SPL & SQ / Fabrication

So, as you guys know, I'm an SPL nut. But as of lately I'm getting pretty tired of the completely bone stock setup in my daily driver. I had been talking about doing a nice install for a while, but frankly don't really know where to begin. I was talking to a buddy of mine (former IASCA SQ competitor), and he was talking about doing some A-pillars with 3" mids and tweeters and then doing some 7" midbasses in the doors. Frankly, I have no idea how that would work or what equipment to look at. I even thought about just going basic with some nice components in the doors (tweeter and 6.5"), and then maybe getting a little fancy with some 8" woofer kickpods to go along with a…

I need help designing a set of boxes for two 8

As the title states I'm going to replace my whole setup I need help with choosing what to do the new setup will consist of 2 Ssa icon 12's a dc audio 2k and I do not know what size I should have the enclosure at for the subs and only thing that will make it a bit hard for me would be the tuning. I was think tuning to 30hz but that might be stupid to tune it that low for those subs. Thank you for all that help and I don't mind reading links to help me out

Hey guys, in this episode I show you how you can take a seemingly normal box, and make it truly custom and one of a kind, and integrate it into your install, and really give your builds a PROFESSIONAL look. Here is the video: The pictures below outline the steps: 1: Laying Out your shapes and ideas: 2: Preparing the shapes for body filler: 3: Applying Body Filler: 4: sanding Bosy Filler: 5: Prepping for Vinyl or Paint: 6: Wrapping the panel and triming: 7: Finished Product: 8: Finished Product: Please comment below or on the video itself, if you enjoyed the video check out my others as well on YouTube. Mark

I am new and am designing a ported box, it is 4.1 cubed inside for 1 15 and i want to tune low. how big should the port be so the air speed is not too fast?

This post is going to be a little bit technical, but since most of you are more "technical" than I am, I'm sure you can handle it. I need help setting up my amps, and more specifically setting my amps' crossover frequency cutoffs. I understand if nobody wants to take the time to reply, but I'll just throw all of it out there. First, my setup. Some of you have probably seen my installation log (and my sig), but I'll lay it out more specifically here. I will be installing my amps very soon, and need to set all of the dials before I screw them into the amp rack. Amps JL Audio 500/5 (for front speakers and sub) JL Audio e2150 (to drive my rear fill only) Speakers Fronts:…

Yeah i know i haven't posted in a long ass time.. However.. So i finally got the Navi goin a while ago and sold the town car. I kept my same box i had and just threw it in after i reconed my MT's. So needless to say 10x louder in an suv than in a car. But after a week or so off playing music i start to notice rattles and squeaks. So a few days later the bass just isn't hitting. So I go back to the box and see this... Thinkin to myself dam, i might need to start fiber-glassing the inside of my boxes lol. Funny thing is i can listen to my music all day up loud but passengers seem to have sensitive ears..on the broken box at that. lol 2 18" mt's 5k watts btw 150's im hopin …

im making a box for 2 kenwood 12s. so far im kinda lost on how to make it but this is my design. 25x25x40 that will give me 3.5 cuft thats inner dimensions. i was thinking i put the port inside? the port would be 25x3 and it needs to be about 45 inches to make it 33hz. what dou you guys think? am i off to a good start? bad start? and input would be greatly accepted.

i know birch is lighter, less dust. but is there any thing that makes it better then mdf? the guy building my box is pushing me to do birch only charging me 50 bucks extra for it so its not breaking the bank or anything. does it sound better? im sure it will last longer. its for a daily system not after numbers i only meter when i get new stuff to see how much of a difference it made. edit: for bad spelling

I picked up a tdx 15 dual voice coil 2 ohm for $100 in a pre-fab box. 1200 watts rms. Hooked it up and found out the box is broke. It sounded like Donald Duck getting kicked in the nads. I would like to build an spl box for it but after googling my fingers off I can't seem to find any box spec recommendations. I was hoping to find a simple slot port build or something because I am still a noob and don't quite understand the Qs's and the other mysterious letter number references on the tech sheets Any ideas or opinions would be appreciated. I prefer spl over sq.

My 15 will be here today, and ive spent the last week drawing up designs but before i commit to any, does anyone have a more accurate box calc than Re.com? My friend used it and his came out nearly a 1/4 cubic foot bigger and tuned like 4~hz higher than what re box calc told him.

Do you guys take this into account (from the JL box building page): I take this as meaning I subtract half of the port width from the length. For example, my calculations calls for a 16.5 x 6.15 x 26.25" long port in order to tune to 33Hz. Does the physical port in the box then become 26.25 - 3.07= 23.18 inches long?

