SPL & SQ / Fabrication

What I HOPE to attain is a great sounding sub stage (I have two SA-8s) that gets REAL low and is real tight. What makes my goal a bit different than most requests is that I don't care about volume (SPL), I will never put a meter on it to check my SPL... I want low extension, and tight bass with very little hump in the response curve (I realize it is nearly impossible to get a flat sound from a ported box). Vehicle : 2013 Jeep Wrangler Unlimited soft top Location in the vehicle: back cargo area Space available (Length x Width x Height): 37.5 x Any x Any Subwoofer make and model: SA-8 V2 Subwoofer Size: 8 inch Number of Subwoofers: 2 Type of Port (Kerfed, Slot, Aero, etc.…

I'll soon be picking up a second Skar VVX which leaves me to a new box build (: It'll be going in the rear cargo area of a 99 Jeep Grand Cherokee I'd did it tuned somewhere around 33-34Hz and about 5 cubes after displacement Subs up and port back Will be using 3/4 mdf and the top will be a double baffle (2 3/4 pieces) and the subs will be countersunk will be building an amp rack off the back (so facing the front of the car) but that really isnt part of the box design Max dim are 40 wide 25 deep and 20 tall, (pref 15 tall though) Everything I will be running is 2 Skar VVX 15's D4 wired to 1 ohm Concept HPN-1500 (clamped clean at 1100) Big 3 upgrade (to be done when i buil…

What do they look like and are they good? i ask cause i have someone willing to build one in a trade for a DD2512...

im 'this' close to putting my rl-p back into i.b. config-the sound was just to my likeing- but it will mean sealing up the trunk (fold down seats-rear shelf) properly. im thinking fibre glass and mdf and bondo and expanding foam? any sujjestions before i make mistakes?

So I got a box off ebay. Omg yes I did it. I am looking at it. Fits well looks good it's solid but the inside shows a different story. My speaker cups have huge gapr around them where air can escape. The glue is not thick or sealing the box very well. No I am not building a new one. a few questions. 1= What would you use to reglue it from the inside?? 2= What would you cover the terminal holes with?? 3= what are you installing the speaker with??

I Just got a pair of Eclipse 8062 6.5" mid-bass's with there crossovers, and no tweeters for $60. I thought it was a good deal so i got them, I needed a upgrade from my polk db 4x6's. I tried the eclipse out in the house in a quickly made box and they sounded great, but I cannot get them to fit in the car where they will be completely sealed like they need to be. My speaker holes are 4x6" on the top of my dash facing the windshield in each corner (I will post pics). I need help figuring out a good solution to where they will sound good and look kinda decent in the car. I can't put them in the doors and i am not allowed to do any permanent modifications to this car. So wha…

I just picked up a NIB sw9122 and all that was in the box was 1 page of the owners manual and the mounting hardware. So I need to know what works good for a ported enclosure? How many cubes, freq., and port area? It will be running off a Audio Art 100hc, so in the neighborhood of 1000W. I am thinking somewhere 2-2.25^3 ported to 32hz but not sure on port area, seems this sub will move a lot of air.

hey guys, i was looking for the recommended enclosure size for the eclipse sw9122, and i cant find them anywhere, my specs of my trunk are 35" wide, 20" deep and 22" tall...but that is way to big for this 12 i would think. i have been searching google and bing for about 2 hrs and all i can find is what other people have used. any help would b great. thanx.

Has anyone used eDead for sound dampening. I know that their subwoofers arent great, is this true with their dampening materials as well? I won't pay the outrageous price for Dynamat, I can't afford to spend $400+ to do my car. I can get eDead for .80 cents per square foot. Even if i had to double it up, it would still be considerably cheaper than Dynamat, Second Skin, etc. What do you guys think?

Looking at sub manufacturer recommendations, box sizes for each sub can vary by quite a bit. I'm just curious what the difference is. I know that a larger box decreases power handling of the woofer, but is there any difference in sound? Is a smaller box more susceptible to peaking? Sorry for the newb question - I'm trying to decide what will fit in the trunk. Thanks guys.

The goal of this topic is to discuss the possible effects fiberglassing the inside of a subwoofer enclosure has on the sound? I am currently building my enclosure and am using fiberglass to make the box more ridged, prevent air leaks, prevent flexing, raise the boxes failure point of the box, and I just like building things heavy duty. I honestly never thought about the fiberglass effecting the sound until Pork Chop brought it up last night. I used the search function but did not find anything about effects on sound from fiberglassing an enclosure. I would like to hear some opinions about this from people that have experience with a fiberglassed sub box. I would also …

alrite i started a thread on here not to long ago abou tthe elastomeric coating that steve meade used on the inside of the his box and didntt get many replys. i am pretty much done with glassin the inside of my box but i havent started sanding yet. i read about painting the inside with 2 stage paint making it alot louder becasue the waves travel better across a smooth hard surface. but the only problem is i would have to sand the inside to no end. i was plannin on sanding it to an extent and then sprayin it with spray filler primer and going from there. but i have a deadline in a few months and i dont know if this is going to be possible. another factor is that i will bea…

I currently have my sub in a poorly designed enclosure accidently tuned to 53hz. Im going to have my dad build me a new one for my birthday. I designed one using the RE calc and came out with a "classic" L port box with the sub and port on same side, tuned to 31.5hz a 4.03 cubes. I want to have the sub facing up and the port back though because i use my trunk frequently and am paranoid about my sub. My question is how would i go about designing this? The total dimensions for the box i designed with sub and port same side are 26" W 21" H 20"D. I also was wondering how this would affect the sound and volume. Thanks alot for the help.

