SPL & SQ / Fabrication

I have 4 12" RF Punch Z's in a sealed box. There are 4 different chambers in the box, one for each sub. (Approx 1 1/2 cuft each) I'm wanting to port this box to make it louder with PVC aero ports. My questions are: 1) Should I put a different port for each chamber/sub? or Should I take out the walls between each chamber and just port the whole box as one? 2) How big of PVC pipe will I need to effectively port the box? Id like the tuning to be as close to 30-35 hz as possible. Doesn't have to be an EXACT tuning 3) Where should I put the ports? Here's a couple pictures to help with what the box design is:

Since I have a Ford Taurus my trunck was totally sealed and no bass would come through and had to port my seat and my deck lid and am trying to locate some speaker cloth that will let the bass to travel through without affecting airflow. Do they make this. I did try the metal mesh grill like I saw in an Overhualing tv show but found it affected bass intensity and sound quality. I am a musician and know my bassists amp has a plastic type mesh (grill) that suppesedly doesn't affect sound quality. Just wondering if anyone out there uses anything specific?

i just went on car stereo.com and i have a 2 cu.ft. box and to tune it to 34hz with the sub being an icon 12 the round port would be 4" diameter and 11.72" long is this right

All my experience in audio comes with sealed enclosures, even so, after having visited this site, I feel like my past work was rather half assed and mindless. This is what I have so far: I am planning on using two soundsplinter rli10s, and I could be perfectly content with keep it sealed, but I want to try my hand at porting and perhaps learn something new. I have been trying to talk to a few people about porting this enclosure, but I am not really getting any good information, and I am also reluctant to trust any information from WinISD. From what I understand, that program can be slightly flawed. My box is 1.08 cubic feet after all displacements are taken into account…

How much will having a bend in a round port affect tuning & sound? Not talkin like 90's, maybe a 30-45 at most. Is there a way to compensate for it w/ length or something or just trial & error? Bigger port maybe? ie 5" port 30 deg bend compared to 3" port with same bend?

Here is some up front info Vehicle : Gravedigger Powerwheel Location in the vehicle: rear hatch, ported into front cab Space available (Length x Width x Height): Subwoofer make and model: SA-8 V1 Subwoofer Size: 8" Number of Subwoofers: 1 Type of Port (Kerfed, Slot, Aero, etc.): 3" pvc What type of music do you like?: just want a burp box. Is your goal SPL or Everyday Music?: Mid 160's SPL Tuning Freq (Hz): 37 give or take - Volume : .5 - 1.2 cubic feet of space available. the box pictured below is .62 Questions: Just joined the site. See this thread http://www.soundsolutionsaudio.com/forum/topic/60250-powerwheel-time/ Anyways started a new design for my sons Powerw…

Okay so I am new to this. I am going to be building this in the near future and the hard part is that it's for a regular cab short box s-10 pickup. I do not know if i should go with a "blowout or just put a topor on the truck and put the sub in the back under that. My plan is to run a 2 F.I B.T.L 15" To a Audio Que 3500 H.D Running 1 ohm Power @ 18V** @ 10% THD 7500W x 1. I am trying to find a descent sub box to make up for this. And i have a couple ?'s Like i said i am new to this so am i going to need to push some more power to these beast's or is this going to be enough i mean i want something that is going to wake you up not put you to sleep. Am i going to have to d…

I have a DC XL m1 18 that i am wanting to put in my truck (02 Silverado 1500HD). I am thinking about taking the 60 part of my 60/40 back seat and making a box above my amp rack. I am wanting to tune to 30 hz or lower and would like to possibly do a hairtrick. Is it possible to do in my truck with a single 18? Here is what I have right now: 1 DC XL m1 18 D2 1 Crescendo BC2000D 1 Mechman 270 amp alternator 1 Stinger SPP1500D battery under the hood All 1/0 for big 3 and running to amp This is a box I come up with Would I need more port? Should I change anything else? And where should I place the port? the sub will either be facing up or forward. Should the port face forward…

