Sundown Audio
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Sold the last of the SAE-1200Ds today and this line is now discontinued. The SAE-1200D v.2 made big strides in reliability vs. the v.1 model but still does not quite live up to the standard set by the SAZ/SAX series amps in my mind. It was a tough decision as we really wanted to offer a lower cost line but at this time it is not fitting into my plan for Sundown Audio. I've spent alot of time thinking about it and had not made my final decision until today -- I had made plans to introduce matching multi-channels but these plans are now halted. I think the change will be for the better as we can concentrate on our core lines, the SAX and SAZ amps. The SAX-1200D is only slig…
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Jacob, from what I have seen you post in the past couple weeks on the new sub, it sounds like you are planning on making it for more of a ported/spl/ high power app? If so, I have an idea which you may or may not like. I suggest that you make 2 versions of it, 1 for the ported/spl crowd, and another that is totally for the small sealed crowd. I don't know if it's possible to do with the same motor and just a soft parts swap.. call 1 the p8, and one the s8. I have 8 of your e8's and I like them, but wish they had more power handling in a small sealed app. They do tend to bottom fairly easily when you get some power to them, in the recced enclosure. PLEASE, PLEASE, PLEASE, …
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I understand that the 100.4 is 4 ohm stable when bridging. My question is, say I were to bridge the amplifier at 2 ohm putting out the same power as if it were at 4 ohm. So 320 x 2 at 2 ohm instead of 320 x 2 at 4 ohm. Would this still be unstable? The speakers are rated at 320 watts rms as well. The reason I am asking is I can get the same speaker in a 2 ohm version at half the price of the 4 ohm version. Thanks guys!
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The-Scraper and I have been testing our azzes off this week. We got our hands on a Sundown SAZ3000D and tested it on the same setup as the Stetsom and Cyclops. This was not a power test or comparative test, but just to see how well it would do for a 3000watt amp. 3 x battcap 8400, 4 x dd9910's, 1 x sundown SAZ3000D @0.25ohm Results: db = 154.7; voltage drop 11.8. 1 x battcap 8400, 4 x dd9910's, 1 x sundown SAZ 3000D 0.25ohm results: db = 154.1; voltage drop 10.8 As far as 3000 watt amps goes I think it did very well. We did not do a power output. Will do that later on the NSB-g3100! We predict that it will do about the same on the NSB-g3100 as it did on a single batcap 8…
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The 1500D being $599 and the 1000D being only $399 means the 1000D costs less per watt. So why would someone get the 1500 over the 1000?
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My Maxx-Link is installed & dialed in as well as my amps and everything is sounding great. Since I had the clamp and dmm in the truck I decided to go ahead and take some measurements. My strapped 1500s put out 90v and 40a while drawing 400a of current with voltage dropping from 13.5v to 12.2v. If my math is right thats 3600watts @ 2.25ohm & 12.2v out of a pair of strapped 1500s. My subs are dual 1s wired in a parallel series configuration. Basically the amps are strapped @ 1ohm (0.5ohm each). All testing was done on music playing Gorilla Zoe - Waddle (nice consistant 34hz bass line that works well with my current 33hz tuning). Measurements were taken 5-6 se…
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can someone explain this to me in simple terms of how it works? I'm trying to understand how it works but am giving myself a headache. I want this amp to power 2 fronts, 2 rears and 2 "show off" external speakers. Now, by doing a standard wiring job, all 4 in car speakers @4ohm would be receiving as advertised 100w per speaker. I set all the x-overs on the amp the way i want them to be. I then decide to hookup these 2 extra speakers in tri mode by bridging each of the 2 speakers on ch1+2 and ch3+4. This is where i get lost... If the original speakers were receiving 100w before, what are they getting now including the add-on speakers? The amp is rated for 320x2 @4ohm... …
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Ok, I am the final stages of planning my system. Car is a 1997 Nissan Maxima. Musical preference is Rock and Roll( AcDc, Pink Floyd, Rush and pretty much all heavy metal). Amps are going to be all Sundown. I have 4 E8's on order for the midbass powered by a SAX-1004.D, 2 in front doors, 2 in rear deck. Front Stage (in addition to E8 midbass) will be Mach 5 MLi-65's and Seas 27TFFNC/G Tweeters active powered by a SAX-100.4D. My question comes down to the substage. I had originally planned 2 FI Q15's sealed on a SAZ-3000D. Only reason for that is I've always had sealed enclosures, I've never tried a ported. I'm open to opinions here, so here are the 2 options I'm t…
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Okay, I think I have it done, my electrical will consist of a 300 amp alternator (Iraggi), A Powermaster S1200) up front, (2) D1200's for the trunk, all wiring for batteries and amps will be 1/0 ga., Subs will be (4) of the SA-12's powered by (2) of the SAZ-1500D's. This is all going into the back of my 2001 Camry, with the box designed by banginAltima (as soon as he's done) so hopefully the Mad Scientist of SPL (Jacob Fuller) will be proud of me
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I have had 2 songs make my amp go into protect mode. The amp is cool, Subs are cool, so its not thermal, Not a speaker short, so last would be over current. So would over current mean that the gain is to high for that song, its a high note that makes it do it. So the voltage is spiking to high for the amp? its a saz 2k. I just have to turn deck off, turn back on, and all good again. Does it at high volume/full tilt but only on a couple songs
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Finally got all the pieces together and got the system intalled in my Mazda 3. Bought one of the refurbed 50.4's from db-r at the great price they were offering them at to serve as the power for my satellites. Using an old set of Boston Acoustic Pro 5.4's that I've had for years and never did get around to putting into a car for now. The power light adds a ghostly blue-white glow to the interior of my 3. So far, it sounds absolutely amazing.
