Amplifiers / Head Units / Processors / Electrical

2001 Chevy Impala. A friend's car. Aftermarket alternator rated at 220 max, 105 at idle. Overdrive pulley. Had his mechanic install the big 3 with 1/0. Optima Yellowtop 1050 amps. He only has one amp right now. 2 gauge wire running back to a JL 1000/1v2, 2 farad capacitor, and a 500 amp dry cell, running a JL 13W7. All of this was put in his car professionally... which could be good or bad. His headlights still dim, especially on the heavier individual beats. It's my understanding that the ground wires on these cars connect to a thin piece of metal that's simply folded onto another one, and therefore can't really flow that much current. ...meaning that running a dedic…

CAP50 - Alumapro 50 Farad Capacitor/Distribution Center Whats your oppinions on these? This guy I work with used to be a car audio installer, and we were talking today and he was swearing by this saying that is was better than a regular capacitor, better than a battery. He was saying it keeps your voltage at 14.4 no matter what. I was just wondering if anyone here has used them or has any first hand experience them offer up your oppinions. No I don't believe in capacitors Im not a cap fanatic or anything but he swore up and down it was different so I just figured it'd be worth it to get you guys oppinions.

So, i had my meter mounted on the left side of the pocket below the HU using velcro. well, that was late last year (cool weather), and now... Hot Weather = the glue/tape on the back of the Velcro melting. so, heres a few pics of my dash. there is nowhere to mount it that i can see. you can see where the trim piece around the pocket is a separate piecs. i have to take that off when i need to get to my HU. so i cant mount it there. ANY opinions wanted. thanks!

So I plug in the ground and it fine. Then I plug in the power and it starts to fry. The same thing happens in vise versa. What could becausing this? He has a 99 camry, his amp is a Hifonics Titan 750.2.

I have decided to get 2 10 inch FI SSD subs for my Toyo Camry. Im looking for a cost effective amp to push them close to there rms. I see it is rated 1000w rms but if I can save a few bucks and only get about 600w-800w to each I'd be happy

I am trying to run the auto-eq on my unit. I keep getting an error message for outside noise. I am running in 3-way active mode. Internal amp is turned off. I did reset the head unit and tried again and still had the same error. I am performing the auto-eq in a very quiet closed garage. Any suggestions or help is greatly appreciated.

Gonna buy a single 10" or 12" X or Icon, which ever pops up in the classifieds first. Will be in a .8-9 cuft fiberglass box sealed, polyfilled 1-2lb iirc. This is an under seat setup for a 4 door dodge pickup. I've seen the black ice has been proving a decent amp for the money. Just want to get any last opinions or reasons to not get it and go with something else. I don't want to spend more than $200-250 on an amp at the moment. Thanks!

my setup will be a 3way setup for my front stage consisting of; 8"(undecided) in doors 4" CDT gold 2way set in kicks 12" iCONs in trunk HU is kenwood DDX7017 (somethin like that) amps will all be kicker(undecided on models) so my question is; is the KX3 3-way active crossover from kicker a good option? if not what would be better? im debating on also putting a set of some 6.5 midbass drivers in the panel next to my door for a bit of rear fill, i know its not most peoples taste, but my 3way setup is worrying me about missing some fill. if i decided to use those rears would u just use the 2way crossover as well as the 3way for the front? is there anything im missing? thank…

im lookin at these models: ddx7019 ddx8019 kvt-719 kvt-819 Was wondering if anyone has any experience with any of those units?

I recently had been in the market for a DSP, and ran across this pice of equipment. The PPI DSP-88r and some input from fellow car audio nuts. Is it worth the $209 bucks. Pros. And cons. Thanks in advance

I love my 80prs as far as features go. Lots of control with it. Is there any double din touch screen hu's out there capable of processing? Looking to put one in my 03 Tahoe.

