SPL & SQ / Fabrication

I've posted this on some other places and I'm trying to get some feedback..I've ran into a dilemma. I don't know if I should carpet my door panels or if I should just go ahead and paint them. I have quite a bit of black carpet lying around and I think paint wouldn't be as durable since door panels can flex from every day use and it's kind of tedious prepping plastic for paint. Four 6.5's in each door. passenger side:

Looking for a tutorial or some instructions on how to build the covers for door pods. I can build the pods, just was wondering how to go about making custom grills/coverings for the pod. Thanks for the help

Price completly aside, how much better sound quality would you get with door pods vs components in a fully deadened door? I have a Crown Vic and my main goal is to get the best possible sound out of the components I'm gonna be getting. I'm going with the Image Dynamics XS series components. If I get them in the doors I'm gonna go with stock size 5x7s(XS-57). If I do the pods I'll go with the 6.5s(XS-65). Again my main goal is the sound quality of the comps so if the door pods sound just slightly better, than I'll pass. If the difference is dramatic though, its something I'm really gonna take a look at. I know there are a lot of variables involved in anything like this s…

I have my gcon in and it absolutely exceeds my expectations so now onto the next project. I want to go 3 way active and do a good door install. I have plenty of mdf and some mdf rings already. I also have duct seal to help add mass to the baffles. My goal is to increase midbass and keep the top end sparkle hence why I want to go 3 way instead of trying to pair a dedicated midbass with a tweeter or fullrange. My doors have a 6.5" speaker and a 2.5" speaker stock so that's what I am working with. I cannot alter the outside appearance of the door panel. My constraints are: Midbass: 6.5-7" and max of 3.5" deep Midrange: 2-3.5" and max of 3" deep. The tweeter is mounted above …

My question is, is it worth it to double up on 3/4" mdf on all sides, or should i just strengthen the side holding the sub? 18" Fi Bl--- p chamfer and flatwind 39"x18"x22" (sub is on 39x22 side) tuned to 34.4xxx hz any suggestions? thanks. also, this is a daily driver, not going to a termlab anytime soon, just want it to be a good, solid setup for daily driving.

I am ready to finish my box this weekend for my BTL but have a few questions first. When I attach the baffle with the second piece, will the port tuning be changed at all? The top will not be flush after I add the second piece. Ive been looking in the build logs and wherever I can to see if this is what everybody else does. No luck so far. I know its only one side of the port but I want to get it right and not waste wood. Hopefully you guys understand what I am trying to say. I bought like a 2x2 stick for the bracing as it was cheaper than the closet poles. Can I shave off the corners so there isnt such a big edge or should I just go get closet poles? This wont be my fin…

could someone please double check these numbers. I know this box is small but that is all i have to work with and its still at the minimum.

Double post.. sorry Hello all . Im in beginning stages of design for my 2002 PT Cruiser Enclosure. This will be my first year competing in the lanes for SPL. I know its correct to have a daily box and a burp box, but I would like to get as close of a mix in one box as possible. My initial thoughts would be to have subs facing up and slot port facing up as well because of the lack of room. So far I am just looking for any advice I can get. Max Dimensions: 39w x 20h x 14d. Would prefer port in between subs but If it doesnt make a difference, im flexible. Am I on the right track? Any help would be appreciated.

I saw this on a video and I want to know if its possible for me. Here is some info: I want to go with the musical ported measurements. 2.5^ft., 4" Vd, 13.5" Vl, tuned to 28htz I want the outside length to be 31" (including ports) max, I want it 14" high. What I don't know is the depth. I have a 3000 watt amp and listen to various kinds of music. If someone can help me on the dimensions and maybe even a plot of the spl curve, it would be greatly appreciated and I can get to building. Thank You. Edited to add, If I left anything out, please let me know so I can provide you with the info. Thanks

Alright, well as stupid as this Topic sounds, i have had a lot of questions from other people and myself. When you are building a box we all know that people don't just use 1 layer of MDF, they use 2-3 in heavy applications. In my instance, building a wall. So when i first started thinking/building my wall, i asked a older friend of mine (who is an aerospace engineer) to help me with building this. The only reason i add this in is to try and explain that he isn't a complete idiot. He also explained to me that because he works with airplanes he understands the concept of how vibrations cause things to break and how things have to be sealed. Not only that but he is very cra…

So I was using this box for my current 12" IDQ sub. The opening was ofcourse cut larger to accept the 12" sub since the box was designed for a 10. Was asking around and the idea was to use this design for my Icon sub that I purchased since I was getting rid of the IDQ. I downloaded the pre-designed enclosures for the Icon and after seeing them, I'm a bit unsure about now using my current box for this sub. Do you guys think the box below would work fine for the Icon? My current box is 1.45 cu ft @ 32hz. I knew it was going to be on the small size, but was told it would work fine. My main problem is space in the trunk of my car. I dont want a huge box and the 12 1/2…

i am about to attempt to build my first box for my two db drive platinum 12s and a few friends have been telling me that a down fire box would be the way to go I am wondering if it really makes any difference in the bass level or spl I also planning on porting the box but I'm not sure where the best location for the port would be I'm new to all this when it comes to fabricating an enclosure. Its going to be about a 4 cubic foot box in an extended cab s10 with the port tuned to around 32-35 hertz. Any help or suggestions would be appreciated.

