Amplifiers / Head Units / Processors / Electrical

Just wondering what people are pushing with audiopipe amps?

my setup will be a 3way setup for my front stage consisting of; 8"(undecided) in doors 4" CDT gold 2way set in kicks 12" iCONs in trunk HU is kenwood DDX7017 (somethin like that) amps will all be kicker(undecided on models) so my question is; is the KX3 3-way active crossover from kicker a good option? if not what would be better? im debating on also putting a set of some 6.5 midbass drivers in the panel next to my door for a bit of rear fill, i know its not most peoples taste, but my 3way setup is worrying me about missing some fill. if i decided to use those rears would u just use the 2way crossover as well as the 3way for the front? is there anything im missing? thank…

well i was just taking the photo's off of my phone tonight and found these that i had in there. if anyone cares here they are BAMF 5500

Got about 12-15 feet of 2/0 run from battery to trunk, going to be running DSC1500.1D @ 1 ohm 1500 rms and DSC280 @ 4 ohms 160 rms. What size fuse should I put next to the batt? Was thinking 250 amp, would that do it? Thanks. If it matters, stock alt 80 amp, Yellow Top 55 ah, Big 3 done in 2 gauge welding cable.

$450 amp budget, which way would you go? I could stretch to $500 w/shipping but that's it for now Im running (2) digital designs 2512c and they are laughing at my (2) brz1200 @1ohm ea 3 yellow top optima, 220amp alt I'm not a SQ critic so it doesn't have to be Rockford, ect. I want power over quality since I'm only spending so much this time around Thanks and any input is appreciated

well i have everything hookedup and when my amp wont turn on, my remote wire power grounds, all connected to my back battery, as of now i got my stinger voltmeter working but thats it, it only works when the power and the remote wire are hooked together, and then the remote wire to the amp, thats only when it turns on but if i take out my voltmeter amp doesnt turn on, anyone know how to solve my problem dont have have to keep removing my remote wire, to have to turn off my amp and turn it back on as well also my aq gets hot pretty much imo. any help will be nice, i kow its kinda of a mess if you guys want me to explain it better i will

looking at replacing my two MA Audio HK802sx Amps for two hcca 2500's possibly...... http://www.hifisoundconnection.com/Shop/Co...sid/0/SFV/30046 I know this company has been taken over by directed elelctronics...and all the orion products arent what they used to be but....ive installed several of there new Cobalt series amps and speakers in customers vehicles and they all seem to perform very very well for the price.....so i was hoping someone had some insight on there new hcca 2500 model...... The amps i have now work great, but i only had one amp at first......then i upgraded from 8 memphis 12's to 4 Fi SSD 15's w/ bp power option and copper coils Dual 1 ohm and added …

I have a lil over 700$ to spend on an amp for my 18" BTL I was thinking on buying a Rockford Fosgate T20001bd for a lil over 700$ And money is kinda tight with college coming up and bills and such.. Or just wait and save up a little more cash and get the Sundown 3000D Its really just a ground pounder and im not really concerned about numbers on the mic.. My question is, Is that Rockford a good amp to push my BTL? I just know how Sundown is all good talk and wonderful customer service..

Greetings all, it's certainly been a while. Right now I'm leaning towards using a Kicker Comp RT (12") in my Tundra CrewMax (most likely in the box by Kicker). It's rated at 800 RMS (1600 Peak) and I am looking (as most of us are) for a quality, budget amp to power this. Any recommendations? I've come across Planet Audio, Power Acoustik, and a few other brands that seem reasonably priced. Also, any experience with this sub or setup? Many thanks.

I am planning my first real DIY build and have some questions regarding the wiring... Before I ask, here is my planned setup: Power/Wiring -Stock Battery -Stock Alternator -Big 3 upgrade to all 1/0 gauge wires -300A Fuse -12 gauge speaker wires for the subs Sub/Amp -Fi SSD 15" wired at 1ohm -Audioque AQ1200D (1200rms@1ohm) (40A x3 fuses, 120A total) (4 gauge connectors) 1) Will doing the big 3 upgrade be sufficient enough for my battery and alternator for this system? If not, what else should I look in to? 2) Should I hook up the amp w/ 4 gauge wiring or use 1/0? I would prefer to use 1/0 but the connectors are 4, is there a solution to this? Is 4 gauge sufficient for th…

hey guys i am going to be buying an SI d2 in a few weeks and i need a more powerful amp and i only have about 250 i found a hifonics brutus 1500 watt amp on ebay for 225 buy now is it worth it or should i get a rocksford fosgate power 1001bd for 250 thanks

