Amplifiers / Head Units / Processors / Electrical

Alright, I'm sort of confused, and have spent hours/Days/weeks trying to figure this all out, but I'm sort of just in between ideas at the moment. I was told you guys were the best, and so I've come here! If you have any ideas, any help would greatly be appreciated. and I've tried to help out as much as I can in terms of information.. So essentially I'm at the stage where I already have; HU - AVIC-F910BT (http://www.pioneer.eu/eur/products/archive/AVIC-F910BT/page.html) Which for quick reference has Front, Rear and Sub pre-outs. 6x9's - JL C2-690TX (http://www.elite-electronics.com.au/In-Car_Entertainment/Speakers/Rear_Speakers/JL_Audio_C2-690TX_6x9_Speakers#.UgkNupIy1…

I tuned it by ear, but it took a little extra time due to the gain knob being maxed out and still not pushing it's full potential out, so I turned up the bass knob slightly to a point where I saw stress. Now, the sub gets slightly warm after 15 minutes of full tilt, but it's not more then a few degrees higher off the ambient temperature. Just wanting to make sure there's nothing bad going on. Doing the big 3 in days coming, thanks.

hi, i have an alpine 9887 hu and also a sax100.4 and a 100.2 and here is what i want to do. an active front stage using the sax100.4 as the processor not the 9887 and have 2 eu700 in the back off of the sax100.2 with a 400 hz lpf for midbass ( already have them so no changing of that) and i need to know would i set the crossovers on the 9887 as a 2.2 3way or a 4.2 system since u have to take out the unit and move the slide i would rather ask then experiment since it is a pita to take out the head unit in my car. and also would it be a l=r or l/r and also i am going to be having subs too that is why the lpf is kinda of high.

im trying to find some parts for a JL 1000/1 if anyone can help me find where i need to go to get these parts that would be great... the part location on the board is d205

ok so my friend needs another battery terminal that has 2 1/0 openings. his other one for the positive has a 1/0 4/0 and 2 8/0's anybody know where i can get one with 2 1/0 guage inputs

My Amp is Flickering back and forth out of protect and power..Ive changed the fuses..I have changed the power wire connenction and all...I'm outta Suggestions..Need Help Bad

System consists of the following: • 2010 and up Camaro drivers side large stealth enclosure from Subthump • Knukonceptz 4AWG wiring and interconnects and speaker wire • MTX RE-Q • Subthump T-Harness (used so that we DO NOT splice into the factory wiring) • 12" Fi Q (dual 2 ohm wired to 4 ohms w/ all options and high qts) • ZED Audio Kronos bridged @ 4 ohm (1000rms) There are a couple things that seem to be off. For one, we are using the factory headunit and thought that the RE-Q would be perfect because of the bass restoration, and the fact that the Kronos needs unbalanced grounded preouts (as said by Steve from ZED). Now, due to the fact we havent installed any bass blo…

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I currently drive a 2013 Dodge Avenger R/T with the 3.6liter V6 and I have 2 JL 13w7's, 2 HD1200/1's, Alpine 137bt HU, with Alpine 200watt power pack running JL C2 61/2's in front and C2 6x9's in rear and stock 31/2's in my dash and I also have a audio 1000 watt capable battery in my trunk wired in with the factory batt. As of right now I'm only running 1 sub and 1 amp and I wandering what kind of electrical upgrades I would need to run both sets for 2600watts that's 2 amps and the power pack together. I'm gonna do the big 3 and add another 1000 watt capable battery, do you guys think this would be enough, or would I need a high output alternator as well. I pretty sure …

I have an alpine mrv850d. 2ohm stable, but i just ordered a pair of d4 subs. so i can run them at 1 or 4. what will happen if i run at 1ohm? i know i ran my hifonics goliath and ED 9.1 below 1ohm with no problems. randomly my 9.1 would go into protect but if i shut it off for a second it was fine. but ive never owned a Mainstream amp like alpine

Recently got the 360.3. I was reading some older threads found on google and I noticed a couple of posts mentioned that once you get the 360 setup and tweaked that your supposed to keep your amp gain down and you don't have to do any further adjustments. I think because of the 360's output somehow?....I just wanted some clarification on this.

i just installed an excess amperage 300 amp alternator ... for some reason something is not working correctly ... i am only getting 12.5 volts and it drops a tad to 12.4 when i rev it up ... what is going on ... the stock alt was connected to the fuse panel but i ran the new wire to the battery and fuse pannel to the battery