I'm considering building a down fire for 2 D-CON 10's. Will be subs down,port back, box against back seat. Going in a Land Rover. I only cosider this because I do use the cargo area often and want keep the subs out of harms way. My question is how much room do I need between the floor and the woofers???? And should I just elevate the box by the end plates or do a 3sided lift leaving only the rear open???? Or is it a bad idea all together???? Is a daily thumper setup.......just want to keep my investment safe.

As always, I have been running around with ideas for the time when I have the money to actually do something with them. I have a large trunk, however with an extremely small opening to get into the trunk, and so I have always had to restrict the size of any box i intend to build so that i can sqeeze it past that opening. So for my next idea... how would it sound to have a single downfiring 15" ssd in a sealed box? For now it would be recieving only 500 watts rms untill I could upgrade. It would be raised 4 inches off of a wooden base, in a 18"X18"X10.75" box (interior dimensions). I have never seen this done in a trunk so i'm curious about its effects. My goals are a "cl…

A buddy of mine wants me to design and build him a downfire box for his ext cab ranger. My question is how much is the minimal amount of distance you should leave between the sub baffle and the floor?

I'm trying to figure out an enclosure configuration for 3 SA-10s, just not sure which way to go. Was looking at doing a downfire enclosure with an aeroport(s) firing to the side,. Just curious if there is any drawbacks to something like this. I like the idea of it being less visible, as well being a little more protected from the elements if the top is down. If it's a terrible idea, I'm all ears for better options. Thanks

If you're building a downfire enclosure, how do you calculate the distance from the floor? I've searched and haven't found a definitive answer. All i've found is calculations for woofer sag and "just do 3"-4" from the floor." Half the radius, or plus 5% of Xmax... What? Help please! Thank you.

i have a 16x19 area for the bottom of my box. im downfiring my ICON 10. any reason to have the whole bottom elevated instead of just a 12 inch square around the sub? Im trying to gain some volume anywhere i can.

I am in the process of selecting drivers for a 3-way active setup in my car. I drive a small four door sedan. My design goal is to achieve a realistic soundstage. I will not be using rear fill. I will be using two 12" subwoofers for the substage. For processing duties I will be using a JBL MS-8. I had tossed the idea of using HLCD's but I realize that that maybe more difficult than what I have the patience for I do not have time to 'glass kick pods or build crazy door pods. So the install of these drivers will be somewhat simple but I realize that I may need to do a little fabrication. All drivers will be aimed accordingly. But generally this is where the placement will…

Hi, Been out of the game for a bit after selling my system, 2x15" SSA Icons in 7.2cubes net 32hz on Crescendo BC2000D. Anyways Im picking up 2 12" SSA Xcons for a crazy price and want to put them in my 03 Dodge 3500. I only want to lose 1 seat so dimensions are a bit tight. 32" tall x21" wide by 25" deep. I think I can get around 5 cubic feet net, (may be able to gain an inch or two on depth) question is how much port area should I aim for? They will be ran on low power, JL JX1000 for now so only 500rms each. Probably wont be adding much more as I dont have the money for electrical or space. if I aim for 70+ and around 5 cubic feet would that be ok? Thanks, Codester

looking for some info on a spl ported box design for 2 15" dc level 4 or where i may look into getting one built????

Okay, it's about time to put my Sundown SAZ 3000D to good use, I've finally settled on subs, they are Crossfire XP 15's that I will get for super cheap and they are high quality subwoofers: http://crossfirecaraudio.com/htdoc/cf_m01_product_05_xs.asp#. I have some dimensions worked out, I used the SSA Box Calculator and I believe it's all worked out, I just need help bringing the calculator measurements to life! http://www.soundsolutionsaudio.com/home/in...int=1&page= Can someone give me a hand on how to put that on paper so I can build it?

I would like some input on building an enclosure for 2 ZCON 15D2's. The max cubes available for the box is 7(3.5 per sub) after displacements. I want to tune at 31hz. I have seen the recommendations SSA's site for enclosures but would like to have some outside information on how well these will do in 7 cubes . They will be running off a SAZ3500 at .5ohms. Thanks.

im going to have two FI BL 15s and i want a good enclosure. my max dimensions are 50 inches in width, 28 inches in height, and 25 inches in depth, and i kinda wanted a design plan such as the port dimensions and should i go double or single baffle?

I have read alot on building ported boxes in the past couple of days but here is what i was planning on.... Putting two kicker 12" L7's in a ported box. Here is my ? When porting the box is it more efficent to put one port out the middle where both chambers connect to, or to port each individual enclosure on either side/ or in the middle just separated!? If using just one port is there a need to separated the two chambers before the port?? THanks!@