SPL & SQ / Fabrication

So ive currently have got an Fi SSD15 in a 3 cube box, ported tuned around 31 hz. it murders the lows, and theres no port noise that i can tell despite it having only about 11 sq inches per cubic foot of box volume. the problem is, there seems to be cancellation in the 50-65hz range. it hits great below that and even gets louder over 65hz until it starts rolling off around 85hz. this is in the trunk of a 2001 BMW 525i. i have the sub fired up with the port back. im very frustrated with this lack of a crucial sub bass octave. i'm about to build a new box, in the neighborhood of 4 cubes with a port tuned around 35 hz, with at least 14 sq inches per cubic foot of interna…

hey all i just got metered at the florida spl/ db drag event in clear water and managed to hit a 133.6 on the TL with an fi x 12 and 350 watts. ooo and everyone should really experience mp3 pimps car first hand it is REDICULOUS!!!!!

I've been tryin to find a set that will owkr well together 2 way active.. I think I've come up with it. It will be run off a old sony mobile ES xm-5046 choices (madisound) mid - either SEAS ca18rnx or L18rnx(aluminum) both 7" tweet - SEAS 1" textile dome 27tffn I believe either of these would blend well and work together in a active 2 way.. What do you think?? or WOuld both mids work or would one choice be better?? Thanks, Joe. P

So im making a thread that may help people in the future on different enclosures for different applications. So what are the physical differences in an spl enclosure compared to a daily driver enclosure or sq enclosure? What separates the two into different catagories? for example does a box that is bigger and tuned high make it a spl enclosure or vise versa? Thanks in advance for your expertize.

So after taking a bed apart a few days ago i discovered the mass use of MDF used in the bed's structure. Now if i wanna build a box for my 18" btl, people always say use 1/2" MDF. How important is that 1/2" ? Why does it need to be that thick? For structural/support reasons? the MDF from the bed is 3/8" and i'm going to go buy the 1/2" just because everyone on here says to do it and i trust them, i was just curious. I have like...50 square feet of the stuff.

My dad has an E8v1 in his van in an old box that was from a component set, he needs a new box. I have leftover wood from my box so I thought I might as well use it! Using sundowns recommendations I figured .6 cubes with a 7x2 PVC aero port. My question is how much port area should it have and what frequency to tune to. He listens to rock music, should I even port it?

Way late but as promised here are a few pics, sorry it took so long and even if you don't know it all you guys on the forum have helped me in some way or another. The idea was to obviously keep a sub inside the car (like my 8's that were in there before) those of you who know BMW trunks understand why. Keeping it stealth was a main focus hence the flat black paint it really blends it into the car. Any and all comments are welcome, keep in mind I designed it to be way stiff, sound great, and astetics came in last. I estimate that it is around 1.2 net after polyfill. I set it on top of my 1.5 cu ft net box and it was fairly close. Later, b

okay, so I drive a 1995 honda prelude. I just got my nightshade 12 about two weeks ago =], I am running it with the saz 1500, I have also done my big three. I feel my nightshade isn't at the full potential but, it could just be my box. Off the top of my head I can not tell you my demension, all I can tell you is that its 2cuft at 33hz. I am planning on building another box very soon. I would like to know what input anyone has on they're 12" nightshade and there boxes and how they sound, also anyone with a prelude and where the have there sub mounted and the port faceing. Thanks, Jordan

I have 4 Sundown Sa-8 V2s that I am thinking about putting in a 4th order box and I have a few questions about how to design it. 1. Do I use the manufacturer's specs for the sealed part? 2. What is the best ported to sealed ratio for a box that I would like to have an output of 20s+ hz? 3. Would tuning the ported area to 45 hz give me the best range in frequency response? (Maybe 20s-60s or so)

Wow another successful event! A special thanks got out to all competitors it would be impossible to have these events. A extra special thanks go out to all the competitors that traveled the extra distance. Team All Your Bass, Team Shattered Dreams, and Adam Metcalf from Trenton, Ontario! Here are the event results: Stock 1-160 1. Shawn Robert.......143.7/143.5 2. Chris Sawyer.......138.8/142.4 3. Jeremy Scott.......136.8/138.1 4. Richie McEwen......136.0 Stock 161-260 1. Matt Clark.........145.0/144.4 2. Jamie Carr.........140.3/142.7/142.0 3. TSD Mike...........141.0/140.6/135.8 4. Jeff Dickinson.....136.3/138.5 5. Brandon Beckley....136.9/136.9 6. Brian VanSoyoc....…

Hey guys, I am gonna start a few projects and try and glass a few things, I want to put 2 8's on my rear deck and something upfront to put the tweets on the dash. I can't put them in the A-Pillars so I was going to put them in the corners of the dash and I want them to look clean. I was wondering what kind of resin and bonding agent? I think you mix the resin and something else before you put it on the fabric, I read about it a while ago and I will go over it again because I don't remember much. Just thought some of you guys would have some tips on how to do this... I've got some pretty good ideas to actually design it but I will touch back to see if it is plausible... …

Hey guys, I know iv posted so many topics about my box but its time for another one. I WAS going rebuild my box for my 18" BTL N2, and make it closer to 7.5 cuft net. Iv been thinking about future upgrades though, and im thinking in the end of it all ill be powering my BTL off of two AB VFL 100.1's strapped (3000wrms). Now with that much power to my subwoofer, would 7.5cuft be a little too big? Iv been talking to one or two people about it and they said it might be a better idea to keep it around 5.5-6 cuft with that much power running to it.