I might be buying a jeep wrangler in 6 months after this semester of school. Currently I have a ssd15 and I was looking at the jeep and I don't think I can fit an optimal box for the 15 in there. I was brain storming and I came up with an idea. I would take the rear seats out and make a box for two 12's facing forward with a big old port in between them. And build a seat on top of the box. Now should I recone my 15 into a 12 and buy another? Or should I sell it and buy either 2 sa12's or 2 Fi x12's? I am going to run a precision power bk1300.1D. And a set of Polk db 6.5 components off a power bass xax(400.2?) 100rms at 2 channels. All help and advice is much appreciated. …

I have a Tapco J2500 pro amp in my HT (playing an IDMAX 12) and I'm currently running each channel to each voice coil (so that should be about 750wrms to each coil) the signal is mono. The wires I'm using right now are 25ft long and 14 ga. Is this too small of gauge for this power and length My run only needs to be about 15 ft long, Should I 1. Keep the current set up and not worry 2. Cut the 14 gauges to the smallest length possible given the position of my amp and sub 3. Buy larger cable and still run separate wires to each coil 4. Bridge the amp and run the 4ohm coils in series and use make speaker wire so to speak out of 8ga power cable 5. something I haven't thought…

Hey guys, I know iv posted so many topics about my box but its time for another one. I WAS going rebuild my box for my 18" BTL N2, and make it closer to 7.5 cuft net. Iv been thinking about future upgrades though, and im thinking in the end of it all ill be powering my BTL off of two AB VFL 100.1's strapped (3000wrms). Now with that much power to my subwoofer, would 7.5cuft be a little too big? Iv been talking to one or two people about it and they said it might be a better idea to keep it around 5.5-6 cuft with that much power running to it.

http://www.power-sonic.com/index.php?id=31&gr_id=40 They use the same glass mat technology as Kinetik. I'm thinking about putting three of these in the back of my car. What do you think? Nominal Voltage........................................................ 12 volts (6 cells in series) Nominal Capacity 20 hour rate (5.5A to 10.50 volts) ................................................... 110.0 A.H. 10 hour rate (10.3A to 10.50 volts) .................................................. 103.0 A.H. 5 hour rate (17.7A to 10.20 volts) .................................... 88.5 A.H. 1 hour rate (61.8A to 09.00 volts) ............................................... 61.8 A.H…

I would love to use PR for car audio application. Before I start designing the system I have a couple questions. 1. Will the automobile environment be too abusive for PRs? With a vehicle in motion, going over bumps and accelerating/deaccelerating, cause the PR's cone to move affecting performance? 2. I have read that downward firing a PR will cause the diaphragm to be displaced downward. If the PR is mounted cone up will the cause a similiar situation (diaphram sinks towards spiders)? In my current vehicle the only way I can use PRs is with cones pointed upward.

Alrighty, so I've got a few question. I'm building a ported box in my G35 Coupe and I'm using a round port instead of a slotted port. I'm planning on using these ports. I've been using this calculator to do it. Right now I've got a 2.0 cuft box, I plan on using 2 ports, and I'm tuning it to 29hz. After clicking calculate, it gives me the vent length of 9.13 inches. Does this mean I'll cut both of the cylinders to that length? Or where exactly does that measurement start and end? Also, any tips on doing a flared port box? Slotted was easy, but I wasn't sure if this is any more complicated. Also, what panel of the box should I have the ports for the best results? If it matt…

What is the technical reason why it is BAD to have pressure behind a wall in my truck? -- or any ride at that. Thank you.

i have a 1997 mercury mountaineer with 2 fi q18's DRUMMING~! they are powered by a t20001bd rockford. i am losing so much pressure out of the back glass do to flexing. do they make clamps for the back hatch to hold it down? its a daily box in now and will future be a crx style spl box. i currently have a 12 cube crx style box with 120 sq. inch of port. thanks for any and all help! Damon

Ok we are in the works of having a show at the end of march or early april. depending on the weather... This time we will have 2 meters. head to head competition to see whose louder. We also plan to have an sq portion to the competition for all the sq heads out there. How many would be interested??? We are talking about having one every month in the spring and summer months. maybe some nspl and iasca shows we need feed back!

