Amplifiers / Head Units / Processors / Electrical

How the hell do you supply 3-400v in a car setting? What kind of charging system goes with that? Also, whoa.

i am ordering knukonceptz 1/0 and im getting my fuses, what size should i get my fuses, i am running 2 from batt to powermaster 2400 and one from powermaster to amp.

I was looking at getting the Kicker KX3 Crossover to let me run active. I'll have a pair of Ascendant Audio Carbon Fiber Mids and a set of Morel tweeters. A 4 Channel will be powering the speakers. If I wire the tweets on the front channels and mids on the rear channels, should I be all set? I'll obviously bandpass the mids, and just use the HPF on the tweets. Ive read the manual, but the controls are odd. I looked into the AudioControl 4XS, but this is cheaper new. Thanks for the help

Does anybody have any idea where Sundown Audio amps are made ?? t Thanks.

I'm new to the forums... so hello alls... here is my situation... I am getting ready to purchase a US Amps IS-2150 amp... which from what ive heard... on average... pushes 715-720 watts bridged peak and 600 rms @ 4ohms... and am wanting to push 3 Eclipse 6103 10's... I currently have 2 of them... which are both 4ohm SVC... the 3rd may be single or dual vc... depending on how i need to do this... or i can have the two SVC's replaced and get all 3 DVC... my problem is getting the proper ohm load... im not sure how i can do it... if i run them in parrallel... im looking at 1 or 1.3ohms... which im not sure if the amp i want is stable at th…

Sup guys quick question, What do you think would be the best amp to accommodate a sundown audio sa8. The sub would be in a ported enclosure around .8 cubic ft tuned about 31-32 hz. I want use for daily driver not spl. I know it's rated at 400rms but do you guys think it can handle more? For amps I like rf kicker jl I've owned all three, never had problems. It's just very hard to choose the correct amp. Usually I have the same brand for both sub and aml but sundown doesn't have a amp around 400rms (at least not in my price range) I mean I wouldn't wanna spend the extra dollars for something like sae1000. Sure there will be headroom but I don't plan on upgrading this is g…

ok, so i just upgraded my stock head unit to a double din non touch screen thing, JVC something. its alright. i kinda miss my other.... i miss my steering wheel controls, and i hate how my antenna goes up when the thing is on, not just when the radios on. and it sucks that my ipod would be one of the 2 it supports that you cant control from the ipod. only the head unit... but besides all that so, a few problems i might get professionally fixed tomorrow unless its a simple fix. before, i had my suboofer amp hooked up to the back speakers. i splaced into that. i know stupid, i got bitched out on another forum,which is why i have the new deck. so now, ts almost all hooked u…

What was your favorite amplifier you have ever owned, and why was it your favorite? Just a fun topic that involves some retrospect. I was listening to my system, just taking it in today on the way home from work. I had to do too much thinking about my favorite comp set ever and still haven't really nailed down my fave, my favorite sub was simple, but the amp took a little thought. I had to weigh out a few, but the top few were definitely easy to recall. So give it up... The favorite you ever owned and why.

orion-2400watts-449$ http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewI..._Pr4_PcY_BIN_IT MA-460$ http://cgi.ebay.com/MA-AUDIO-HK802SX-HK-80...1QQcmdZViewItem or i could save about 100$ and get that bx2006

Ok, I have been searching and reading yesterday and today. I went back as far as 2007 but I couldn't find any topics like this one that had any good answers. My car will have a Iraggi 180A alternator (biggest that fits my car), BIG 3 with 1/0, 1/0 run for positive and negative from the front to the back and I will be using one Hifonics XX Colossus II and one SS REF4.920, giving a output of about 3800W rms. This will be a daily system, but I will be going to DB drags and other social car stereo events so the car will be competing a little bit and demonstrating the car stereo with the engine off, probably charging with a Ctek 25A charger or using a other power supply. I kn…

Hi, I just received a new sundown sae-1200dv2..Hooked it up, runs fine however the crossover is not working properly. My current setup consists of the stock head unit ('06 tahoe) with a Scosche LOC-80 line out converter with the gains set around 85%. I was running a directed 1200/5 before and the setup worked fine. However now using the sae when I turn the LPF all the way down I still hear vocals coming out of my subs. I was told this is because my old amp used a 24dB slope, and the sundown amp uses 12dB. I have no idea where to go from here. Any suggestions please?

i was looking for amps to power 2 or 3 fi btl 18 subs which each rms at 3000, i was going to get two because amps were really expensive and didnt have enough money but then i came across the kicker wx10000 for 1600 dollars i though was a really good price do you guys know any other amps that have good prices. what do you guys think about this amp and how would i connect it? http://www.audiosavings.com/products/Car-Amplifiers/NEW-KICKER-WARHORSE-07WX10000.1-CAR-AMPLIFIER-WX10000.1/07WX10000.1.aspx btw i dont know much about car audio i only know a few stuff

hey everyone i am having trouble setting my gain on my us amps xt1600.2. i am using a dmm to set it and have discovered that i need to come up with a 66.3v reading at 1100 watts rms and with my sub wired at 4 ohms. i am running my headunit at about 25 which is about as loud as i want to go because the door speakers are starting to distort and sound like ass but when i do this i am only coming up with a voltage of about 20v. this is with the gain cranked all the way and my question is could this hurt anything? since im not even close to the 66.3v i am supposed to be at (someone might want to double check that for me..i would appreciate it!) could i possibly be doing an…