So I ordered a BTL 18 today, and I think I'm going to base my enclosure off the one for the XCON optimal one thats here on the site. It says that box is tuned for 30 hz. Fi recommends tuning to 32 hz for the BTL. I don't really figure that the 2 hz will make that much of a difference, but I could be wrong. What I'm planning on doing is putting the port on the other side of the box, so that the driver would be facing up towards the roof of the vehicle, and the port would be facing forwards, toward the front of the vehicle. My question is will putting the port on the wider side of the box, (25.25 in. vs 22 in.) put me closer or farther away from the 32 hz? Also, I'm plannin…

so i did a quick little search, but i am a bit slow and tired and i didn't find anything. i haven't built a box before, nor helped anyone build one.. but i've pretty much decided for my first box to tune it at 32hz, and on the Fi section of the forums they recomend "1.8-2.5 cubic feet".. what does each mean, like how do i know what i prefer. basically waht i'm asking is when the box is smaller, what does that mean? tighter bass? higher notes (roughly)? what. and then it recommends 32hz, so i'm going with that.. but how do i tune it to 32hz? i don't understand how to tune it using the box. or is it a setting on the amp/sub. if you couldn't tell i've never done this before,…

Hello all . Im in beginning stages of design for my 2002 PT Cruiser Enclosure. This will be my first year competing in the lanes for SPL. I know its correct to have a daily box and a burp box, but I would like to get as close of a mix in one box as possible. My initial thoughts would be to have subs facing up and slot port facing up as well because of the lack of room. So far I am just looking for any advice I can get. Max Dimensions: 39w x 20h x 14d. Would prefer port in between subs but If it doesnt make a difference, im flexible. Am I on the right track? Any help would be appreciated.

I have always wondered this and I'm hoping to get it answered. Is there a better way to aim subs? Most people I've seen have had their subs in the front of the trunk aiming to the back of the trunk. But people have also had the subs aim towards the back seats. And I've seen subs aimed to the sky. Is there any advantages to aiming subs to different places? What about the port. Most ports I have seen are right next to the woofer. What if the port was on the side of the box, what about the back? Top? Is this just the way people do it, or is there an advantage of having the port next to the woofer.... Any input is greatly appreciated

someone posted up a link to a SMdesigns thread that had a whole bunch of tips and help for building a good transmission line box. Whoever posted this up please let me know, as i am having trouble searching for it. Much thanks to anyone who has this link. Mike.

ive been hearing that the tantrum amp can actually get u put in higher power classes in some organizations because of the output at 4ohm..anybody know if this is true or not? and if so what organization does this.

Ive been wanting a 6thorder for a while. I wanna try to build one for one of my sundown sa-15s i dont how big to make the chambers or the tuning. I listen to all rap and songs with low bass. Idk what do do someone help me. And what types of wood can i use?

When you build a box with a swapable port, how to you determine internal box volume, as in, what it needs to be once the port is in? I'm going to build a box for the BTL that's 7.5 cubes and want three different ports, 26hz, 34hz, and one for whatever my peak frequency in the vehicle with be. I'm not sure, but wouldn't the different port sizes also affect tuning by changing box volume? I feel like this is really simple and i'm just punching myself in the face here. What am I missing?

i was thinking something like this non walled with a 2:1 ratio at 50hz? or do u think my setup like this would be louder?

im makeing this post for ppl trying to use fiberglass on there install's. this will help you understand how and what to use to make the job easyer. i will have more later and hopefully have a step by step so you can see it at work.... so here we go... the material's you might see is fiberglass this came's in many form's such as chop mat, cloth, fleece, speaker grill cloth and speaker carpet. next is the resin again came's in many form's, polyester and epoxy. these are the most used in the car audio world. other thing's you'll see is PVA, mold wax, MDF, bondo ect ect.... (and a few time's steel mesh, but i never used it.) ok now im goin to talk about resin. the resin we mo…

my friend wants me to build him a box for his 2 12" lanzar vibe dual 4's and i cant find any specs on these subs let alone what cubes/tuning freq. to build for, its going to be ported for SQ-L if anyone can help me out. thanks and aparently if i try to just type SQ-L without the dash, i get LSQ?

so my friend tried to paint the box he made for his girlfriends jeep black, but where the screws are its all messed up, and the paint is dark and light in some places and fades alot and doesnt look that appealing all together, i figure i could just use woodfiller for the spots for the screws and sand it down flat, but what about getting all the paint even and pretty? need to make one for a guy i know and he wants it painted so anything will help, thanks

There are 2 drivers in each side wall that would acoustically, i assume, act as port length. So, if that's true, does leaving just the opening in the back act as length of the side walls which is ~25" long? also, i've never had the time to question these types of designs but does anyone have anything negative to say about drivers in the side wall like that? I've seen pretty much all different kinds of setups throughout the years and this particular one is not new either. I just don't understand what actually is going on when the front wave of these side wall drivers interacts with the port(2nd question).