SPL & SQ / Fabrication

HI everyone. I come with another question. I know there are probably many variables but I was wondering if there is a general guideline as to when bracing is required for a sub box. Lets say for instance my sub is a 12 that requires a sealed 1 ft.cu. box with 1 inch mdf. It will be fed 1500 watts rms. Would I need to brace this box? does it make a difference if the box is sealed or ported? Thanks!

Anyone know where I can look at pics of pods? I'm having some started today for my jeep. I'm not building them myself. Is there anything I need to be aware of or tell the person making them? I don't know jack about them. I'm installing my Kicker RS6.5 component set in there. I'll probably mount the tweeter in the co-ax. Any comments, opinions? Me competiting in db drag street class means I can't have anything large or alot of glass on my door.

So I keep getting told that an active front stage can be and usually is better than a passive component setup. Now, doing the front stage is very new to me. I've really only done a co-axial set powered by a 2 channel amp. I'm going to need some help with speaker selection and ways/tricks to make sure everything is installed/tuned correctly. To put a number on a budget, I would say $400. That number is just what I have set aside for the front stage currently. Sound deadening is not included with that budget. This is going into a 2014 Fusion. I don't want to cut any holes in panels and I can't fiberglass so stock locations will be used. Which is a 6.5 and tweeter. I will b…

if anyone knows were or who makes 8 inch aero ports please text me 606-875-9811 thanks

Ok, let's say you need a larger enclosure for SPL competition and you have ran out of port options... You need a larger enclosure... would polyfill help or would it actually drop pressure potential... My ports are starting to tune past my peak and i can't enlarge my port area too much more... Was wondering if i start dropping polyfill in the enclosure if it will not only start to lower the tuning back some but keep me gaining as well... Is it worth a try?

To burp a sub would I just go wth a bigger amp and turn the gain up and give it a burst for 5 seconds or so?

Why is it that some companies suggest a larger box for Fart boxes then others recommend smaller boxes for Fart boxes? What's the difference? Why would a large box work for one sub and not another and vice versa?

Does anyone have any recommendations for a good table saw to be able to cut whole sheets of wood? Would want to stay under 1500. Will be for an audio shop

Hello and welcome to my version of the “How to Build a Custom Subwoofer box Tutorial”. This tutorial aims to teach you not only how to create a subwoofer box but how to add additional styling and design to make it a one of kind masterpiece. This is a four part tutorial series; a brief description of each part is given below and accompanied with a video and pictures. Enjoy! Part 1: How to Build the Box In this first video I cover the basics of a box design, incorporating bracing and 45’s and construction techniques. Part 2: Customizing the Box This video covers the design and production of custom template created insert shapes that mount to the fro…

Sprint so I have a 06 tundra access cab with a fi x12 in I believe 2 cuft ported box tuned to around 32-34 maybe. But why do I notice such a big increase in "volume" of the sub when I put the windows down or open a door? This is probably a noob question but I'm just curious. Thanks. Btw it's running on a 400rms powerbass amp. It's where the back left seat would be. Standing up with the sub facing drivers seat and port facing the passengers side. Thanks

ok so word around town in the local audio house in town is lookin to build a car to "out do me" they found a sucker that wants to be me! sooo they have a plan to do 8 mojos.. 2 cheap 12s and a buncha other crap from 15 grand... so work got to me.. and i drove around tell i found this fool... ohh you should have seen his face... anyway... i talked about walling onew of my cars before... now im doing it. i wanna do a simple wall.. nothing crazy.. i wanna do 4 15's or 4 18's.... im thinking 15;'s but first tthing is first... what car should i do it in is the poll working?

Vehicle : 2010 Toyota Tundra DC Location in the vehicle: back passenger side Box size: W:22, H:19, D:17, using 3/4" = 3.0 cubes Subwoofer make and model: SSA ZCON 12 D2 Subwoofer Size: 12" Number of Subwoofers: 1 Type of Port: Aero Preferably (have a flared 3" aero already in my possession) What type of music do you like?: DNB Everyday listening Tuning Freq (Hz): 31hz Volume : 3.0 ------------------------------- So my question, is the 3" aeroport going to be large enough diameter for this sub? I've read where people have used ports that were too small for the sub utilized, and didn't want to run into the same issue. Any further suggestions or ideas for box and/or port(s…

Want to build a series-tunes 6th order for a Single Fi Car Audio SSD 18. Not sure where to start I know 6th orders are more complex to design and more of a trial and error build but if I never try it out I will never learn. So of course the goal is to successfully build a 6th order but depending on the final results if it does not meet expectations there will be adjustments. Also if none of the revisions succeed I will fall back on a standard Ported Enclosure . Please if you have any useful information on 6th order designing/building It would be awesome if you can share them with me . Thanks in advance max dimension - height 30” - depth 21” - width 38…