Ok so I was on my way home from work and my sub stopped hitting so I pulled over immediately got out and looked to see what was wrong. My amp was in protection so I made sure my headunit was completely off and turn my car off and back on again. I went back and checked and the amp wasnt it protection but there was no power light either. I popped the hood and looked at the fuse for my power wire and it was blown. So I changed out that one with a spare one i had. As soon as I turned the car again the inline fuse blew again. Can someone help me? What is making it do this? My gain was set with DMM and I have been driving it for two weeks with no issues. Any help would be aweso…

I cant do both. I have one Iraggi HO alt rated 160-200A @ idle, 220A peak should I add 1 more bigger alt to the AC bracket or add 2 more 100aH Oreilley AGMs, Intimidator knock offs

I put my mechman 240a alt on and have a group 65 diehard platinum under hood and small stinger in back. when playing full tilt on heavy bass im seeing low 12s. If i add another big plat in the back will this keep my voltage in the 13s or will it still drop to 12s as that's what the batteries rest at? this may be stupid question but none the less i am curious.

Ok so I'm in the market to buy another amp for my new sub setup. My Car is a 94 Legend Coupe 6.5" Infinity Kappa Fronts 6x9' Infinity Kappa Rears USAMPS XT1600.4 V2 Amp Running the Kappa's Now I'm needing to power (1) 15-inch RE SXX D2 Subwoofer in a 35hz Ported 3cft Custom Fiberglass/Wood Spare Tire Enclosure These are the amps im looking at : USAMPS MD-2D 1500rms@1ohm $319.99 MTX TE1501D 1500rms@1ohm $369.99 Kicker KX1500.1 1500rms@2ohms $359.99 (if I get this amp I would buy the RE SXX D4 of course) So what amp should I get? The car is a daily driver, so efficiency and SQ is important to a certain extent but not a MUST, im willin to sacrifice some efficiency for power.…

I wanted to take a bit of your time if you dont mind cause i need some help. The only difference is your making about 19,000 more watts compared to what i have LOL sad to say im having voltage drop, sub bass cuttin off when im at idle and when driving at night it tends to cut off when im bumpin it decently loud. I have a 2001 blazer with the oem alternator 1 optima redtop battery and the big 3 upgrade using 1/0 oxygen free tsunami compotition power cable. The problom im having is that when I have the car with the engine on and I play music decently loud I notice that the voltage drops to about 12 volts. I was hoping you guys could help me out. I have one 4awg kicker power…

Im looking at this 220 amp alternator with an overdrive pully, anyone messed with this company? i called mechman and they wanted 499 for a 1995 chevy lumina 3.1l v6 alt but these guys at power bastards want 225 for the same thing. anyone messed with them?

Hello i recently purchased 2 of the power acoustics 55001d amps to power 4 SSAicon 15's. turns out the amps are complete garbage and i wish i never got them. anyways i'm sending one back to either get store credit or sell both on craigslist to purchase one of the 2 models of hifonics ( heard they are better then they used to be) and for the price i cant beat it. 1 amps per 2 subs. so my question is the subs are approx 1000w rms and the BXi 2010d should be baseline for the subs. but is it worth the extra $120 per amp worth it for the extra 600w (BXi 2610d)? also if anybody has firsthand experiance with these amps your feedback is greatful.

heres my problem, i already have my amps in hand, in question is the mono subwoofer amp which is a hifinoics brutus BRZ2400.1D RMS Power @ 1 ohm 2400 watts x 1 channel i also already ordered my subs which are 3 fi q series 18's, someone brought up to me that with ohm rise i really will only see around 500 watts per sub, and to me thats a waste when thats only half there rated power..so i have 2 options to go from here, by another fi q and end up with 4 18's and buy another brz 2400 watt amp which would really put a strain on me budget wise, or stay with the 3 18's and use the brz 2400 watt amp on 2 of the fi q series and buy a Hifonics Brutus BRZ1200.1D for only $209 and …

I've been thinking about buying an Oscilloscope for a while now. What should i be looking for when it comes to buying one? What makes one durastically better than the other? For know it will be used solely for setting gains to insure minimal clipping, but I would like it to be able to do whatever else one would do with an Oscilloscope. Seeing as I'm an Electrical Engineering major I know it will most likely come in handy in my future so I would like to get one that has a wide range of uses. So what should i be looking for when it comes to the specifications of an o-scope? Thanks for your time.

I need to run a mtx 7514-04. what would be the cheapest thing possible? Well i dont even need to give it full power. all i need to do is make it bump good. but i don't know what kind of watttage it would need to make it sound good (givin that is an vague word anyways). just the cheapest way to run it i guess, thank you.

Well I have ran into something here and I think I may have gotten lucky on my part.... My friend who is going to help me install my car system here whenever I get everything together. He told me that he has a 5 farad cap and that I could have it from him for a few cases of...beverages. Now I am curious about this seeing as I was told to stay away from caps and just get a battery bank. What questions should I ask him when deciding if I want this or not? He says its pretty new and was only installed into his car system once. Then he took it out due to too many tickets over a week (must have been dumb about it) and never put it back in. Now for the serious question here, sho…

I have a JBL BP1200.1 powering a rl P-12. From battery to amp is about 9 ft and ground is about 4 ft. The amp's plug looks like its for a 4ga. Should single 4ga runs be sufficient? if so, who wants to buy some 1/0 and sell me 9 ft of 4ga??? (from the old setup)