SPL & SQ / Fabrication

In the process of designing a box for the 15 Loaded BTL. Can I design an "L" slot port box to have a tuning freq of approx 40hz for comps...and then just put 1.5" thich MDF along one side of the port? Since calc's tell me that will bring me down to 32hz. So the port will be approx 6.5 inches wide for a 40hz tune and 5 inches wide for a 32hz. I'm just wondering because only the last 14inches or so will be 5 inches...the other 14ish inches (inside the box) will still be 6.5 inches. Will this screw with tuning...and will this raise or lower my ACTUAL tuning freq?

I have a friend that wants a box built for a 8" sub. I have some 1/2" MDF that I could make it out of. The box will be sealed and not have a lot of flat surface (maybe even some glassing involved to make it fit). Would this be a good idea? I'm not sure about the thickness of the MDF. The sub will only be seeing about 200rms or so.

Does anyone know any online dealers that build fiberglass boxes anymore for a decent price? I emailed Fisher Audio but they no longer make FG ones. I would do it locally but they charge an arm and a leg for them.

hey all i just got metered at the florida spl/ db drag event in clear water and managed to hit a 133.6 on the TL with an fi x 12 and 350 watts. ooo and everyone should really experience mp3 pimps car first hand it is REDICULOUS!!!!!

i talked to my cousin earlier and he was explaining different box designs to me, he said that he had a box that was a cross between a t-line and a horn design box, he sent me an attatchment w/ pictures of the different types but i cant find formulas anywhere, i used the search but none of the links for formulas worked so i was hopign someone could help me out... thanks

Hello, im building a box for a loaded 12 btl. i have an odd shaped box i made to fit under my silverado back seat. my question is how should i run my port/s. the box is wedge shaped with 3.6 cubes gross. the box dimentions are 11.25 high in front 8.5h in back 53.5 long and 16 deep. any idea on port location? trying to get 14 sq/in of port per cube seems hard. thanks steve height1 11.25" height 2 8.5" length 53.5" depth 16" the sub will be facing up on the drivers side

After doing the math i come up with a .825 cubic foot enclosure which doesn't seem to leave me with room for ports. Can someone help me out here please? What should my internal volume be? I used the box calculator at the12volt.com, is there a different calculator I should be using? Thank You to anyone who can help me.

ok XTRemeasures, I think i'll deff be down next weekend for this event you where talking about, could you post up the details for me, and i'll call ya when I get there. thanks in advnace. Also, who else is gonna be in attendence?

I am currently taking advantage of the Audibel Customs free enclosure special and getting myself an SSA Icon 12". I am going to be going with a ported enclosure, and Quentin is currently working on my design. the first design he had was with the sub on an angle, firing towards the hatch, and port firing out the top. I had envisioned a upward firing sub and port, and a raised sub floor in the back to make it all flush. Now I realize that the box is just going to be so big regardless that the sub floor idea went out the window. I am only concerned with it hitting hard, going deep, and being able to keep up with my tastes in music. I drive a '05 Scion Xa, 160 amp alt, 0g …

so ive been looking around for ideas how to get mach5 mli 6.5s and tweets in my doors, but the mounting depth is kicking my a$$. the magnet will hit the window when its rolled down if i put it in the stock location. im wanting to do minimal modification to my doors to keep it as stock as possible*. i saw this and figured it would be perfect for me, if it wont hurt the speaker at all. i cant think of any reason it would, but im just making sure. should i seal behind it with something, or just use some deadening on the door itself? any input would be nice, thanks! hope this works, and if it does work i hope it comes out cleaner than that one

Hello all! I am looking to reconfigure my trunk set-up in my Mazda 3 and am looking for some feedback on my idea to see if this would give me my desired result. Currently, I have the subwoofer firing straight to the back of the car, with the port opened up to the rear deck ( I use a flared round port). The problem is that the rear deck is completely solid and this causes quite a bit of rattling, even after deadening the whole trunk. What I am considering doing is rebuilding the box to have the sub firing straight to the back of the car, with the port opened up on the back of the box. In order to do this, I would need to put an elbow on the PVC port because the box will…

What has been your favorite show you have attended, not necessarily competed in? I would say the best show (besides SBN) would be the first show at Ft. Drum, NY back in July of '00. It was a smaller IASCA show hosted by Terry Floyd. There were maybe 25 or so SPL cars and about 10 or so SQ cars. I met a lot of people at that show that wound up being good friends. Highlights from the show. I had the high SPL for the day at 151.0 I caught my car on fire! 2 of my other buddy;s got 1st in their respected SQ classes Here is a buddy's truck that won one of the pro classes. He went on to IASCA Finals that year. Real sweet truck.

Does port/woofer aiming really matter that much in an SUV? I'm looking at placing the box in the passenger rear corner with the woofer firing cross cabin and port forward.

