SPL & SQ / Fabrication

I am building a box for 2 SA-12's for the trunk of my altima. I want to have a square port between the 2 subs on the front of the box, looking somewhat like this: O | O sub port sub Using 3/4" MDF and outside dimensions, my box's height can only have ~ a height of 16.5", a width of 33", and a depth of 16.5" (however, the depth can be altered a good bit if needed) I need to know what dimensions to make the port and the dimensions of the box itself if anyone could help. Thanks.

For those of you that have pondered about getting a sponsorship and dont know how, or some of you that think you deserve one, here are a few helpful hints. #1 Accomplish something. Are you a nobody? Have they heard of you? Do you get noticed? #2 Sell yourself. If you cant sell yourself to them, how are you gonna sell their product? #3 Hold your tongue. I can guarantee you that there isnt one company out there that will sponsor a loudmouth s.o.b. that just makes negative scenes in public or on public forums. As a sposored competitor, you are representing the company. #4 Make a game plan. What comps are you going to? Do you show off your ride or just put a blanket…

Sorry if this has been asked before but if I decide to get a loud exhaust system is it worth it if my system is my main priority and by is it worth it I mean will it take a full shop pack of deadner for it not to affect my system?

** Coles notes: 12" BTL (D2, loaded, Daily). Maximum Dimensions: 31" x 16" x 18". Want to hit the lows better. ** What is required to build a box specifically for lows. Larger box? More/less port area?.........etc. I had a BL last year, and have "upgraded" to a BTL this year. I have two boxes that were used with the BL, one built by Thumper and another I did myself. The PTS box is tuned to 32, I think mine might be tuned lower, not really sure. Used subwoofertools.com back in the day, and it told me it was 32Hz after displacement. It's 27" x 16" x 18" with port 14.5" x 2.5" x ~33". 3/4 MDF. When I put those dimension in RE Calculator it comes up with 29.81Hz (before dis…

I am currently looking for the best method or material that can be used inside an SPL based enclosure that can help get an extensive increase in pressure. Lots of people do different things but most follow others... Typical things tried is- sanding wood, applying resin, resanding, resin over, etc.... Ceramic tiles. Using heavy material such as marble or granite(not what i'm looking for). I am looking to find out if sanding and resining is what should be done, OR.. if laying material inside of an enclosure will yield better results. sanding and resining can lead to human error with imperfections in the smoothness and this is why i'd like to see if there are materials out …

ill let the pics tell the story Many Thanks too Pierce Audio Products for the Comps

Figured these could get their own thread, so if anyone else wanted to join in, we'd have a place... Dave, in the center...placating the crowd around the Magnum, as there often is one Teh van in the lane, getting ready for the SQ test and SPL run. How the testing area was set up. Chad's dual Mag D2's...pretty asses Kevin's car getting ready, with the team from NC testing. Dave's doing...something. Beats me. The other Chad's amp rack/battery rack...the drill adds deebeez Motivation for Bucky. He's quiet. The guys from NC with an 18" Solo X And c'mon...a car audio show without the local fuzz showing up is..well, no fun at all Bucky is a menace to society...th…

Okay so i already had a box designed before but i wanted to try it all on my own...thanx to the12volt.com box and port calculator i figured out a simple box i can build...here are the specs BOX: W-47" H-25" D-28" PORT: W-30" H-5" D-10" The box will be 16.4cu ft and it will be tuned to 35hz...the port will be facing back with subs fired up/inverted...

So heres the deal I need someone to design a Transmission Line for one of my ICONS!! I have decided I want to start playing with a variety of different boxes. It will be a single 12in Icon or we could even do a Horn design which ever fits lol. It will be in my Hatch! So whos up for the challange I can get you Dims... I could also shoot you $5 dollars via paypal if you like..

Hey fellas, I'm looking to change box design. I want it to be port forward. The dimension I have available is 32"W x 12.5"H x 29"D. It is running on a bc2000. I am trying different boxes until I can get another xcon and have no experience with 4th order builds. It will be a 98 mustang trunk wall. If there are any details you need let me know as I have no knowledge of 4th order designs. Thank you to anybody who helps.

This is for a project I'm working on. I've only ever done a slot port once that didn't physically bend but that was on a really small enclosure. This port is physical length of 12.5" and 6" width. Is this acoustic length right? I'm used to a slot port having a second leg and just adding 1/2 of the port width. For this enclosure, if the acoustic length is right on the pic then it will make nearly a 10hz change in tuning. Kind of a big deal. Thanks!

I'm designing a box for a 10" sub to go behind the seat of my 1988 toyota pickup extended cab. I have an air compressor behind the drivers seat and I don't want to lose access to my jack and tools behind the passenger seat. The floor is uneven so it takes up a lot of volume. Here are pics of the area i have to work with. And here is a basic design i made on sketchup It is 1.66 cu ft before sub displacement and port. I'm looking at an fi ssd sub and a 1000w rms amp, but I'm open to other suggestions. The sub will be facing the front. I have a formula for tuning a port and I'll probably do a slot style port but I'm not sure where in the box to put the port or how much …

My setup is 2 dd3512e sub and port facing the back. The port is in the center between the 2 sub. I seen some setup with 2 12's with subs and port facing back but the port is towards one end of the box and not the center. Is there any benefit to having the port on one end instead on the center, this would be in a trunk setup? Which would be louder?

please list your equipment and your top numbers, what year that happened, what meter, etc, and maybe what you would like to see in the future.

