Amplifiers / Head Units / Processors / Electrical

I HAVE A JVC KW-AVX830. The usb port is a cord that comes from the back of the HU and it it hard wired to it. I have not had the thing a year yet. It was working fine everyday. Until yesterday. I plugged my phone.in and nothing. Tried my thumb drive too. Same thing. I'm pretty sure nothing has changed.as far as the set up goes. Pulled out the HU today and wiggled the wire around a bit and still, nothing. Kinda P.O. about.it. I just got hold of a bunch of supposedly high bass song for.my thumb drive. Any thoughts ?

im planning a large build right now and was thinking if my alternator only puts out 250 or so amps and my wire is rated at 300amps is multiple runs really needed? my plan is one DC or equal 270 amp alt( doubt i can find a dual alt for this car). 2 runs + and two runs - from the starting battery to my battery bank of 9 batteries running approx 10k watts.

hey guys, i have been thinking. right now im stuck on which amps to use on these solo x's. its between 2 kicker kx 1200.1's (i can get some decent deals on) or i just found the soundstream rubicon series 1600 watts amp (id get 2, 1 for each sub) there rated 40Ax4 which is 160A for $220 new with warrenty. iv been doing research and they do right at rated power. so what do u think. im stuck here HELP!!!! if anyone knows of some other good rated power amps (around 450 for 1 or 225 for 1(id buy 2) let me know. ps, im ordering my 220 amp alt. here soon and 2 optima yellow tops so power is no issue here. here is a link to the soundstream http://www.amazon.com/Soundstream-RUB1-…

I was hoping someone could help me out trying to figure out where to get this part other then woofersetc . (NAKAMICHI RCA 3PIN CONNECTOR) They charge $50 for a $2.00 plug in . Is this something that nakamichi head units use only? I have never seen the rca from the back of a car head unit like this . I bought my unit cd400 a pretty long time ago and can't figure out why the third one for the AUx was not included in the box or the place i had it installed (which is now out of business) lost it .Now i found woofersetc selling one for 50 , pretty crappy since the rca on the nak units are junk . This units is rated at 4volts , No way does it have that much . I tried a few pl…

If I have one battery, is a good or bad idea to run the negative cable from the amp to the battery? Did the chasis have more resistance than, let say, 14ft of 4 gauge cable? I'm asking that because I read that grounding the amplifier at the battery minimize voltage drop, don't know if that is true.

Buddy has a 2006 fusion. He put a yellow top in and he said it kept tripping the c/b? Relay says the dealer told him that the battery was too much for his engine electrical. ( I haven't a clue on what Ford does with their junk). Now he has the original battery back and no problems. Any insight? Btw they did say had he had the 6 cylinder he would have been fine.

Only thing i can think of is shaving them down.. Then i saw another thread were it was lots of + runs and only 1 - run , which seems pointless if the power has to flow in and out.

Sup guys quick question, What do you think would be the best amp to accommodate a sundown audio sa8. The sub would be in a ported enclosure around .8 cubic ft tuned about 31-32 hz. I want use for daily driver not spl. I know it's rated at 400rms but do you guys think it can handle more? For amps I like rf kicker jl I've owned all three, never had problems. It's just very hard to choose the correct amp. Usually I have the same brand for both sub and aml but sundown doesn't have a amp around 400rms (at least not in my price range) I mean I wouldn't wanna spend the extra dollars for something like sae1000. Sure there will be headroom but I don't plan on upgrading this is g…

Friend wants to know and idk the answer lol. He wants a kinetik battery and found one on craigslist. Kinetik 2000 for $130. We are debating whether he should buy it or not. I guess the thing to check is it's voltage? Have you guys experienced buying used batteries?

Alright, so i own a PG Ti. 500.4 and my speakers will randomly seem to cut in and out. All of a sudden only 1 speaker in my car will be working, and at other times all 4 will work. Now i went back and checked my amp, it seems that the aux inputs are the problem. When i wiggle them around a bit, unplug them and plug them back in they all work. They will work for like a week and then start cutting out again. I actually ended up taking the cover off and looking at the solder points on the amp where the inputs are and they seem to be fine. Should i just like... tape the wires in place so that they dont move? Idk what else to do.

for 4 sa8's d4's so i csn run 2 ohm or .5ohm nominal..... ive got a dc 270xp alt and 2 discovery dt12-4000 agm g31 batterys. was thinking a saz2500 @ .5 nominal

I need some info on these things..I've ALWAYS added an after market head unit to all my vehicles in the past. I've always though that is the best way if you want a good system. Well, I have the chance to uby an 08 Cadillac cts. Clean as hell and would be by far the nicest vehicle I've ever owned...but I'm a bass head. So questions would be.. If a clean sounding, hard hitting system is my goal will the LOC be the wrong purchase? Maybe I have the wrong idea about these things? If an after market setup was available I wouldn't even be typing this but as far as I can tell it doesn't exist. Appreciate anything you guys can add to this, its killing me that not being able to pu…

As the title states im looking for a new digital multimeter for a few reasons. I was looking on amazon and i see they have them ranging anywhere from $5 all the way to $200. I dont really know the difference one would have over another but im willing to spend anywhere from $10-$25 as its just for a few purposes here and there. If anyone has any options on a good decent DMM feel free to post them here as it may also help people in the future to decide which ones to get. Thanks in advance

Hi, im sorta new to this stuff and i had several questions that i hoped can be answered. 1. Does an amp put out as much watts(rms) as they say they do? Does this also apply to cheaper amps? 2. When do i need to run a capicitor? 3. Can subs take more power than recommended by the manufacturer? 4. If i listen to mainly rock/metal what type of box should i use? I'd like it to be loud but also feel like some child is kicking the back of my seat. Any links would be helpful, thank you.

