SPL & SQ / Fabrication
Calculations, Concepts, Designs, Theories. All General SPL Or SQ Questions Can Be Discussed Here.
2,714 topics in this forum
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For 2 Fi BL 18s in a box that is 2cuft over the manufacturers recommended enclosure size the final net volume after displacement is 18.29. I have the tuning freq set at 33hz. What would you guys tune this box to? Or should i keep it the same? Thanks!
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First off managed to pick up a 93 civic hatchback for 700 bucks and I would like to know what type of set up would be best, like port direction, sub direction, box style all opinions welcome as i'm pretty sure someone here would have done something like this already.
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so i was told my wall was too big, lol which it is 16 cubes for 4 12"s, but beyond that, we still get a solid 152 on 1900 watts clamped, looking to gain fairly large numbers (1.5 db) without increasing power and withing 2 weeks lol. but i was told about a rear loading wall, the guy told me that he stumbled across putting a "wall" inside the wall that has around 2-3" of gap between the edges and was at a slight angle, claims to have gained him 8 db (i doubt it, but he has all the equipment to know what he did and how much it gained). what do you guys think of this, all i can think of is that is sounds like a bandpass with some sort of a horn effect to it... im not sure…
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how exactly do u go about finding peak note to use in port wars? i know what to modify AFTER the port is made but how do u know which note to use? i was thinkin about throwin the meter in the box and sealing it up.. but... if i do this, will the car's peak note effect the peak note for port wars? or IS the proper tuning for port wars equal to SPL tuning?
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i know birch is lighter, less dust. but is there any thing that makes it better then mdf? the guy building my box is pushing me to do birch only charging me 50 bucks extra for it so its not breaking the bank or anything. does it sound better? im sure it will last longer. its for a daily system not after numbers i only meter when i get new stuff to see how much of a difference it made. edit: for bad spelling
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I have a 2004 Cadillac SLS and am looking to fab a 4th order enclosure for 2 SA-8 V.2's on a SAZ 1500 V.3. The reason for the smaller sub is to help save room in the trunk and to still have high output. The reason for the 4th order is the infamous Cadillac trunk bass trap, so I would like to port the enclosure through the stock sub location in my rear deck. I am not too familiar with hertz levels or anything, but I can tell you that I listen to every thing from Hip Hop, R&B, Jazz, and Alternative. New to the forum here and just looking for some experienced suggestions. If you would like more detail please let me know. Would like a little seasoned input before I spend …
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the 4 ft will be below the windows, and the 6 will be above the windows. the 6 can be plugged to ~7ft @ ~32-34Hz w/ ~ 75^2 port. the other one i haven't sat down to figure it out yet... i think i wanna go under the window if i do decide to compete, cause i don't know how well i'd do in the higer class what you guys think?
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Hi I need some help designing a box for two Digital Designs 2512c D2 Each sub will be wired to its own hifonics brz1200d @ 1ohm My max dimensions are: 38W X 14H X 22D I am looking for subs+ port (centered) firing foward I listen to rap Thanks! p.s- i plan on printing what i get here and giving that to a shop (cut list, google sketch ect.) i dont have the right tools to do it myself
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Hey guys im switching from CVXs to BLs im wondering if my old box would be ok with the new subs till I get a new one built. Car Tunes built the box and its suppose to be "spec" for the size of my truck and the space im utilizing. They said its a 1 chamber for 2 subs. I went outside and measured it...dual 15s btw 20.5in long 42in wide 18.5in high The port measured 2.5 in wide 16.5 long I just wanna know if this box is close to whats recommended. Im sure they need more port volume but I don't build boxes so someone enlighten me please lol. Any input is greatly appreciated guys! Thanks
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Hey guys, in this episode I show you how you can take a seemingly normal box, and make it truly custom and one of a kind, and integrate it into your install, and really give your builds a PROFESSIONAL look. Here is the video: The pictures below outline the steps: 1: Laying Out your shapes and ideas: 2: Preparing the shapes for body filler: 3: Applying Body Filler: 4: sanding Bosy Filler: 5: Prepping for Vinyl or Paint: 6: Wrapping the panel and triming: 7: Finished Product: 8: Finished Product: Please comment below or on the video itself, if you enjoyed the video check out my others as well on YouTube. Mark
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Hello guys, I used to get designs from Ram, but he's no longer in business. Who can help me ? I need a design for a new box. The sub is an Orion HCCA (latest one, 2500 w rms). Tha car is a 206 Peugeot, it's small hatchback car. Ampifier : Crescendo BC 2000 Max dimensions : 35 x 40 x 90 cm 13.78" x 15.74" x 35.43" or 13" 3/4 x 15" 3/4 x 35" 2/5 I want a L port, with a 34 Hz tuning. Goal is loud, musical, not only focus on the lows. It's not a burp setup at all. Sub up, port up. Please. I'm in a hurry !
