SPL & SQ / Fabrication

someone posted up a link to a SMdesigns thread that had a whole bunch of tips and help for building a good transmission line box. Whoever posted this up please let me know, as i am having trouble searching for it. Much thanks to anyone who has this link. Mike.

I was wondering if I could use metal L brackets in the inside or outside the sub box the reduce the vibration or flex? I saw the wood ones, but those take space inside the box and my box is quite small and I don't wanted any more smaller.

Hey guys, I am gonna start a few projects and try and glass a few things, I want to put 2 8's on my rear deck and something upfront to put the tweets on the dash. I can't put them in the A-Pillars so I was going to put them in the corners of the dash and I want them to look clean. I was wondering what kind of resin and bonding agent? I think you mix the resin and something else before you put it on the fabric, I read about it a while ago and I will go over it again because I don't remember much. Just thought some of you guys would have some tips on how to do this... I've got some pretty good ideas to actually design it but I will touch back to see if it is plausible... …

well i had the having the box where the backseats are located at, since i barley got the car and not ready for a wall i had this thoughed in my idea has it been done before? how does it sound? any mechincal noise coming from the woofer you think? idk if i worded it correctly. its ethier my recone them to 18's or recone them to 15's i currently have 2 10's dc audio xl woofers any input you guys? no idea if its done before to be honest, is my idea a complete fail or another way to feed my goal of getting louder any input will be helpful

hey guys i have a 2006 toyota tundra access cab. currently my sub is in a 2.5cuft box tuned around 32hz. its much too small. it is being powered by a percision power black ice bk1300.1d. and i have been fiddling around on sketch up trying to make a box to fit nice and tight up against my seat in the back passenger side. the box will be roughly 4 cuft with 2 4" pvc ports. will this be enough port area for my sub? the box i have it in now has much too small of a port. i am planning to tune to around 30hz this time. sub will be roughly in the center of the two front seats firing foward, with the ports facing the drivers side. there will be one seat still usable in the rear b…

Sorry for another question (just taking advantage of my day off). I just finished up damping my door panels, the sheet metal, framing, and plastic panels,as well as the rear hatch with eDead 120 and Damplifier Pro. Probably have used about >80 ft^3 so far. I am doing my entire roof and going to do the floor soon too but I am having trouble deciding what to do next. I keep reading very different theories about what to do, whether to use closed cell foams or open cell foams and where to use them. Some of you have recommended websites to buy different products but just need to know how much and what to buy. I have a lot of room in my doors between the interior plast…

I just got a 12" Mag from Low-Hz, and currently have it in my old sealed box that housed a JL 12w6(v1). That box has about 0.8 cubic ft. after driver displacement. Anyway, I was planning on building a ported box and got this off the net: http://www.subwoofertools.com/forum/ported...=&Vas=&Fs=&CE=0 I was all set on building it, but decided to read more, and the more I read, the more I get confused and hesitant. So I decided to ask the official SI site for input. I want the best ported box with a maximum width of 30" and max height of 13". It's going into a 95 Ford Mustang, and I would like the box to fit perfectly into the hole when you fold down the seats. …

I am trying to find out how many cubic feet i would need for 6 SA-15s in a ported wall It will be ran by 2 2600w soundstream amps and I willl be playing rap and bass tracks.

http://texasbasswars.freeforums.org/the-big-ugly-t234.html

my friend wants me to build him a box for his 2 12" lanzar vibe dual 4's and i cant find any specs on these subs let alone what cubes/tuning freq. to build for, its going to be ported for SQ-L if anyone can help me out. thanks and aparently if i try to just type SQ-L without the dash, i get LSQ?

Was wondering if anyone on here could offer me a reaonable design for a btl 18 for free. I have a guy at the car audio forums that has always done mine for a small fee (they are reasonable). BTL 18 Tuned to ~30 hz. ~ 5-6 feet ^3 48 inches wide... and max of 24 inches high.

my friend is getting a 10" type R (powering it with a kicker 400.1). he's trying to keep the box as small as he can so i was thinking about using a flare tube port for the box. what diameter should we be looking at? any suggestion? (sub isnt purchased yet. but i havent seen anything better for 100 bucks shipped) edit: damn i think i put this is wrong section... please move if it is

Can I mount the subwoofer in the port, like this? And... Would a 12"Height 1"Wide 6"Deep port be the same as a 6"Height 2"Wide 6"Deep port? Would it sound any different?