I was wondering if somebody with personal experience could tell me what they thought about the sd8k and 12k amps. Thanks

So something has gone wrong with my system and I am not sure exactly what it is... My setup is... -12" Icon -AQ 1200d; installed with 1/0 gauge wire and then 12 gauge for the speaker wire. -MY car is a 2000 Jetta VR6 and the alternator is stock.. it's either 90a or 120a but i'm not sure -I am using the AQ gain knob and I have a stinger volt meter.. I had everything installed at a local shop and it was VERY LOUD.. it was so loud that I was afraid to even push it for the little time it was working right, so I don't think any problems have been caused by listening to it too loud. About 6 days after it was installed I was driving around and I noticed on one song the bass was …

the amp arrived today, and I just fooled around with the buttons until I came up with something that sounded good. Between the Pioneer DEH-80etc. and this there's a lot more tweaking than in the old days! I have 4 sets of comps, one in each door so they're all identical. I also have a matching crossover box for each comp with sep. cables going to tweet & 6.5 mid. I do NOT want to bridge this. I want full control over all four comps to adjust for placement strength etc. But I will say this, after listening for an hour in my driveway the thing went into protection mode...already! At one point on the fader, fading to ALL front made the sound (except sub) vanish,…

a lot of people i have talked to on forums say to stay away from optima yellow tops, why?

is this amp realllllly under rated or sumthing 1.5k at 1ohm...for a 4k D? this isn't just for flakko lol anyone else can chime in it was just bothering me why its marked 4000d and its power is 1.5k

well i got a weller 140 watt soldering gun, and some rosin core solder. I tried to solder my 1/0 to a ring terminal for one of my grounds, but the solder just balls up and doesnt stick to the ring terminal. i dont think im doing it right. lol. any suggestions?

what would it take a Capacitor? Or another battery in series?

I have seen linked amplifiers, when connected both 1ohm by 1ohm make 2ohm. But is it possible to connect it parallel so both make 1x1=0.5ohm load at the end? Thanks.

well i toke my deck out the other day and when i put it back in iv got this nasty buzz like real nasty and it will change with engine rpm and there is also a bit of "engine wine" but the buzz is much louder and the really weired thing is if i change source or change channel or if i turn the volume from 0 to1 or from 1 to 0 i get a nasty thump kinda like a turn on thump but louder. I checked my amps grounds and they seam to be fine i was thinking maybe its my deck's grounds or maybe i broke a ground strap somewhere in the car im going to try changing them tomorrow my day off. And i also tried a different deck and it does the same thing but they are both pioneers and i hear…

What's the difference besides the price? I know that the Kolossus cable is supposed to be thicker than standard AWG but is it worth almost double the price? Referring to 1/0 awg wire with an Audioque AQ1200D. Wire would be for power/ground/big 3.

Well I have finally gotten around to using the MB Quart PXD-213, I have had them sealed in box brand new for 6 years now. Fantastic product just never used them. The question I am having is this and it may sound like a noob issue so please be gentle. I have a phenix gold 250.2 running them, have 12 gauge speaker wire in lengths less than 3 feet from amp to crossover, now I don't understand the installation diagram cause the damn thing is in german. or deutsh. so here is the issue, it says to run biwire from the amp into the low input and the high input, I have them wired just to the high input from amp and they sound phenomenal. now the issue is this at high volum…

I finally found it.. I just got a mint Sony Mobile ES Amp. I forgot how nice they were. will do my front stage justice def not xplode crap. 50x4. 1 ohm stable stereo. xm-5046. I'm pretty happy..

Oh my, what is the world coming to... http://www.edesignaudio.com/wire_cat.php?catid=48

Just as the topic states. For example, what would be the 4 ohm rating for a AB 1100.1 be? I know on their Website it says or shows what it does at 1 Ohm, but what would it do at 4 Ohms? Is there a Formula to this Madness or do you simply divide the RMS of the Amp by 4 to get the 4 Ohm Rating? I know I am going to get some Stupid answers, BUT I would really like to hear Educated and Smart Answers. Thank you in Advance my Fellow Bass Heads. Also if you know the 4 Ohm Ratings for your Amps for you Sub Stage, would you kindly list your info in this Format. Make: Model: 1 Ohm or whatever Ohm Load your Amp's RMS is rated at: The Amp's 4 Ohm RMS Rating: Again Thank you in Advanc…