Okay new to the site. Just ordered two ICON 12's and they should be here in 3 weeks. I'm working on a ported box and needed some input if someone is willing to help. I've gone on torresbox calculator and I came up with some dimensions and would like to know what everyone thinks. Or if anyone has any suggestions. I want SQ but not where it would sacrifice SPL. It's going in an 08' Escalade. I'm pushing with a SoundQubed 2200. I have two sets of Hertz HSK 165's for up front on a PPI 900.4. I have two new Duracell Marine batteries and just did the Big 3 upgrade. Just really want to know what everyone thinks on my dimensions and how I should face the subs and port. …

Has anyone ever put an center channel in a late 90s model Chevy / GMC ??? Truck or SUV (same dash literally where the defroster vents are concerned) ... I know there will be ALOT of work to go into this ... most likely will never happen, but, you never know... I'm not really concerned about it helping or hurting my stage and image at this time ... I'm just interested to see if it has been done ... I'm considering either a 5.25 or 6.5 driver (full range) ... Thanks in advance ...

i'm redoing them. the tweet is gonna be in them this time and i'm molding them to the actual kick panel from the car.... one question though...should i seal of the backside of the tweeter hole? or just leave it like that?

I seen on a build log this guy put 8" subs in his doors for mid bass. He didnt use a box or anything but a adapter so the sub can be mounted. - i am thinking about doing this to my s15 but i imagined that the sub will need the right enclosure to play good. So it leaves me with the question.. will an 8inch sub play good in a door without anything but an adapter for the sub to be mounted. I cannot ask him how it sounded because i dont remeber where the log was. -thanks Dom.

well, looks like rattlebox317 will be running a wmd2 12" this spring. tuned @ 32 hz. little over 42"sq.in. of port area. 4.5 cubes gross, with a internal volume of 2.53 cubes net. double baffle, .75 mdf . will be rear firing in a 2000 olds alero trunk. dd setup, rap / hip hop. still playing with a couple of amp options. will zero in on that real soon.

I think I got my first box design down, hope to have you guys double check it all for me....... tunning will be at 35 hz. port area is 62 sqaure inches box volume is 4.29 ( havn't figured out what the 45's and braceing will displace) I just used 4 cubes for all my math. useing 3/4" mdf and will use double baffle. port opening will measure 15.5" W X 4" H , useing the bottom of the enclosure as the bottom of the port, ported to the side. port length will be 27.5" long the port will fire toward a vertical mdf wall on the drivers side. sub will fire up, and i will plan on having it inverted, for now. it will work out that the sub will be almost centered in the vehicle. kee…

I'm helping a friend build a box. I've done a few boxes in the past, but this one is different. This one isn't a rectangular box. He wants to, or needs to, use all of his trunk space to squeeze in 2 15" Kicker L7s. The box I designed is 6.11 cubic feet after displacement tuned to 33 hz with ~78 square inches of port. It will be braced and double baffled with 3/4" MDF. My only worry is the port being cut off by the roof of the trunk, but it's got a couple inches to breathe, so it should be fine, right? Criticism is welcome! Thanks!

this is 1 of the coolest setups iv seen in a while 6 ID MAX 12" w/ over 8k from the TruTech amps

Would it be possible to make a box out of the clear material and have it sound just as good as MDF if not better? I think Id like to go that route, why I dont know but a clear box would look cool to me.

alright, so i've been debating something here and i wanted to get your opinions on it. some of you may know that i have a Hummer H2 that i've been slowly putting together for an "SQ" style build. now i have been thinking about doing 6.5's components active in the front doors with the tweeters being in the factory A pillars pointing straight at each other, 5.25 components active in some kicks with with the tweeters also housed down there, 6.5's with the passive x-overs in the rear doors and some 4in midbass/mid range in the factory rear pillars and the fatory 8in. sub replaced with a Pro Audio 8in and i wanted to know how that sounded to you guys and your input on this set…

So, i am going to need to coat the entire inside of my upcoming project in resin.. I have a few questions... 1- Any type of resin and hardener i should use specifically for this or any at Lowes for fiberglassing fine? 2- How many coats or how thick should i make it? 16 cubes GROSS 7kw of power with All-thread bracing. 3- Is it ok if i coat the entire inside with resin, then after it cures, drill out all the holes i need to run my allthread? OR should i already run all-thread and have it braced before coating with resin?

Rebuilding for my home music room, plans for the box are 7.5@26hz with 120sq in of port, 3/4" mdf, double/triple baffle (haven't decided) 1.5 all around, sub forward port forward, on spikes. Woofer is a FI BTL 18. I like Decaf and DJSNT, chopped and screwed, etc. Anything you'd advise me to change before I go and pick up wood? On 500rms for now, intend to pick up an EP2000 down the road.