Amplifiers / Head Units / Processors / Electrical

Just wondering what people are pushing with audiopipe amps?

Is the american bass vfl 1000.1 stable at 1ohm?

i have a 2003 LincolTC, my system is a Soundqubed HDS315-D2 1200RMS powered by an Orion cobalt 2500.1D 1ohm stable amp, which is what i have it wired to. Ive only got 4ga 100% OFC, not that cheap oxidizing CCA junk, ran as power & ground which Im sure you'll all say thats too low ga. of wire which i already know & agree on that fact, just my financial circumstances are unable to afford me the luxuries of a larger ga considering I already owned the 4ga wire i used lol & considering the 15'+ of 0/1 or 0/2 ga OFC i would need for the length of my boat of a car i am just going to stick it out w/ what i got for now cuz i wont run that cheap cca crap. so an…

I am planning my first real DIY build and have some questions regarding the wiring... Before I ask, here is my planned setup: Power/Wiring -Stock Battery -Stock Alternator -Big 3 upgrade to all 1/0 gauge wires -300A Fuse -12 gauge speaker wires for the subs Sub/Amp -Fi SSD 15" wired at 1ohm -Audioque AQ1200D (1200rms@1ohm) (40A x3 fuses, 120A total) (4 gauge connectors) 1) Will doing the big 3 upgrade be sufficient enough for my battery and alternator for this system? If not, what else should I look in to? 2) Should I hook up the amp w/ 4 gauge wiring or use 1/0? I would prefer to use 1/0 but the connectors are 4, is there a solution to this? Is 4 gauge sufficient for th…

What do you guys think of this amp? I saw a topic over at SMD and it didn't seem bad at all. I can get it for a REALLY cheap price, like, if it puts out even 3000 watts rms, then it is still worth it. It doesn't look too bad imo. And, compared to the Crunch GP3000D-pro, what do you all think?

So I decided to finally put my two L78's (4 ohm) to use on my new blazer rs. The thing is that im using a shitty "2500 watt" power acoustik amp. What amp should I get? Ported box. Under $300 because it's pretty rough out there these times around. I also have the lc2i installed... if that makes a difference. Thanks!

Anyone have experience with that amp? Thinking about running 4 skar 6.5 midbass off this amp 1 in each door?

Ok so I'm staring to piece together and figure out what I need for my electrical pieces.. I will have a second battery in the rear. running two amps. Sub amp -T1500-1bdCP Front Stage amp is undecided at the moment. I have 1/0 Gauge OFC running to the back. probably ~15ft run. My plan is. Battery up front + (in line fuse)>>>>> (inline fuse) Battery Rear Positive + Ground up front will be left alone. Ground in the rear will be placed in the factory installed Ground fused to the body in the trunk. For the amps.... Running from rear battery ----- Short zero gauge OFC to a fused distribution block >>>>From the fused …

I drive a 2003 Saturn Ion with a stock alternator 105Amps, I dont compete just daily driving and live in Dallas so my trips can be an hour or more(but not everytime I leave the house). Im planning on doing some electrical upgrades to the vehicle and just dont know how to go about it, so my SSA family help me out. I have a Sundown SAZ-200oD (200A), SAX-125.2 (60A) and a four channel in he future probably SAX100.4(90A), so I wanna plan these upgrades around all the three amps(around 350A, give or take a little) and not what I currently have. Question #1: Do I need an High Output alternator or not, if so I have found a 200Amp one for my car and I will get that? Question #2: …

I'm running 2 Sundown Audio sa15s and my amp has quit on me. I can get a sundown saz 1500 and a RF Power T1500-1bdcp for the same price. Which one would you guys recommend??

so my friend picked up a mechman 220 for his dodge avenger 2012. with his factory alternator he had some decent dimming of lights and gauges even when cruising down the road. with his mechman he says his voltage will drop to 11.2V on the alternator stud and his car has shut off and restarted itself during idle with the mechman but never with his factory alt. he used an amp meter to find out he has about 65A at idle coming from the alt under load. first off how accurate is that measurement? secondly what steps should one take to isolate the alternator vs a ground or other issue in the system? his system power is about 2KW with a JL 5 channel powering rainbow door compon…

Tested voltage drop with most accessories off last night. At idle the car rests at 13.9x, With a variety of music and an Iasca test disc, at the loudest volume i can play the factory stereo at while still sounding decent, the lowest i got it to drop was 12.69, it was mostly between 12.7xx and 12.9 on HARD hits. Electrical system is stock, battery, alt, etc, all stock, no cap/ 2nd battery, extra 0wag ground under hood to battery, extra 4awg ground running to rear of the car where it joins the 1/0 that goes into my amp. Amp is an MTX 81000d running @ 2ohms, Rated 1krms @ 12.5 volts, most people get between 12xx and 14xx on their birth sheets at that voltage. I was just surp…

