Amplifiers / Head Units / Processors / Electrical

I was wondering will the memphis mojo 4kw run at a 1/2 ohm on burps with proper voltage. I do know that the 08 version will run at 1/2 ohm but they changed a few things on the new mojo.

Am running 2 FI 15 inch Q's with BP power on an AQ 2000 watt amp in a 2000 dodge dakota. I upgraded to a high output alternator (230 max output, i had it tested), and i have already completed the big 3 with 1/0 gauge wire. I am presently using a 850 CCA battery in the hood and have no space for a battery inside the truck. I am currently experiencing diming and since am not interested in using a Cap, i was woundering if i took out that battery and replace it with a kinetik 2000 or 2400 watts battery, would that solve the problem? Thanks

2004 Explorer 4.0 Yellow Top Big 3 will be done in 1/0 when installed Stock 135A Alternator 2 15" Icons Sundown 1500 Sundown 100.4 Couple quick questions before I get a alternator & everything installed: 1 - How do I calculate how big of an alternator I need? Ive seen a couple different way but whats most accurate? Also have a 100.4 2 - Would a 200A alternator and a yellow top suffice for the two amps to stay above 13v at idle? I can try 250A if need be. 3 - Anyone ever use qualitypowerauto.com to get an amp? I want to upgrade to 200A for no more than $300 if I can

I got one..dont have manual and its several years old...not sure how the input section is setup any idea? it has switch for 2 or 4 or 5 channel discrete

I have a fi bl and a sundown 1500d and lately my sytstem hasnt been playing as loud as usual. it just dont have the edge it usually does. If i had to guess i would save ive lost a full 2 db. its not my voltage cause it stays right around 13.3 a lil wire came loose on my old rca's but i bought some new ones and it STILL sounds the same. What other reasons could be causing this not to play as loud?

So im about to buy a daily BTL 18 with cooling, the HiXm coil, and whatever color dustcap. (any one color look awesome to you guys?) I don't have much money for an amp, only about $400 so i'll probably buy a temporary one untill i get enough money (that sundown audio stuff is WAY too expansive...). Either way it's going to be at 2000 rms. This is the only aftermarket thing on my stereo (2009 mustang w/shaker 1000). The BTL will replace two pioneer premier 12's (begginer subs only about 400 rms). From what i've read, im going to need to some electrical upgrades. The Big 3 i can do. Am i going to need a high output alternator?? and how many amps am i looking at? Is it absol…

i have been trying to set my amps but am not getting a good reading im always getting 2. some odd volts then when i turn gain up i get OL. i was thinking since my amp is a pg xenon 600.1 that i would not be able to set it because the amp detects the ohms while the speakers are hooked up, i think thats how it works.

I tried to ground my rca today because i have really bad engine noise, but it didnt work. I took speaker wire and touched it to the rca. (the outside metal part) then touched it to metal in my car, but the noise was still there. Am i doing it wrong? Could it be something else?

Okay guys so I got a 2008 ford escape and right Now I'm running two 12" Pioneer Premier TS-W3001D4 in a sealed enclosure. They are powered by a crunch 1500.1 mono amp. I am most like going to be selling the amp for around $150. So my budget will be around $250-$300. These subs do 1000rms a piece so I'm looking for around 1500-2000 rms. I am aware that I will have to upgrade to 1/0 gauge everything and prob get a capacitor but I'm willing to deal. I have been lookin at some hifonics amps that do around 1700 rms at 2 ohms and they are around 300 on some sites. But as always I appreciate any and all suggestions thanks, Nick

So my amp outputs 3500watts, but its fuses are only 3X30amp so 90 amps which is what 900 watt rms or something around that???? so whats gonna happen if i set it higher then what the fuses can take. I really want to set them higher since i got the bad boy 18 Fi BL.

does anyone have any experience with this unit ? ... can it do damage to anything in my car as it regulates the charge of your alternator to around 15.2 volts ... how easy of an install is it?

So the other day i was driving down the street and the stereo was playing just fine. I was on my way to get another door handle to replace the one that broke. Everything was installed and i plugged my driver side door panel in and the speaker connected to it when the subwoofer stage started turning on and off. SO i immediately turned everything off, I went back with a test light and everything was working fine so i plugged everything back together and it worked fine. So today on my way to work the sub stage cuts off completely. So I immediately turn everything off again. Go to work, and come back home. I did the test light thing again and every time i check the amp tur…

what should my electrical look like to support these and the saz-100.4 ... i am debating on whether i want to buy 2 of these or just get the saz-4500d ... right now i have a 260 amp alt by iraggi and the stock was 130 amp ... i was thinking about buying some of the c and d 100 lb batteries (supposed to be comparable to the hc3800) ... how many would i have to buy to support this amount of power ... i understand i would need a bigger alternator but this is the biggest they make for my car and a dual alt setup is near impossible

I recently purchased a fi bl 15 with the cooling option and was wondering what might be a good amp for it thats under 300 shipped. I was looking into the audioque 1200 but it seems as if not many people have experience with them. All sugestions are welcome. The sub is a dual 2 ohm and going into a ported enclosure around 3.5 cuft(tuning suggestions welcome as well) maybe bigger if i can fit it, theres not too much trunk room in my saturn sc2.

