SPL & SQ / Fabrication

hello everyone, im trying to help my friend build a box for his 2 15 inch dc xls . he has a mercury mountaineer like 2001-2002 model. he wants it ported, subs facing up and port facing back . the thing is he wants plexiglass facing the rear as well so we can see the subs. idk if thats good or bad to have the plexiglass and port on the same side? also if anyone can recommend a good site or program to help me do some designs .. he wants tuning at 35hz. or if someone can sketch up a design for me with measurements that would be great! please help a brother out lol. we're looking at 15 cubic ft of space or so for the box,

well yesterday i took all of my max dimensions and came up with 7.1cf. and thats before port and sub displacement.... so i have a few questions about this.... 1. will this box (after sub and port displacement) be big enough (doing 1 big single chamber) & 2. what would be a good port width to go with? jaycee said tuning them @34hz would be a good start but im not sure on how wide to make the port. any thoughts???? 3. i was told that in a truck, having the subs and port both up gets the best results. is this true? im using 2 10" kicker solo x's

So my build calls for my 4" aeros to be about 38" long so I have to do some piping in my box with 90 and 45 degree turns. When measuring I'm assuming I stay in the middle the whole time and measure flare tip to tip? The turns are what throw me off when measuring. Thanks guys

Hey guys, this is the very start of my first diy build, I've never installed a speaker in my life before today! But- I got the co-axial 6x9's into my doors this morning no problem! However, now I have a problem. I have a component set that I was going to run the 6.5's in the back door of my Jeep Grand Cherokee, and I was going to run the tweeters up front in the dash. It just so happens the tweets don't fit in the dash. Should I try mounting them on the back doors somehow? Or a pillar? Here are a few pictures. Any ideas on where to place the tweeters would be much appreciated, I'm fine with not having them next to the 6.5's. I have never worked with fiberglass, and…

Wassup y'all, I'm about to start a box for a 21 in death penalty. I'm going for 9 cubes at 30hz with 3 8in aero ports which equals 150in of port area. Is that too much? I've heard the sub will not handle much power? Someone help me out haha

I designed Shogen a box, I just want him to see what it should look like when he's done. And I SUCK at Sketch Up. Who's good?

I am in the process of selecting drivers for a 3-way active setup in my car. I drive a small four door sedan. My design goal is to achieve a realistic soundstage. I will not be using rear fill. I will be using two 12" subwoofers for the substage. For processing duties I will be using a JBL MS-8. I had tossed the idea of using HLCD's but I realize that that maybe more difficult than what I have the patience for I do not have time to 'glass kick pods or build crazy door pods. So the install of these drivers will be somewhat simple but I realize that I may need to do a little fabrication. All drivers will be aimed accordingly. But generally this is where the placement will…

Ive been wanting a 6thorder for a while. I wanna try to build one for one of my sundown sa-15s i dont how big to make the chambers or the tuning. I listen to all rap and songs with low bass. Idk what do do someone help me. And what types of wood can i use?

I am thinking about putting 2 SA-8 in my truck. I have a reg cab 03 S10. I need something small cause of the room issue. The box calculator on the RE Audio site gave me some weird dimensions. Like the port only having .25 inches gap to the back plate with a fz of around 33hz. Does that sound right? Any ideas would be appreciated. Thanks

I have 15" height with 38" width in my trunk. If it could be made down to 36" width and just longer that would be great. I'm going to be housing two SA12s on a 1500d. Specs of the site say 1.75 each at 30 hz so 3.5 at 30 should be right then correct? If it helps I always listen to rap with a lot of low notes. I currently have a design from this site for a 3.2 cube that I will build tomorrow but if someone can help me out with a design tonight that would be great. 3/4 MDF. THANKS!

How does this look for a box plan. I am looking at going ahead and buying a 21in DP since I have plenty of airspace to work with. I also wanted as much cone area as possible that would be ok powered by my Saz-1500v.2. This would replace the rear seats in my 07 F250 and would be at window line. Goal is to hammer the lows, get loud as piss and sound good doing it. Will this work or should I change anything. Sub / Port will be facing forward. Around 10cu tuned at 30hz I got no responses in the IA section so it may be better suited here.

As the title said I am looking for the best options for my install. I am thinking of just using the HU power beacuse I honestly don't want an amp in there right now. I have a mediocre at best JVC HU for the moment, and stock speakers. The dash takes 4" speakers and the back (which I could give a shit less about) is 6x8 IIRC. Sean (M5) had asked for some pictures with a 3" circle around the A pillar (if I understood right). Well Sean all I had laying around is a 2" challenge coin so hopefully this will work nonetheless. My goals are loud, clear-ish (not a SQ guru but I know what muddy music and just off music sounds like) music for daily driving around. Especially with t…

I need some music in the garage while i work on my car so it's not dead out there... I have spare parts from car audio that i will use, so as u see, nothing in specific like building in the car... I have a 10" sub Audiobahn Eternal wired to sundown 100.4 bridged at 8ohm. Outputting only ~108w on a test tone is PLENTY of power for this 10" sub. It can successfully drop down to 20hz on some custom music i made so i know it's not a bad driver to use for simple music setup. Now, the box i have it in is not suitable.. but i have a problem... The low end extension doesn't become really audible below ~30hz unless i am standing 20ft away from it. How can I get decent low end outp…

