SPL & SQ / Fabrication

OK, So I recently aquired a 1996 jeep grand cherokee and am in the planning phase of the project. I am looking at running a 3:1 ratio 4th order with either 4 15" or 18" drivers. The issue I am running into is that I am concerned that the box height will end up too low to mount the drivers on a flat baffle. With this being said I was wondering if anyone has toyed around with angled baffles. With this setup I was going to do a driver's side port and tune around 45-50hz. Would this be too much of a hassle and prove to be a nightmare, or should I try to use a more upward firing baffle to fit the 4 drivers (similar to watt's truck but larger and drivers stacked in a 2x2 …

Hello. I've got a BTL 12, the new model, with the spl gap, short coil and cooling and I'm looking for some ideas on a box volume I can use for burps and keep it mechanically safe. I had an old 1.3cf box laying around so I used that for some quick testing. The highest score with all testing was only 147dB on 3600w clamped watts. The actual power to the woofer will be a bit over 4000w once I get good battery. The goal is to score 150dB out of this single 12 and the small box is 3dB short. This is how the 1.3cf box looked at the end of the testing: I also tried all combinations of sub / port facing except both of them back. A max volume suggestion would be useful as I …

ok so word around town in the local audio house in town is lookin to build a car to "out do me" they found a sucker that wants to be me! sooo they have a plan to do 8 mojos.. 2 cheap 12s and a buncha other crap from 15 grand... so work got to me.. and i drove around tell i found this fool... ohh you should have seen his face... anyway... i talked about walling onew of my cars before... now im doing it. i wanna do a simple wall.. nothing crazy.. i wanna do 4 15's or 4 18's.... im thinking 15;'s but first tthing is first... what car should i do it in is the poll working?

So I keep getting told that an active front stage can be and usually is better than a passive component setup. Now, doing the front stage is very new to me. I've really only done a co-axial set powered by a 2 channel amp. I'm going to need some help with speaker selection and ways/tricks to make sure everything is installed/tuned correctly. To put a number on a budget, I would say $400. That number is just what I have set aside for the front stage currently. Sound deadening is not included with that budget. This is going into a 2014 Fusion. I don't want to cut any holes in panels and I can't fiberglass so stock locations will be used. Which is a 6.5 and tweeter. I will b…

alright, so i've been debating something here and i wanted to get your opinions on it. some of you may know that i have a Hummer H2 that i've been slowly putting together for an "SQ" style build. now i have been thinking about doing 6.5's components active in the front doors with the tweeters being in the factory A pillars pointing straight at each other, 5.25 components active in some kicks with with the tweeters also housed down there, 6.5's with the passive x-overs in the rear doors and some 4in midbass/mid range in the factory rear pillars and the fatory 8in. sub replaced with a Pro Audio 8in and i wanted to know how that sounded to you guys and your input on this set…

Vehicle : 2010 Toyota Tundra DC Location in the vehicle: back passenger side Box size: W:22, H:19, D:17, using 3/4" = 3.0 cubes Subwoofer make and model: SSA ZCON 12 D2 Subwoofer Size: 12" Number of Subwoofers: 1 Type of Port: Aero Preferably (have a flared 3" aero already in my possession) What type of music do you like?: DNB Everyday listening Tuning Freq (Hz): 31hz Volume : 3.0 ------------------------------- So my question, is the 3" aeroport going to be large enough diameter for this sub? I've read where people have used ports that were too small for the sub utilized, and didn't want to run into the same issue. Any further suggestions or ideas for box and/or port(s…

Has anyone ever put an center channel in a late 90s model Chevy / GMC ??? Truck or SUV (same dash literally where the defroster vents are concerned) ... I know there will be ALOT of work to go into this ... most likely will never happen, but, you never know... I'm not really concerned about it helping or hurting my stage and image at this time ... I'm just interested to see if it has been done ... I'm considering either a 5.25 or 6.5 driver (full range) ... Thanks in advance ...

So, i am going to need to coat the entire inside of my upcoming project in resin.. I have a few questions... 1- Any type of resin and hardener i should use specifically for this or any at Lowes for fiberglassing fine? 2- How many coats or how thick should i make it? 16 cubes GROSS 7kw of power with All-thread bracing. 3- Is it ok if i coat the entire inside with resin, then after it cures, drill out all the holes i need to run my allthread? OR should i already run all-thread and have it braced before coating with resin?

well, looks like rattlebox317 will be running a wmd2 12" this spring. tuned @ 32 hz. little over 42"sq.in. of port area. 4.5 cubes gross, with a internal volume of 2.53 cubes net. double baffle, .75 mdf . will be rear firing in a 2000 olds alero trunk. dd setup, rap / hip hop. still playing with a couple of amp options. will zero in on that real soon.

For the Crown Vic.Town Car 4.6 Now the Exp.Navi 5.4 Im a bit confused on what they did exactly. maybe someone can explain it better. says its from an 08 navi, but alot the bolts should be the same.

Okay, it's about time to put my Sundown SAZ 3000D to good use, I've finally settled on subs, they are Crossfire XP 15's that I will get for super cheap and they are high quality subwoofers: http://crossfirecaraudio.com/htdoc/cf_m01_product_05_xs.asp#. I have some dimensions worked out, I used the SSA Box Calculator and I believe it's all worked out, I just need help bringing the calculator measurements to life! http://www.soundsolutionsaudio.com/home/in...int=1&page= Can someone give me a hand on how to put that on paper so I can build it?