Ok outa all my yrs of car audio i've never had a problem like this. It all starts i'm drivin and i goto turn the bass up and it plays for a while then cuts off. SO i'm like no bigE mayeb a fuse or bad connection. But i'm like lets test it so i turn off the HU and turn it back on and the system cuts back on. Turn it up again and the same thing happens so no i'm thinking bad connection somewhere. So next day i look at all the wiring and nothing seems to be a problem. I cut it on and it plays normal. I goto close the trunk and it cuts off. lol So i check erething again it looks fine but now a constant bass note plays wt the music even if you turn it down it continues to pul…

Little problems nothing serious. Built enclousure for some 18inchrolling zcons limited on space but couldnt pass the offer up on some z's. Box is small for ported box and tuned high with a smallamount of port are, basically if you could mess a box up and screw yourself over in output this is the box. 180inchs of port area withc4.5cubes per 18 tuned at 40hz not that happy with the output even on a .5ohm load on a sendo with electrical back it up. My question iss would i see a day and night difference if i built a single 18 box the biggest i could build out of my space? Pics of the franksteinvbox xustom finish on it.

Hi guys im new at this and was wondering if i could get the usual help you guys give others ohh and thanks in advance. I got this system i got two performance teknique amps one is a 2000 watts 2 ch and the other is a 1600 watts one i got two kikker subwoofers 12" double coil 800watts each anda7" lcd screen and an alpine 9851 model radio plus the 7 channel pre amp and the profile crossover ok said that. Now i got everything installed correctly i even bought an extra gel 800 optima battery and a 1.5 capacitor digital now the problem is that of a scale from 1 to 10 i have to have the subwoofers volume down in like 3 cause my subwoofers amp keeps going ofthen have to turn …

So here is the story. I finally have all of the stuff I need to install my saz2500d. Took box out, 4.75^3. Big for my s-10 3 door. Basically an extended cab with a door. Have the zcon's ready to drop in. Put empty box back in to see where I could put my amp and this is where I run into a problem. Box goes from floor to 2" below back window. From driver side door to 5-6" from other side. With subs installed there is 12" of room on top of box. Amp would hang over about 5" or so. The port is on the passenger bottom. If I mount it on the box overhanging the open port side, would that be a problem? What about mounting it inside the box? The port is 20" wide and 24" long. Plent…

So I designed and built my first ported box on my own, and it does not sound like i anticipated. I believe you all can help. The box is for a single 12'' Fi X with 1.6 cuft @ 31.00 Hz. The sub has a 0.1 cuft displacement, and the Fs is 25.7 Hz. I was told to tune a little higher than the Fs. The O.D. of the box is 16 x 14.75 x 21.625 The port is 8 x 2.25 x 27.875. I used WinISD to design the port. I used 11.25 sqft of port area. I was hoping for it to be musical and be able to go from high freq. to low freq. without problems, but it bottoms out easily on the lows and makes mechanical noise on the highs even with my active cross over set to 35 Hz with a 18 DB slope. …

Anyone know of which programs professional fabricators use...?

Just wondering what you guys think the best programs for simulatiing frequency response, SPL, and similar things, especially for in car or in room calculations. I have WINisd now, alpha and beta, but they both yield problems on my computer for some reason and I can't seem to figure it out. The programs seem pretty easy to use, maybe I just haven't explored these enough. What do you use, does it cost anything, ease of use, knowledge required, different features....

So i'm trying to "model", if that's the correct term, a subwoofer in WinISD and BBP6 as a comparsion between the programs.. They both tune the enclosure super low. WinISD picks a net volume; BBP6 didn't have a specified net volume. Neither suggest port area.. Whats going on? EDIT: BBP6 tuned to 23 Hz (super low), WinISD tuned to a reasonable 34 Hz (but net volume was like .5 cuft)