Amplifiers / Head Units / Processors / Electrical

What does everyone think of a denon DCT-1? I know a friend who has one that i might be able to snag cheap!

Hey all. I was just wondering if there was a way to prevent my amp from clipping when I turn the bass up. Also could someone explain exactly what clipping is on a amp? My amp is a AQ2200 my head unit is a Clarion CZ200 my subs are Alpine Type R 15's and I have tsunami 1/0 gauge wiring and all stock electrical. My car is a 1977 oldsmobile delta 88. Oh and I do have a extra battery and I have checked my voltage and it stays around 13.20 when bass hits. Any help is very much appreciated. Thank you.

I will be installing this tomorrow.

I have a Alpine PDX 4.150 that I want to run my mids and highs with. I currently have 4 Alpine R 5x7's and would like to add an additional set of 1in dome tweeters on the pillars. How would I go about wiring that up? Thanks

Hi everyone, i was upgrading my cars electrical today (big 3, new 175a HO alt, Kinetik 1800w batt) and when I was done installing it and I turned over my car, I was running 13.8v. When I started playing some music, it sounded like it was quieter than when I had stock electrical. All the lights in my car were dimming and the volts were dropping as low as 10.5v. The alternator was charging real slow and having a lot or trouble keeping up. What could the problem be?? I am absolutely clueless on what it is so if anyone has a good suggestion, I would love to hear it. Thanks in advance

so my friend is wanting to get a batcap becuase he heard it will help out his electrical ALOT. what do yall think about it? ever had one, used one.. etc

This is the Orion HCCA-D5000 Output Power at 13.8V: 1 x 1000W @ 4 ohms 1 x 1600W @ 2 ohms 1 x 2500W @ 1 ohm Dimension: 22.8

So this is just some crappy system that I bought from my friend cuz he needed money. Its a Sony Xplod GTR2022 amp with 2 Kenwood 12s. After using it in my car for a few weeks the amp decides to go into protect mode. So I turned off my car and took a look at the amp and it looks like my ground wire fell out of the amp when I was driving. So i connect the ground back up and make sure everything is all hooked up right and started driving again. Here is where the problem is, the amp and subs are fine until I turn the volume up to 14 then the amp goes into protect mode and the subs of course cut out. Now I usually had the volume up to about 36 on the regular. Since its Arizon…

i had needed to get guided in the right direction on purchasing an h/0 alternator. just need to know how big of an alt i need to get to run 4000 rms (2 subs) or 2000rms (1 sub) thanks!!!!

I have everything connected right on my amp but it is going to protect mode!! I’ve disconnected everything and connected everything back but still is in protect mode. I have a loc running to my amp on my stock boss radio. Can anyone let me know what am I doing wrong. Also if I connect the remote wire to the amp and conect the battery wire and remote together also my amp turns on idk if that a bad thing or a good thing. Fyi it was working before and one day in the am everything stop working.

So sonic electronix has a JVC KW-NX7000 open box for $549 with free shipping My link Its got most of the stuff I want(minus bluetooth) My orginal plan was to get the KEnwood Dnx-6140. Its $779 after shipping. I like the screen on the jvc better, but I'm fond of the kenwoods. I know how the bypass works on the kenwood, but not sure how to do it on the jvc, I love the way kewoods work with ipod and have no idea how the jvc works(do you have to have special cable or can you use the apple one?) I have $605 in savings and could order the JVC today if I wanted. If I wait, it will take me about a month to get the extra $180 or so for the KEnwood. Thanx in advance. And again, ti…

Gain matching two sub amps... as easy as eyeballing it, right? If not.. details?

Need suggestions for my Evo X. Double Din suggestions. Less than $600

I just bought a 2011 Mazda 3 and I am getting a HU but I need help on which one would be the best bang for my buck. Now I'm not looking for something cheap quality, but something hopefully below $250 if it's a single din and if it's a double, then below $400 if possible. What my main concerns in a HU are is that it has an AUX in, 4V or higher, subwoofer, preferably lots of options to customize my speakers sounds, such as EQ, Bass, Treble, and all that jazz. If I do get a double din, it should fit in this, shouldn't it? http://consumerguideauto.howstuffworks.com/2010-mazda-3-4dr-sdn-auto-i-touring-photos.htm?photo=1745325&perspective=interior Features which I would re…