Hey guys, I'm just looking for some help or advice on what to do with my old amplifier. It's a RF punch series P500-2 (I believe the 2008 model? --Silver metal plates cover it), I recently had a local audio store run my wires through my new car and my intentions were to hook up that amplifier. But before they install any amp they run some kind of test on it to make sure it works, at least so he told me, and he said the amp was broken, with no further comments about it. That didn't seem right to me, although it may very well be broken, but I questioned it because I had it installed in my old vehicle (GMC Jimmy) and when I sold the Jimmy it worked just fine. So I'm thinking…

I have a 160amp alt, SHURiKEN SK-BT60 (Cranking Amp 1500, Amp Hours 60) under the hood and I want to run a saz1500 at .5ohm with 2 more 300 watt amps and have a stable voltage around 12+. Would 1 sk-bt20(20 AH, 850 Cranking Amp) be enough, what are your recommendations or thoughts? also 2 sk-bt20s would be the same price as 1 sk-bt35 (35 AH, 950 Cranking Amp)

I got an audio pipe 1300 amp. Connected it up and it didn't work. I am now gonna try and return it.

Ok. Got a brand new Audiopipe aqx-1800d (NOT the popular AP series. The new "better" ones.) It's in a less than optimal install which consists of 4-gauge wire that's only fused for 80 amps and just an upgraded starting battery. I set the gains pretty low and it was just fine. No voltage drop or anything. Then it sat in the car overnight exposed to the elements (read: heat) and all kinds of crazy shit happened. It kinda falls asleep at low volume, and by that I mean it cuts off completely no protect light. If I play it loud and it heats up it cuts off then too, with no protect light then either. It seems like it comes back on when it cools off but it just cut off again an…

Alright so i have a buddy that wants to use this amp to power some front door speakers, does anyone ahve any specs or experience with this amp? I cant seem to find anything about it

How's it going guys, I'm looking into a little upgrade on my door speakers and I really need some help. Currently, I run Orion XTRs off of head unit power (herp derp). Obviously they don't get loud as they are not amplified, but I have a feeling that if amplified, they will sound like complete shit when cranked. I'd like to run something a bit more capable, but I just don't quite understand how it all works. Here's what I'm considering going with: 4 Selenium 6W4Ps 4 Crescendo SuperTweets First question: Will this be enough speakers to cover all frequencies produced in music? I've got my BTL covering the lower end, but am I missing a section of frequencies that would be lo…

okay im running my subs at 2ohms but my amp isnt 2ohm stable, its a crunch 1100wat i kno someone selling a sony 1000watt 2ohm stable amp, is it worth it? he's selling for 35 bucks, (he needs cash quick) but is it worth it?

so i was on my way home from my local audio shop and boom. my amp stopped playing and started blowing smoke. i only had my stero on 25 out of 60.it was a mtx 1501d elite. so before i even got to my driveway, i turned around and went right back to the audio shop. befor i even opened the door, he started laughing because he knew what happened. haha he told me come back in 3 days with $75 and itll be as good as new. just thought id share my story with yall **R.I.P. mtx 1501d elite series**

hey guys, my names zack i drive an acura 3.0 cl i have a ported close to 4 cube box with 2 SSA ICONS 12's my amp im running now is a 1100 watt Crunch amp, but the problem is i guess there isnt enough power for them cause when i crank it the amp shuts off so now to the problem. i am a COMPLETE newby the the audio world and dont kno really what im shopping for, i know you can wire amps together, am i better off getting another amp and connecting the two? is it better to get one bigger amp? any help will be greatly apprieciated, critisms is alright too, i can handle it. thanks in advance guys, i'll post pictures of the new box soon

The xtant is a 3 channel amp 75x2 + 150x1 at 4ohms or 150x2 + 300x1 at 2 ohms. The system is going in a Ford 350 dully. The doors have 6x9's. My original thought was to run ID's 2ohm 6.5 comps in the front and doing nothing in the back doors. Then running a single IDQ 10" or 12". Also thought of running 2 sets of 4ohm comps or coaxials in front and back doors. I haven't decided on a HU yet. Mainly just looking for one more geared for SQ and one that will run an ipod. I have plenty of time on this build and am not commited to anything but the xtant 603x. Any thought's would be appreciated.

when you tune ur amp, do you have the bass level on the headunit at 0, or at the lowest it could be, i have it at -6, but was going to re-tune using it at 0 what u guys think thanks -Irvin