SPL & SQ / Fabrication

I'm assuming if i had one of those woofer testers to pull the T/S parameters of a speaker, it would pull different specs if i took a single DVC subwoofer and tested it wired in series, then tested it again in parallel. Well, i dont have one so i'm gonna rely on those experienced here to relay some info to me. I will be using 4 subwoofers, 2 subwoofers per amp. Each pair of subs are dual 1 ohm. I have 2 ways of wiring this- 1 - Parallel both subs then series them to the amp 2 - Series both subs then parallel them to the amp Is there a difference in SPL potential between the 2? this info is pertaining to a meter, not the ear. I notice when looking at specs of subs, in gener…

I'm just looking for some pointers on where I could look for reputable information on designing 2 way passive, 2 way active and (after some practice) eventually 3 way active front stages. Just stuff like, what to keep in mind as far as driver selection, particular features to look for when choosing a certain driver, and how to design passive crossovers. I was daydreaming and hit a roadblock when I realized, what the hell do I even know about a quality front stage? I can't say much at all, other than, deaden, and airseal the speakers. So I feel like it's time to start learning, might even have some applicable tips on hand for when the new truck is ready I'm plannin…

I'd appreciate any help you guys can give me on this.... I have a 12'' Nightshade on the way and need some help with the enclosure. I currently have a 10'' Fi BL in 1.6 cubes tuned to 35 hz in my reg cab Ranger. I know it isn't the prettiest thing in the world, but it's the optimum size for the 12'' Nightshade and I'd like to re-use it. My first problem is the mounting depth.....I'm going to have to add some spacer rings to allow the Nightshade to fit depth wise and obviously I'm going to have to increase the cutout to allow a 12'' 12 spoke basket to fit. I wanted to ask you guys what would be the best way to go about this? Should I make a few circular spacers around the…

so i took my box out of my car to add some fiberglass resin to it, and some supports, but i was wondering what side should a port be on for the best spl. passenger side or drivers side. the sub and port will be facing the trunk. Thanks,

NEED SOME HELP DESIGNING SYSTEM FOR 99 DODGE QUAD CAB, HAVE A FRIEND WITH CHEVY EXTENDED CAB WITH 2 ROCKFORD 10'S UNDER THE BACK SEAT AND SOME OTHER SPEAKERS IN THE FRONT DOOR PANELS. HE HAS 2 ROCKFORD 1200 AMPS, THIS THING ROCKS BETTER THAN ANY I HAVE EVER HEARD. I WANT MINE TO BE AS GOOD. DONT LIKE RAP OR BOOM BOOM MUSIC, WONT TO ROCK WITH LOTS OF BASS AND MID RANGE, METAL MUSIC COUNTRY AND CLASSIC ROCK. WANT TO USE ALL ROCKFORD FOSGATE STUFF, ANY SUGGESTIONS??? PLEASE HELP, THIS STUFF IS DIFFERENT THAN A SUPERTUNER 3 WITH 200 WATT EQ.

Okay, I have a guy that lives behind me that has three 12" Kicker CVR's . He currently has them in a very crappy box and is wanting me to throw a better box together for him. I stand to make a few bucks from this project. that is all. there is no possibility of him competing or even keeping this setup long term. just a better box than he has and some cash in ol' chop's pocket. So for the sake of getting good responses, i am not looking to buy these, i only want to get some good input on what volume and tunning would be good for them to get loud with. not a fart box, but i am sure he has no interest in catching the lows. I have not used these subs before..... off the top o…

You can see what Josh (funny guy ) drew up, and then you can see how I tried to tie it all together so all I need to do is lay out the components just like a picture. I used circles and boxes to save time I think the only thing I am unsure of are the woofer -'s and the mid +'s (keep the reversed polarity + (2x) driver in the tower) ... I don't know where I'm supposed to tie them into the neg path - don't know if I have it close to being correct or not, as I just threw them in there. I could always move them right to the main neg lead coming from the binding post if it makes a difference.

my friend is getting a 10" type R (powering it with a kicker 400.1). he's trying to keep the box as small as he can so i was thinking about using a flare tube port for the box. what diameter should we be looking at? any suggestion? (sub isnt purchased yet. but i havent seen anything better for 100 bucks shipped) edit: damn i think i put this is wrong section... please move if it is

I am planning on designing a box for my rli-8s I am getting and I am trying to figure out a way to latch down the box in 2 places. I want the box to sit in the well for daily driving and I want it to sit up top when I take the t-tops off. I want to design something like the back seats on the nissan quests. There is a compartment where it hinges down into to stow the seats. I am thinking about going to the junkyard and looking around for some hinges and latches that I could use. Does anyone have any ideas? I can draw it up in paint if yall want. Thanks guys

I was wondering if anyone would be able to make a sketchup for this box. and please correct me if my tuning is off. box is 4.33384 after sub displacement. W. 30 H. 20.5 D. 16 wood thickness .75 and the port being 32.5in long tuned to 32 hz with a kerfed radius of 3.