In the market for one. so far have looked into db, irragi, cbr electronics, nations, mechman, and just recently spring hill. I've heard of people having issues with mechman and irragi but after doing some reading there could be other reasons why their units failed. Any input on any of these? right now I'm leaning more towards spring hill autoelectric simply because they offer more options for upgrading ie i can order just the parts i need and upgrade the alternator myself and save $100+ that and their customer service has been very responsive about answering my thousand questions. even on the weekend which i thought odd... Anyone have any dealings with them either??

hey everyone! Sorry for another "Vs." thread, but i would deeply appreciate any help I dont know which amp to get? the memphis prd 1000.1 or the sundown 1000D, what are some pros and cons of each amp, and what amp will suit me best with a FI Q12 with a 2007 honda accord with stock power Thanks

Sooooo I feel like a total noob lol. Most amps that can be strapped have a master/slave switch. My atomic AT3000.1s do not. But they are strappable. Now I assume these strap like a saz3000 due to being almost exactly the same amp. Don't post up pointing out differences or bashing my shit. These amps are badass. From what I can see, saz3000 amps do not have a master/slave switch either. Referring to this thread the layout of my atomics are exactly the same minus the fuses of course. On the control/RCA side my amps are exactly the same. So I guess they automatically switch when strapped? Or is there a hidden switch somewhere?

so i just replaced my battery two days ago and the battery is already swelling up the next day and today not much has changed. my first guess was heat and still might be, one other info is that the battery is loose not tied down since the bar or battery holding thing that goes across it was to tall to hold the battery in place. so the battery is loose and able to move should i get a new one and tie it down. this battery is the second one and if i replace it it will be the third one from them battery: duralast platinum 34r car toyota camry alt: 130amp from a 2003 highlander(original stock 80 amps)

So my amprack is going to have 3 plexi windows. On the left and right are 2 big windows that show my amps, each with a blue cold cathode to provide lighting. Now in the middle, I'm going to have this smaller piece (big thanks to Mike aka azbass): I want to light up this piece with a different color using an LED. Now, I need yall's opinion/help. a. Should I even put an LED in this piece? b. If so, what exactly do I need to do? - how do I go about installing it? (plexi is 1/4" btw) - what power source should I use? - do I need to buy anything other than the LED like a resistor or anything? c. Should I go with a white, purple/UV LED, or any other color? I kinda don't …

I recently did a install using a audiopipe ap3001d (older 16volt discontinued model) on two 15" kicker l7's in a seald enclosure 1.5cuft. each. The amp was shocking strong. But on to my question , has anyone dealt with the audiopipe apsm 1500 mono block? And if so do you think it would be to much for my two first gen. Dcon 12's in 1.2cuft sealed inclosures? And ps. can a box from sketch up be uploaded on the site? If so how? Thanks for all help.

Well the title pretty much says it all. I am looking for an amplifier that pushes approximately 1500 watts at 1.5 ohms. My price limit is 400 bucks, maybe 450 if it was really worth it, but if it can be a lot lower, awesome.

Hey I just made an all new setup in my car. I have 2 skar audip vvx 12s in a 3.7 ft box tuned to 34 hz running off a crescendo bc2k. I have a 100 amp alt not sure if its stock and a northstar agm battery. its pretty much an xs3400. I aslo hace the big 3 done in 1/0 gauge. The setup is alright but it just doesn't slam as hard as I expected. I used to run one of the vvx 12s on a kicker zx1000.1 with the gajn and bass boost like 3/4 up and bassboost and loudness on on my deck and it would slam just as hard as these do now. Iy did burn the voice coil after about 2-3 months though so I learned my lesson about all yhose settings and clipping. Now I just use the bass knob wit…

ok everyone, i have a 02 nissan with a fi bl 18 running on a zeus 3000 watt i have the amp turned down barely over half right now i want to upgrade my eletrical so i can turn my amp up i have about 300 dollars right now what is the first thing i need to get?

https://www.amazon.com/Android-Lollipop-1024x600-Mitsubishi-Bluetooth/dp/B0153N4EIC

which is better and why? Looking for cleanest power possible for $150usd. I want something between 70-80wrms 4 channel at 4 ohms. Looking at Orion 4004, pg octane r 80x4 or avionix tsunami db4440.