I have pretty much been out of the game since 2009 because I was happy with my last build and left it alone for about 5 years. I recently bought a 94 F-150 ext cab to DD and I need my tunes back. This truck is going to give me some headaches but I'm slowly getting there. I'm looking to put a 10" SSD in a center console box, sub down with a forward firing aero port to try and get everything to fit and not look too silly. I made some templates today and figure I have 18" height, 24" length and 12" width overall to work with. That includes lifting the box 2-3in off the floor for sub clearance. I've never used an aero before but have been doing some research and I think I des…

Been bumping my 15" SSD for a while now and I'm still loving every second of it except for one thing. The rattle. Its not the trunk rattling its my back deck speakers, and the reason their rattling so bad is because the sub is firing up towards them. My dad had to buy a special bolt and locking nut to keep the screws from backing out because every time i listened to it the screws holding the back deck speakers in backed out about 2 inches. Its really annoying, you either have to listen music with the bass so low it doesn't rattle them or so loud you can't hear the rattle. *And I'm not taking the back deck speakers out they help fill the cabin with highs So here is my plan…

i talked to my cousin earlier and he was explaining different box designs to me, he said that he had a box that was a cross between a t-line and a horn design box, he sent me an attatchment w/ pictures of the different types but i cant find formulas anywhere, i used the search but none of the links for formulas worked so i was hopign someone could help me out... thanks

I am currently waiting on my 1st xcon and want to run 2 eventually but don't know if I can. I can slide a 31W x 12 3/4H x 29D through the rear seat opening. That is about the max size i can do through the seat opening i could go an extra half inch in the sides and maybe an inch on height but would be tight squeeze. Also i want ported if possible. Thanks for any help.

snoopdan uses pink panther insulation to seal around his box so it acts like a wall in his cherokee. I just got done building my box in my scion tc with 4 15s and i need to seal around it so it can act like a wall. I was gonna use pink panther but have 2nd thoughts because it states that it's purely a thermal barrier, not acoustic barrier. Is there any methods u guys use or can persuade me with facts as to continue to go with pink panther insulation or is there a better method?

I've been playing with a port calculator and I find that 30 1/8"x3/4"(which just happens to be my wall thickness) holes will tune the box to a nice 30.5Hz. Now, is there any reason for NOT doing this??? Thought I might arrange them in the shape of an SSA logo for effect.

Sooo...got a bit of a rude awakening today. Found out my e12a is actually presenting close to a 10 ohm load to the PG Tantrum 1200.1 in box - impedance rise is killing me. The sub is a 2 ohm DVC currently wired in series, and it's close to 2.5 times what I was thinking the impedance was. Pardon the extreme n00bish question, but is such a drastic rise common? It just feels a little strange running my sub at a lower impedance than my amp is rated for (if I drop it to 1 ohm), but if it models out well, hey...that's what I'll do.

I've been tryin to find a set that will owkr well together 2 way active.. I think I've come up with it. It will be run off a old sony mobile ES xm-5046 choices (madisound) mid - either SEAS ca18rnx or L18rnx(aluminum) both 7" tweet - SEAS 1" textile dome 27tffn I believe either of these would blend well and work together in a active 2 way.. What do you think?? or WOuld both mids work or would one choice be better?? Thanks, Joe. P

plan on making a box for a box for a DC level 4 18" what do you think?

is there anyone in the Dallas area that could help me build a box?

how do you find out about competitions.? i've never heard of anything in my area like this. i live in cincinnati. which is a big place. but i guess car shows and sound comps are limited. or... i just don't know where to look

I've got two of these but temporarily I want to see what one can do, I'll be running it off of 900wrms. Anyone want to design me a nice efficient box, tuned anywhere from 27-32 hz? Sub will have to be facing forward, aero ports preferred, 6" PVC pipe is what I'd like to use. Max dimensions (to keep it under window line) would be 54" length x 22" height x 15" depth.