SPL & SQ / Fabrication

im looking to build a ported box for 2 12'' chaos .does anybody have any designs that would be easy to make? im putting it in 98 explorer so it can be a pretty decent size

Well my Frianken DP isnt working out to im selling my e12a, my BX1205D, and adding some cash in to see what i can come up with for an SPL driver. I can budget around $350 total. I have a USamps MD2D for power (2000w@1ohm nominal) and i want to run in Street B. This means i am restricted to two 12's or a single 15 (or x ammount of 10's but im not going to play that game). 2 12's need to be D4 or S2 and a single 15 needs to be D2 or S4. Or if its really SPL oriented it needs to be wired to 1ohm (or slightly lower) nominal in the end. Any suggestion would be much appreciated.

This is for a project I'm working on. I've only ever done a slot port once that didn't physically bend but that was on a really small enclosure. This port is physical length of 12.5" and 6" width. Is this acoustic length right? I'm used to a slot port having a second leg and just adding 1/2 of the port width. For this enclosure, if the acoustic length is right on the pic then it will make nearly a 10hz change in tuning. Kind of a big deal. Thanks!

hey everyone, so, soon I will be getting a 1998 Jeep Grand Cherokee Laredo. I have the majority of my system ready to install. (please dont judge, i was not as educated when i bought this stuff) Rockford Fosgate P2 12" (2011 model) (it meh...), Rockford R500-1 amp (low efficiency, 58% @ 2 ohms) , Sony CDX-GT565UP (love it), and KnuKonceptz 4 gauge kit. right ow I have a crappy box to test with, its 1.72 cuft tuned to 31Hz via 4" aero. I will be building a 2-2.2 cuft box tuned to 32 once i am sure how i want the port and sub positioned. the current box i have the sub is on one side and the port on the other. so it will be easy to experiment how it will be positioned. my qu…

guys im building a box just for the hell of it..its going to be a sealed box and i just want to see if i can do this because im sick of paying $250+ to have others do it for me..the size of the box will be 2.5 cu.ft..so if you guys can list what i will need to get this done besides nails,hammer,glue, also what kind of glue do you guys like? i really hope i can pull this off...thanx guys

I'm designing a box for a 10" sub to go behind the seat of my 1988 toyota pickup extended cab. I have an air compressor behind the drivers seat and I don't want to lose access to my jack and tools behind the passenger seat. The floor is uneven so it takes up a lot of volume. Here are pics of the area i have to work with. And here is a basic design i made on sketchup It is 1.66 cu ft before sub displacement and port. I'm looking at an fi ssd sub and a 1000w rms amp, but I'm open to other suggestions. The sub will be facing the front. I have a formula for tuning a port and I'll probably do a slot style port but I'm not sure where in the box to put the port or how much …

I have a 2 door Acura Integra, which is a rather small car, and I have entered the IASCA SPL comp at Nopi, and I have a few questions about SPL, I've competed before, and even won a few trophies, but I am still rather new and would like to do better this year. First of all I'm debating on which woofer to use, I have a RL-p, which I dont think would be very good for SPL, so I was thinking of buying a Rockford Fosgate Team RF, they're rather expensive, but I hear they're really good for SPL. My debate is this though, I want to have the biggest advantage I can, and the IASCA has the classes set up in inches, which is hugely broad, like anything from one 8 to one 18 can compe…

I remember talking to shizz and a few other box builders on here and they all said "if the box is built well enough, no bracing is needed". Well is this true? I am working on a new box for my 15" - 38"w, 18"d, 16"h. I dont think I need bracing for a single 15" in that box, but I could be wrong (its a little oer 4.5 cuFt with port tuned to 32hz). I have been looking at other posts for people building their box and its either hit or miss for who does what with bracing. The one I just finished looking at is using bracing for a smaller box so once again, I am not sure. Forgot to add in - I will be putting a DC Level 5 15" in the box being powered by a 3500D

Sorry if this has been asked before but if I decide to get a loud exhaust system is it worth it if my system is my main priority and by is it worth it I mean will it take a full shop pack of deadner for it not to affect my system?

I have two DC audio xl 12s just built birch box after diplacment im setting at 4.03 cubes have good electric running skar 4500 so they are seeing 2200 to 2500 rms each here were i need a little help they will be in the back of 2014 Lincoln navigator i have material for 2 4” round ports were should i face subs and port location and whats the best tunning for these subs

I am planning on running 2 15" HDC3s (copper) and im either planning on doing a slot port in 8cubic ft tuned to 36hz with 2 AQ2200 OR I've been thinking about doing a wall, about the same size or bigger, tuned to the same (i think) -- I'm thinking the wall will give me more output/power??? - thats what i need to know I have a 86 s15 and this would be my first time for a wall, so i dont have a lot of info/knowlage on walls. -im rushing to go to class, i know im lackin info and mispelled words thanks dom

ok so im hopefully gonna get pix tomorrow and start my new build log. ill also get measurements of my hatch area tomorrow. i've got my 4ft3 box tuned at 33hz in my 93 lx mustang hatch right now and its just to big. it currently sets taking up half my backseat(folded down) and a 1/3 of the hatch area. reason for this is it wont slide back anymore in the hatch area cause the box hits rear window. saz-1500 is temporarely mounted to the backseat right behind front seats. so i need help on how to face my sub and port to get the max. loudness and airflow from my rf power hx2 15 while still being able to use my backseat for its intended purpose. also im set on 33hz for port tuni…

