Amplifiers / Head Units / Processors / Electrical

would anybody be able to tell me were i could get a voltmeter for my dash im looking for just a basic one any advice would be helpful

Anyone know of a good voltmeter for the single-din spot don't like the look of that emptiness. I know of stinger but want a smoother look.

i was just curious on what you guys thought....im wanting to get a voltmeter and ive looked at stinger meters....but i was thinking about the autometer analog gauge...(ive got a spot on a gauge pod)...but i didnt know how acurate they are/other peoples opinion

So I was just curious when wiring a voltmeter to my amp, can I just put the power, remote, and negative wire directly into the amp where the battery wires are put in? Or do I have to try and splice them into a "Y" right before they enter the amp?

I have the big 3 done, double runs of 0ga, sundown wire 270 alternator , m4b amplifier 3 3400 xs battries in trunk volts are at 14.3 but when up loud bass note hits and volts drop to 10 showing on bass control knob....p.s. Digital design 9900 series subs are wired to .5 ohm Do I need more xs battries ???

ok so when i first turn my car on my volts are usually 14.2 when im not even playin my sub or have my ac on it slowly drops to 13.5 and sits there. then the rest of the day i never see 14s again i had my alt checked and its fine so i have no idea wat it is. any ideas?

Is there a way to wake up both amps and have them power on instead of having to wire both with the (don't remember name) "wake up wire" ? I looked on the back of my cd player and it doesn't look like there's a spot to put it. But there is a slot for "sub out:" on it hat looks like its just a rca cable connection....hrmmm

Should i get this HU? LINK is it decent, and is it better than a panasonic cq-rx100u which is my current HU?

k. im pretty sure i didn't set it up 100% right but thats why i wanna check before i get my new subs. i got 2 amps. i got a 500 watt insignia 2 ch. bridgeable amp and a 1000 watt 2 ch. bridgeable koiiler amp. i think its a 4 gauge wire with fuse wired from my battery to my 1 farad cap. then grounded the cap and attached another power wire from the cap to the 500. then i added another power wire from the cap over to the 1000. i split the blue wire from the 500 from the deck to the 1000. then got sum rca's from the output on the 500 over to the input on the 1000. i kno its confusing but im trying to list it as best as possible. its hard to explain. but its alot cleaner se…

I drive a 2001 GMC Jimmy 4 door with a 4.3L Vortec V6 and want a 200 amp or so alternator to replace my stock one with and would like recommendations on what companies to look at. I am considering Excessive Amperage, Mean Green, PowerMaster and KnuKonceptz. There were others but I forgot them. Any feedback is appreciated.

http://www.vibeaudio.co.uk/car/blackdeath-amplifiers/blackdeath-reaper/

Here' s my current setup. Alpine 9885 (4V) Front: CDT CL-62 (160RMS) w/ Soundstream Rubicon 2.600 (180x2 @ 4ohm) Rear: CDT CL-69X (100RMS) w/ Soundstream Rubicon 2.250 (75x2 @ 4ohm) Fi BTL 12" D2, loaded (2000RMS) Soundstream Rubicon 1.2500 (2500 @ 1ohm) I want to add a duplicate set of CL-62 up front. The 2.600 amp is rated for 300x2 @ 2ohms as well. So I assume, wire the crossovers in parallel from the amp. + to + and - to -. That would yield a 2ohm load from the amplifier giving me how many watts per component at 4ohm each?

Toyota tundra with stock alt, hid lights, 100rms x 2 channel on the doors and 1300rms on the sub. I'm looking into buying a new battery for under the hood because there is no place to install a second battery in my truck with still a fully functional bed and max seating. I was looking at the kinetic 1800 or 2200. Not sure how big I need to go but I'm pretty sure I can squeeze just about as large of a battery as I could find in the stock location.

Hey guys, been lurking for a while now (on CA.com, DIYMA and ROE more). I thought I registered but guess not. Anyway I bought this AX 5600 BNIB, I believe it is a 2006 model. Upon arrival I noticed that the Xovers were 50-500 for the sub channel, 50-500 for the "Front" 2ch and the "Rear" were able to be bandpassed from 50-500 and 200-5k. I have an Alpine CDA-9835 HU and CDT ES-6 mids and DRT-25 tweeters and a single 12" SS RL-p in a 2 cube box tuned to 32hz. I want to run the comps active off this amp. Now I'm stumped why the "Front" channel Xover is 50-500hz. Please tell me I have a fluke amp that has a typo and that really should be a say, 2000-20000hz HP filter....? Or…

at the moment i have a hifonics brutus bxi-1210D. I recently saw on the ssa store front page the saz-1000D and also heard the sundown amps are rated at 12v which is awesome for me because I still have not upgraded my electrical, i will be just havent yet. My question is, will it be worth it to sell my amp for another that does around the same power? Isnt the sundown just a better all around amp? I just think its a little flashy and funny lookin haha.. Good amp dont get me wrong but I want an amp with 0gauge inputs kinda. I am running one fully loaded bl 15" and i think the saz would just be a better match.. does anyone know if the saz1000D has a bass knob? you know like t…

