SPL & SQ / Fabrication

I was designing a SPL box for 2 10's but i was seeing in other box's a triangle down in the port here is a image of my design. is this correcto or do not is very efective in spl designs? is for 2 10" it have 2.33ft3 with the woofer, port & 45's displacement, the triangle is not contemplated in the displacement. i hope you can help me

Vehicle : 2010 Toyota Tundra DC Location in the vehicle: back passenger side Box size: W:22, H:19, D:17, using 3/4" = 3.0 cubes Subwoofer make and model: SSA ZCON 12 D2 Subwoofer Size: 12" Number of Subwoofers: 1 Type of Port: Aero Preferably (have a flared 3" aero already in my possession) What type of music do you like?: DNB Everyday listening Tuning Freq (Hz): 31hz Volume : 3.0 ------------------------------- So my question, is the 3" aeroport going to be large enough diameter for this sub? I've read where people have used ports that were too small for the sub utilized, and didn't want to run into the same issue. Any further suggestions or ideas for box and/or port(s…

I seen on a build log this guy put 8" subs in his doors for mid bass. He didnt use a box or anything but a adapter so the sub can be mounted. - i am thinking about doing this to my s15 but i imagined that the sub will need the right enclosure to play good. So it leaves me with the question.. will an 8inch sub play good in a door without anything but an adapter for the sub to be mounted. I cannot ask him how it sounded because i dont remeber where the log was. -thanks Dom.

I want you guys to post things here such as materials and bracing methods used to create the stiffest, non-flex box out there and how it's done. I'm tryin to find some materials so when i go to tear down my wall that i have something to fall back on. I've came across this but the comments are up in the air... Some competitors say it's good... others who haven't used it say it won't hold up... Durock... I had visioned on using 5 layers of 5\16" thick in between 2 layers of 0.75" MDF = approximately 3" thick total material. Then cross brace it with - 0.75" all-thread. Now, i'm looking for the stiffest out there... I had read to pour resin in, on and around each Durock lay…

Ok, let's say you need a larger enclosure for SPL competition and you have ran out of port options... You need a larger enclosure... would polyfill help or would it actually drop pressure potential... My ports are starting to tune past my peak and i can't enlarge my port area too much more... Was wondering if i start dropping polyfill in the enclosure if it will not only start to lower the tuning back some but keep me gaining as well... Is it worth a try?

I THINK ITS A REAL SHAME THAT TEXAS BASS PRODUCTION GIVES ITS PLAYERS A FALSE SENSE OF SECURITY MAKING THEM THINK THEY ARE BETTER THAN THEY REALLY ARE BECAUSE IF THEY WERE TO GO TO A USACI OR IASCA EVENT THEY WOULD HAVE THEIR ASS HANDED TO THEM BY THE HEAVY HITTERS AND LORD BACCUS IF YOU WANT A RING GO TO SOUTH PADRE AND EARN ONE... CHEF

I currently use DIY interconnects in the form of a twisted pair with drain wire terminated with soldered RCA ends. This has worked very well for my current setup and has been fairly cheap. Although, the twisted pair is more likely used for a balanced signal then an unbalanced signal (all my runs are unbalanced). I have been researching various interconnect methods and their craziness. I have noted form numerous sources that coaxial interconnects are better suited for unbalanced signals. From what I gathered, using coaxial cable in the vehicle environment can be expensive and difficult. The difficulties arise with inflexible cabling and long RCA ends. I can image the troub…

i'm redoing them. the tweet is gonna be in them this time and i'm molding them to the actual kick panel from the car.... one question though...should i seal of the backside of the tweeter hole? or just leave it like that?

I think I got my first box design down, hope to have you guys double check it all for me....... tunning will be at 35 hz. port area is 62 sqaure inches box volume is 4.29 ( havn't figured out what the 45's and braceing will displace) I just used 4 cubes for all my math. useing 3/4" mdf and will use double baffle. port opening will measure 15.5" W X 4" H , useing the bottom of the enclosure as the bottom of the port, ported to the side. port length will be 27.5" long the port will fire toward a vertical mdf wall on the drivers side. sub will fire up, and i will plan on having it inverted, for now. it will work out that the sub will be almost centered in the vehicle. kee…

ok so word around town in the local audio house in town is lookin to build a car to "out do me" they found a sucker that wants to be me! sooo they have a plan to do 8 mojos.. 2 cheap 12s and a buncha other crap from 15 grand... so work got to me.. and i drove around tell i found this fool... ohh you should have seen his face... anyway... i talked about walling onew of my cars before... now im doing it. i wanna do a simple wall.. nothing crazy.. i wanna do 4 15's or 4 18's.... im thinking 15;'s but first tthing is first... what car should i do it in is the poll working?