Here is my dilema! I wanted an 18" BTL N2, BUT my malibu only has maybe 19" height in the trunk throughout. My dimensions to work with are something like 42 from wheel to wheel, 30 deep, and 19 Height. I am open to all opinions on what would be best. I REALLY want the BTL 18 but if everyone tells me 2-BTL 15s would be better I would obviously do that. I know the nightshade and SMDs like smaller boxes as well? I just bought a Sundown 2000d today sooo that will be my amp pushing w/e sub I get. I was also considering building the box out of the trunk and into the cabin therefore allowing the 18 or 2-18s to blow through the cabin in a wall type enclosure. Here are some pics …

i hate mdf and skilll saws..i meausured everything out and then i cut it and then it all ends up messed up.. i dont understand what i did grr i have to redue everything! i hate this

I'm looking to build a nice ported box for my L7 and make it loud. Problem is I really don't know much about ported boxes or the tricks to making a good SPL box. Kicker reccomends between 1.75 and 3.25 cu ft ported, but no tuning frequencys. The box will be sitting in the back seat of my 1990 extended cab Silverado. What would be differences between a round port and slot port, and what would be an optimal Frequency to tune it at. thanks for any advice, hopefully I can pull my ol' truck into s comp and put up some decent numbers

Hi, I was wondering if anyone has made or heard a sub placed between the front seats. I have a venture mini van. I can have about 1cf of space to work with (id). If you have done this or heard a setup like this please let me know what you thought. Thanks, Duane

I've been enjoying my old school set up, Powered by Old School Precision Power PC2150 for sub duty and a PC275 for my mids and highs, both amps are from 1997 never been repaired original void stickers still in tacked. I'm running 2 NOS 12'' Rockford Fosgate P1's, there the ones with a big plastic cover over the magnet, to make the magnets look big, sealed boxes. Let me tell you those subs sound incredible with those old school PPI amps. My head unit is an old school Alpine CDA - 7965 year 2001 sound quality deck, has no deck power, you can only use amplifiers with this deck. I'm running a Tsanmi 40 FARID CAP. I have a old school Audio Control cross over in the glove …

If have been thinking about this for too long and my brain is no longer able to figure this out on it's own Are L-pads ever used in a car audio application? I understand their use in a passive setup for home audio but what about an active setup in car audio? Hmmmmm adjusting the amplifier gain will not change sensitivity so an L-pad would be used to attenuate a higher sensitivity driver? Reason I am asking is that it can be difficult to match mid/tweeter/midbass sensitivities for an active 3-way setup. Let's say that the midbass and tweeter sensitivity is 88db 1w/1m (4 ohm). And that the midrange sensitivity is 91db 1w/m (8 ohm). I think 91db 1w/1m@8ohm is the same as …

hi, i have two 12's i made out of wmd motors (the tripple stacked ones) and mostly sig soft parts. like i said i have two of them and two 1500 watt rockford amps. this is going into my durango. i would like to hit high numbers with these. i have tons of room back there and a 2400 bat. i just need help designing a box. thank you all in advance!! eddie g

Ok, I got my first 15" sub today. All I've ever dealt with before are 10's and 12's. At the moment I have a pair of 12's in the back of my 97 Grand am, each one seeing 1.25 cubes sealed. The box is easy to work with, I can have the whole thing pulled out in a matter of minutes. I would like to have something similar with this 15. One problem....the clearance through the backseat is only 13.5 inches, I believe. The space to go in through the back isn't very easy to work with either. If I build a box that has the sub laying on it's back with the cone up, I really think I'll lose a lot of the potential from the sub that I would normally get from rear-firing it. Also, I …

I've got quite a lot going on right now if you cant tell, I've got a client's SQ truck and my personal SPL build going at the same time. I've got some great info from you guys on the SQ build so lets try some on my SPL build. Last year we took state records in USACi in Stock 1801-3001, since then we've been addicted to going bigger and louder. We want to be able to still play music so, no pure tones/burp set up. We've got the durango ripped to down to having nothing but a dash, being completely deadened up. The idea sits at building a wall behind the B pillars for 4 18" BTLs. Haven't decided on what to do to power them yet. We have more than enough room to give them all…

Hi, Been out of the game for a bit after selling my system, 2x15" SSA Icons in 7.2cubes net 32hz on Crescendo BC2000D. Anyways Im picking up 2 12" SSA Xcons for a crazy price and want to put them in my 03 Dodge 3500. I only want to lose 1 seat so dimensions are a bit tight. 32" tall x21" wide by 25" deep. I think I can get around 5 cubic feet net, (may be able to gain an inch or two on depth) question is how much port area should I aim for? They will be ran on low power, JL JX1000 for now so only 500rms each. Probably wont be adding much more as I dont have the money for electrical or space. if I aim for 70+ and around 5 cubic feet would that be ok? Thanks, Codester