SPL & SQ / Fabrication

I'm really confussed on ported box tuning and sizes can anyone help me work out some measurements for my enclosure i have two ascendent audio havoc 18" subwoofers , and two Orion D5000 amps to run the subwoofers . The size of the space I have is 34high x 20" deep 53" wide which is just over 17cuft i'f I've worked it out ok I would like the box 16 cuft and tuned for the lows because want to create hair tricks . The design I would like so I can make into a wall build . Help

Hey everyone. I purchased an SA-8 after reading a ton of reviews and now i am ready to start building a box. Since i've never built a box before i downloaded a couple of programs which apparently i have no concept on how to use :/ I listen to a variety of music from metal to dubsteb so i'm looking for a a box that can do both SQ and SPL. From what i've seen online it looks like .6^3 box tuned to 35hz is the way to go. Sub is going to have 500rms at 2ohm feeding it. I was thinking of having the sub point towards the roof and the port firing to the back. The narrowest point in the vehicle is 38". I emailed ram design to see if they could design me something but i haven't…

I made up a few pages for port tuning, that account for port displacement, as I haven't seen anything online that offered it. Slot Port: http://portsgalore.stefanhinote.com/?do=portlength Aero Ports: http://portsgalore.stefanhinote.com/?do=portaerolength It uses the port length equation from the loudspeaker cookbook. Input: volume, port dimensions, tuning. It figures out the port length, and port volume (port length * port area). Subtracts port volume from original volume = net volume. With the found port length and net volume, it figures out the real tuning. From there it has something to start with, and starts adjusting the original tuning frequency until the net tuning…

So I've come to a realization that I need to learn to do some woodwork and tool handling(no homo). I would like to eliminate the use of odd speaker adapters for my front door speakers, especially since I'll be redoing the front stage soon. Would a 6amp jigsaw with a blade for metal be able to get the job done of cutting the sheet metal of the door skin? If so, I'd like to cut a 10x7 shape or 10x10 square out of it. I would then create a wood frame/baffle to mount speakers to? Maybe directly to the frame or creating a speaker ring that would mount to the new frame? Ideas? Would that jigsaw be enough???

hey guys, i recently took out my sub and amp because i needed the sitting space. my video pretty much explains what im looking ot do. any help would be appreciated!!

Hey All , so I've got an Termlab , RTA software also included , but there's no mircohpone when I ordered the RTA software it wasnt clear to me I needed te mirophone so I'm missing a piece , I can measure but Termlab selects the laptops own microphone this is FAR from ideal ! so I could order the termlab mic , but I was wondering if there are any preferably cheaper and "as good as" alternatives would Alpines mic work for instance ?

im lookin to start a new build and try doing a wall. i know i shouldnt be doing this myself but the only way to learn it to ask a ton of questions and do it yourself. im not sure on the best/proper way to safely secure a wall. the walls gonna be for 2 psi platform 3s which arent too light. i just dont want the wall crushing me if i ever get into an accident. thanks.

i was thinking something like this non walled with a 2:1 ratio at 50hz? or do u think my setup like this would be louder?

and lower tuning.. plus the subs heat up the enclosure, bad for the amps too, so better cooling! Port is 24" long now for a 22Hz tuning, I get bad cancellation I think, so I will do a 30" port which will reult in 20Hz

I need help with a box spec for my 2 Sundown Audio SA-15s. Its going into a Izusu Rodeo. The box can be up to 41 inches wide. I looking for a box that i can use as a daily driver and for competitions. I would appreciate the help.

I have a gmc Sierra ext cab and I have a half wall box. How could I secure it so if I crash it doesn't kill me?!

Will be built in car in this area. Slot port on drivers side, sub and port firing into cab, sealed off from trunk. This is what I've come up with, but how do I figure the 90 for the length of L port? Thanks in advance.

