SPL & SQ / Fabrication

Ok basically I had an ok box, performed well'ish, ported 2.4ft3 60sq" port @ 33hz, then I made an adaptor to sit over the front and channel the ported box into the cabin via the skii port. This worked a treat and made it much cleaner sounding and changed my tuning down to 27hz. Now, I have a new box finished I payed some $$ for and its 2.8ft3 tuned to 32hz with 50" inch of port, the concern is pretty much straight away below 32hz the sub seems to sort of get stuck in and doesnt excurt properly and have stuff all output also, what is this and what can cause it?? I know it could be a lack of backpressure in the box but the new box I thought was a much better design than m…

Hey everyone, Long time lurker here, finally decided to pull the trigger on a 12" ICON and would like recommendations for an enclosure. Given my driver choice I'm obviously going for sound quality. But who doesn't like a little bit of output? It will be going in an IS300 and run off of a PDX M12. My ICON will be seeing anywhere from 500-1k watts depending on where it blends best with my front stage. Anyway, I noticed that on the product information page for the ICON there are two different optimum enclosure size recommendations. Under the "Enclosure Recommendations" tab it lists ported optimal as 2.25 ft^3 @29-34hz whereas the "Pre-Designed Enclosures" tab has a l…

I'm gonna be helping a friend build a box for 2 cvr 15's. It will be in the trunk of a 4 door saturn ported through the rear deck. I haven't played with cvr's much so im not too sure how to get the most out of them. Space is limited so i was thinking maybe 7 cubes with 112" of port tuned around 50. Starting it this weekend and could really use some help. Anybody have experience with these subs in different boxes?

Attempting to fit two 18" drivers (fi bl) in 34" width. Each driver would be mounted to an angled piece of double baffle mdf. I made a simple rendering to give a visual: Width is 34", each angled piece would be 20"x20" and angled at 45degree angle. The distance from edge of box to where the angled pieces meet would be approx 10". enclosure will be ported, most likely with aero ports for the sake of being easy. Has anyone had any experience with a enclosure like this? output wise vs conventional ported enclosures? Does the fact of the drivers being angled towards each other cause any problems, cancellation, etc. any other input? thank you

I'm not very good with box designs but what do you, and by you I mean people that know about this stuff, think of running 1 SSA DCON in at roughly 2.5- 3ft^3 box with a passive radiator??? I like the idea and it would solve a few issues for me, but Im not shure how it would sound. I know thats a pretty big box for a DCON so what would the consequenses be?? This would be in a foward firing box in an 02 ext cab GMC sierra running at about 400watts. I know nothing about passive radiators except that there supposed to act kinda like ports, I think, so any help with tunning or suggesting a specific radiator would be appriciated.

Just starting to get really into car audio...Bought the Fi BL 18 last year and put it in a 4.0 cubic ft box running around 1100 RMS (i know its a small box, but its in a trunk).. haven't driven in over year, but about to start back up. My question is what makes the bass sound so different.. I mean my friend had 2 12's in a smaller box and his just sounds so clean and clear, while it sounds crisp inside, on the outside the car it really isn't banging like it is in the inside. My set up however just sounded mean and powerful inside the car and fairly loud on the outside..I've heard the terms (clean bass) and (dirty bass) before, but I'm not exactly sure what is meant by t…

http://www.cardomain.com/ride/2628702 I still need to update the pics with my new port and switched to 1 vfl 200.1 and trying to score a 2nd and have 4 different 15s on the way to try in it.

Sorry for being a thread whore tonight guys but I got a chance to really sit down on my laptop and do stuff and not work through my phone. ANYWAY Question: Can there be a certain tuning for a sealed box depending on size? IE: If you have a 1^3ft box sealed, and a 2^3ft box sealed, would the frequency response be the same with both boxes with the same driver? I've always wondered if there was a way to get a sealed box to produce lower frequencies with a good amount of output without having to port. Pretty much every sealed box I've heard peaks around 45-60hz and doesn't hit lows (35hz and lower) well at all. I didn't know if there was some kind of formula or concept that …

In anyone's experience, does it matter if the elbow of an L-Port is angled or kept at 90*? As far as sound quality or output is concerned.. It would be easier to build boxes with a 90* angle like that found on the RE box calculator. I've always used an angled elbow, as shown below.. It just seems to make sense, but just wondering!

I have 2 9515 DD's and I am building a new box. I need 75 square inches of port area. The square port I was going to use is 5 x 15 and is suppose to be 13.75 long. Do I measure the port from the front of the wood or the back? Also how far should my port be from the back of the box? I was thinking I might have to turn the port to get the length I need. The box inside measurement is 16" so the only would give me 2.25 inches from the back of the wood and 3.75 from the front.

I have 2 SSA Evil 15s My box Outside Dimensions is 41W x 31H x 21D / Double Baffled all the way arournd 1.5" Birch My box Inside Dimensions is 38W x 28H x 18D I have 2 Braces 1.5" x 3.5" x 38" and 1.5" x 3.5" x 18" I need help with designing a port. I would like to be tuned to 28hz / As you can see my Port is too Small. I dont want to remake the box i would like to Remove the Port and Fix this Box. Box inside Cubic Feet Empty 11.08 Brace Cubic Feet .17 Both Subs Displacement / 2 x .22each = .44

Basically those bars connect the hinges from the left and right of trunk lid. They are bent in that way to accommodate the 6x9 speakers. I am going to remove the speakers this week. Could I replace them with some straight bar???