So I've had the car a year, and after a spring break trip to Florida, I found out that it's cramped with three passengers and luggage for a week. My brother should be getting a car within two years and he wants the current set up, so I'm getting a head start on my planning LOL, ready to pull the trigger when I get the money to do so. I built my own floor for the extra battery and some storage space. The sub box currently fits across the whole trunk from the back to the break in those side pieces. I want to put together two separate boxes, each to house either an SA-8 or an SD-8, sub facing back. I still want to keep access to my spare, so the cover I made for it …

Hi, A friend of mine who owns an Xcon15 has just built a new box for its baby monster sub. The old one was 3.5 cu ft at 32 Hz, and the new one is 3.7 cu ft at 32 Hz too. Not much more volume, the double baffle upside took quite a bit of what we expected. The new box has a kerf slot port : it's really beautiful, and was easy to do wit the design provided by Dylan. First try : got it !!! I will post pics tomorrow. Just wanted to say that the sound is different now. Don't know how to say it but it gives more low notes. We did not expect so much change!! And we love it!!! The owner had a processor(or active filter, I don't know exactly), he took it off. He turned the bass boo…

I am putting together a box for a single 12" xcon. It will net 2.7 ft^3 and be tuned to 30hz. My question is: how much difference will lining the inside of the box with resin make? Is it worth the extra time and money? This is a daily setup, I do not compete. Will my ears b able to tell the difference?

I would love to use PR for car audio application. Before I start designing the system I have a couple questions. 1. Will the automobile environment be too abusive for PRs? With a vehicle in motion, going over bumps and accelerating/deaccelerating, cause the PR's cone to move affecting performance? 2. I have read that downward firing a PR will cause the diaphragm to be displaced downward. If the PR is mounted cone up will the cause a similiar situation (diaphram sinks towards spiders)? In my current vehicle the only way I can use PRs is with cones pointed upward.

Any use this program to model stuff? If so, im too broke to pay for it

Ok I got my new install done which consist of 2 15 xcons facing cabin in a sealed box, ran off a crescendo BC 3500. My question is will it be a significant gain in output if I go with a ported box instead. Only reason we went sealed was shortage in trunk space given space we had enough for opt sealed enclosure. Any info?

Info: 2-10" Alpine Type-R's in a sealed enclosure made from 3/4" MDF Volume: .882 ft^3/sub Inside dimensions: 10"x10"x15.25"/sub Outside dimensions: 11"x11"x32" Cut pieces: 2-32"x10" top & bottom 2-32"x11" front (subs will be mounted here) & back 3-10"x10" 2-sides and center divider How does this look? I assumed that 3/4" MDF is like 3/4" plywood in that the actual thickness is 1/2", or am I wrong? Thanks, Ed

What I planned on doing is glueing a layer of plexiglass over the top of painted mdf. I want it to dry clear so there will be no glue marks. Is there anything out there that can do this? I have looked and all I could find was plexi to plexi glue. Any finds would be greatly appreciated.

Well looks like I will end up with 17.87cu before bracing and sub displacement. I really want to end up with 17cu total after. This is for 2 18in FI Q's on 3k watts. Box dimensions will be Outside 35h x 54w x 27d.... All sides double 3/4 MDF except front baffle will be triple. (may use some Birch for weight reduction) Usable inside demensions are 32h x 41.5w x 23.25d = 17.87cu Port is 8 x 32 = 256in total Sub displacement = .24... but I will be triple baffled so what maybe .22 or less?? Total of six 2in hardwood dowels for bracing =.35 2in wide 45's in corners =.10 So this leaves me with 17cuft tuned at 30hz after all is said and done. I may glass the inside as well? what…

Alright.. im kicking around the idea in my head to purchase a crescendo 3kwp to use with my 18" BTL (d2) .. when i had my box built for me he wanted to know what size amp i was going to use.. i told him the sundown 1500 (which is hooked up right now) ..he made the box on the larger side, i dont know exactly what the cu ft is.. thing i dont know is, should I do a new box up if i decide to throw a 3kw on it? Does my box size play a big role on the amount of power i feed my sub? Whipping up a new box will be a pain in the ass lol.. but if i go dump the money into a new amp then re building isnt gonna kill me. Im pretty sure I can answer this already.. i have a feeling the s…

For the past couple of months I have been playing around with imaging. been reading everything I could get my hands on, even picked several brains along the way. I started my project with simple goals in mind. But after listening to others systems, as well as my own. My goals keep getting raised I built the kicks allready. Temporarily using a pair of $1 crunch midbasses ( I love yard sales ) and a pair of large format PE silk domes. Simple inline crossovers. powered by an rf 200a4. To my amazement, and a few others. The sound was rather nice with no processing what so ever. So my goal has now changed once again. I was originally building towards a single seat soundstage…

Most people who made them have stopped. Who makes the best ones nowadays?

88120 TI - D3, well really a D4 so thinking some where around 2-2.5 cu ft. @ 32hz off of ~800w rms what do you guys think? Brandon

Aight, so I'm looking to buy a box for my 15" fi bl, since I cant find anyone to build it for me locally, cant get the dimensions, and cant figure it out myself lmao. Was wondering if any of you guys have heard of Shipsound.com? Their boxes are the size im looking for (the 4.3cf in particular), but their prices seem to good to be true, most of them are under $100. Just dont know what they are tuned to either. Heres the link, - ShipSound.com If they are indeed legit, I'm definitely buying through here.

Im new to building enclosures and would like to know the correct type/brand of screws and glue that i should be using. Thanks for the help!