I have a rockford punch 501s bridged to a polkmomo 15 at 2 ohm and it gets too hot and shuts off after about 30-45 min. Bass boost is all the way down and gain is @ 3/4. Gain knobs r messed up though because any less then that the sub is unnoticable. I always ran it at 4 ohm before and never got hot or had any problems. Now it just gets smokin hot. At least 7 years old or so. I guess I should just keep it as a 2 channel then huh?

When I installed my alt. it metered out at 14.9 at idle at 260amps. Driving home today I noticed the battery light came on... As soon as I pulled in the driveway I slapped a DMM to everything! Now on all my points I read 26.5 to 27.3 volts....WTF!!!!! I haven't touched a thing since I installed it. What in the hell would make this alt decide it now want to spit out almost twice the voltage? I'm yanking it out for now and putting in the stock alt...(I know it's good) I've had issues with this thing since day one with the annoying whine it puts out of the housing..... Besides the noise it worked excellent...UNTIL NOW!! Any advise would be nice if anyone has any input.. Than…

i just got my autotek mean machine 1500 hooked up to my 2 type r 12s and i got the ssf at 35 and the lpf at 80...what do you guys run yours at or suggest i run them at

Ok, so i put my amp in advance and if anyone has experience with the t30001bd the top for some reason doesnt get tight. Any idea what i can do to stop the top from rattling?

So... I got bored today and decided to write up equations for amplifiers, like loss, power with efficiency, how to find how efficient it is. basically, a variation of ohms law. as we all know, (V)olts * (A)mps equals (P)ower (V*A=P) but, in amplifier circuitry, this cant be used because amps have their own loss. so lets say our imaginary amplifier is 160A, running off 10.65 Vs, and has an effieciency of 77%. it'll push out around 1312.08 Watts. now to find each number, we use these numbers to find them. Basically, 1312.08W / 10.65V = 123.2a - 160a = 36.8 amps of current lost in the amplifier, 36.8 / 160 = .23, subtract that from 1 and we get .77. simple. I'm quite sure al…

im running a power acoustik 3000 watt mono amp. i'm using 4awg pwr cable and ground. stock alt. i just pulled out my 2 12" power acoustik mofos that i was running and put in a fully loaded 18" fi btl. well anyways when i first hooked everything up it was working fine for 5 mins. then i started blowing fuses in the power cable. i checked everything for shorts, and if anything was grounding out. everything seems fine. even if i dont connect the sub to the amp the fuse still blows. whats causing this? is it because i need thicker power and ground cable?

http://www.cdstandbypower.com/product/battery/vrla/pdf/12_1029.pdf it is the 100 lb battery idk which one it is ik there is 2 of them ... how are they ... someone is selling them for around 250 each on a car audio forum ... they are supposed to be comprable to the kinetic hc3800 he said

i was wondering if the audiopipe ap30001d can run at 1 ohm stable??

i upgraded my alternator to an iraggi 260 amp .... i had an excessive amperage 300 amp in there but it was not charging correctly ... it was only charging at 13.9 and would get voltage drops into the low 10s ... i sent it back because i thought the alternator was bad ... i sent my stock one to dom to build me one to work for my car ... i just put it in and am getting similar readings ... this time i am getting around 13.8 (best) and drops to the low 10s .... i understand my t40001 draws 400+ amps of current but i dont think the voltage drop should be that bad (drops like that within 3-4 seconds) ... i am pretty sure the battery is good ... i only have the front battery in…

So Ive bought and returned every solder gun in home depot and none of them work for what Im doing. I want to solder the ring terminals to my 0/1 wire but the guns dont heat it up enough. Where do i get a decent solder gun for doing 0/1 wire and how many watts should it be? The highest I found at home depot was 75. Two weekends in a row now its starting to get frickin annoying. Any ideas?

Alright guys I know this kind of question has been asked before but I just wanted to make sure what will be right for me. I already tried searching for a long time but haven't really found my answer. So I just bought a SAZ-2000D from Mark for my subs and I already have a JBL 4 channel amp for my mids and highs. So what I am trying to figure out is if I should upgrade my alt or just get a second battery. I already have a yellow top upfront and I have the factory 145 amp alt. My system would be around 2500 watts but judging by how the SAZ-2000D did on Jacob's clamp test I'm guessing my system will be close to 3000 watts. I have about 400 dollars left to spend on electrical…