I don't know if this is old news or not but i just stumbled across this so it might be helpful for others. I'm assuming this will work with all other car dvd players that are wired to where you must be in park and have the hand brake applied twice before video will appear. OK, this is what it can do- The purpose of the safety feature is to not show video while in drive.... however, a glitch in my Alpine allows to show video while i'm driving and only shuts it off when the brake is pressed so for road trips, , you need not a video bypass. What i did- While i was in a stopped position, you could even consider just starting the car a stopped position because you only need t…

hi, i have 2 questions: one how can a person determine how many and which kind of battery's a person needs ( like CCA Ah, etc) for around 2.5k rms and also do you have to fuse a ground run?

So I have been browsing around for some decent amps to push 4 18" BTL's and cant make up my mind. Does anyone know if the Soundstream XXX-6500D amp is any good???

I recently purchased the saz 1500D and last night as i was driving, my sub stopped playing and i heard a loud thud type sound right before it quit working. I checked the amp and the fuse were all blown. I replaced them with more and turned it back on. it took a second but my lights started to dim in my car then the fuses popped still. Everything being powered by the same power line is fine there is nothing wrong with anything else. What do you think the problem is. I believe its a factory problem

as i was doing the big 3, i was looking for the engine ground, but it is in a very difficult place to work on, ill have to take a hose, some spark plugs, and other wiring to be able to connect the wire, is there any alternative to the factory engine block i have a 2000 silverado 4.3L

Hey guys, I've got 0 gauge wire running the length of my vehicle, but my amp accepts up to 4. I slapped on some reducers and realized they were too close for comfort, so I heat shrink tubed each post. Although they're on there very solidly, they're still sketching me out a bit. What do you guys think? Should I go for some distribution blocks or something instead? Been a pain in the rear. Running ~1500w Pics:

I was doing some thinking.. Taken from http://www.rockfordfosgate.com/rftech/wire_calculator.asp quote: Because music is dynamic in nature, it will be easier for the amplifier to reproduce than test tones. Our testing has shown that it is typical for an amplifier to consume on average roughly 50% of its maximum input current on such. If it is consuming 50% of its max input current on average, isn't it correct to say that when playing music, the amp might have peak outputs of up to 3000Wrms, but on average, might only give out 1500Wrms (over the length of an entire song).. so from that theory, isn't a 3000Watt amplifier better suited to play a 1500Wrms sub?? thoughts?

what kind of electrical is need to power a saz-3500? does anyone have experience with db-electrical.com? i saw a HO alternator on their site for $259

so do caps actually work or what?

well my friend bought subs, an amp, and a box from bestbuy. so i told him to let me install it but he said his neighboor has alot of experience (which wasnt true). so any way the guy hooked it all up. he did a nice job on the electrical wiring but when wiring subs to the amp he ran the wires in series which presented an 8ohm load and the amp isnt made for 8 ohms. he was supposed to run them in parallel. im not sure y it worked but it did. then my friend said the amp kept shutin off after a few minutes of play, but then would turn back on in about 7 seconds. but my friend kept on bumpin for like an hour. then i went over there today and rewired the subs in parellel and we …

I'm looking to buy around 50 ft of 1/0 awg power and 25 ft of 1/0 awg ground wire. Whats every ones thoughts on knukonceptz? It was introduced to me by a local friend and I'd like to know what you guys think of it.....

Ok so I was on my way home from work and my sub stopped hitting so I pulled over immediately got out and looked to see what was wrong. My amp was in protection so I made sure my headunit was completely off and turn my car off and back on again. I went back and checked and the amp wasnt it protection but there was no power light either. I popped the hood and looked at the fuse for my power wire and it was blown. So I changed out that one with a spare one i had. As soon as I turned the car again the inline fuse blew again. Can someone help me? What is making it do this? My gain was set with DMM and I have been driving it for two weeks with no issues. Any help would be aweso…

well, I just replaced the alpine 7949 I bought I now have sony cdx-c90 coming... don't think I can do much better than this

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