I need some help would u guys recommend a figerglass box and mdf or jus an mdf box I don't know much about mdf an fiberglass boxes it's for an 18" btl

I've got quite a lot going on right now if you cant tell, I've got a client's SQ truck and my personal SPL build going at the same time. I've got some great info from you guys on the SQ build so lets try some on my SPL build. Last year we took state records in USACi in Stock 1801-3001, since then we've been addicted to going bigger and louder. We want to be able to still play music so, no pure tones/burp set up. We've got the durango ripped to down to having nothing but a dash, being completely deadened up. The idea sits at building a wall behind the B pillars for 4 18" BTLs. Haven't decided on what to do to power them yet. We have more than enough room to give them all…

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Hi all I am looking for advice on a design for a single ported enclosure to carry a 13W7 sub. The enclosure would be sitting on the rear right hand seat, directly behind the driver (Right hand drive in Australia). There are a couple of things I need to clarify first... Is the recommended internal volume of 2.375 cubic foot too small for this sub? If so, what would be a better size. Here we only get 18mm thick MDF (about 0.71"), so to make the front baffle stronger, should I just glue and screw two together? - Will it start to rattle / vibrate loose? If I make the box to JL's specs of 2.375, I would have to change the outside dimensions of the box to be (19.7" x 19.7" x 17…

So, I'm set out to make a ported box for one 12" SSA DCON. I looked at all the specs, and here is what I have come up with: Width - 30 in. Height - 14 in. Top - 12 in. Bottom - 16 in. Wood - 0.75 in. thick Square port width - 1.5 in. Square port interior length - 9 in. This puts my Interior volume at 2.311 ft^3, and the tuning frequency at 28.28 Hz. This is about the best I can do with dimensions that can be easily cut, and that will fit my Scion tC. Do you guys have any suggestions? This is my first box I will be building, and I know all about the supplies, I just need to learn more about the dimensions of box building, as well dealing with the ported vo…

So I will be ordering an OA-12v2 D4 very soon after selling my current system (Upgrading from a Fosgate Punch P2 12, 2011 model). I have a Rockford Prime P500-1d to work with, so the sub will see just over 500 watts. I have read in many places that the more power, the smaller that the box can be, and the less power, the larger you can build the box... generally. So I was thinking of doing a 2.5 cuft enclosure for the OA, on the 500w. It will be going in the trunk of my 2000 Civic sedan, most likely sub back, port side. Does this sound appropriate? Is there another way I should approach this? The box will be tuned to 30Hz via 4" aeroport. Thank you for any help, and I apol…

I understand the physics of it, but Casey showed me the Pioneer Death Match winning truck that did deep into the 170's, can someone explain more? I want to understand about them, also when is it benificial to use one and when is it not? here is the pic of the wall

Curious, as anyone else seen a lot of box builders and designers using aero port areas equivalent to square or slotted port area? I was under the impression that the agreed upon rule of thumb was that you can use .56% less area while achieving like results. Within this practice, I find myself believing that if one were to use equal, that in theory, they are increasing their port area by, .56% I also lean toward this thought, if you correctly designed your enclosure and its port, based around the mathematics and t/s parameters of your driver, and chose to not use the formentioned rule of thumb,when using an aero port, that you have given too much port area to your design…

I am building a box for 2 SA-12's for the trunk of my altima. I want to have a square port between the 2 subs on the front of the box, looking somewhat like this: O | O sub port sub Using 3/4" MDF and outside dimensions, my box's height can only have ~ a height of 16.5", a width of 33", and a depth of 16.5" (however, the depth can be altered a good bit if needed) I need to know what dimensions to make the port and the dimensions of the box itself if anyone could help. Thanks.

Okay so i already had a box designed before but i wanted to try it all on my own...thanx to the12volt.com box and port calculator i figured out a simple box i can build...here are the specs BOX: W-47" H-25" D-28" PORT: W-30" H-5" D-10" The box will be 16.4cu ft and it will be tuned to 35hz...the port will be facing back with subs fired up/inverted...

I am wanting to add more low end to my truck and I think I have decided to do a rear console. But I dont know which way to fire the sub or subs. The box will be roughly 2.4cu and is 14x28x14. This is going in a 07 Harley F250. Here is a few pics of a cardboard make up box. So should I do one 12 rear facing and ported or do 2 10's or 2 12's down firing sealed? If I do a down firing box it will need to come up 2-3 inches so it would be alittle higher than pics. The box will be black carpet to match. Looking for hard hitting low clean bass. I could maybe get another .5 if I slope the front and bring it down. Looking at either SA-10's 12"s or SSA Dcon or ICONS and a SA-1500…