Has anyone ever put an center channel in a late 90s model Chevy / GMC ??? Truck or SUV (same dash literally where the defroster vents are concerned) ... I know there will be ALOT of work to go into this ... most likely will never happen, but, you never know... I'm not really concerned about it helping or hurting my stage and image at this time ... I'm just interested to see if it has been done ... I'm considering either a 5.25 or 6.5 driver (full range) ... Thanks in advance ...

alright, so i've been debating something here and i wanted to get your opinions on it. some of you may know that i have a Hummer H2 that i've been slowly putting together for an "SQ" style build. now i have been thinking about doing 6.5's components active in the front doors with the tweeters being in the factory A pillars pointing straight at each other, 5.25 components active in some kicks with with the tweeters also housed down there, 6.5's with the passive x-overs in the rear doors and some 4in midbass/mid range in the factory rear pillars and the fatory 8in. sub replaced with a Pro Audio 8in and i wanted to know how that sounded to you guys and your input on this set…

HI everyone. I come with another question. I know there are probably many variables but I was wondering if there is a general guideline as to when bracing is required for a sub box. Lets say for instance my sub is a 12 that requires a sealed 1 ft.cu. box with 1 inch mdf. It will be fed 1500 watts rms. Would I need to brace this box? does it make a difference if the box is sealed or ported? Thanks!

To burp a sub would I just go wth a bigger amp and turn the gain up and give it a burst for 5 seconds or so?

So, i am going to need to coat the entire inside of my upcoming project in resin.. I have a few questions... 1- Any type of resin and hardener i should use specifically for this or any at Lowes for fiberglassing fine? 2- How many coats or how thick should i make it? 16 cubes GROSS 7kw of power with All-thread bracing. 3- Is it ok if i coat the entire inside with resin, then after it cures, drill out all the holes i need to run my allthread? OR should i already run all-thread and have it braced before coating with resin?

well, looks like rattlebox317 will be running a wmd2 12" this spring. tuned @ 32 hz. little over 42"sq.in. of port area. 4.5 cubes gross, with a internal volume of 2.53 cubes net. double baffle, .75 mdf . will be rear firing in a 2000 olds alero trunk. dd setup, rap / hip hop. still playing with a couple of amp options. will zero in on that real soon.

Okay new to the site. Just ordered two ICON 12's and they should be here in 3 weeks. I'm working on a ported box and needed some input if someone is willing to help. I've gone on torresbox calculator and I came up with some dimensions and would like to know what everyone thinks. Or if anyone has any suggestions. I want SQ but not where it would sacrifice SPL. It's going in an 08' Escalade. I'm pushing with a SoundQubed 2200. I have two sets of Hertz HSK 165's for up front on a PPI 900.4. I have two new Duracell Marine batteries and just did the Big 3 upgrade. Just really want to know what everyone thinks on my dimensions and how I should face the subs and port. …

Why is it that some companies suggest a larger box for Fart boxes then others recommend smaller boxes for Fart boxes? What's the difference? Why would a large box work for one sub and not another and vice versa?

Sprint so I have a 06 tundra access cab with a fi x12 in I believe 2 cuft ported box tuned to around 32-34 maybe. But why do I notice such a big increase in "volume" of the sub when I put the windows down or open a door? This is probably a noob question but I'm just curious. Thanks. Btw it's running on a 400rms powerbass amp. It's where the back left seat would be. Standing up with the sub facing drivers seat and port facing the passengers side. Thanks

never designed a ported box before so feel free to give any critisism/help for an xcon 10" net box volume 1.37 cubes port length 31.05" diameter: 1.75" if anyone is so inclined feel free to double check calculations and such as ive never done this before and might have done something wrong all info should be in pics bellow

this is 1 of the coolest setups iv seen in a while 6 ID MAX 12" w/ over 8k from the TruTech amps

Rebuilding for my home music room, plans for the box are 7.5@26hz with 120sq in of port, 3/4" mdf, double/triple baffle (haven't decided) 1.5 all around, sub forward port forward, on spikes. Woofer is a FI BTL 18. I like Decaf and DJSNT, chopped and screwed, etc. Anything you'd advise me to change before I go and pick up wood? On 500rms for now, intend to pick up an EP2000 down the road.

Does anyone have any recommendations for a good table saw to be able to cut whole sheets of wood? Would want to stay under 1500. Will be for an audio shop

if anyone knows were or who makes 8 inch aero ports please text me 606-875-9811 thanks

Okay, it's about time to put my Sundown SAZ 3000D to good use, I've finally settled on subs, they are Crossfire XP 15's that I will get for super cheap and they are high quality subwoofers: http://crossfirecaraudio.com/htdoc/cf_m01_product_05_xs.asp#. I have some dimensions worked out, I used the SSA Box Calculator and I believe it's all worked out, I just need help bringing the calculator measurements to life! http://www.soundsolutionsaudio.com/home/in...int=1&page= Can someone give me a hand on how to put that on paper so I can build it?