SPL & SQ / Fabrication

Alright well my buddy has a misubishi eclipse with 2 12" alpine type E's in it right now. He ordered two more today. So I dont have any dimensions but I want to make a ported box tuned to 31 hz. And probably 6 cuft. But should I make one big box? Or should I seal off the subs?

ok im making my first attempt at a custom box. its for 1 sd12 in the trunk of a honda accord planing on sub facing back and ports facing up to go through the rear deck. plywood (no mdf at local building store) 3/4 inch depth 18" w 20" h 14" port (1) L 12" dia.3 if my calculations are right box is 2.21 ft3 tuned to 34.15 sub displacement is .10 so that should net me a 2.11ft3 box (damn i hate math) am i anywhere close? or even headed in the right direction? any input would be great cause right now its in a cookie cutter Q-logic box (1.5 ported and its starving for air) thanks guys and gals

Sprint so I have a 06 tundra access cab with a fi x12 in I believe 2 cuft ported box tuned to around 32-34 maybe. But why do I notice such a big increase in "volume" of the sub when I put the windows down or open a door? This is probably a noob question but I'm just curious. Thanks. Btw it's running on a 400rms powerbass amp. It's where the back left seat would be. Standing up with the sub facing drivers seat and port facing the passengers side. Thanks

I am noticing some mixed thoughts on enclosure bracing. My opinion on bracing is to brace areas larger than two square feet. Again that is my humble opinion, no scientific study. I have done a little bit of research and I have not been able to come up with an definitive answer. I had a Team SSA member tell me today that a mounting baffle for 8 12" subwoofers does not need bracing. That seems like a far stretch for me to believe. But then again, I am basing my enclosure bracing off a hunch. Can anybody name a scientific evaluation that has been performed on enclosure bracing and it's proper application? Or even a good article written by a reputable source on enclosure brac…

I've been steadily trying to find the best way to mount ordinary PVC pipe in a box. I looked at lowes and found these "Closet Flanges". They Fit on the inside or outside of the PVC (depending on size, in my case, the inside of a 4" pvc). The flanges have a, well.. flange on the outside with 4 screw holes that could be used for mounting. I think this would work perfectly, except when the flange is inserted into the pipe, it's about 1/8" thick and reduces the diamater of the end of the pipe to about 3.75". Is this enough to alter the affects of the port? The decrease in diameter is only about 1-1.5" long, then it flares back out to 4". What are you guys opinion? Here's a li…

Does or can anyone help me figure out what kind of space is needed to run 2 12" Z V.2 subs in a 4th order in the trunk.

I know port tuning makes a difference. And I know what the differences are, but would there be an audible/easily noticeble difference between 30hz and 34hz tuning? For the larger amount of port area I want for my smaller box, I would have to tune around 34hz, instead of the 30hz I wanted to tune at.

Port around 1cubes per chamber. Tuned around 33hz Sealed around .75cubes per chamber Thanks! For 10"

I'm adding a budget sub stage to my girlfriends 99 Chevy Blazer. It will be 2 powerbass PS-12's on a 600 watt el cheapo amp. Her main choices of music are mainly alternative rock (Matchbox Twenty, Weezer, Audioslave, etc), and country. My question is, what would be the optimal enclosure for this listening style? Would sealed be best for this setup, or a slightly high tuned ported one? (If so, what frequency?) The goals of this system is not necessarily major output, but mainly just adding a good sounding blended sub stage. She doesn't need it to be super loud, but she does want some decent output to be there when she wants it. I will be installing a bass knob for her so s…

Alright so iv made my box and everything and I would love to use body filler to smooth t all out and cover allscrew holes. I don't really want to spend any more money for this box... What's the cheapest way to obtain the perfect box?

Made another video showing the rest of the kerfing process!

I am working on my plans for my box and would it be acceptable to cut a hole for a round port and have the port extrude from the box some distance? The Box is 3.5 cubes or so tuning to i hope 32 Hz for a 15. Could it be outside to get more airspace?

I'm going to be building a small aero ported box for a friend soon, but he doesn't want to spend the extra few dollars to buy real aero's. He wants to go with just straight PVC pipe instead. Yes, I explained port noise and the advantages of having flared ports. Anyway, what's the best way to mount PVC pipe externally on a box? There's no flare to screw into the wood, only a straight pipe to sit inside the cutout. I'm having trouble trying to figure out the most stable and secure way of attaching the PVC. Thoughts?