Just bought 2 of the old version BTL 12s loaded with the 3rd mag and everything. But Im trying to save space for more room for my batteries and amps. My amps are going to consist of a T40001BD and a T5002. Im going to do a semi blowthrough in the trunk of my Thunderbird in which the back seats do not fold down but Im going to cut out the rear armrest and use it to help let bass escape into the cabin. I wanted my enclosure to be subs and ports forward sealed off from the trunk. I'll have about 8" between the back of the seat and the front of the enclosure. My deminsions will be (double baffled) 15"H x 38.25"W x 23"D. After sub displacement,bracing, and 45 degree corners (r…

hello hello. ive just built box for (2) Nightshade 15's, its tuned at 33 hz and really gets down.. im trying to brace my box and dont wanna take a chance of screwing up my tuning and overall eclosure. my box measures 49x24x20. with a port opening of 18.5hx8.5t. i guess im seeking advice on placement and what exatly would be the best to use. my face is doubled and my overall box is 1.25 thick.

When Calculating port length, How can you enter the box volume after port displacement, without knowing what the port length will be. Or do you put in what you want your box to be after the displacements and then design a box that takes this into account. For example, if you want a box to be 4.5 cuft. after displacements you would use this to calculate the port length. Then after you have that you would calculate the port displacement lets say is .5 , SO you would do .5 + 4.5 to get 5 cuft., then design a box that is five cuft before port displacement and use the port length that was calculated to get the desired tuning? If someone needs further explanation please ask. …

Ok, where do you guys buy your carpet for your builds? I want some really good carpet that doesnt have a bunch of crap on the back and is easy to use. I will be carpeting parts of my box, trim work and false floor. I've always used 3M 77 glue but I saw where some folks were spraying on that contact cement stuff. There really isnt much difference in the 2 right? I was checking out a lot of Thumper's enclosure builds and that guy did really good work. His forum looks like it hasnt been active in a while. Any idea what he uses? Thanks for any help. TST

Is there an experienced designer that can help me with a design

can someone design me a box for two sundown audio zv.2 15's that will be going in a 04 impala here are the measurements W-35 H-17 D-30 i used the subwoofer calculator on the 12volt and i came up with 8 cubes

In process of getting my 15" zcon reconed to a 12" but I need to build the enclosure. Car is an "04 Grand prix trunk is painted with GT MAT which I've come to realize works real well. Sub back port back is what I'm trying to accomplish for now. I'll experiment later, but have come to realize that sub back port back sounds really well wamming off the trunk in the American cars I've owned. Running a group 34 up front with 2 XS power 975s in the rear. Stock alt will be replaced with a mech 270 in the near future. So I need to build this box to a 3k setup. Sub will be ran on a mmats m3000.1 with 2 runs of welding wire with knu kollossus filling the gaps big 3 exc. I …

So tomorrow I'm going to begin building my enclosure for 2 10" Skar IVX's. I'll just be running these as a temp. setup on a BRZ 1200.1 So onto my questions, is this optimum setup for my vehicle? (2001 honda accord) I've heard subs forward, port forward sounds louder to the listeners ear. Any truth behind this? Do I have enough port area? Should I be running subs up port forward? Or vice versa? Any input is greatly appreciated and thanks

Vehicle : Acura RSX (hatchback) Location in the vehicle: Hatch Space available (Length x Width x Height): max 20 L x 31W x 17 H Subwoofer make and model: SSA Icon D2 Subwoofer Size: 12 Number of Subwoofers: 1 Type of Port (Kerfed, Slot, Aero, etc.): Slot What type of music do you like?: Rap, Occassional Decaf Is your goal SPL or Everyday Music?: Everyday Rap Tuning Freq (Hz): 32? Volume : 2.1 after displacement, maybe more? Electrical: Kinetic HC1200 under the hood, and Kinetic HC1200 in the rear. Stock Alt. 0 gauge run front to back/grounds. Big 3 coming soon. Amp: Rockford T15001-bdcp Looking to ta…

I'm wanting to build a new enclosure for 2 12" Eclipse TI's sw-9122(tc 3HP) I currently have the in a CRX style enclosure 4ft3@35. Its in a CRX. This works well. I just want to try a different sttle enclosure. I really like the chambered t-lines Rich(stratus) from here and ROE designs. I'd like help designing a box like the one in the pciture below, its from a member on here. he did 2 separate boxes, but there CRX style sub up/port back.. so if anybody would like to give me a hand I apprecite it.. thanks, Joe

I have been working on an enclosure for 2 SSA Zcons. Spent the last week on these. Learning how to use sketch up and trying to understand torres calculation tool. I have come up with two designs using these. I am looking for some advice from someone to help me confirm my that what I have done is correct to what has been drawn. I could send my sketchup design to you for advice. I have used the torres calculation tuner to determine my port lengths and sizes. I am not 100% sure I have fully understand all senarios which change my calculations in this calculator.

Help Please. I want to build a ported box for 4 FI 15" BTL's Currently I have a 9 Cuft box with 2 FI 15" BTL's. Each sub in it's own enclosure. FI suggests 3-5 Cuft per sub. Can I make just one box for all 4 with one port? Or do I make a box that seperates all 4 or two? I like the sound with 4.5 Cuft per sub. I am also lost on the port area if I make one 18 Cuft box for all 4. Really appreciate your suggestions here. Thanks, JR