Amplifiers / Head Units / Processors / Electrical

What's this? OOO, just peeking This is going to be unused Business end Diddle Note my roommate's ugly feet. Gross. Thanks JoeHemi... great doing business with ya

So I'm planning on running one run of zero gauge from the batt to a distro block (Like the Kicker PDK1 if anyone feels like looking) so that I don't have to drill two holes in my firewall. But the SAX1200D just shot up from 315 to 375, (just outta my price range) so I'm gonna get a refurbished SAZ1500D from DB-r. My question is, since the distro block is going to be 0ga in and 4ga out, can I run two runs of 4 ga to the 1500D (as my other amp will be an SAX125.2) and feed the it the current it needs? Or will it not be enough and possibly overload my one run of 0ga? (it'd be a decent 0ga wire too, btw. Like Stinger or maybe Kicker)

whats up ssa i have a little problem i have two jl audio amps 500x1 mono there suppose to be hook on each sub i have 2 kicker l7 15 2ohm now my problem is im trying to strap them together i thought i follow all of the directions its just missin something feels like a lack of power now i did have these hook up not to long ago then i switch over to us amps which i love but i had to send one in for repair so i put the jls back in until my us comes back now keep in my mind everything is brand new so i dont know what i hook up wrong i need help bad because i miss my bass so if anyone has diagrams or knows how to hook these up propley i greatly appreciate it. thanks Mr crown

Gain matching two sub amps... as easy as eyeballing it, right? If not.. details?

Has anybody heard of the Stetsom 7KD being used for daily used for daily use. How much power is it really capable of?

I need to order 3 pair of RCA's before the SWVA TeamSSAudio meet, wanting to install 8053, anyway, I have not bought high end RCA's in a while, and I am not going to buy monster cable, I have bought mostly decent RCA's for normal needs. For this install, hopefuly for SQ competition, if not just for high end SQ in my car. I would like to stay under $50ish. I am considering the Knukonceptz Krystal Cable, RF, and maybe the Tara labs cable that Nick Lemons reffered to. Any help in this would be nice, hope to order asap.

Hey guys, I have a good friend who is putting a tablet in place of his head unit. That will leave me with an opening of about 12"x12"x4" to place an amp for him. Does anyone know of or can recommind a 50x4 class ab amp that will fit in those dimensions without getting overly hot? I dont even know what to look for as most amps are bigger than that.... I have heard of mini amps but not sure of sound quality? His budget is less than 150 bucks so PLEASE help lol Thanks in advance!

So my amprack is going to have 3 plexi windows. On the left and right are 2 big windows that show my amps, each with a blue cold cathode to provide lighting. Now in the middle, I'm going to have this smaller piece (big thanks to Mike aka azbass): I want to light up this piece with a different color using an LED. Now, I need yall's opinion/help. a. Should I even put an LED in this piece? b. If so, what exactly do I need to do? - how do I go about installing it? (plexi is 1/4" btw) - what power source should I use? - do I need to buy anything other than the LED like a resistor or anything? c. Should I go with a white, purple/UV LED, or any other color? I kinda don't …

What happens if you listen to your subs when your car is off? Will my battery die?

I recently purchased a fi bl 15 with the cooling option and was wondering what might be a good amp for it thats under 300 shipped. I was looking into the audioque 1200 but it seems as if not many people have experience with them. All sugestions are welcome. The sub is a dual 2 ohm and going into a ported enclosure around 3.5 cuft(tuning suggestions welcome as well) maybe bigger if i can fit it, theres not too much trunk room in my saturn sc2.

ok ive got 2 type r's for now, not forever. but i wanna get a good 1500 rms amp i can use for now and the future. so far im lookin at Audiopipe AP1500D Autotek Mean Machine 1500.1 US Amps MD2 Sundown SAE-1200 Hifonics Brutus 2000 Power Acoustik BAMF 4000 So far its kinda in that order, with sundown only bein that low bc its only 1200rms

I have borrowed a tektronix TAS 475 four channel oscilloscope. It dosnt have the probes with it, i need to get them. And i want to use this to set my amplifier. So how do i make sure im testing my amp at 1 ohms? And what probes should i get? Any suggestions or tips for this would be extremly helpful. Im going to be testing a ppi bk1300.1d

I am in the market for a double din tv/hu. I want to have full ipod/iphone control, navigation, bluetooth, 4-5V rca outputs and a decent eq / crossover network. Pioneer AVIC-Z120BT AVIC-Z120BT Kenwood DNX9960 DNX9960 Out of the two of these, what do you think has a better eq/crossover network? Also, if you thing there is a better option for a tv/hu, please chime in with your opinion.