This isn't really a "how to" considering I didn't take a lot of pictures, and I don't really know what I'm doing, but people can learn from my mistakes and what I've learned in the last year. First mess up, didn't use any mold release between the tape and laying down the mat. Usually people use wax or some spray, even spam? I don't know, but I f#cked that part up. Trimmed the panels down. Used non-hardening clay to angle the baffles. Since I'm using small baffles with relatively light drivers, and low depth, the clay held the shape well for aiming, and everything. If your using larger drivers then clay may not suffice. I propose a toast: to 2-part expanding foam. …

Anyone here used plasti dip to finish a box with? If so how'd it hold up and how much area would one can cover? I was looking at some the other day at Lowe's and IIRC it said it was ok to use on wood, but MDF isn't wood.

I am about to get a really good deal on two AA Havoc 12"s soon. And I havent got the room for a full ported box in my truck for two 12s. So heres what i'm doin. I've designed a box which is right around 2.5cuft before driver displacement. Idk how or what role the size of a sealed box plays with output or with quality. The box looks kinda like this. /l Ll It is 36" wide x 22" tall x 10" deep. With the front of the sub having a 45 Degree face starting 12" up the front size. I'll upload a pic in a few to clarify as much as my lil sketches possibly can. Also a double baffle design. Any info or help would be greatly appreciated!!

I drive an Olds Bravada (basically a blazer) and I drive it daily, but its a weekend warrior for spl. I have an AA Havoc 15, I'm building the box to the SSA Icon enclosure specs, and running it off a MB Quart Discus 1500. Which would sound better/get louder, facing the sub and port up, or sub and port back? If I face the sub up I can actually use some of my cargo area.. but that isn't a big necessity. It is a four door if that matters.

I was checking out the parameters for the icon and the aa havoc. They're pretty close spec wise. So would using the the pre made box plans work for the havoc? From my calculations its 30-32hz tuning.

I am new and am designing a ported box, it is 4.1 cubed inside for 1 15 and i want to tune low. how big should the port be so the air speed is not too fast?

Well, i think its time for a custom box. The current box was made for 2 12" w7's. my speakers are 10cvx122 kickers. specs are min port, 1.75+port and max 2.25+port with the port being 63" sq x 20" long. figure that out. 87.32 spl, 3.74 Revc, .0507 Sd M, 18.62 BL TM, 57.98 Vas liters, 28.44 Fs Hz, 197.28 Mms Grams, 10.209 Qms, .38 Qes, .3665 Qts, 15.4mm XMax. whatever all that means, lol. The max dimensions in the truck are ______14____ and about 4' wide maxx. / l / l 1-1.5' …

Hows it look? Not Allowed To Use Image Extention Click here to View Enclosure! http://chronicenclosures.com/subbox.bmp System Build: 2x Incriminator Audio Lethal Injection 12 Inch Woofers Daul 2 Ohm Voice Coils 1x JL Audio 1000/1v2 Slasher Amplifier 1200HC Kinetik Battery Stock Battery 0 Gauge "The Big Three" Capacator 1 Farad Enclosure Specifications: 3/4" MDF Material Height: 25 3/4" Width: 36" Depth: 15" Gross Volume: 6.334 Volume Displacement: Port - 1.396 Cubic Ft Woofers - 0.22 Cubic Ft Bracing - 0.056 Cubic Ft Total = 1.672 Cubic Ft Net Volume: 4.662 Cubic Ft Individual Woofer Volume:Just Under 2.5 Cubic Ft Subwoofers Facing Upwards Port Specifications: Port Area: …

im making a box for 2 12 Fi BL 12's and was wondering do i need a baffle for the 12's? becuse if i baffled it would mess with the volume and tuning of the box? sooo? not sure. the port is located inbetween the 12's. anyones 2cents?

Alright, well, for a build I am going to be doing I can choose between 2 4" aeroports, or 1 6" aeroport. When I put the 6" into WinISD it tells me a length of 23.25" is needed for my tune. And when I enter 2 4" ports it tells me I need a port length of 21.5". Now, is that a combined length between the two ports? Or does each one need to be 21.5" ?? Thanks for your help.

Hello. I bought this car a few months back and the time has come for me to start with audio upgrades. I would like to focus this thread on the front stage. My goals: Two-way active setup. Clean sound. Ability to get decently loud inside the car, I have no interest in a parking lot party vehicle. Good, precise response in the listening frequency range. Installation locations: I have two 10" Sundown Neo Pro midbass drivers I am planning on installing, one per door. Around 0.5 cub ft ported, tuned to ~60Hz. I would like to retain my foot space, so for now kick panels are out of the picture. I have no problem with mounting speakers on the A pillars or on/under the dash. I ha…

I'm going to be purchasing a table saw in the near future. My question is: how big do I need? The only local place to buy MDF in my area only sells in 4x8 sheets, so I'd have rinse this saw with that initially. I found a nice looking one at lowes for $150. It's a 10". I don't know what the 10 inches refers to.. Would that be big enough to get the job done on a 4x8 sheet of MDF? If not, what about 4x4? I think lowes can cut the sheets in half for me.