Amplifiers / Head Units / Processors / Electrical

I want to know in very good detail, on what the advantage is in the difference from a 3v pre--out to a 5v pre-out?? i'm just curious.

I'm running 2 Sundown Audio sa15s and my amp has quit on me. I can get a sundown saz 1500 and a RF Power T1500-1bdcp for the same price. Which one would you guys recommend??

im lookin into buyin an 15" or 18" FI BL subwoofer and ive been intrested in these 2 amps my question is what amp would be a better choice for the sub?? thanks

I need 5 ANL fuse holders that supports 1/0 wire. The cheaper the better, any ideas?

I haven't built a system since 2009. I had 2 Fi BTL 15's in a pound that sound box, powered by a SAZ 3000D. Well, my kid is becoming a bass head and is wanting to build a system in his car. I suggested him helping me build one in my car first so that he can learn more about it and see what he really wants before spending his money. I'm planning on putting an SSA ICON 10 with an SAE 1000D or maybe a 1500D , all in the trunk of my 2017 Mustang GT. Im going more for sound quality than SPL this time around. My car came with the sync and navigation package. I want to keep my dashboard stock but obviously don't have any RCA outs on the stock navigation/radio unit. It was sugge…

Memphis 1000.1 or a JL 1000.1 which is a better amp i was going with the JL

I have been wanting to put a mac mini in my car for a while now but still have a few questions. First off, would I need a head unit or could I somehow just use a amp and a sound processor? If so how would this be done? Second what are some good 10" touch screen monitors that will work well with a mac mini?

Alright, so I've done some searching and can't find any posts similar to what I'm dealing with. The closest I can find on google is something referring to the battery current sensor. Aparrently its only on 2005+ Tahoes though, but it senses draw and adjusts alternator charging output accordingly. Mine is a 2000, and when I went through my Big 3, I saw no such sensor as expected. The issue I'm having is a lot more noticeable now that I have a Stinger volt gauge in the dash (Installed same time as new HO Alt, 9/11/19) When I start up, I'm at around 14-14.3v.. after warmed up, 13.9v is consistent. Now... I've notice multiple times that when I am coming to a stop, or slo…

I was wondering if anybody used these X2 Power Batteries, supposedly they are rebranded North Stars made for Batteries Plus. Looking at electrical upgrades and an underhood battery is my first step, I can grab these batteries locally plus they come with a great warranty. Looking for any input, thanks fellas.

What do you guys think of this amp? I saw a topic over at SMD and it didn't seem bad at all. I can get it for a REALLY cheap price, like, if it puts out even 3000 watts rms, then it is still worth it. It doesn't look too bad imo. And, compared to the Crunch GP3000D-pro, what do you all think?

Okay I lack proper knowledge in many spectrums of electrical. My question here is hypothetical but, if I had a battery bank of lets say 6 Kinetic 2400's all connected onto a buss bar. Lets say I have 4 alts. 2 put out 240 amps at idle, 1 puts out 250, and another 275. All 4 alts are connected to the buss bars by 1/0 cable. Would this cause issues with the reliability of the batteries or the alts? I just wonder is mis matched alts make a difference. J

Ok so I was on my way home from work and my sub stopped hitting so I pulled over immediately got out and looked to see what was wrong. My amp was in protection so I made sure my headunit was completely off and turn my car off and back on again. I went back and checked and the amp wasnt it protection but there was no power light either. I popped the hood and looked at the fuse for my power wire and it was blown. So I changed out that one with a spare one i had. As soon as I turned the car again the inline fuse blew again. Can someone help me? What is making it do this? My gain was set with DMM and I have been driving it for two weeks with no issues. Any help would be aweso…

I'm currently helping a friend purchase the rest of his setup for his Durango. He bought my 12" Cerwin-Vega! Vmax D2 Driver. It is in a 2.5cu ft. box (ported). Memphis Ampl That is the amp he is going to buy. 500RMS at 1 ohm. Class D Question is: Run 4 gauge or 2 gauge? And he has a stock deck, so I will need a LOC, where is a good place to purchase them, and i would need a write up on how to wire one in, along with a source for the remote. Final: Woofersetc is a good site to order from right? I've known quite a few people that have ordered from there without problems

so my friend buys this amp and takes it to our local shop, and is told it's a memphis that'll do 1000watts (don't know if thats rms or peak) but anyways this amp is freakin huge...gotta be like 2 feet x 9" x 2.5", and weighs like 20-30lbs....i dont have any pics of it but it has a shiny brushed finish, and no logos, or numbers on it..the top of it has a bunch of little slits that go all the way across it....but no logos...also the terminals look like 2 amps put together...2 channels on each side, 1 power, ground and rem on each side, and a filter on each side.....and its not 2 amps put together, i looked all over it and it's just 1 big amp......anybody know anything about…