I recently installed a Pioneer P4300DVD doubled-in deck in my truck and just have a few questions about some settings. 1. What should my sub frequency be set at on the deck (it goes up to like 120hz I think)? 2. What should my HPF be set at on the deck? 3. Any tips on tuning the Custom Equalizer settings? Just some info on my system I will try to give the whole run down in case its needed. Pioneer P4300DVD deck Boston S85 5x7 speakers front and rear ^Kicker ZX200.4 SSA XCON 15 ^Audioque 2200D Stock Alternator No Extra Batteries

I will be getting a new car soon. I honestly dont want to use my current 4 gauge as it limits me to <1300rms I want to go straight to zero gauge so I dont have to worry about the wire in the future. I wanted to go for Kicker, but wire is wire and Knukonceptz seems to have a good reputation here and seems to be cheaper. I also heard about Welding Supplies, they seem like another good option. However, I recently read a thread were one of the wires (dont know if Knukonceptz or Welding) was made of CCA (copper covered aluminum I believe). All I remember was that CCA wire should be avoided. So now I ask, which one is the one to go for? I really cant make a mistake since I'l…

I think my current wire from the alt is 8 gauge. It goes into a solenoid or something before the wire goes to the battery. I can't upgrade the wiring to 1/0 straight from the alternator to battery. Since my alternator is placed in the middle side of the engine. I tried getting to it but is impossible. Gotta pull the engine up or take most of the parts off it. So frustrating. Would it matter much about the alternator to batt wire size? Since the output on the alt isn't switched I'm just running stock alt.

Vehicle: 2003 Chevy Tahoe 5.3L Stock alt size is 130 I believe. What size alt would you guys recommend to successfully push my Fi BTL N2 with the AQ2200D? Is a HO alt even necessary for the system?

I know a guy that has one of these amps that I can get for about 100 bones. I am more than sure its worth it. I just wondered if anyone here ran it and how good of an amp they are?

I current have a 250a DB Electrical alt installed with a Deka 9a78DT as my front battery running 1500 watts. At idle I drop to around 13.9 and when cruising I stay right at 14.5 volts. Now I want to run 4300 in the near future and need to know how many batteries and what batteries would be best. I'm kinda thinking three Deka 9a31's but am open to other things and am willing to buy used. I want to try and stay around 600 for all of them so gimme an idea for how many and what I should get.

yeah, i know, not the best amp by far, but my cousin's truck go broken into, and his audison srx3 will be out of the picture for a little while. we have a powerbass asa 400.4 sitting around, and want to use it until we can get a new audison. now, for the big question... does anyone know if the powerbass in tri-mode capable/stable? we want to use channels 1 and 2 for the comps, and bridge 3 and 4 for a sub. a 15" dayton titanic mk III will replace the 12" type r that was in there, although a type r will be back again... probably. full system rundown 2000 chevy s10 ext cab clarion dxz775usb hu audison srx3... now gone diamond d6 comps in the doors, textile tweets, +3 to…

I found this amp while searching for a good cheap amp. I know that if I spend the extra ($400) I can get a good amp, but this one sure looks like a RF T1000.1. Even if it isn't, does this look like an amp that could give that 1700 watts at 1 ohm? http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_8403_K...KX1-3000D.html#

Ive been looking at some car audio companies that make very good quality gear. Ive noticed that the majority of them have caps for sale. Now, you think from reading all this stuff about them, they are bad ect ect that these high end companies wouldnt sell them. But there must be a reason. Just about every amp out there is filled with them. So why not add another ? Is a 1 farad cap better than 2 0.5 farad caps ? What about cap banks, 30, 40 farads ? Im, not about to go out and buy one I didnt bother posting this on ca.com because i know everyone will say caps are junk blah blah blah. Ive read that they can be helpful if your electrical system is up to par ( mine is )

Are these amps underrated? Anybody have a birth sheet or a estimate of what the 750.1 will really do @2ohms?

I don't know if this is old news or not but i just stumbled across this so it might be helpful for others. I'm assuming this will work with all other car dvd players that are wired to where you must be in park and have the hand brake applied twice before video will appear. OK, this is what it can do- The purpose of the safety feature is to not show video while in drive.... however, a glitch in my Alpine allows to show video while i'm driving and only shuts it off when the brake is pressed so for road trips, , you need not a video bypass. What i did- While i was in a stopped position, you could even consider just starting the car a stopped position because you only need t…

I currently have a jvc HU and it only has one rca. i have both rca cables wired to my 2 channel amp to my current subs, I want to install a second amp for my front door speakers. I just ordered new subs and a amp from IA. So it will be two death row's running on a 20.1 and a power acoustik 2 channel amp for my doors. So how would I do this or do I need a new head unit?

So I inherited this situation but I'm too deep now to give up. From what I understand, there was one `1200 watt audio pipe hooked up in dudes car. He blew that one. Then he put 2 more in and blew both of them immediately I believe. Seems like a short somewhere in his vehicle to me but I'm no expert. So I went through and tested all the transistors and found multiple output mosfetts to be blown on all 3 amps. I pieced enough "good" irf640 mosfetts together to hopefully make a working unit but I have a short someoene because It bounces bavck from protesct to power. Can anyone help me with this?I have more hours in troubleshooting these things than I care to admit. …