I never got around to finishing the system in the last truck but this one will be different, dammit. Anyway... New truck is an F-150 Supercrew. The H/U is already installed, Kenwood DNX-8120. It has some limited processing capability but I doubt that I'll use much of it. I have an Altomobile Drive 30 for processing the front stage, I'll replace it with a MS-8 if I decide that it isn't getting the job done from a noise perspective. Front is going to be 3-way active, HAT Legatia 3s and 1s in the kicks and some midbasses in the doors. I have a pair of CDT ES-06+ woofer that may go there or I might order a pair of Dayton 6s for each door. The rear will have a decent pa…

So I decided to finally put my two L78's (4 ohm) to use on my new blazer rs. The thing is that im using a shitty "2500 watt" power acoustik amp. What amp should I get? Ported box. Under $300 because it's pretty rough out there these times around. I also have the lc2i installed... if that makes a difference. Thanks!

it was sounding to good to be true. didn't know if these amps are ok. wanting to put it on 2 l7 kicker 15. thanks. saw it on on line car stereo.com

hey everyone, so today i went to harbor freight tools, got a DMM on sale for 3.00 dollars, the name brand was cen-tech, heres the link CEN-TECH MULIMETER so anyways i got home, logged on, looked on the stickies for the Setting gain with DMM tut and i done everything i was suppose to, minimized HU Settings,bass,treble,etc, used a 50 hz tone 0 db, and when i connected the DMM to the speaker output with no load, i had to set the gain almost at 3/4 to get my voltage i have a hifonics bxi 1200 watt amp at 1 ohm load on 2 12" pioneer 308D4 rated at 400 rms per sub HU is kenwood MPC205, 2 volts at sub pre-out 1200 wrms at 1 ohm load so 34.64 Volts is what im striving for on my d…

I need some help with understanding the xover frequency for the tweeter and the frequencies for the woofer part of the component set. There is high pass choice on my amp of 1.8K,4K, 80, 115, 360. Low pass 1.8K, 4K, 80K,115K, 360 I am having really time understanding this... Please advice me.

Hey i was wondering about this amp on ebay http://viewitem.eim.ebay.no/BOSS-AUDIO-PH2600-CAR-AMP-AMPLIFIER-STEREOMONO-1200W/330605297743/item but do i get a aoutput of 1200 watts. i am going to youse it on a duble coil sub 1200w 4 ohms.

My friend is planning to buy 1 RE 12" from the RE gruop buy, and i was wondering what amp will i need to power one of these? how much watts do i need for these subs?

I don't know if this is old news or not but i just stumbled across this so it might be helpful for others. I'm assuming this will work with all other car dvd players that are wired to where you must be in park and have the hand brake applied twice before video will appear. OK, this is what it can do- The purpose of the safety feature is to not show video while in drive.... however, a glitch in my Alpine allows to show video while i'm driving and only shuts it off when the brake is pressed so for road trips, , you need not a video bypass. What i did- While i was in a stopped position, you could even consider just starting the car a stopped position because you only need t…

Is the american bass vfl 1000.1 stable at 1ohm?

Are the zapco SP7-SL and arc audio PEQ 1/2 din mountable, as in can I mount them under my denon HU in my 1 1/2 din dash? If so, how would I go bout doing this? Just take out the pocket and slide in the eq?

yeah, i know, not the best amp by far, but my cousin's truck go broken into, and his audison srx3 will be out of the picture for a little while. we have a powerbass asa 400.4 sitting around, and want to use it until we can get a new audison. now, for the big question... does anyone know if the powerbass in tri-mode capable/stable? we want to use channels 1 and 2 for the comps, and bridge 3 and 4 for a sub. a 15" dayton titanic mk III will replace the 12" type r that was in there, although a type r will be back again... probably. full system rundown 2000 chevy s10 ext cab clarion dxz775usb hu audison srx3... now gone diamond d6 comps in the doors, textile tweets, +3 to…

I've decided that I would like to put two 10" dcons in my car this spring. Im trying to find an amp that will power them well without spending tons of money. I came across this MB Quart REF 800.1 for $135. Its stable down to 1 ohm and is cea complient. Is this too good to be true? I hear people hate on maxxsonics but it has all the features im looking for. Even if the numbers were skewed a bit I would still only need about 600w rms. http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_25536_MB-Quart-REF1.800-REF-1.800.html

Well, instead of posting all this in the build log, i'll just post it here because i have a question anyways. I have\had 2 of these amps strapped together. When i first strapped them up, after several minutes, the slave went up in smoke. It was concluded that the input stage on the amp got damaged. There was no audio coming through either amp when i first tried using these. I tried using just the master. No signal at the time until i unplugged the rcas from the HU then plugged em back in... been working ever since, odd but no probs now. Got the slave amp back in and i did not have any subs hooked up to em when i had em strapped again but the slave amp went up in smoke …