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Hey, i would be glad to get some Suggestions from you Guys I wanna Build a Box for the 2 18s i gonna buy from Tye, they will be running off 2 3000Ds the Box should be good for Daily groundpounding but my goal is the 150. What kinda Airspace, Port Area and Port length would you guys suggest me? This is what my Trunk looks like (not my car) i got the dimensions from the back part of the trunk, but since fitting Port and Subs at the Top will be kind of hard (damn domes) i thought about doing something like a mini wall with subs and port behind the frontseats facing forward what you guys think?
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Ok I won 1st place again..... I was the only one in my class. USACI event in Indianapolis 147.8 in the kick
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Ok, I'm going to try to make this as easy to understand haha. It's for a 100.2 btw. I went to mock up my amps in my trunk, and in order to retain access to my spare tire, I'm mounting my amps in a certain way. In order to mount it the way I want, I think I need to unbolt the exterior casing, and turn it 180*. Basically my OCD is kicking in, and I want the "sundown" facing in the direction my other amp is facing. I know I can probably unbolt the strip that says sundown, but can I actually rotate the casing like I said? Basically, the 100.2 sticker lies over the power, but can I turn the casing so the sticker lies over the rca inputs? If not, maybe Jacob could hook me up wi…
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MECA has recently altered its forums. They have added dedicated sections for it manufacturer members. Sundown has really stepped up and became a very active manufacturer in the MECA world. So please fell free to stop by Visit My Website
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Ok i'm trying to get down to around 6-6.5 cubes net. but the dimensions i came up with won't work because the subs will be basically sitting on the ports. I've went over so many different dimensions and they're all coming out to around 7-7.5 cubes after port and sub. I wanna do subs up ports back, will be using 4 4" full length aero's. i've got a max of 24" high 37" wide and 24" deep to work with. Someone give me a hand, as i want to start this build tomorrow. If it matters this will be for straight daily and bass race. Also, it will be going in a 2001 2dr. blazer Thanks
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Up for grabs is a pair of 10" Sundown SD-1 subwoofers. I used these briefly for testing purposes, they will come with full warranty as they are very close to new. They do have speaker wire soldered to the terminals, though, pretend it's "direct connect" like DD Price is $125 shipped for the pair in the continental USA. These are GREAT with an SAX-100.2 to power them. I am running a pair of 10" SD-1s in my 2002 Civic if that tells you what I think about them
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anyone within driving distance have a pair of SA-8s i could hear? REALLY thnkin this is the way for me to go, im just from the old school and cant get over 8s that perform like this, id LOVE to hear a pair
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i just saw someone mention a amp of this size when is this being released or is it?
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hello Jacob, I my nightshades blew on me. I was pushing them with an IA 40.1 @ 1 ohm no bass boost and gain set properly, however, I don't want to change my amp so I want to upgrade these to handle the power. I need to know how much it will be to have these two reconed with more spiders and longer coils. They are dual 1 ohm 15's. Please let me know because I want to get this done asap have the money on hand and getting ready for a local comp. Thanks.
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Well im tired of having no bass in about all of my rides. Know that its getting to were its snowing and blowing i would like to get something in the van to hold me over unit summer seeing my 5th and 6th DD 3518's are not in and im still getting around money to power them up. Seeing i got all this stuff laying around or can be used in the install come summer its not gonna cost me anything or take away from my budget (other then about 3 sheets of mdf). Car: 1997 Chevrolet Astro Head Unit: Pioneer Premier DEH-P590iB Comps: Kicker RS65.2 x2 Comps Amp: Sundown SAX-100.4 Subs: 10" Sundown Audio SD-1 x8 Subs Enclosure: T-Line Wall Behind 2nd Row @ 26hz Subs Amp: Sundown SAZ-150…
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