I've got two of these but temporarily I want to see what one can do, I'll be running it off of 900wrms. Anyone want to design me a nice efficient box, tuned anywhere from 27-32 hz? Sub will have to be facing forward, aero ports preferred, 6" PVC pipe is what I'd like to use. Max dimensions (to keep it under window line) would be 54" length x 22" height x 15" depth.

Hi guys, I will be building the pre cut enclosures I calculated under RE enclosure calculator but there are a few things I would like to verify. I would like to tune the box between 33-35Hz @ 1.8-2.0 cubic ft. However, I just read that the RE calculator is not accurate. So I searched and found this website Enclosure Volume Calculator (EVC) and made the following calculations: Box Width 23 Inches Box Height 15 Inches Box Depth 15 Inches Material Thickness 0.75 Inches Number of Drivers 1 Total Total Port Volume 258.188 Inches3 -----> see calculations below: Port Width 13.5 Inches Port Height 1.5 Inches Port Depth 12.5 Inches Driver Volume …

Sorry for another question (just taking advantage of my day off). I just finished up damping my door panels, the sheet metal, framing, and plastic panels,as well as the rear hatch with eDead 120 and Damplifier Pro. Probably have used about >80 ft^3 so far. I am doing my entire roof and going to do the floor soon too but I am having trouble deciding what to do next. I keep reading very different theories about what to do, whether to use closed cell foams or open cell foams and where to use them. Some of you have recommended websites to buy different products but just need to know how much and what to buy. I have a lot of room in my doors between the interior plast…

Do I have a 12 Xcon and I was wondering the best sub an port placement.

My car audio team is holding a Car Audio competition in the town of Lodi. Here is the link http://www.team-bio.com/2nd_Annual_USACi_Sound_Off.htm This would be a nice little meet, for some people who want to come out and have a good ole' time. There will be a ton of cars, a ton of extremely nice cars, and its just alot of fun. Last year we held this event, we have around 50 cars. If you need any additional information let me, know Falout2guy __________________

I was cleaning out my room, and found some literature that came with my DLS components. I didn't notice this bit of info when I was doing the install. But DLS recommends a chamfered baffle for the midbass. I simply made 1/2" birch rings with no chamfer. My question is, will I notice a big difference in midbass response by going the chamfered route? The rings are fairly thin being only 1/2", I don't think the backwaves are really hitting it. But I want to get some second opinions before I take my doors apart to redo the rings. http://www.dls.se/files/701/2/baffle_installation.pdf Pics of my baffles: passenger side driver side

how does it measure the frequncy of the port if it does not know the displacement of the sub?

I have talked with rob and rusty from dc on everything to do with my upcoming design for summer 2012. I am going to go with 2 xl 12s on two SAZ-3500Ds, backed up with juicebox batteries and a 220amp excessive amperage alt. The box will be a little smaller than recommended seeing as DCs love smaller boxes when they are overpowered. Now my question for everybody that I cant seem to get a hold of is port area, would I be better off giving it a little more (Kerf port btw) space (say 18-20sqin per cuft) or the "normal" range of 15-18sqiin per cuft? My goal is to get decent numbers in the low 30s. I do not have the depth either for aeroports. A 5" aero though would be 21 sqin p…

ok, i'm gonna risk one hell of a flamming here and ask you guys. i was nomeened R-tard of the month on CA.com for saying this so chances are it's gonna happen here too, but what the hell K my question is can you guys hear the difference between a 4 ohm and 1 ohm load? now im not talking about sitting in someone else's car and knowing it, but if you have a 2x2 sub and wiring it to 1 and 4 ohm load. i have tried it with a two different amps(a 2 channel in 2 ohm bridge) and my current RF bd 1000.1. although on a 1 ohm load and lower it ponds like a bastard it just sounds too off, sort of muddy... this all applies if the amp is stable on those loads of course just curious...

Went out to a Texas Bass Productions event today with the Sebring wit 1 12" Soundstream SPLX Quad 1 ohm.. All 3 runs it did a 151.3 Got 1st place in my class(no one was close to me). Brian(Lord Baccus) did a 151.2 with a set of bad RCA's with a Pierce Audio Products 1 off(specially made for him) 15" MOAB subwoofer, ...sorry bout that Brian..we'll et em' next time! Every ones asking about the Sundown Audio amps that me and Brian are kicking butt with....most people haven't heard of them...they are getting a ton of attention... Hoping to get higher on this single 12"...

I was wondering if I could use metal L brackets in the inside or outside the sub box the reduce the vibration or flex? I saw the wood ones, but those take space inside the box and my box is quite small and I don't wanted any more smaller.

Stupidly I bought an 18 Fi BL and didn't realize I couldn't fit the recommended box inside my trunk...its anywhere between 4-4.5 cubic ft..Is there anyway I can build a new box similar in size that will increase the current SPL levels and help not suffocate the sub-woofer so much?