SPL & SQ / Fabrication

Alright, i was suggested to use the recommended xcon enclosure (7.65 tuned to 30) but sub up and port back apparently is better in the jeep grand cherokees. All i did was move the sub to the top, will this work? Will it load strangely with the port? Or should i just design a new box lol. like so

Is it possible to wire in multiple computer case ball bearing fans in my car? Is it a matter of taking the black wire and grounding it, but the red power wire, can i just wire it to my distribution block? How will i deal with the voltage? Thinking about mounting amps in a long thin enclosure with plexiglass top and have the fans suck in air on the right side and have the fans suck out air on the right side for ventilation. Maybe ill throw in some neon lights to make it look good. Is this just a pipe dream or can it be done? Any help would be appreciated. TIA

Hello guys, I used to get designs from Ram, but he's no longer in business. Who can help me ? I need a design for a new box. The sub is an Orion HCCA (latest one, 2500 w rms). Tha car is a 206 Peugeot, it's small hatchback car. Ampifier : Crescendo BC 2000 Max dimensions : 35 x 40 x 90 cm 13.78" x 15.74" x 35.43" or 13" 3/4 x 15" 3/4 x 35" 2/5 I want a L port, with a 34 Hz tuning. Goal is loud, musical, not only focus on the lows. It's not a burp setup at all. Sub up, port up. Please. I'm in a hurry !

Hey guys im switching from CVXs to BLs im wondering if my old box would be ok with the new subs till I get a new one built. Car Tunes built the box and its suppose to be "spec" for the size of my truck and the space im utilizing. They said its a 1 chamber for 2 subs. I went outside and measured it...dual 15s btw 20.5in long 42in wide 18.5in high The port measured 2.5 in wide 16.5 long I just wanna know if this box is close to whats recommended. Im sure they need more port volume but I don't build boxes so someone enlighten me please lol. Any input is greatly appreciated guys! Thanks

Well, a buddy of mine has one of these, it's a single cab, long bed. He just got a new, sweet ass small block 350 in it, sounds mean. But his audio, just makes me want to cry.. Stock 28 year OLD 5x7's in the rear, if what he told me is right, and it has no front speakers, doors or top of dash. Well, I told him I could fabricate him some 6.5's into his doors, there's plenty of space, and I was just wondering how would I do the wiring since it doesn't have any power options in the doors what so ever. So what I'm asking, do I drill a hole into the side of the door near the inside of truck and vise versa and find some rubber grommets or what? Thanks for helping!

I am new and am designing a ported box, it is 4.1 cubed inside for 1 15 and i want to tune low. how big should the port be so the air speed is not too fast?

This post is going to be a little bit technical, but since most of you are more "technical" than I am, I'm sure you can handle it. I need help setting up my amps, and more specifically setting my amps' crossover frequency cutoffs. I understand if nobody wants to take the time to reply, but I'll just throw all of it out there. First, my setup. Some of you have probably seen my installation log (and my sig), but I'll lay it out more specifically here. I will be installing my amps very soon, and need to set all of the dials before I screw them into the amp rack. Amps JL Audio 500/5 (for front speakers and sub) JL Audio e2150 (to drive my rear fill only) Speakers Fronts:…

Wanting to do my next box with birch, what exactly am I going to need to look for when buying it. Thanks

Yeah i know i haven't posted in a long ass time.. However.. So i finally got the Navi goin a while ago and sold the town car. I kept my same box i had and just threw it in after i reconed my MT's. So needless to say 10x louder in an suv than in a car. But after a week or so off playing music i start to notice rattles and squeaks. So a few days later the bass just isn't hitting. So I go back to the box and see this... Thinkin to myself dam, i might need to start fiber-glassing the inside of my boxes lol. Funny thing is i can listen to my music all day up loud but passengers seem to have sensitive ears..on the broken box at that. lol 2 18" mt's 5k watts btw 150's im hopin …

the 4 ft will be below the windows, and the 6 will be above the windows. the 6 can be plugged to ~7ft @ ~32-34Hz w/ ~ 75^2 port. the other one i haven't sat down to figure it out yet... i think i wanna go under the window if i do decide to compete, cause i don't know how well i'd do in the higer class what you guys think?

would applying resin to the entire outside of the box stop the wood from absorbing paint? and would it be a good way to do it? Because i feel like the wood would absorb primer almost as much as it did the paint. I'm just wondering because the last box i built took several cans of paint, (and it was only for 1 10") and even then, the paint only came out ok

how exactly do u go about finding peak note to use in port wars? i know what to modify AFTER the port is made but how do u know which note to use? i was thinkin about throwin the meter in the box and sealing it up.. but... if i do this, will the car's peak note effect the peak note for port wars? or IS the proper tuning for port wars equal to SPL tuning?