I now run a PPI DCX 1000.1 running 2 IDQv3 subs. A shop in town has had this US amp MD23 sitting on the shelf for a few years now never been used and has marked it way down. Comparing the specs it seems like the US amp would be better for SQ but it is an A/B so the PPI is probably more efficient. PPI S/N 80%, US amp S/N 105%, PPI damping 50, US amp damping 600. I also like the fact that I can run my subs at 2ohms instead of 1 ohm. Anyways this is something I don't have to do but it would be nice to try something new. I don't want the US amp if it's going to drain my electrical system real bad. Any input would be greatly appreciated

So I'm been on the web looking at different types of 5k amps that are linkable amps, so I can upgrade my current amp set up...I'm looking for a amp out of these new or used- dd m4a, sundown audio 4500, crescendo bc5500, dc audio 5k, ampere audio 5000.1. It has to be able to do around 3800-4000 wire down to 1.3ohms. Running 3-18s DSS ethos box is in the works.... Electrical is dual alts stock will run the truck, mid, and highs the singer 270amp will run only for the battery bank. 4 juice box blackcherry battery back, two runs of 1/0 wielding wire. ( would like more batts if space would allow) ( playing music daily and burbs on comps) I'm not looking…

So I was reading about my 2002 jeep liberty (KJ) electrical system and found this The charging system of our KJ's is much different to ones in the past. I have been told that in an efforet to protect the PCM and other computer components in the KJ, the charging system draws from the battery FIRST and then calls on the Atl/Gen to re-plenish the battery as needed. That is why the new generation of Deep Cycle batteries work so well. They have the reserve power to allow the extra toys without needing to add the huge alt/gen of the past. As you use your lights, stereo, winches, what ever, they will be drawing from a battery that is not designed to power all that stuff. A deep …

The new SAX 200.4 makes me feel like everything I ever bought has been wasted money! I hope this isnt going to be considered spam. But I just had to SCREAM IT AT THE TOP OF MY LUNGS! Come to me SAX 200.4 . Unbelieveable. Just had to tell someone.

guys , what does the CAPACITOR do exactly ?? all i know wit capacitors that its some how like a battery , it get charaged , then it charges off givin high current at an interval , :S or am i wrong , any ways , what does it do ,??? thanks for help

ok my friend has a kicker 1500, and another has a lunar 1500 (made in louisiana, really good), but the guy says its really only 500 TRUE watts, but it is just as loud as the kicker, if not better, can anyone explain this to me?

hi, i have been using my psp for music lately and the difference in volume from a cd and that is huge and i am wondering how can i go about making it louder? i figure i might be able to use a linedriver but then i got to thinkin that might mess stuff up since most are 8 volt line drivers so if a head unit only has 4 volts preamp i can see problems. so can only one shine some light on this. of btw i am getting a Alpine CDA-9885 ( i need a decently cheap but still a decent headunit right now.)

So to get any decent volume out of my new sub, i have to have the gain on my new amp really high.....too high and the bass boost up pretty far too. I know the RCAs arent the best, and its a sony HU.....but still, any ideas?

I am a panasonic fan so i want one of these HU's Interesting that they use a tripath cchip, i'm assuming they're the first

I recently purchased a DXZ785usb to replace my panasonic CQ-C7203U with ipod connector. Here is a list of the problems I have run into. 1) The source unit doesn't recognize my ipod. Ipod is a bit older but software is up to date. So I am just going to sell the Ipod... bought an Iomega 120 ext HD and installed all my music on it. 2) USB off source unit isnt enough to power HD alone. I bought this all in one car charger with a USB port. HD runs and is recognized by the source unit. If you switch the source to CD/Tuner etc.. and jump back to USB/MTP the unit will have to completely read the HD before playing music again, I have 20 GB used atm and takes about 20-30 se…