I THINK ITS A REAL SHAME THAT TEXAS BASS PRODUCTION GIVES ITS PLAYERS A FALSE SENSE OF SECURITY MAKING THEM THINK THEY ARE BETTER THAN THEY REALLY ARE BECAUSE IF THEY WERE TO GO TO A USACI OR IASCA EVENT THEY WOULD HAVE THEIR ASS HANDED TO THEM BY THE HEAVY HITTERS AND LORD BACCUS IF YOU WANT A RING GO TO SOUTH PADRE AND EARN ONE... CHEF

I was designing a SPL box for 2 10's but i was seeing in other box's a triangle down in the port here is a image of my design. is this correcto or do not is very efective in spl designs? is for 2 10" it have 2.33ft3 with the woofer, port & 45's displacement, the triangle is not contemplated in the displacement. i hope you can help me

I want you guys to post things here such as materials and bracing methods used to create the stiffest, non-flex box out there and how it's done. I'm tryin to find some materials so when i go to tear down my wall that i have something to fall back on. I've came across this but the comments are up in the air... Some competitors say it's good... others who haven't used it say it won't hold up... Durock... I had visioned on using 5 layers of 5\16" thick in between 2 layers of 0.75" MDF = approximately 3" thick total material. Then cross brace it with - 0.75" all-thread. Now, i'm looking for the stiffest out there... I had read to pour resin in, on and around each Durock lay…

To burp a sub would I just go wth a bigger amp and turn the gain up and give it a burst for 5 seconds or so?

I currently use DIY interconnects in the form of a twisted pair with drain wire terminated with soldered RCA ends. This has worked very well for my current setup and has been fairly cheap. Although, the twisted pair is more likely used for a balanced signal then an unbalanced signal (all my runs are unbalanced). I have been researching various interconnect methods and their craziness. I have noted form numerous sources that coaxial interconnects are better suited for unbalanced signals. From what I gathered, using coaxial cable in the vehicle environment can be expensive and difficult. The difficulties arise with inflexible cabling and long RCA ends. I can image the troub…

never designed a ported box before so feel free to give any critisism/help for an xcon 10" net box volume 1.37 cubes port length 31.05" diameter: 1.75" if anyone is so inclined feel free to double check calculations and such as ive never done this before and might have done something wrong all info should be in pics bellow

HI everyone. I come with another question. I know there are probably many variables but I was wondering if there is a general guideline as to when bracing is required for a sub box. Lets say for instance my sub is a 12 that requires a sealed 1 ft.cu. box with 1 inch mdf. It will be fed 1500 watts rms. Would I need to brace this box? does it make a difference if the box is sealed or ported? Thanks!

this is 1 of the coolest setups iv seen in a while 6 ID MAX 12" w/ over 8k from the TruTech amps

Rebuilding for my home music room, plans for the box are 7.5@26hz with 120sq in of port, 3/4" mdf, double/triple baffle (haven't decided) 1.5 all around, sub forward port forward, on spikes. Woofer is a FI BTL 18. I like Decaf and DJSNT, chopped and screwed, etc. Anything you'd advise me to change before I go and pick up wood? On 500rms for now, intend to pick up an EP2000 down the road.

im looking to buy a single 15" sub. im upgrading from 2 12" sony xplod sub so im sure whatever i pick is going to be a helluva upgrade but i still want to get the best bang for my buck and SQ. I looking at the Icon X and Fi Q and i wanted to know which would be louder and have better SQ. Also what box should i use sealed or ported Vehicle: 2008 Trailblazer LT with bose all the way around with a pioneer 3200 DVD indash headunit. THanks for all your feedback

Okay new to the site. Just ordered two ICON 12's and they should be here in 3 weeks. I'm working on a ported box and needed some input if someone is willing to help. I've gone on torresbox calculator and I came up with some dimensions and would like to know what everyone thinks. Or if anyone has any suggestions. I want SQ but not where it would sacrifice SPL. It's going in an 08' Escalade. I'm pushing with a SoundQubed 2200. I have two sets of Hertz HSK 165's for up front on a PPI 900.4. I have two new Duracell Marine batteries and just did the Big 3 upgrade. Just really want to know what everyone thinks on my dimensions and how I should face the subs and port. …

Would it be possible to make a box out of the clear material and have it sound just as good as MDF if not better? I think Id like to go that route, why I dont know but a clear box would look cool to me.

Sprint so I have a 06 tundra access cab with a fi x12 in I believe 2 cuft ported box tuned to around 32-34 maybe. But why do I notice such a big increase in "volume" of the sub when I put the windows down or open a door? This is probably a noob question but I'm just curious. Thanks. Btw it's running on a 400rms powerbass amp. It's where the back left seat would be. Standing up with the sub facing drivers seat and port facing the passengers side. Thanks

as u can tell, no where to put subs under the seat. behind the seat, there is very very little space. The back seat is a 60/40 bench seat. that means one side is a seat and the middle seat, while the other seat is just 1 seat. lastly u can see that the console is not very wide, its not even 10" wide so cant even do a 10" sub there unless someone has an idea. only way i see console box working is if i downfire it, but it would be a tall box, as the sub cant mount between the seats, so it would be above the seats. so take a good 5" or more mounting depth sub, +the 4 inches to get over the seat+ 2-3 inches behind sub, it would be really tall. also behind the console, i tried…