Lately my 1000/1 amp has been cutting out while playing loud music. right after it cuts out it starts back up in a few seconds. I looked at the amp while it shuts down and its giving the thermal protect light. for the last week it has been cutting off more and more often. Finally last night it bumped the volume up and it shut down and did not turn back on. I checked out my main power fuse from the front battery and it was blown? I have a 05 4-runner 1000/1 v1 powering a 13w7 wired @3 ohm stock head unit/speakers Big 3 stock alt no extra batteries 4 gauge power wire Had a extra optima in the trunk but took it out thinking the amp didn't need it since the 1000/1 has the vo…

audiocontrol DQXS

I would like some input on 5 channel amps from - Polk Audio PA1100.5 PowerBass ASA 1100.5x Infinity KAPPA FIVE Kicker 08ZX700.5 Hifonics ZXi 8010 US AMPS AX 5600 Budget $300.00 to $400.00 My Alpine PDX-5 is clean sounding, just lacking in the thump dept. I sold my old Alpine F353 as it was getting old and I wanted more thump. My system is Alpine 9813 HU, Alpine PDX-5 amp, Polk DB 6.75 components,Polk DB coaxails 4x6 rears, 2-10" Polk MOMO subs @ 2ohm, in a down firing box in a 98 GMC ext cab truck. 120 amp alternator, large conventional battery, 1frad cap, 8 ga power wire.

I am looking for some amp meters and an oscope. id like to get your guys's opinions as to what brands and models work well. id love to have flukes but the cost is just to high for right now. i was looking into those pocket oscopes but id like to be able to have a comparative input option so i can pull from 2 sources at a time. anyone know if they make such a module?

i have a 350 A anl fuse less than a foot from my battery. i have noticed in alot of build logs peole have them alot closer to their subs. did i do something wrong or do they have 2 fuses?? Thank you Matt Cusack

I was doing some thinking.. Taken from http://www.rockfordfosgate.com/rftech/wire_calculator.asp quote: Because music is dynamic in nature, it will be easier for the amplifier to reproduce than test tones. Our testing has shown that it is typical for an amplifier to consume on average roughly 50% of its maximum input current on such. If it is consuming 50% of its max input current on average, isn't it correct to say that when playing music, the amp might have peak outputs of up to 3000Wrms, but on average, might only give out 1500Wrms (over the length of an entire song).. so from that theory, isn't a 3000Watt amplifier better suited to play a 1500Wrms sub?? thoughts?

Like the title says im trying to wire up my components. They are Infinity Perfect 6.1, and im trying to use a kicker kx 250.2 amp. I know I have to bridge the amp to get 4 ohms but every time I wire it up the amp shuts off at high volume for a few sec ds and then tries to kick back on. Some info: 0ga run from the battery to a distribution block From distribution block 4ga to Hifonics 1208 Brutis, 8ga to Kicker kx 250.2 Same size wire for ground to another distribution block and 0ga to frame 200amp alt. with big 3 done SO my question how do I wire this up so I know im doing it right, and what could be making the amp shut off?

I thought this might make a worth while thread for anyone getting ready to buy wire/cable and wants to shop around. This isn't meant to do any bashing, it's just to let people know what they can expect when ordering some wire. If you care to add to the comparison, please have at least two varieties compared(don't just post a pic of some wire). List the Manufacturer, Size, and location of purchase. From left to right... 1. Royal/Excelene 1/0 weldingsupply.com 2. ToughFlex 2/0 weldingsupply.com 3. SHCA 1/0 soundsolutionsaudio.com

I am torn here an what amp(s) to power my 2 SP4 18's. I am looking to run RMS to them for a strong daily setup. If I ever do compete would be strictly for fun once. My thoughts are either.... DD M4a @ 1ohm........used 2 DD M3a's @ .5 ohm each........used Crescendo BC5500 @ 1ohm..........new DC 5.0k @ 1ohm...........used Sundown 4500 ( a little expensive IMO).........used 2 Sundown 2500's @ .5 ohm each........used Electrical should support whichever setup....Mechman 270, 2 Redtops under the hood and 2 XS d3400's in the rear with multiple runs of 1/0 gauge to rear. Front stage will get a Crescendo PDX 6.5, 8in and FT1 in each door ran of a Alpine PDX 4.150. I am leaning hea…

Looking into running a stinger SPP1200 up under the hood and a SPP2150 in the rear. Are these batteries reliable and strong enough to support 3000 - 3500rms on stock electrical with big3 and 130amp alt. And how do these compare to the others like Powermaster Kinetik etc. Any and all info would be greatly appreciated thanks.