a ported box that is meant specifically for a BL 15" with 1500 RMS going to it? - I have read that this sub woofer recommends a 3-5 cu ft box. Does leaning towards 5 cu ft box have any benefits in SPL? -Any internal box bracing necessary with 3/4 " MDF wood? - Any cotton material necessary inside the box? Thank you

yup, the shit's still in the ceiling and it's gonna stay there. if you need to hear the drummer strait ahead and back 7 feet, the back up singer come 3 feet deep from 7 feet from your right, lead guitar and vocalist strait ahead yadda yadda... if you're all about staging, imaging, using time delay, phase, and EQ.... GOOD FOR YOU! I like it loud and clear. it is loud and clear. I like a ton of midbass and a ton of high treble and easy on the low treble and easy on the midrange. So this thing has come a long way, I now have: Alpine IVA-W505 touch screen DVD player so that I can use the touch screen to control the digital Alpine PXA-H701 crossover/processor. I have (2) Kick…

So I'm trying to make a center console and I'm going to put some 6.5 evils in both sides of it. Seeing is the mids are facing back to back should I put a divider between them? Is it going to call his cancellation if I don't? If I do or don't should I be putting polyfill inside this also?

Designing a new enclosure for a Fi Q18. I want to be sure that sub placement would not cause any issues with unloading thru the port or odd loading issues off the port wall. It is only a single sub, so I dont believe the loading off the port wall would be an issue. Here is a quick sketch up of the enclosure. The guide mark is the mounting depth, and is approx 4" from the back plate to the port wall. I would prefer center placement just for aesthetics but functionally I believe the position closest to the exterior port vent and above the port wall may be the best bet. Thanks for any insight

I remember talking to shizz and a few other box builders on here and they all said "if the box is built well enough, no bracing is needed". Well is this true? I am working on a new box for my 15" - 38"w, 18"d, 16"h. I dont think I need bracing for a single 15" in that box, but I could be wrong (its a little oer 4.5 cuFt with port tuned to 32hz). I have been looking at other posts for people building their box and its either hit or miss for who does what with bracing. The one I just finished looking at is using bracing for a smaller box so once again, I am not sure. Forgot to add in - I will be putting a DC Level 5 15" in the box being powered by a 3500D

I have seen a few posts on here recently about trunk cars and the difficulties that some have experienced with their sub bass system. I think this may help. There are a few primary problems that are encountered when we install subwoofer enclosures into a sedan type vehicle with a trunk. The most obvious problem is the reduced amount of bass in the main listening cabin. The next possible problem is that there is more bass with the trunk open than when closed. A third problem is the excessive rattling of the trunk body panels. Proper damping will greatly reduce the vibrating body panels and yield slightly higher SPL in the vehicle, but will not resolve the other issues inh…

I want to make some MDF speaker rings that look something like this: But I want the 6.5 and tweeter to fit flush with the mount. Should I just use two pieces of 1/2, and make the inside ring the mounting diameter, and the top piece the outside diameter of the speakers, then glue them together? I may just have to do some experimenting. I'm going to try and mount them in the door in place of the stock 5x7s. I've been thinking of fiberglassing them into the doors, and I probably will in the future, but I just need something temporary right now since the XXX 6.5s will be here tomorrow, along with my BTL. All I'm waiting on to build my sub box is two 3/4"x9"x18" pieces of ple…