Is it possible to wire in multiple computer case ball bearing fans in my car? Is it a matter of taking the black wire and grounding it, but the red power wire, can i just wire it to my distribution block? How will i deal with the voltage? Thinking about mounting amps in a long thin enclosure with plexiglass top and have the fans suck in air on the right side and have the fans suck out air on the right side for ventilation. Maybe ill throw in some neon lights to make it look good. Is this just a pipe dream or can it be done? Any help would be appreciated. TIA

The past few weeks I have been going to a few comps here and there and noticing a lot of talk about what to tune your box to to get the highest SPL. Just looking to get opinions on here since there are a lot of competitors. Me personally, Im running 2 DC level 5 15's box tuned to 40hz @ 7.7 cubes doing 149.4 @ 53 hz........Not sure if i could tune it down to get better results or to tune it higher. Anyone got any suggestions?

I have been searching around and just can't seem to get a good enough grasp on these so hopefully somebody here can help me. I'm building a box so after the displacement of everything it will be 3cuft. I will be running two Audioque HDC310s D1 and want to tune the box to 35 hz. So my question is how many ports? How long? What diameter? I just don't want to screw this up and have port noise or inefficient ports. I was also wondering if I could just get pvc pipe from a local hardware store and use that and buy some flares online to save some money. Thanks in advance!

From what I have read here the port area per square foot rule is just a myth, port area has nothing to do with the size of the box. I tried searching more and all I could find was that port area is determined by the parameters of the sub, tuning, and amount of power. So I am curious what formula is used to actually calculate how much port area you need? I am currently designing a new enclosure for my 15" Fi SP4 which is run off an AQ3500. My old box was designed to fit in a trunk but now I have a Tahoe so size is not as big of a restriction for the new box. It was 3.83cuFt @32.25Hz (after displacement). I like the low end but actually would like to try tuning lower. I …

how exactly do u go about finding peak note to use in port wars? i know what to modify AFTER the port is made but how do u know which note to use? i was thinkin about throwin the meter in the box and sealing it up.. but... if i do this, will the car's peak note effect the peak note for port wars? or IS the proper tuning for port wars equal to SPL tuning?

I have a question regarding port length and how to measure it in my application. I have decided on one 15in FI-Q in a downfiring ported console encloser for my truck. Question is: I have attached a photo of an example I did and I don't know how to figure the length. And also, how do I figure the port area and will this be enough for a 15in FI Q. A SA-1500v.2 will power the sub. The port will be 3.5in wide and 14.5 in tall (inside diameter) but how long will it be? Looking to tune at roughly 30hz and the box will have 3.65cu after displacement if this works. Is it A, B or C. Red would be airflow Thanks in advance

please list your equipment and your top numbers, what year that happened, what meter, etc, and maybe what you would like to see in the future.

would applying resin to the entire outside of the box stop the wood from absorbing paint? and would it be a good way to do it? Because i feel like the wood would absorb primer almost as much as it did the paint. I'm just wondering because the last box i built took several cans of paint, (and it was only for 1 10") and even then, the paint only came out ok

So, unfortunately i don't think i will be able to get the hight i need for 15s in a regular blow through. i have been looking in doing some sort of bandpass blow through with the chamber firing into the truck from the bed. i have read other posts and things but there seem to be too many different opinions and not facts. Any information for me would be greatly appreciated. I have seemed to be more focused of a 6th order. i like the way its ported inside a port but i do NOT have much knowledge on this so i'm looking forward to learning more about it. Would a bandpass be my best option, if so which one and why? i was looking to do something like this.

First off managed to pick up a 93 civic hatchback for 700 bucks and I would like to know what type of set up would be best, like port direction, sub direction, box style all opinions welcome as i'm pretty sure someone here would have done something like this already.

Hello all, I have been away from the forums for some time since graduating college and started working again. Now that I have some money to finally move away from these seemingly low powered setups (6 systems since 2012), I am looking for help with my wall build. I am going to be building the base to the wall in my 2016 Ford Focus sedan in a week or two, and there is a lot of room to work with (over 30 cubes). I will be running 2 18" ZCONs on (undecided) either a 5.5k or 6.5k amp with supporting electrical (batt bank, lots of OFC wire, and HO alt). This is my daily, and I just want a ground pounder with no care to what numbers it'll put up in the lanes. I would like to de…

Got a 12" BTL in 2.8cuft enclosure at 30Hz. Upgraded from a BL, and well, it took about a week to get used to the BTL. I have 31" x 18" x 16" of enclosure space available, maximum. (largest I can fit in trunk opening) However there's some space around enclosure once in. Would like to upgrade to something else. 31 x 18 x 16 = 4.0cuft internal before displacement with 3/4 MDF Would like 12" Q's. Can it be done using external areo ports? Or what are my other options? I have a 2500D amplifier. Goals are to move more air than the 12" BTL, and I prefer lows.

Okay, so ive been trying to decide what i want to do with my 600 dollar tax return. i get it in a week. =) not bad for only working two months eh? lol anyways... I have a 96 tacoma regular cab pickup with the bench seat in it. I have had a few systems in it. I have a brutus bxi2008d. My PLAN is to get an SA 12 and build a box as big as can behind my seat. (after many measurements and few boxes that ive already built i think i can get about 2.3 cube inside of a 3/4 box before any displacements) with that said onto my questions... i have been using the12volts calculator for port length.... with from i have heard the general rule of thumb is 12-16 inches of port area per c…