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Hello all, I have been away from the forums for some time since graduating college and started working again. Now that I have some money to finally move away from these seemingly low powered setups (6 systems since 2012), I am looking for help with my wall build. I am going to be building the base to the wall in my 2016 Ford Focus sedan in a week or two, and there is a lot of room to work with (over 30 cubes). I will be running 2 18" ZCONs on (undecided) either a 5.5k or 6.5k amp with supporting electrical (batt bank, lots of OFC wire, and HO alt). This is my daily, and I just want a ground pounder with no care to what numbers it'll put up in the lanes. I would like to de…
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and lower tuning.. plus the subs heat up the enclosure, bad for the amps too, so better cooling! Port is 24" long now for a 22Hz tuning, I get bad cancellation I think, so I will do a 30" port which will reult in 20Hz
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First i would like to say thanks to everyone that is competing this year and promoting their organization of choice, and also would like to thank people who are going out of their way to promote the industry as well. I also wanna thank anyone coming back into the lanes to give em hell, to do what they know best, and that is GETTING LOUD! And with this, I would like to thank ALMA for joining our small group here. Hope you enjoy your stay and hope you can give out some good info to the newer crowd on what you have seen and where you might forecast where we are all heading. Anyone wanting to learn more about Team Gates or ALMA can either post here or visit her website a…
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I had a 4th order bandpass box designed for me, but he didn't give me an output graph or tuning frequency or anything else. So before I build the box, I'd like to know what the output graph looks like (if there are any high/low peaks/dips in the curve at certain frequencies). How can I figure out what the 'range' of the box/sub is? I'm not sure how to ask this, but I'd like to know the frequency band width. Whats the lowest the sub should play and the highest the sub should play. So I know where to set my subsonic//lowpass filters. Can anyone help me? Let me know what measurements you might need or just tell me how I can calculate it.
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So, unfortunately i don't think i will be able to get the hight i need for 15s in a regular blow through. i have been looking in doing some sort of bandpass blow through with the chamber firing into the truck from the bed. i have read other posts and things but there seem to be too many different opinions and not facts. Any information for me would be greatly appreciated. I have seemed to be more focused of a 6th order. i like the way its ported inside a port but i do NOT have much knowledge on this so i'm looking forward to learning more about it. Would a bandpass be my best option, if so which one and why? i was looking to do something like this.
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Is it possible to wire in multiple computer case ball bearing fans in my car? Is it a matter of taking the black wire and grounding it, but the red power wire, can i just wire it to my distribution block? How will i deal with the voltage? Thinking about mounting amps in a long thin enclosure with plexiglass top and have the fans suck in air on the right side and have the fans suck out air on the right side for ventilation. Maybe ill throw in some neon lights to make it look good. Is this just a pipe dream or can it be done? Any help would be appreciated. TIA
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im making a box for 2 kenwood 12s. so far im kinda lost on how to make it but this is my design. 25x25x40 that will give me 3.5 cuft thats inner dimensions. i was thinking i put the port inside? the port would be 25x3 and it needs to be about 45 inches to make it 33hz. what dou you guys think? am i off to a good start? bad start? and input would be greatly accepted.
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Got a 12" BTL in 2.8cuft enclosure at 30Hz. Upgraded from a BL, and well, it took about a week to get used to the BTL. I have 31" x 18" x 16" of enclosure space available, maximum. (largest I can fit in trunk opening) However there's some space around enclosure once in. Would like to upgrade to something else. 31 x 18 x 16 = 4.0cuft internal before displacement with 3/4 MDF Would like 12" Q's. Can it be done using external areo ports? Or what are my other options? I have a 2500D amplifier. Goals are to move more air than the 12" BTL, and I prefer lows.
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Hey, i'm gonna spill out all kinds of info so make sure you understand it, hehe. I'm currently workin on your design right now, you will be using external dimensions of 42" wide x 17" tall x 22" deep. This IS what i am going with. You will be using a double baffle on this box. Box material will be constructed out of 0.75" material. I need to know what bracing material you will be using, Wooden dowels or 2x4s? Internal dimensions- 40.5" wide x 15.5" tall x 19.75" deep. Your speaker Outer Diameter is 10.91", i went ahead and rounded up to 11" for a hair more headroom for accidental measurement inaccuracy. Your Baffle design- The border around this baffle is showing the th…
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So I got this 30$ subwoofer which I bought 3 year ago and it still plays good and I like it. But the box what it has now I was told is too small and tuned very high(indeed it does not hit the lows very good). I have no information about its xmas, vas, FS ... etc. It says 900W max (maybe 150w real ) 12 inch Thunder. Model BC1250RD I want something to listen to my music till I get money for NSv2 ( rap and some bass tests... so low tuning around 34Hz). Here are some pics. My fail box. Yes I know I don't need polyfill for a ported box. Port is 4.7 inches radius , long around 5-6 inches. So help me forum. I was told by a pro I should go with 2 - 2.25 cub ft , 15 sq inch r…
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Any competitors with a trunk here? So far I am at 147.4 legal on the term with no testing and a box with the wrong tuning. Anyone have an tips/hints?
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So, in an effort to be cool I have been looking at getting a proper enclosure for my 12" Icon. Spoke with Andrew and I'm possibly going that route. First I'd like to find someone more local than across the US. I'm in Jersey and need someone close by if possible that can design/build an enclosure to spec for my boom boom. ... Anybody here on the east coast with the skills and tools?? Please let me know... Thanks!
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I am planning a fairly large system as my next project. I'm curious to know what you guys think of oddly shaped enclosures. I'm not talking about the plain jane square boxes, I'm talking about enclosures constructed out of nearly 100% composite materials. You know the ones made to fit oddly shaped areas such as the sides of trunks or in spare tire wells. I am planning on 2 Fi.BTL15's and in order to get them in and still have room for amps I am going to need to use fibreglass for a very large portion of the box to maximize the enclosure size as well as the usable trunk space for amps and such. I am under the impression that shape doesnt matter nearly as much as the size…
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This post is going to be a little bit technical, but since most of you are more "technical" than I am, I'm sure you can handle it. I need help setting up my amps, and more specifically setting my amps' crossover frequency cutoffs. I understand if nobody wants to take the time to reply, but I'll just throw all of it out there. First, my setup. Some of you have probably seen my installation log (and my sig), but I'll lay it out more specifically here. I will be installing my amps very soon, and need to set all of the dials before I screw them into the amp rack. Amps JL Audio 500/5 (for front speakers and sub) JL Audio e2150 (to drive my rear fill only) Speakers Fronts:…
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