Amplifiers / Head Units / Processors / Electrical

so my friend picked up a mechman 220 for his dodge avenger 2012. with his factory alternator he had some decent dimming of lights and gauges even when cruising down the road. with his mechman he says his voltage will drop to 11.2V on the alternator stud and his car has shut off and restarted itself during idle with the mechman but never with his factory alt. he used an amp meter to find out he has about 65A at idle coming from the alt under load. first off how accurate is that measurement? secondly what steps should one take to isolate the alternator vs a ground or other issue in the system? his system power is about 2KW with a JL 5 channel powering rainbow door compon…

I have a 1997 jeep wrangler, the stock alt makes about 90amps and idles at 14v without amps connected. If I put a h/o alt 200amp, at idle what would my voltage be without amps connected? I'm assuming its going to vary from one vehicle to another, but stock alt 90amps = 14v idle, so 200amps = 14.5v? 15v? Is there any way for me to estimate the voltage at idle?

I currently have an mb quart dsc 4125 for 2 peerless sls 8's(does 500 x 2 bridged) sundown 100.4(tang bang mids & alpine tweets) and a sundown 3000 for 2 xcon's. I was doing some measurements in the trunk of my acura tl while laying down deadening and there's no way to fit those 3 amps, 4 cube box, and a big battery so i need smaller footprint amps. what i need is 1 4 channel that can do 300+ bridged @ 4 ohms(pdx is an option, though i'd like something smaller) 1 4 channel that can do 100-125 x 4 @ 4 ohms(may pick up an arc audio mini) 1 mono amp that can do 3000-3300 @ 1 ohm

I would like some input on 5 channel amps from - Polk Audio PA1100.5 PowerBass ASA 1100.5x Infinity KAPPA FIVE Kicker 08ZX700.5 Hifonics ZXi 8010 US AMPS AX 5600 Budget $300.00 to $400.00 My Alpine PDX-5 is clean sounding, just lacking in the thump dept. I sold my old Alpine F353 as it was getting old and I wanted more thump. My system is Alpine 9813 HU, Alpine PDX-5 amp, Polk DB 6.75 components,Polk DB coaxails 4x6 rears, 2-10" Polk MOMO subs @ 2ohm, in a down firing box in a 98 GMC ext cab truck. 120 amp alternator, large conventional battery, 1frad cap, 8 ga power wire.

I recently installed a Pioneer P4300DVD doubled-in deck in my truck and just have a few questions about some settings. 1. What should my sub frequency be set at on the deck (it goes up to like 120hz I think)? 2. What should my HPF be set at on the deck? 3. Any tips on tuning the Custom Equalizer settings? Just some info on my system I will try to give the whole run down in case its needed. Pioneer P4300DVD deck Boston S85 5x7 speakers front and rear ^Kicker ZX200.4 SSA XCON 15 ^Audioque 2200D Stock Alternator No Extra Batteries

I'm currently helping a friend purchase the rest of his setup for his Durango. He bought my 12" Cerwin-Vega! Vmax D2 Driver. It is in a 2.5cu ft. box (ported). Memphis Ampl That is the amp he is going to buy. 500RMS at 1 ohm. Class D Question is: Run 4 gauge or 2 gauge? And he has a stock deck, so I will need a LOC, where is a good place to purchase them, and i would need a write up on how to wire one in, along with a source for the remote. Final: Woofersetc is a good site to order from right? I've known quite a few people that have ordered from there without problems

I currently have a jvc HU and it only has one rca. i have both rca cables wired to my 2 channel amp to my current subs, I want to install a second amp for my front door speakers. I just ordered new subs and a amp from IA. So it will be two death row's running on a 20.1 and a power acoustik 2 channel amp for my doors. So how would I do this or do I need a new head unit?

Never ran active in my life so I have some questions Amp is a SAX-100.4 Comps are the Cresendo CCX65. They are rated at 100 rms a side. Doing this passive is easy, but I am wondering how to split the power levels between the mids and the high's. 50/50? 75/25? Or even 99/1? (heard the tweeters are kinda bright lol) When setting gains if I want say 75 watts on the rear channels I'd play 1000hz test tone. Hook the dmm to 1 rear channel and turn the gain till the dmm reads 17.32 volts correct? So that should be 75 watts per channel. ( 4 ohm load ) I plan on crossing the mids and highs at 3000hz, so should I still use the 1000hz test for setting the gains on the highs respect…

should i trade my eclipse cd7200 mk ii for the alpine cda 117. what do you guys think? far as sq which one is better. and i know eclipse is out of business. thanks

So I inherited this situation but I'm too deep now to give up. From what I understand, there was one `1200 watt audio pipe hooked up in dudes car. He blew that one. Then he put 2 more in and blew both of them immediately I believe. Seems like a short somewhere in his vehicle to me but I'm no expert. So I went through and tested all the transistors and found multiple output mosfetts to be blown on all 3 amps. I pieced enough "good" irf640 mosfetts together to hopefully make a working unit but I have a short someoene because It bounces bavck from protesct to power. Can anyone help me with this?I have more hours in troubleshooting these things than I care to admit. …

Ive been looking at some car audio companies that make very good quality gear. Ive noticed that the majority of them have caps for sale. Now, you think from reading all this stuff about them, they are bad ect ect that these high end companies wouldnt sell them. But there must be a reason. Just about every amp out there is filled with them. So why not add another ? Is a 1 farad cap better than 2 0.5 farad caps ? What about cap banks, 30, 40 farads ? Im, not about to go out and buy one I didnt bother posting this on ca.com because i know everyone will say caps are junk blah blah blah. Ive read that they can be helpful if your electrical system is up to par ( mine is )