Over the course of a few years, I've seen many different positioning ways for kick pods. Is there one way that's the best for imaging but due to the different dashboards on vehicles, you see some positioned differently? I'm assuming it also depends what speakers are mounted in the kicks. I'm using exodus ex-anarchys for midbass + midrange. http://www.diycable.com/main/product_info.php?products_id=538 I'm using peerless hds tweets for the highs. http://www.europe-audio.com/Product.asp?Product_ID=5233 Due to the size of my kick panel area and the relatively large mid driver, one of the drivers is going to be slightly tucked under the dash. I'm assuming it's better to "tuck"…

dont know if it is posted anywhere if so i apologize but i was wondering if anyone here is willing to give me a sweep and some test tones from 20hz to 70hz or somthing please??? i might even gift them some cash from paypal

So I couldn't sleep last night and decided to start designing the box I want to build for my 4 SA-10s that im getting in next week. Thought I'd post up the pics.... Also, After discussing yesterday with a few of you and trying to decide how to do port area and everything with some aero ports, I decided on the (4) 4" aero ports.. But then after I designed it and everything I realized that the tuning you guys said was about 39hz.... and Sundown recommends 30-35hz for these subs.. 39hz was like the only tuning we could get to work in order to get enough port area for my setup.. So I wanted to make sure before I buy everything and build this,.. Are the subs going to do/sound …

Well im starting to gather all the parts to build an active 3way setup. I know what im getting into and i know its probably far more complicated than im expecting but i love the challenge. I plan to build pods for the midbass and midrange. The tweeters i plan to mold into the factory location on the door pillar say it stages correctly in that location. Im welcome to all suggestions when it comes speaker choice as im still considering lots of options. I tend to like a smoother highend with alot of punch in the midrange if thats of any help. As for budget ill put a max per driver price beside the speaker type. Im not saying these are for sure max but its what im tr…

Okay I'm seriously considering going active for a few reasons: I want midbass with authority, hopefully better sq since I can tune everything, and I like to fiddle and adjust shit like crazy so this will give me something to work on and "perfect" so to speak. Tweeters and or mid range can fiberglassed to a-pillars or installed in dash. I'll likely try both. Midbass 6.5s will be in kick panels. I once heard a hybrid audio demo car and it has 4" mid ranges, 6.5" midbass, and 8" subwoofers, no tweeters, and it sounded awesome. Not saying that I'll be able to get away with not using a tweeter. Let's start from the bottom. Midbass I'm looking at: peerless sls 6.5s http://www.m…

so this last weekend i went to my first ever spl competition and i didnt meter as well as i would have hoped but people were nice enough to help me out. one of the suggestions was find the right hertz for my truck. so i was hoping someone on here has a truck like or knows someone that has a truck like mine and knows the right hertz for my truck. i have a two door tahoe i have 4 12'' ppi pcx subs in a 6.5 cubic foot box with two 6'' round ports tuned at 32 hertz. i got told that i need to make a square wooden port and it needs to be at least 18'' in length i dont know if thats right or not so id thought id ask. i plan on making another new port this weekend for my next c…

Ok so I purchased 3 SA-10s off someone on here and should get them within a week. I really wanted to build a box with a port because lots have said SA-10s really shine ported.. but i wasnt so good at figuring out all the math for the port and even worse we sucked at knowing how to build it good.. ( first box ported we made really ) So I have been looking at these circular ports like tubes you add as the port and it seems much simpler to me.. if I understand it correctly and I tried to use 12volt.com to help me figure out port length and size and stuff.. So could someone explain to me how you build a port with the circular tubing or aero whatever it is i guess? is it serio…

ok so i got a 4runner and im running 1000 watts for a skar vvx-10 that should be here in couple days. Howevers i built a box at 1.25 tuned to 30 hertz and too me it seems like a big box just for a single 10, so the question i ask is the box to big or not tune right for my 4runner thanks

So here's the deal. I have a Sundown 1200D, a Sundown 125.2 powering my setup. I will breeze over the 125.2 which will be hooked up to 2 sets of Polk db6501 components (2 ohm load) on each channel giving me a net of 100 watts to each speaker. I am building a CUSTOM box for a12" TC Sounds LMS-R sub. This sub can handle 1k watts continuos and 4k peak. I can wire this sub to be a 1 ohm load which is a load my 1200D can handle (giving out 1200 watts). I am trying to decide if I should port the box I am planning on building needs a port or not, and if so how long, size, ect I need it to be. I believe I correctly modeled the Treo TE sub I have now (in a ported probox) in t…

I just bought a 18" FI BTLN2 and was wondering what is the best way to build my box. It is going in the back of a '97 nissan pathfinder. I know you need 3/4" MDF for the box but can you use 1/2"? thanks

This will be my first wall build, I've been doing a lot of reading and looking at build logs. I should start by saying the plan is 2-3 (if I can fit 3) RE XXX 15's, on either a DC Audio 12k or Stetsom 14K. I think I'm going to go with Baltic Birch for weight and strength, I am seeing guys using 2 by 4 bracing, also seeing them use it for the back of the wall outside, what is the purpose? is it needed? what other ways would you strengthen the wall or face? the subs weigh 76lbs a piece. I was thinking 3-4 layer front face, double layer everywhere else, fully resin the box. How much bracing would you recommend? If you have pics or anything else you might recommend I'm open …

Hey all.I have a few questions about walls for car audio in cars.I have wanted a wall ever since i got into car audio but ive had a few concerns about them.Here are a couple of questions/concerns I have about them. 1.About how much does a wall weigh on average? ( I was told i could get a wall built in my car that would weigh about 300lbs made of birchwood.Is that possible?) 2.Is it a must to have air shock or whatever in the rear of the car (I have a 2001 Mitsubishi Galant ES 2.4L and it would cost over a grand to put airshocks in.) 3.Do you guys think my car could handle the weight of a wall? i VERY BADLY want a wall in my car and I know I will not stop fiddling with my …