Amplifiers / Head Units / Processors / Electrical

Which one sounds the best to you? No dvd players or navigation systems... just regular 1/2 din cd players

Vehicle: 2003 Chevy Tahoe 5.3L Stock alt size is 130 I believe. What size alt would you guys recommend to successfully push my Fi BTL N2 with the AQ2200D? Is a HO alt even necessary for the system?

I am planning my first real DIY build and have some questions regarding the wiring... Before I ask, here is my planned setup: Power/Wiring -Stock Battery -Stock Alternator -Big 3 upgrade to all 1/0 gauge wires -300A Fuse -12 gauge speaker wires for the subs Sub/Amp -Fi SSD 15" wired at 1ohm -Audioque AQ1200D (1200rms@1ohm) (40A x3 fuses, 120A total) (4 gauge connectors) 1) Will doing the big 3 upgrade be sufficient enough for my battery and alternator for this system? If not, what else should I look in to? 2) Should I hook up the amp w/ 4 gauge wiring or use 1/0? I would prefer to use 1/0 but the connectors are 4, is there a solution to this? Is 4 gauge sufficient for th…

well here are some gut shots of my new mids and highs amp. this will be part of an active two way front stage.

well I think I have desided to keep my factory HU (so I can use the steering wheel controls) any thoughts on either piece? http://mobileaudiocontrol.com/product.asp?...249&l1=5249&l2= http://jlaudio.com/press/CleanSweep05.html I am kinda stumped on what to use----

i have a client with a 6 battery bank in the bed and dual factory battery locations up front. he has 2 alternators and each alternator is going to its side battery so the driver side alt is going to the driver side battery and passenger alt going to the passenger side battery. i dont know - does having 2 point of voltage input going to two different batteries in an electrical system present any kind of issue? e.g. should these alternators be rewired to both go to a single positive terminal on one battery or is status quoe good enough? we are pushing close to 1200A at full tilt and are considering a 3rd alternator in an after market bracket (current two are in factory loc…

Gain matching two sub amps... as easy as eyeballing it, right? If not.. details?

Just wondering what people are pushing with audiopipe amps?

My amp is currently mounted on top of my sub box at the moment. How can I keep the screws (drywall) from coming loose or snapping off? What kind of screws or nuts and bolts do you guys recommend? Eventually I will mount the amp somewhere else but for now that's where it will stay.

my 4 channel HK598 blew. im not exactly sure what the problem is, but its not in protect, it powers on, but no music...something prally broke becuase of the voltage drop. i put the powerbass xa3000d in....as soon as the bass hits, bam, voltage = 8v! this is on the stock electrical though. the powerbass is holding up like a champ, i have it off now though til i get home so i can put my hc2400 in after work, hopefully thatll help....i also emailed EA about an alternator. i really hope the hc2400 helps though in retaining power to at least 12v while the alt can recharge it....becuase right now the voltage drop is just ridiculous. its loud though. 15" treo ssx in like 4 cube…

guys what do you think between these two companies when it comes to there big amps?

In probably a month or so I will be purchasing 2 sundown SA 12s, and I'm trying to figure out which amp would be best for the subs any suggestions would be appreciated. -Hifonics brx 1600.1D -Hifonics Zrx 1800.1D -Audiopipe AP 1500

Which of these amps do you guys think is the better buy? efficiency, output build quality, and customer service..and is there any other amp that compare? i know sq is about to release the 4500 but after reading a couple threads about them they put out power just not clean power

Greetings all, it's certainly been a while. Right now I'm leaning towards using a Kicker Comp RT (12") in my Tundra CrewMax (most likely in the box by Kicker). It's rated at 800 RMS (1600 Peak) and I am looking (as most of us are) for a quality, budget amp to power this. Any recommendations? I've come across Planet Audio, Power Acoustik, and a few other brands that seem reasonably priced. Also, any experience with this sub or setup? Many thanks.

So I finally got my 200a alt installed, but something odd happened when bumping now, I get more dimming, occasionally the amp protects for a moment then cut back on, but my battery voltage is on average higher. I was wondering if the former was due to me having only done the big two, as I have direct power and ground lines; the other, I mean, I think I had it gained a little high and now that it has what it needs, it's clipping like crazy trying to balance with the Sony signal. The hu is becoming a massive headache in that aspect. I lowered the gain, but I really want to be able to run my heat lights and stereo without issue =[ I do have only a single battery for now, I'…

I think my current wire from the alt is 8 gauge. It goes into a solenoid or something before the wire goes to the battery. I can't upgrade the wiring to 1/0 straight from the alternator to battery. Since my alternator is placed in the middle side of the engine. I tried getting to it but is impossible. Gotta pull the engine up or take most of the parts off it. So frustrating. Would it matter much about the alternator to batt wire size? Since the output on the alt isn't switched I'm just running stock alt.

Does anyone know where i can get a HO Alternator for a 99 dodge durango with 5.2 magnum engine? And what about bypassing the ECU Regulator in this Chrysler work of engineering genius?

has anyone ever used them I have 2 of them that rest at 13v and are 210ah a piece just wondering

What is a good 1/0 ofc wire that is comparable to sky high car audio wire

Going to buy another battery for my Durango. It will be in the back with my amps. I already have a die hard platinum under hood and a small stinger in rear. My question is-is there any specific group I should buy for the back, or just the biggest battery I can fit back there?

I was just wondering if this is bad for my car. I have two sa 12s and a hifonics BE2500.240a mechman alternator, big 3, zapper d2400 and a xp750. When I was playing Elie Gouldings "High for this" decaf after the bass drop my voltage shot up to 16.4 Is there something I should do to.regulate it? Or will it be.fine if it happens again?

Long story short, I'm keeping the factory Nav/HDD/BLUETOOTH/IOD/DVD/MP3 head unit in my '11 Ram. I installed a PAC OEM-1 (OEM-CHR3) for the plug and play ease plus remote turn on from the can bus system. My question is on setting the output levels of the OEM-1. I installed the OEM-1 and just turned all four outputs on the LOC all the way up. Is this correct? Is there any reason I wouldn't want them all the way up to feed the amplifiers the highest signal level?

I need some advice on how to tune my system. I've got the following...yes they are a bit old but in great condition. Alpine CDA-7844 SoundsStream Rubicon 404 and 702 amps MB Quart 6.5" components with MusiComp crossover MB Quart 2 ways with regular crossover for rear. The 404 is driving the mids/highs and the 702 is hooked up and ready for when I buy a sub. My question is how do I got about figuring out what to set the gains at? Also do I need to set the 404 to high pass and 702 to lowpass? If so, what frequency should I set them each at? The HU has a setting for the "bass control center frequency". I can choose 60, 70, 80 100hz. Default is 100. Not sure if I shou…

I have a Hifonics XX-Colossus II, would the new Hifonics Colossus be better or worse? Mine: http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_5382_Hifonics-XX-Colossus-II.html The new one: http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_32990_Hifonics-Colossus.html I noticed the new one's CEA-2006 compliant.

I will be getting a new car soon. I honestly dont want to use my current 4 gauge as it limits me to <1300rms I want to go straight to zero gauge so I dont have to worry about the wire in the future. I wanted to go for Kicker, but wire is wire and Knukonceptz seems to have a good reputation here and seems to be cheaper. I also heard about Welding Supplies, they seem like another good option. However, I recently read a thread were one of the wires (dont know if Knukonceptz or Welding) was made of CCA (copper covered aluminum I believe). All I remember was that CCA wire should be avoided. So now I ask, which one is the one to go for? I really cant make a mistake since I'l…