im making a box for 2 kenwood 12s. so far im kinda lost on how to make it but this is my design. 25x25x40 that will give me 3.5 cuft thats inner dimensions. i was thinking i put the port inside? the port would be 25x3 and it needs to be about 45 inches to make it 33hz. what dou you guys think? am i off to a good start? bad start? and input would be greatly accepted.

i know birch is lighter, less dust. but is there any thing that makes it better then mdf? the guy building my box is pushing me to do birch only charging me 50 bucks extra for it so its not breaking the bank or anything. does it sound better? im sure it will last longer. its for a daily system not after numbers i only meter when i get new stuff to see how much of a difference it made. edit: for bad spelling

just like to say that my little boy will be in the lanes this year. he's 5 yrs old and going to compete in the mini SPL cars. so hopefully we'll be finish with it in about a month or so. wish him luck jamie

Do you guys take this into account (from the JL box building page): I take this as meaning I subtract half of the port width from the length. For example, my calculations calls for a 16.5 x 6.15 x 26.25" long port in order to tune to 33Hz. Does the physical port in the box then become 26.25 - 3.07= 23.18 inches long?

First off managed to pick up a 93 civic hatchback for 700 bucks and I would like to know what type of set up would be best, like port direction, sub direction, box style all opinions welcome as i'm pretty sure someone here would have done something like this already.

My 15 will be here today, and ive spent the last week drawing up designs but before i commit to any, does anyone have a more accurate box calc than Re.com? My friend used it and his came out nearly a 1/4 cubic foot bigger and tuned like 4~hz higher than what re box calc told him.

First i would like to say thanks to everyone that is competing this year and promoting their organization of choice, and also would like to thank people who are going out of their way to promote the industry as well. I also wanna thank anyone coming back into the lanes to give em hell, to do what they know best, and that is GETTING LOUD! And with this, I would like to thank ALMA for joining our small group here. Hope you enjoy your stay and hope you can give out some good info to the newer crowd on what you have seen and where you might forecast where we are all heading. Anyone wanting to learn more about Team Gates or ALMA can either post here or visit her website a…

As the title states I'm going to replace my whole setup I need help with choosing what to do the new setup will consist of 2 Ssa icon 12's a dc audio 2k and I do not know what size I should have the enclosure at for the subs and only thing that will make it a bit hard for me would be the tuning. I was think tuning to 30hz but that might be stupid to tune it that low for those subs. Thank you for all that help and I don't mind reading links to help me out

Ive got (2) Kicker CVR Aluminized 12"s in a sealed box at the moment. I'm looking to build a ported box for them. Very little space in my trunk though, after replacing the POS factory Bose 6x9s. They hang down a little lower than expected, and also to note my torsion bar broke off the spot weld. I need some box dimensions along with ports and what not. I have a width=35" height=15". Can anyone help me please? It will be in a 2001 Acura 3.2CL Type-S and Im going for http://carphotos.cardomain.com/ride_images/1/2477/1341/6190670138_large.jpg this kind of look.

Which box is best of them all? Subwoofer is Alphard DB315 (2.5kw) 1600Rms clamped

Any competitors with a trunk here? So far I am at 147.4 legal on the term with no testing and a box with the wrong tuning. Anyone have an tips/hints?

The past few weeks I have been going to a few comps here and there and noticing a lot of talk about what to tune your box to to get the highest SPL. Just looking to get opinions on here since there are a lot of competitors. Me personally, Im running 2 DC level 5 15's box tuned to 40hz @ 7.7 cubes doing 149.4 @ 53 hz........Not sure if i could tune it down to get better results or to tune it higher. Anyone got any suggestions?

Hello all, I have been away from the forums for some time since graduating college and started working again. Now that I have some money to finally move away from these seemingly low powered setups (6 systems since 2012), I am looking for help with my wall build. I am going to be building the base to the wall in my 2016 Ford Focus sedan in a week or two, and there is a lot of room to work with (over 30 cubes). I will be running 2 18" ZCONs on (undecided) either a 5.5k or 6.5k amp with supporting electrical (batt bank, lots of OFC wire, and HO alt). This is my daily, and I just want a ground pounder with no care to what numbers it'll put up in the lanes. I would like to de…