Is it possible to hook up an alpine h701 to an eclipse 8053 say, through the aux input? Or anyway for that matter. I love my 8053 and really don't want to part with it if it's possible. At the same time though, I want an EQ at my finger tips via the h701 and c701. If I could hook that combo up to my 8053 and it work it'd be all good. thoughts?

I'd like some opinions on where I should have my voltage metered from. Currently it's hooked up to the battery so I know how much voltage is at my battery, but should I have it wired straight to the alternator or the amp? I'm stuck between battery and amp. I'd like to know voltage to my amp but I'd also like to know voltage to my battery. I guess I can buy another one. But what would you guys do? How do you have your volt meters set up? And do you guys have your power wire for your volt meter fused?

All the old guys in here will recognize the old beauties, I scored a Carver M-2060 and an M-4060. Running in perfect shape and loving every second of looking at them. Will be installing soon, but I'm trying to decide whether or not to run both amps to an active 3 way setup, or should I just run 2 way and use the 2 channel for my other car's front stage (passive), any opinions? Plans are a pair of DP 12's or 15's in the trunk of an 88 Cadillac Eldorado. Front stage is what I'm trying to decide on. Probably looking at Helix's 2 or 3 way Competition Series Components.

Does this make sense? Am I looking at this right? What I would like to do it setup my starter battery to an aux battery... I can connect the 2 negative terminals from both batteries okay, is it safe? Also, would I then still have to ground the aux battery to chassis? is it just good to have an extra ground off the aux battery? Could the amps be connected to the negative terminals of the aux battery if I have both terminals from the 2 batteries connected? Help me make sense of this or tell me how to do this better... Didn't think this was advanced so I made a generic post... thanks guys or does this work better?

Hello! This is my first post here. Crossing my fingers that I'm not breaking any forum rules. I have a 12 inch GCON ordered and the wait is killing me already. I've already purchased an amp and box for this sub and I'd like to have any willing opinions on my choices. The amp: http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_43132_Hifonics-GLX1800.1D.html The enclosure: http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_19279_Belva-Sub-Box-1SV12B-Belva.html A few questions: How did I do? Will this pound like crazy? How much impact will my smaller than suggest enclosure have on the sound? Ported good?How should I wire this beast-sub to this amp? (I'm thinking just running it at 650w @ 4ohms t…

So first if I have an 12" Xcon in a sealed 1.5 cb ft box where should I set the subsonic and lpf. And second what is the best deck with three sets of preouts for around 100$

im trying to find some parts for a JL 1000/1 if anyone can help me find where i need to go to get these parts that would be great... the part location on the board is d205

I was going to by the RF 3sixty.3 today, then noticed a JL clean sweep. From what I can gather the JL simply converts the signal, from a OEM head unit, to a flat signal then outputs to an amplifier. The RF360.3 will convert the signal, from a OEM head unit, to a user defined signal via the EQ functionality then outputs to an amplifier. If I purchase a RF360.3 how likely am I to give my amp, SAX100.4, a flat response? If I purchase a JL clean how likely am I to make that signal something other then flat? In other words for me, a person who doesn't compete but enjoys good quality, would I be better off with a JL or an RF? Also from what I have read, if I change the EQ…

ok ok so my very 1st amp was an alpine 1507 yea hot shit right, but i neva got to hook it up cuz my bro sold it, cuz i neva paid him back... but the guy he sold it to is selling it again.. and ha i'm buying it back for get this 80$ and the amp dam near cost 300$ soooooo, now i got a jbl 1200 and an alpine 1507.. for those that dont know thats 1200 watts+ about 1500 watts totalling at about 2800watts RMS but i only have one sub, and i need a new alt now that can pull about 300amps...

I currently have a PowerBass ASA 1500.1Dx amplifier and am thinking about upgrading to a Rockford Fosgate amplifier. I am running two kicker CVX 12's and am trying to decide between the T1000-1bdcp and the T1500-1bd. How much difference does "constant power" make? which one would run my subs with more spl?

I'm running 2 Sundown Audio sa15s and my amp has quit on me. I can get a sundown saz 1500 and a RF Power T1500-1bdcp for the same price. Which one would you guys recommend??

ok so im going to be using the Fi BTL 12" sub D2 in a 2.5 cu ft box ported to 34 hz. in the trunk of a chevy cavalier. i want to run in DB Drag so the power needs to be there when the car is off. so it will be at around 12-12.5 volts. the battery will be a Kinetic HC 2000 so my decision comes down to this. a brand new AQ3500 for 550$ or a refurbished SAZ-3000 with new heat sink and B-stock (not sure what that is) for 575$. i would like to know the pro and cons of each one. i know one uses a fan for cooling and one doesnt. is there an advantage to this? which one is more efficient at 1 ohm? which one will output more power at 12 volts? or any more things i should now a…