Alright, iv basically all over the map trying to consider what type of subs i wanted. Iv made up my mind now and i kind of wanted to know your opinion. I was thinking about going with two Fi 12"Q's, OR two Fi 15" Q's in a ported box, running off a Crescendo BC2000D. Now in order to eliminate trunk rattle, i was told sealing it off from the trunk and firing it forward was a good idea. The only problem is that i cant fold my rear seats down, now i do have the option of buying rear folding seats for about $300. I guess i dont really have a specific question.. just tell me what you think, any improvements or different ideas you think would work best. Since im…

Hey guys I have a couple questions. I did a build on 2- SA-12" V.2 Nightshade and I had a custom box built that is 3.0 cf box w/ a port face that is 40x1.2" and is 23" long (specs I got from SA). The subs are firing up and the port is firing back at the bottom of the box. This roughly give me 48 inches of port tuned at 36 hrz, I heard from SA tech that I needed 15 inches of port for each SQ FT. It sounds great, the only problem is it doesn't sound as loud as my ProBox super bass box did. Any suggestions? I talked with SA tech again and they said raise the tuning frequency by cutting off a little off of the port. I checked with ProBox and the Super Bass Boxes are tuned at …

Alright, so only 10 days after i built my first box iv decided that its no good an i need to build a new one. Currently i have my box only 5.5 cubes for my 18" BTL.. with it only being powered by 1500 watts this isnt the most efficient setup. For my new box, i was going to build it closer to 7.5 cubes, sub up, port up. Now what i wanted to do was have the port 5-6 inches out of the box so that i could flush mount it to the rear deck, then seal the whole thing off from the trunk. The box designer says for 32hz my port will be 28.75" long, 8.5" wide and 13.5" tall. Now could i simply 'slide' the port out 5-6 inches or would that effect the tuning? Sorry if thats a bit…

I'm currently building an enclosure for 1 Fi BL, (15") and I was wondering, which box will better suit the sub, (both will be tuned to 32Hz). 4cuft 4.9cuft See signature for car and current setup info. Thanks

Got bored looking at the new sub in the cardboard box from Fi and then i though duck tape and all hell broke loose!!!!

http://www.buwaldahybrids.com/phpBB3/viewt...?f=7&t=3362 any thoughts?

what paints and primers should i use to paint a subwoofer box i want it to have a glossy black look thanks -Irvin

Subs:2, Sundown Audio E-12 v1, 400rms Amp: Hifonics 1700.1 wired to 1 ohm (so 850rms per sub) Box. Custom mustang vert box, .9 cubes per sub sealed. Right now the E-12s are reversed mounted to get the most usable airspace. Is there a subwoofer that would better handle the power such as the soundqubed HDS 200 or 300. Also, should I stuff the box with polyfill or something? I can't turn my volume up to even half on some songs before the subs start to distort or bottom out. So what can I do to improve my setup?

Hey guys, I have my second Xcon and needing new enclosure but have been debating staying ported or going back to sealed (save cargo space) Anyway, I am first time user of Winisd and not sure if I did this correct so could someone let me know if it looks ok? How do you interpret this graph? To me it looks like ported is the way to go. (I modeled using two 15" Xcons at 1000rms each) Let me know if you need any additional info about my setup...believe my SUV cabin gain peaks @ 49 Hz.

Hi, I finally decided on building my own HT subwoofer (50%HT and 50$ music) and I want to build the best I can of cours at a reasonnable price. I believe I should go with a 18" and planning on using a 7cu3 box. I also love massive bass and I would agree to have a little more power even if I loose a little quality, this is why I am going with a ported box. Now, is the Fi Q 18 would be my best bet? What about the TEAM serie? I don't know yet what frequency I will be using, somewhere arounf 30hz? For the box, here is the 18" shema : http://www.soundsolutionsaudio.com/forum/topic/44520-q-series-cut-sheets/ Thank for your help!

I need to build a slanted box and obviously the port is going to need bending. Should I go with a labyrinth port or an l-shaped port ? How do I calculate the lenght of the port, because the top part of it is going to be shorter than the bottom. Should I average the lengths ? A couple pictures might help... To my understanding that would be an overall length of ~40cm. Am I right or am I terribly wrong ?

I think the biggest thing that caused my van build to sink right away was my decision to place the front stage drivers in the ceiling. Right away everyone was angered and outraged that i would put such great drivers in such a terrible location. However, my point of view is that most drivers are placed in the doors...where the seat, floor, and human body block, deflect, absorb, and tamper with the sound in every way. If the drivers are down on the floor in kicks and down in the door, they are faced up to raise the sound stage. How is that different than putting them up high and facing them down? I am sure that it does make a huge difference, so if I was out strictly to com…

I was bored so I went & picked up 2 12s from a flea market this past weekend to experiment with. Made my first box throughout this week & tuned it to 32hz. If I wanted to tune it to 30hz would I add or cut off some wood to the end of the ports behind the subs? I can do the math but need a starting point. Also another separate question, would more port area equal a lower tuning or does it depend on the box?