Wassup guys, I just got in my possession 2 18 inch Aq hdc3's bnib. I will be walling my truck and my deminsions I came up with are 51'' width 38'' height 24'' deep. With 1.5in thick walls, I get 20.4 cubes. I gave my self alittle wiggle room for the height and width. I will be tuning to 36 hz with a 9x38 port that is 20.5 in long. It will be braced and before bracing will come out to about 8.2-8.4 per sub, that is after port displacement. If anyone could run those specs I would greatly appreciate it. This will be going into a 2000 gmc Sierra ext cab. They will be powered by 2 crescendo bc2000ds at 4ohm strapped daily then 1 ohm strapped for comps I'm looking fo…

hey guys should i build this or should i just keep it simple i have no experience designing an 4th order and would hate to waist 2 sheets of mdf if some one has input for a better enclosure lol its going to be a 1:2 chamber ratio rear is going to be 1.28 after displacements front is going to be 2.76 cf tuned to 36.09 box peaks at 33.79 at 6.69 db and here are pics of what i imagined

Ive been wanting a 6thorder for a while. I wanna try to build one for one of my sundown sa-15s i dont how big to make the chambers or the tuning. I listen to all rap and songs with low bass. Idk what do do someone help me. And what types of wood can i use?

Hi guys, I'm in the process of thinking out my rebuild in my car. Here's the origiinal build thread: So I will be using the same subs, 2 18" Mayhems, I will be adding 2 210 amp alts, and Amp upgrade to give me 6Kw+ I want it to be loud and low, play the 25-40hz bracket sweetly, I dont really care outside that cos I dont ever play up above the 40hz range. all help appreciated guys Joe

hi every have another question my step dad bought me another sa-12 as a late xmas gift and he gonna help me build a new box for my 2nd 12 gets here but the space i have is 39x16x22 1/2 which is w x d x h. now my question is is it possible to build a box for these two subs with this much space ? and how high do you think i could tune the sub's at as well if it's not i can add more height to the box.

I was installing a simple Hu in a 2006 Sonata and the four screws that hold the oem radio in WILL NOT turn. I can usually do it with my trusty screwdriver but no luck. So I got out our 14.4v Black & Decker with a mostly charged battery and it couldn't turn them either. My dad says I need to drill them out but I'm not sure how to to that. They're semi-stripped now too so yeah. Any help would be appreciated.

Whats the best way to cut a 14in diameter hole in plexiglass? Also, cut a 5in diameter hole in fiberglass? Thanks.

I had so e spare time on my hands so I figured I would relocate my switches and bass knob. Let me know what you guys think!!!! I'll get some pics of it installed tommorow!!!

hello all! i just ordered my 18" FI BL driver and am working on designing a box for this beast. i figured id go big as i am leaving for basic training(US Army) in about 6 months. Im looking to take the backseat out of my jeep wrangler and replace it with a fairly large box for this woofer. iv built some smaller sealed boxes and they have all come out fine but this will be my first time building a vented box any advice that you can share would be amazing and i thank you in advance. As far as the sub goes these are the specs that FI gives for it, i measured out my jeep and got some measurements that would work, i came up with a width of 32" a height of 16"(was planning on h…

Current setup for my 15" Xcon: Sealed enclosure with dimensions - H: 17" W: 32" D: 15" Total space I have is: So I want to do sub up, port side firing w/ aero ... Does this looks good in Torres' calculator???:

Building a new box for 1 15". Was gunna make it an abnormal shape as opposed to the everyday cube. I've heard that less parallel sides results in less standing waves, but I don't think it would be too noticeable in car audio. Anyway my point is wanting opinion on the ideal shape of a box. Also plan to port it. Thanks.

I'm wanting to get some feedback/advice on this box I'm working on for my recent purchase from SSA. Any glaring problems in the design? It will fill the area between the back seat and hatch in an '05 Scion xB. Three 10" SSA DCON S4 subs wired to 1.34 ohm Amp: Audiopipe APSM-1300 (1000w @ 1 ohm) - will be replaced eventually, when funds allow Gross volume: 3.95 ft^3 Net volume: 3.3 ft^3 Port Dimensions: 3.75" x 11" x 27.6" Port area: 41.25 in^2 Desired tuning: 32Hz Would it be better to make the box taller and use a square port with more port area, and longer, in the same location?

Would anyone like to help me design a box? please and thank you! here's all the info i can share so far, until i can get some measurements. 16" depth x 24" tall x 48" wide 2 12" d1 xcon's sundown 3000d ported anywhere from 28-33hz this will be my first dual sub setup and i have no idea where to start. i'd like to keep the box 5cu ft or smaller (if possible) thanks in advanced and hopefully tomorrow or the next few days, i can get some solid measurements to work with.