Tested voltage drop with most accessories off last night. At idle the car rests at 13.9x, With a variety of music and an Iasca test disc, at the loudest volume i can play the factory stereo at while still sounding decent, the lowest i got it to drop was 12.69, it was mostly between 12.7xx and 12.9 on HARD hits. Electrical system is stock, battery, alt, etc, all stock, no cap/ 2nd battery, extra 0wag ground under hood to battery, extra 4awg ground running to rear of the car where it joins the 1/0 that goes into my amp. Amp is an MTX 81000d running @ 2ohms, Rated 1krms @ 12.5 volts, most people get between 12xx and 14xx on their birth sheets at that voltage. I was just surp…

Does anybody have any experience with them? Do they do rated power? I have heard rumors, but no proof, about the earlier models not making rated power. How reliable and durable are they? I have never used Hifonics so I am a little curious, I am thinking about getting 2 of them.

Alright this is probably a dumb question but im really new to car audio and want to make sure i dont mess anything up, especially when im working with so much expensive equipment. I have a sundown SAX-50.4 that i plan to power my Morel tempo6 2-way component speakers. I'm wondering what the best way to wire to my crossovers would be. Im confused because i have the 4 channels but only 2 crossovers, so would i bridge them? and how would i do that correctly so i keep the left and right signals? sorry if this doesnt make sense, im sick and on alot of medication

I'm still not getting the full output of my sub (BL 12), most likely because of low/bad signals from the LOC crudely tapped into the rear speakers at the moment. But I would like to get a new head unit that will give me nice clean signals straight from the head unit. I've narrowed it down to these two (although I'm open for suggestions, like always). I've read on the Steve Meade Forums that this line of the Pioneer head unit was great. But the Kenwood seems very similar. I would like to hear some opinions. http://www.crutchfield.com/s_130P6200BT/Pioneer-DEH-P6200BT.html?tp=5684 http://www.crutchfield.com/s_113KDCX794/Kenwood-Excelon-KDC-X794.html?tp=5684

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Hey i was wondering about this amp on ebay http://viewitem.eim.ebay.no/BOSS-AUDIO-PH2600-CAR-AMP-AMPLIFIER-STEREOMONO-1200W/330605297743/item but do i get a aoutput of 1200 watts. i am going to youse it on a duble coil sub 1200w 4 ohms.

One of 2 alts running/being clamped. Real time, on music (skip to 50s or so,.. canyon is a bitch to drive this hunk of shit, and vid, and not kill anyone.,..,..)

I tuned it by ear, but it took a little extra time due to the gain knob being maxed out and still not pushing it's full potential out, so I turned up the bass knob slightly to a point where I saw stress. Now, the sub gets slightly warm after 15 minutes of full tilt, but it's not more then a few degrees higher off the ambient temperature. Just wanting to make sure there's nothing bad going on. Doing the big 3 in days coming, thanks.

Ok so I'm staring to piece together and figure out what I need for my electrical pieces.. I will have a second battery in the rear. running two amps. Sub amp -T1500-1bdCP Front Stage amp is undecided at the moment. I have 1/0 Gauge OFC running to the back. probably ~15ft run. My plan is. Battery up front + (in line fuse)>>>>> (inline fuse) Battery Rear Positive + Ground up front will be left alone. Ground in the rear will be placed in the factory installed Ground fused to the body in the trunk. For the amps.... Running from rear battery ----- Short zero gauge OFC to a fused distribution block >>>>From the fused …

I found this amp while searching for a good cheap amp. I know that if I spend the extra ($400) I can get a good amp, but this one sure looks like a RF T1000.1. Even if it isn't, does this look like an amp that could give that 1700 watts at 1 ohm? http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_8403_K...KX1-3000D.html#

i have a client with a 6 battery bank in the bed and dual factory battery locations up front. he has 2 alternators and each alternator is going to its side battery so the driver side alt is going to the driver side battery and passenger alt going to the passenger side battery. i dont know - does having 2 point of voltage input going to two different batteries in an electrical system present any kind of issue? e.g. should these alternators be rewired to both go to a single positive terminal on one battery or is status quoe good enough? we are pushing close to 1200A at full tilt and are considering a 3rd alternator in an after market bracket (current two are in factory loc…

Well, got a new Kenwood KDC X794 headunit, set my gains with a dmm (BL 12 btw, powered by a SAE 1200d) to 34v using the gain setting formula here in the forum. And I still don't think my sub is reaching potential. At BEST I get an inch of excursion, and almost every video of other BL 12's ive seen do better than this. I don't think the problem is a LACK of electrical, since my lights dim hardly at all and my voltage never drops below 13.5 (stock electric). But I think there could be a bottleneck somewhere in the electrical. Could this be the problem? I've done the Big 3. I'm not sure what else it could be.

In probably a month or so I will be purchasing 2 sundown SA 12s, and I'm trying to figure out which amp would be best for the subs any suggestions would be appreciated. -Hifonics brx 1600.1D -Hifonics Zrx 1800.1D -Audiopipe AP 1500

I think my current wire from the alt is 8 gauge. It goes into a solenoid or something before the wire goes to the battery. I can't upgrade the wiring to 1/0 straight from the alternator to battery. Since my alternator is placed in the middle side of the engine. I tried getting to it but is impossible. Gotta pull the engine up or take most of the parts off it. So frustrating. Would it matter much about the alternator to batt wire size? Since the output on the alt isn't switched I'm just running stock alt.